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View Full Version : What to look for while purchasing?



EbidaDragon
11-01-2012, 11:10 AM
This LX-i I was debating on going to look at seems like it has a lot of miles on the engine, but the price is so, so enticing at a low $700, and it's only one county over, to boot!

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?zip=30044&endYear=1993&showcaseOwnerId=55955385&startYear=1981&makeCode1=HONDA&sellerTypes=b&searchRadius=25&mmt=%5BHONDA%5B%5D%5B%5D%5D&listingId=329827609&Log=0

(eek, LONG link @_@ )

If I do go look at it with intent to buy, what are the general things I should look at/for on whether or not it's a worthwhile purchase? Trim looks dated, but the interior is only a step or so down from how nice mine is, and the engine bay doesn't look too bad as well. I know for sure that suspension will need to be looked at, but aside from stuff like CV axles and general things, I'm a little unlearned

2oodoor
11-01-2012, 11:29 AM
Sounds like you know the drill.. look at the coolant condition and color, the deal breakers for me would be severe rust, bad glass, oil bottles in the trunk, bottom end engine noises, totally crap tires and rigged up wiring hanging all over the place.
For 500 bucks and you want a coupe to work with, that's a good start.
Oh did I say 500, was it 700? calculate things it needs right away to be a daily driver in the cold.... and deduct from the asking price then haggle. :naughty:

Dr_Snooz
11-01-2012, 01:34 PM
I usually check the condition of all the fluids. Are they clean and filled correctly? I walk around the car and check for odd bonks and bangs. I do the same in the interior. Usually if there are a lot of random dents and really ground-in, nasty filth, I walk away. If the owner cared so little about the things I can see, he cared even less about the things I can't (which are much more expensive).

I look around the engine bay for obvious oil leaks. I also look under the car for oil. I always find it, so it becomes a judgment call as to how much oil is too much.

Definitely check the steering rack's boots. If they are torn and oily, the wrong oil has been used in the rack and it will crap out on you at some point. They are expensive to replace.

I also walk away from an engine bay that shows lots of corrosion. If it's in the engine bay where I can see it, it's in a lot of other places I can't see. Of course, I live in California, so rust free cars are plentiful. You have to decide how much is too much.

I start the engine, paying particular attention to how easily it starts up. Listen for any bearing noise upon start up. I listen to the engine at idle for smoothness and any odd noises. These engines can make a lot of valve noise, so I wouldn't necessarily be put off by some tapping from the top end. Gun the engine a few times and listen for crank noise. If you get any engine bearing noise, walk away.

Walk around to the back of the car to look for smoke. If the car is cold, you'll have some condensation, but any kind of smoke is a deal breaker.

Shift the car into gear (if AT) and feel how hard the gear engagement is. If it bangs hard into gear, then suspect that the trans is tired.

Take the car out on the road. On my test drives, I always push the car to the limit. If it's going to blow up, I want it to do so for the seller, not for me. I find a freeway on-ramp and do a WOT acceleration test from a stop. If the engine smokes, you'll see it at this time. If it torque-steers, you'll feel it. If the clutch is shot, it will slip. If the engine mounts are bad, you'll feel it.

I see how it tracks at speed on the freeway. These cars are somewhat twitchy, but they shouldn't wander or be difficult to keep in the lane. If the car wobbles or vibrates, it could be a bad tire...or frame damage from an accident. Walk away.

I try to find a looping freeway on or off-ramp so I can test how the car corners. I go into the turn slow and then put the hammer down to see at what point it breaks loose. On these cars, you should throw everything in the car, including yourself and all passengers out the window before it breaks loose. When it does break loose, it should be controlled. I've driven cars that let loose and the next thing you know, you're on the side of the road, facing backward. You don't want a car like that.

You can test brakes if you want, but I usually don't. If there is something wrong with the brakes, you'll already know after having driven down the highway like a madman and scaring the seller half-to-death.

ABOVE ALL, you want to be aware of how you feel when driving the car. Are you thinking about how awesome it is and how you want to go on a road trip the moment you buy it? Or are you cringing, afraid of what is about to break? When I was shopping for my BMW (since sold), I test-drove some Mercedes' and all I could think about was how expensive it would be when they broke. There was no enjoyment. I didn't get the same vibe from the Bimmers.

There are a lot of other things you can test, make sure all the lights work and the buttons on the dash, seat belt buckles, etc. etc. etc. Mostly, this is nitpicking. If the drivetrain is sound, you can fix all the rest of that stuff for pretty cheap. If all the buttons work, but the trans is out, you aren't going to buy the car. You can pay a shop to check plugs and do a compression check, etc. This is expensive and if you are aware when you drive the car, it will tell you everything you need to know before the shop does.

Judging from the pics, I would probaby skip the car you're looking at, but that's just me. You'll know when you see it.

Good luck with the hunt.

DBMaster
11-01-2012, 04:19 PM
Well, I would be most concerned about, "Needs transmission work."

derolph
11-02-2012, 09:32 AM
I'd want to have a compression test done on the engine to give me some solid evidence of the engine's health. Some auto service shops provide a standard multi-point inspection for a reasonable cost for prospective buyers of used cars. I'd inquire about cost of an inspection and ask whether it includes a compression test and, if not, how much more would that cost. It's really not a very complicated test so it shouldn't cost much more to have it done. Here's good video on this test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4

A good report from an inspection from a service shop would lead me toward purchase. The body and interior, as shown in the photos, look pretty good. No evidence of major rust problems.

Edit: Eh, I just saw the comment on the auto ad site about "Needs some transmission work". That could be the deal killer.

2oodoor
11-02-2012, 01:28 PM
I'd want to have a compression test done on the engine to give me some solid evidence of the engine's health. Some auto service shops provide a standard multi-point inspection for a reasonable cost for prospective buyers of used cars. I'd inquire about cost of an inspection and ask whether it includes a compression test and, if not, how much more would that cost. It's really not a very complicated test so it shouldn't cost much more to have it done. Here's good video on this test: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4

A good report from an inspection from a service shop would lead me toward purchase. The body and interior, as shown in the photos, look pretty good. No evidence of major rust problems.

Edit: Eh, I just saw the comment on the auto ad site about "Needs some transmission work". That could be the deal killer.
I gotta tell ya , if you came to buy my 20 yr old car for 700 bucks and you said you wanted to have a compression check done on it, I would either tell you the car wasnt for sale or the price just went up. There isnt enough value involved in this case, the depreciation is in the price already. If the price were 1700 or more, maybe then.

derolph
11-02-2012, 01:54 PM
I gotta tell ya , if you came to buy my 20 yr old car for 700 bucks and you said you wanted to have a compression check done on it, I would either tell you the car wasnt for sale or the price just went up. There isnt enough value involved in this case, the depreciation is in the price already. If the price were 1700 or more, maybe then.OK, I see your point. And, yeah, for a $700 car, I guess I wouldn't press the issue of getting a compression test done. In addition a test drive, I would at least listen very carefully to the engine idling, both up close to the engine and at the exhaust. If one cylinder has much lower compression than the others, this may be noticeable by carefully listening. If it purrs like a kitten, you have a good sign.

Vanilla Sky
11-02-2012, 03:07 PM
Expect the transmission to be bad. I'd be looking to do a manual swap in it since that one is already bad. I bought a much nicer, much lower mile, manual doppelganger for $350 with a bad transmission. My car also came with a box of new parts, but I had to bring my own wheels. For the car you posted, I would be a buyer at $400, $500 would be my absolute limit.

derolph
11-02-2012, 03:27 PM
For the car you posted, I would be a buyer at $400, $500 would be my absolute limit.Wow, that seems awfully conservative to me. I don't know whether more info can be obtained from cars listed on such websites; if it can, I'd be asking about age of tires, battery, any maintenance history, etc. Regardless of any additional info be attainable, when I look at those photos and see no body rust (I see license plate for Georgia, so no crappy winter road chemicals there,like here in Ohio) and a good interior, I don't think I'd let a $700 price stop me if were looking for a 3rd gen Accord in Georgia or nearby.

EbidaDragon
11-02-2012, 03:36 PM
Wow, that seems awfully conservative to me. I don't know whether more info can be obtained from cars listed on such websites; if it can, I'd be asking about age of tires, battery, any maintenance history, etc. Regardless of any additional info be attainable, when I look at those photos and see no body rust (I see license plate for Georgia, so no crappy winter road chemicals there,like here in Ohio) and a good interior, I don't think I'd let a $700 price stop me if were looking for a 3rd gen Accord in Georgia or nearby.

They tend to be ~1500 for pretty much all in my area, and some have less than 100k miles on them (I bought my current LX for 1300, though it's carbed and still runs a little bit rough, though that may be opinion. Bottom end sounds good and my valvetrain looked not half bad when I changed the valve cover gasket)

Just really interested in this one because of the FI..and the price for a coupe that looks to have a good body.
If anything, I could always switch over my current AT to it until I was able to snag a good transmission from ManTrans.

This one does have 300k on it, though, so I'd bet the engine might be pretty tired.

I feel like I should make a decision to at least look at it soon, because for the price, someone else might take it just for the body.

I really appreciate all the tips from you guys, and from what you say, Snooz, I really should have given mine a harder test drive, heh(Didn't have a tag, so I couldn't :c). I love it still, even if I worry about it a lot <.> I really adore these cars now.

Dr_Snooz
11-02-2012, 08:03 PM
I'd lowball the guy on a price. We get so many "transmission work" threads here that amount to little more than a flush and TV cable adjustment.

If you can use your existing car as a parts car, you might be able to build up a real gem between the two. I paid $650 a decade ago for a car with the crankshaft in the trunk. If you can build a good car out of it, then consider it.

Civic Accord Honda
11-02-2012, 08:49 PM
id pass due to miles and trans...now if it was $300 id get it lol


this is a better deal... thats not a prelude b20 thats the real jdm 3g b20a...
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/cto/3341453884.html


also heres some non 3g good accord deals
clean 2g ^_^
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/3365103344.html

clean 4g
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/cto/3354246384.html


but dude go get that b20a 3g!!!!!!!

Dr_Snooz
11-03-2012, 08:21 AM
Just remember that finding parts for a JDM B20 is going to be a lot more difficult than simply running down to the corner Autozone. I wouldn't have a B20 for a daily driver.

elarson88
11-03-2012, 10:54 AM
Usually if there are a lot of random dents and really ground-in, nasty filth, I walk away. If the owner cared so little about the things I can see, he cared even less about the things I can't (which are much more expensive).

Yeah that B20 car looks pretty beat...

EbidaDragon
11-03-2012, 05:28 PM
I'd lowball the guy on a price. We get so many "transmission work" threads here that amount to little more than a flush and TV cable adjustment.

If you can use your existing car as a parts car, you might be able to build up a real gem between the two. I paid $650 a decade ago for a car with the crankshaft in the trunk. If you can build a good car out of it, then consider it.

That's kind of what I was thinking, if I do end up going to look at it.
The only issue would be that I would be able to use not that much from my car engine-wise. Interior, some, body, yeah, transmission, same, but..not much aside from exhaust, my bottom end, and plugs(or is the FI head different in that respect?) from my A1 will be able to be switched over.

Vanilla Sky
11-04-2012, 11:44 AM
The heads are the same. There are a couple of small things that aren't the same, but there's plenty there to make it worthwhile.

EbidaDragon
11-04-2012, 03:49 PM
The heads are the same. There are a couple of small things that aren't the same, but there's plenty there to make it worthwhile.

Wow, can't believe I forgot the head was the same >.<

Thing is, if I bought this one, it would probably become my primary (coupe <3), but my LX has like..half the miles.(just hit 170k a few weeks ago)

Civic Accord Honda
11-04-2012, 06:07 PM
if you bought the coupe you couild always swap your long block in since it has lower miles. could swap your trans in while your at it...throw the other motor and trans in to your lx and resale it for profit!