89 Lxi Idle Issues. Help!

[pacmannproductions]

So this past sunday I changed my distributor since I needed a new one. After I changed it, suddenly my idle started acting funny and going from 1100-1800 after warm up. I wondered if it had anything to do with my Distributor cap gasket. I took the old one off my old dizzy since I didnt get one with the whole new dizzy I ordered(lame), but when I took it off it was brittle and broke so I had to glue it till mine comes in the mail. So far I checked for vac leaks, bled the coolant, try tapping the IACV to see if it would change idle, and check the round plastic thing under the FITV and it is all the way down? What the hell is going on here! Has anyone else had this problem, and if so how did you fix it?

[2oodoor]

Did you put the dist timing back where it was before?
Try disconecting battery, also bleed the coolant at over 1500 rpm so it has a nice little stream, oh an do that after the themostat has opened.
If that dont do it the idle valve may need cleaning off the car.

[pacmannproductions]

yea, the dizzy timing is fine and dizzy works great, I figured maybe the gasket could of did that since I put on my old one that was broke in peices and I had to glue it together till I get my new one in the mail.
What do you mean by bleed the coolant after 1500 rpm? I did it how EricTheCarGuy(youtube) suggested which was open the bleeder with car off, fill radiatior till coolant comes out the bleeder, retighten it, then start the car with heater on till it reaches normal operating temp then top it off. Didn't really help but also my coolant fans come on when the car does(bought it like this), dont know if that will make a diff or not..

[nswst8]

It could be related to a number of different things. The old dizzy was so shot that the new one needs to be adjusted.

Is it trying to stall?

Do you have the correct distributor?

Did you notch the dizzy to the head before removal or are you adjusting with timing light (15 degrees BTC)?

1100-1800 rpm, is it surging from 1100 to 1800 repeatedly? That sound like a vacuum leak.

[ecogabriel]

Idle bouncing between 1100 and 1800 rpm sounds like a vacuum leak; mine did the same - brake booster broken when I bought it.
Check and double-check for vacuum leaks. It has to be somewhat important because a small leak would make the idle faster but not bouncy.

[pacmannproductions]

@nswst8 - Yes the old dizzy was super shot. You could tell it was the orig or just just super old. It's not trying to stall. It starts and runs great, it's just the surging between 1100-1800 when warmed up. Either that or it just stays at like 1100 idle. The dizzy is the same and was put in perfect. Yea it is doing the constant surging when I'm at a light or in neutral. Maybe it is a leak but I have to check again tho I checked 4 times already. Keep in mind what I said about the DISTRIBUTOR CAP GASKET too tho. It was off the old dizzy and was hard and brittle. It actually broke and had to be glued to put in the new one. Idk if that will affect it, but I have a new one coming in the mail in a few days

[pacmannproductions]

@ecogabriel - Brake booster broken? How can you tell that or what are some symptoms of a bad one

[ecogabriel]

brake pedal was hard to operate, I could feel the noise of air rushing in

[nswst8]

Idle air adjustment is needed. Disconnect the 2P connector at the IACV adjust the idle air screw 650-700 RPM. This will cause check engine light to come on just pull the #11 fuse for a minute. My idle air screw was nasty when I pulled it, which led to a thorough throttle body cleaning.

Being that the dizzy was toast some drastic idle adjustments may have been made that you will have to correct. The IACV will need to be removed and cleaned. A good throttle body cleaning will be needed as well.

Remember that this is a 20+ vehicle and alot of maintenance will probaly need to be addressed.

Do all the basic tune up maintenance and then go from there.

[pacmannproductions]

Idle air adjustment is needed. Disconnect the 2P connector at the IACV adjust the idle air screw 650-700 RPM. This will cause check engine light to come on just pull the #11 fuse for a minute. My idle air screw was nasty when I pulled it, which led to a thorough throttle body cleaning.

Being that the dizzy was toast some drastic idle adjustments may have been made that you will have to correct. The IACV will need to be removed and cleaned. A good throttle body cleaning will be needed as well.

Remember that this is a 20+ vehicle and alot of maintenance will probaly need to be addressed.

Do all the basic tune up maintenance and then go from there.

The 2p connector? By doing this, how would I adjust it to 600-750 if the idle is bouncing up and down? Won't it stall out? Should I reset my computer too? I did the basic maintenence stuff tho and just got this car last wknd. Changed dizzy, new cap and rotor, spark plugs, oil, filter, and wires are good. And this number #11 fuse for the CEL, is it in the box under the hood or in the car?

[pacmannproductions]

Idle air adjustment is needed. Disconnect the 2P connector at the IACV adjust the idle air screw 650-700 RPM. This will cause check engine light to come on just pull the #11 fuse for a minute. My idle air screw was nasty when I pulled it, which led to a thorough throttle body cleaning.

Being that the dizzy was toast some drastic idle adjustments may have been made that you will have to correct. The IACV will need to be removed and cleaned. A good throttle body cleaning will be needed as well.

Remember that this is a 20+ vehicle and alot of maintenance will probaly need to be addressed.

Do all the basic tune up maintenance and then go from there.

Also this Idle air screw you mention, your talking about just the screw that adjust my idle correct? Your talk about pulling your idle screw kinda threw me off a bit

[nswst8]

Correct, Idle screw is at the top of your Throttle body opening. It is a brass screw next to a red braided vac hose. Sometimes the rubber o-ring deterioates and some people use some type of goop to seal and set it.

You will have to remove the Idle screw to thoroughly clean it and the port it screws into.

#11 fuse is in the under the hood fuse box.

I would start by cleaning the throttle body and then the IACV. Check for vacuum leaks Then adjust the idle.

[Dr_Snooz]

The bouncing idle is a classic symptom of a vacuum leak. If it started immediately after your distributor swap, then check your install. Specifically, look at the vacuum advance diaphragm. Look for leaks and make sure the vac lines are installed properly.

The cap gasket will not make a difference.

[pacmannproductions]

The bouncing idle is a classic symptom of a vacuum leak. If it started immediately after your distributor swap, then check your install. Specifically, look at the vacuum advance diaphragm. Look for leaks and make sure the vac lines are installed properly.

The cap gasket will not make a difference.

It didn't start immediately after, I would say more so later that night. It starts and runs fine and did right after I installed it, and it sits in properly. I will say that I did try to start it when I put it on forgetting to put the coil wire back on, but it doesn't seem like it affected it.

[nswst8]

If in fact your idle does bounce, that is a sign of vacuum leak/s. Since you are in CA it has meet smog in the past.

I'm still at the conclusion that there are a number of maintenance issue that need to be addressed.

[pacmannproductions]

If in fact your idle does bounce, that is a sign of vacuum leak/s. Since you are in CA it has meet smog in the past.

I'm still at the conclusion that there are a number of maintenance issue that need to be addressed.

The cars already been smogged and taken care of so I'm good with that. I checked like a million times for leaks and found nothing, and I have the IACV off and cleaning right now. it's just weird it started after I changed and put on a new dizzy

[nswst8]

It is possible that the dizzy is bad. I believe that Autozone has the ability to test out the dizzy.

[pacmannproductions]

It is possible that the dizzy is bad. I believe that Autozone has the ability to test out the dizzy.

That would suck if the dizzy is bad when I just bought it. I just cleaned the IACV tho and no more bouncy idle. Now I just have to adjust the idle now tho. It's at 1100 steady and I cant get the damn idle screw loose haha. I think the person with the car before me deff adusted the shit out of it

[2oodoor]

the adjusting screw needs tweeking now probably since the new part makes the car run better at idle? It is trying to find correct speed but cant because it is so far out of the range of adjustment...

[nswst8]

That would suck if the dizzy is bad when I just bought it. I just cleaned the IACV tho and no more bouncy idle. Now I just have to adjust the idle now tho. It's at 1100 steady and I cant get the damn idle screw loose haha. I think the person with the car before me deff adusted the shit out of it

Okay, you are making progress. It seem that the adjusting has been sealed in place by some type of goop.

If you have a impact driver (not impact gun) you can try that. If not use a screw driver and a hammer to try and break loose the Idle adjusting screw. Do not whale on it, just tap while trying to turn the screw counter clockwise. Heat might help as well.

[pacmannproductions]

Okay, you are making progress. It seem that the adjusting has been sealed in place by some type of goop.

If you have a impact driver (not impact gun) you can try that. If not use a screw driver and a hammer to try and break loose the Idle adjusting screw. Do not whale on it, just tap while trying to turn the screw counter clockwise. Heat might help as well.


It actually started doing it again later tonight :-/. Being that it stopped most of the day after I cleaned the iacv, do you think mines juat done and needs to be replaced? This is annoying

[nswst8]

Well, as much as I hate to say it. Yes you are looking at 20 year plus part. but also a good cooling system cleaner might help. It all depends on how well the cooling system was cared for. Was the IACV real dirty or gunked up. Rusty water present or not?

[Dr_Snooz]

The bouncing idle (http://www.3geez.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1188575) has been covered (and solved) a million times over on this board. Stop chasing rabbits and fix either your vacuum leak or bleed your coolant properly.

[pacmannproductions]

Well, as much as I hate to say it. Yes you are looking at 20 year plus part. but also a good cooling system cleaner might help. It all depends on how well the cooling system was cared for. Was the IACV real dirty or gunked up. Rusty water present or not?

It actually wasnt gunked up but it was rusty and dirty. The holes on each side still have room to flow. Its not like my last car(integra), i took that off and the joles wete basically gunked shut. But yea, you think maybe replacing it would be best, cuz like I said it was working n idling good all day after i cleaned it till last night it started again.

[pacmannproductions]

The bouncing idle (http://www.3geez.com/forum/search.php?searchid=1188575) has been covered (and solved) a million times over on this board. Stop chasing rabbits and fix either your vacuum leak or bleed your coolant properly.

I've read its been solved a million times but I've tried all the ways solved and it hasn't worked, so I'm trying to get help here. I bled my coolant right and ive checked multiple times for vacuum leaks. I just dropped it off at the shop tho so hopefully they can help me out

[ecogabriel]

My car has a different type of IACV valve (it is an 86).
In your case, I would try blocking the IACV with a gasket (or plate) between the valve and the intake manifold.
If that cures your bouncy idle - without communication with the manifold the IACV basically would not work - you know the problem is there. It would be up to you to replace it later.

[Dr_Snooz]

I've read its been solved a million times but I've tried all the ways solved and it hasn't worked, so I'm trying to get help here. I bled my coolant right and ive checked multiple times for vacuum leaks. I just dropped it off at the shop tho so hopefully they can help me out

You sure you don't have a coolant leak? If the IACV looses coolant it will cause the same thing. If you don't put sealant on the idle adjustment screw, it will work it's way out and cause the same issue.

[pacmannproductions]

My car has a different type of IACV valve (it is an 86).
In your case, I would try blocking the IACV with a gasket (or plate) between the valve and the intake manifold.
If that cures your bouncy idle - without communication with the manifold the IACV basically would not work - you know the problem is there. It would be up to you to replace it later.

So yous saying cover the holes on the IACV and see if it will lost the bouncy idle, and if it does then thay is the problem?

[ecogabriel]

So yous saying cover the holes on the IACV and see if it will lost the bouncy idle, and if it does then thay is the problem?

That is what I think.

[pacmannproductions]

That is what I think.

So I figured out the surging idle problem. After asking scottykilmer(youtube honda wiz) about my distributor gasket, he mentioned that wouldnt cause the surge, but the cap would. So I said screw it, went to autozone(thank you warranties), exchanged my cap and rotor, and it was smooth after, I just gotta get my idle screw loose to adjust it. I guess even tho I bought the cap and rotor 2 wks ago it made no difference and probs just burned to shit when it was used on that other old distrib. Only thing, is now at random times, the car gives a shit start like my bad dizzy was doing when that gave out. I wonder if autozone sold me a bad one....

[nswst8]

Why did you buy the dizzy? Explain "shit start"? Reason I'm asking is you might have an unrelated problem.

[pacmannproductions]

Why did you buy the dizzy? Explain "shit start"? Reason I'm asking is you might have an unrelated problem.

I bought a dizzy because it was rusted as shit, wild jumpy tach and hesitation n jerking while driving Also hen you go to turn the key to start, it kinda goes like its starting and fade jumps out (if that makes sense at all to you), and my rpm gauge jumps over to like 7. I noticed it would do it if my radio was on, phone charger plugged in(anything sucking power) it's act as if it couldn't handle it, but when id unplug it would crank fine. That's one thing it was doing. Well it's doing that again at times, but I did fix that idle issue and got it steady.

[pacmannproductions]

Actually I was wrong! The new cap and rotor helped the idle for a lil bit today. I went to grab a drink at the gas station just now, and there goes the stupid surging idle again!! >:-(. This is really pissing me off now. I have a new IACV on the way in the mail. I hope that fixes this shit already man

[nswst8]

The book is indicating other idle controls, air intake and emission controls.

Have you cleaned the Throttle body? Or Seafoamed the engine?

The starting I would clean up the battery terminals and grounds and check the battery voltage.

[nswst8]

Other Idle controls are as follows in order.

1. Hoses and connections
2. Fast idle valve
3. Electronic air control valve (IACV is EACV)

[niles]

I am getting my IACV in the mail today, and I know it was the source of my surging idle.

I bypassed it a few months back by putting hard plasctic between the IACV and the throttle body. Only after that could I use my idle adjust screw to get my idle under control. Of course that doesn't work for me now since the weather is getting cold and it ildes too low in the morning.

I would not rule out vacuum leaks though in your troubleshooting since in my opinion the market price of the IACV is way inflated.

[pacmannproductions]

Other Idle controls are as follows in order.

1. Hoses and connections
2. Fast idle valve
3. Electronic air control valve (IACV is EACV)

So I checked my FITV after reading my manual and it mentioned after the car is warm that the plunger inside the valve SHOULD NOT be sucking in air once it's warmed up, and even with the car warmed up, the FITV was sucking in air. When I put my finger over the plunger hole, it balanced out the idle and would drop. My fans run when the engine turns on too incase that would make a diff, but car warm and cold it would suck in air, but wouldnt start surging until the car got warm. Think I need a new FITV valve then? My manual said if it sucks in air when warm then replace it. heres a link for a vid I just posted of me testing the FITV.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bRbNfUvUu1w

[nswst8]

Before you replace it, take the top off use a large screw driver to tighten the valve at the bottom.

[niles]

Rockauto.com has just as good as a price on those as anyone. You can find a discount code on here for rockauto. From what I've read it is not worth the hassle to rebuild or clean this part. I took mine apart and cleaned it and didn't make any difference. If anything it made the idle worse lol

Since you got it apart might be worth a shot to do what nswst8 said.

[nswst8]

Sounds like the FICV is the culprit. It's a common problem, just turn that valve until it bottoms out.