Oil question SAE 30 or 5w-20

[nswst8]

More and newer vehicle are using 5w-20 even alot of the 4 cylinder vehicle.

What are your opinions about switching to a 5w-20 oil in the 3rd gen?

Mobile recommends Extended performance 5w-30 synthetic (15,000 mile oil changes)

[zenapup]

Just use 5W30 like the manual says to, best option in my opinion

[Rendon LX-i]

You wipe out your bearings if you do. Newer vehicles have tigher clearances which don't require heavy vicostiy oil .

[MessyHonda]

I use 10w-30 on my 3gee and on my 04 accord with the k24 it says to use 5w-20

[nswst8]

Yeah, answered my own question. I'm going to go with the Mobil one extended performance 5w-30

[Vanilla Sky]

I'd add an oil temp gauge if you're going with a lighter oil. If your temps start climbing, it's time to move back to a thicker oil.

Now, given your climate there, you should have absolutely no problem running a 5W30 oil. If you were in the desert, I'd be concerned. I tend to err on the side of a thicker oil, but we have a higher average temperature here, obviously. In my A series motors, I run 10W40, usually Pennzoil Platinum. Until you get into boutique oils, you really can't go wrong with PP or M1.

I would be wary about the extended oil changes. Some engines are harder on oil than others. Before going to a long interval like 15,000 miles, I'd want to have my oil tested every 5,000 or so miles to see how far you really can go on the oil. It might cost a bit now, but if you really can push out to 15,000 or 20,000 miles on oil, you're going to save in the long term, and because you know the engine can tolerate those intervals, you're not losing engine life, either.

[AccordB20A]

im trying my first batch of 5w30 right now in my new b20a. wonder how long before its all burnt/leaked

main reason for changing to it was its cheaper than 10w30 and i drive to work every day which is 1.5km down the road so the car never really warms up.

ill change it every 5000kms which is like 3100 miles as it gets a raping now and again.

[POS carb]

my theory on this 5-20 and 0-20 oil is that the manufacturers want better mpg so they can sell it easier and they don't care if the motor only lasts 50k (but I don't know much about lubricants) :b

[2oodoor]

I have Kendal full syn 5w20 in the b20 last oil change, it was marked down super cheap. It seeps out of the drain plug. Its better than dirty spent oil ehh?
I could tell a difference, ran great but I will change it at 2k miles because I think its not good for the cam & tappets, as well what Rendon said too.
The car wasn't driven this summer, no ac lol.

[stat1K]

most of the lower weights are for emissions. i know several manufacturers changed their recommendations for 5w20 and 0w20 after they started having tons of cat failures.

[Oldblueaccord]

I guess I gotta ask whats wrong with old 10w-40?


wp

[DBMaster]

I would try the 0W-30 if you currently run 5W-30 with no issues. Anything 0W right now is going to be synthetic. It will help provide quick start and fast warm up. At operating temp it will perform the same as a 10W-30 or 5W-30. Plus, you should see a couple of percentage points if increase in your fuel economy. The 5W-20 (or, 0W-20, for that matter) would probably be fine, too, but I haven't tried that and cannot speak with any authority.

[Vanilla Sky]

Yeah, the light oils are for easy start ups, fast warm ups, and for emissions. Once warm, the oil performs like a 30W.

[gfrg88]

Meh, I just use whatever meineke has on special..

[stat1K]

i used to be a strict user of 10w30 but have since just started going with 5w20 and 0w20 or whatever honda says to put in the car because i've noticed decreased performance in the fit using 5w20, haven't changed the oil in the element since i got it but i imagine i'll use a 5w20.

[DBMaster]

The oil weight recommendations in our owner's manuals are nearly useless now. API oil specifications have gone through many revisions since these cars were new. You can honestly run them on almost any weight of oil that will pump and not blow out the exhaust as "mosquito fog." The original spec on my LXi was 5W-30. I always ran 10W-30 because of my misconceptions about oil. Living in Texas that didn't end up hurting anything. Since I only use synthetic oil I would run the "lightest" weight of oil you can get away with. The current SN spec 0W-20 oils would probably be just fine.

If anyone here is a petroleum engineer or chemist feel free to correct me.

Geez! I miss my Accord.

[JohnBoy]

i run castrol platnum in my camaro with the royle purple filter but i still change it 5000 to 7000 mile. even though you can go 15 on the oil and 25 on the filter but why trust the label

[Shawn87AccordDx]

So for my 87 Accord, I could use a 5w-30? I was afraid to divert from what the owner's manual said. I have 158xxx on the car.

[gp02a0083]

I run 10w-30 in the winter and 10W-40 in the summer here in NJ. I've never had a problem using 10W-30 in any of the cars my family has owned. My father preferred using 10W-30 conventional, i use Shell Rotella being that they still put small amounts of Zinc in it last i checked. My father always suggested to steer clear of synthetic with any of the 3 hatches I have owned. Mainly this was a concern with the old seals as synthetic's detergents tends to swell and cause leaks with older vehicles. I thought i heard someone say something about a tri viscosity motor oil, i think it was synthetic but im not too sure or it could have been some new kinda blend that has additives to adjust the viscosity.

[derolph]

So for my 87 Accord, I could use a 5w-30? I was afraid to divert from what the owner's manual said. I have 158xxx on the car.I agree. You and I live in similar temperature climates. I see no reason to experiment with different viscosity oils. According to the manual, 10W-30 is also acceptable where the temperature usually does not drop below 20F.

[Shiftmeister]

I guess I gotta ask whats wrong with old 10w-40?


wp

Absolutely nothing, that would be my choice as well.

[derolph]

Absolutely nothing, that would be my choice as well.You know what the manual recommends. So, why would you choose 10w-40?

[gfrg88]

it also says not to modify anything...

[Dr_Snooz]

You know what the manual recommends. So, why would you choose 10w-40?

That's what the manual recommends for me.

[AccordB20A]

ive done 3000kms with the fully synthetic 5w30 in my B20A now and its still above the add on the dipstick. not bad!

[Shiftmeister]

You know what the manual recommends. So, why would you choose 10w-40?

Ermm, maybe because thats what the manuel recommends?

[Vanilla Sky]

If running synthetic oil causes leaks, then you have a really dirty engine. You're cleaning out the deposits that are keeping your engine from leaking. Now, imagine everywhere else gunk is. You don't want it in your engine, not even the gunk that keeps the oil in there.

[cygnus x-1]

Just for reference, the Helms manual for my 2g Prelude (A18A1 engine) specifies anywhere from 5W-20 up to 20W-50 depending on the climate. 10W-30 is the most universal so I would say use that. For really cold climates (Canada, etc.) use 5W-30, and for hot climates (Texas/Mexico, etc.) use 10W-40. I tried 20W-50 once and it's so thick it makes the engine crank slower when starting. It's really only good for racing engines that see high temperature abuse.


C|

[obdriver6]

I've always use 10w-40 synthetic since I got the car. Reasons: I live in vegas and car has a lot of miles.

[AccordEpicenter]

I've always use 10w-40 synthetic since I got the car. Reasons: I live in vegas and car has a lot of miles.

I dont see the need to go over 10w30 unless the engine is hammered or leaking it badly. My 200000 mile acura tl I still use 5w20 Mobil 1 and 5000-7000 mile changes. You will be fine using 5w30 or 10w30 in these cars unless they are really beat or leaking. However I did go to 20w50 in my old 3G to buy me time with a bottom end starting to make noise due to main bearing issues, but in the new motor forged turbo Im usually using 10w30.

[obdriver6]

I dont see the need to go over 10w30 unless the engine is hammered or leaking it badly. My 200000 mile acura tl I still use 5w20 Mobil 1 and 5000-7000 mile changes. You will be fine using 5w30 or 10w30 in these cars unless they are really beat or leaking. However I did go to 20w50 in my old 3G to buy me time with a bottom end starting to make noise due to main bearing issues, but in the new motor forged turbo Im usually using 10w30.

Well it does have a mysterious leak that have not found and it has a lot of miles (316K) so i rather not risk it with thiner oil.

[DaveE]

I would try the 0W-30 if you currently run 5W-30 with no problems. Anything 0W right now is going to be artificial. It will help offer launch and quick heated up. At managing temperature it will execute the same as a 10W-30 or 5W-30. Plus, you should see a number of amount factors if improve in your gas mileage. The 5W-20 (or, 0W-20, for that matter) would probably be excellent, too, but I haven't tried that and cannot talk with any power.


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[Shawn87AccordDx]

I'm thinking 5w-30 next time around here. I've noticed some unhappy sounds on cold starts as winter starts to set in around here that go away as oil gets pumped around and the car warms up. I'm not leaking or burning anything after about 1,500 miles, but its been almost 3 months so I'm going to change this month.


My blog: http://shawnseeley.com

[Oldblueaccord]

Mine did that around 150k. I changed out the oil pump out and it quit.

Wp

[Shawn87AccordDx]

Mine did that around 150k. I changed out the oil pump out and it quit.

Wp

How involved of a project is that?

[Oldblueaccord]

Its bolted to the block and run off the timing belt. You could get at it with out removing the lower pulley I THINK. Its behind the timing belt cover.

Wp

[2oodoor]

My view is the oil pumps seem pretty durable on these and just replacing the rubber gaskets takes care of those intermitant low pressures. The seals for it are very much like the oil filter adapter base gaskets(seal) and they get cracks from the brittleness of age.
Very easy to replace the pump or remove it to put in new seals. Hardest part is getting the lower t belt cover out of the way.