BrownEye02
11-15-2012, 09:33 PM
Hi, Im new member here but have been digging around the forms for a while. I was hoping to find a solution to my problem with out having to post but it seams that's not gonna be the case. Recent symptoms have popped up that are quite serous and cant wait to be fixed any longer. Ill try and make this short yet detailed. Let me know if you need any more info.
The car is a 89 Accord DX that had 120,000 miles on it when I got it. The timing belt had been replaced about a month before it came into my possession. When it was replaced the A/C pump was removed. It looks to me like it was yanked because the insides were rusted out. When I first got the car it wasn't running so hot. Me and my step dad did some tests and could only come up with adjusting the choke open a bit more. This didn't help much but during this time we tested the compression and every cylinder tested at about 165 psi ranging no more then 5 psi between cylinders. I then went and got my emissions tested and failed. I barley failed but failed due to not burning all my fuel. I replaced my air filter, got a oil change, and ran 2 tanks full of carb cleaner. After all that I passed with flying colors. About a month or two later I figured out the PCV valve was bad and this fixed several of my issues.
Parts replaced:
PCV valve (Old valve only had spring left in it)
Spark Plugs (day 1)
Spark Plug Wires (day 1)
Distributor Cap (day 1)
Air Filter
All 4 Struts
Symptoms: (order in worst to moderate)
1. When motor is in between being fully warm up and cold it will idle at about 3500 rpm. If I tap the gas it will bog down about 100 - 200 rpm but will rev right back up to 3500 rpm. Turning the motor off and back on does not fix the issue. Only way to stop this is to let the motor sit and cool back down. (This rarely happens. About once a month. I cant seem to find any way to repeat the symptom either.)
2. This recently started happening and is starting to happen more and more but is still quite rare. It starts on a fresh start. The motor will run on 1 - 3 cylinders during warm up and will smoke a bit. It will sometime die on initial start but a quick rev of about 2000 rpm for 5 - 10 sec will fix this. When the motor is in between warm and cold it will start idling at about 2000 rpm (most common when happening), or it will slowly rough idle its way to stalling. If this happens I have to hold the gas to the floor to de-flood the motor. This will continue to happen even when the motor is fully warmed up. I can sometimes fix this by turning the car off then back on (having to de-flood the motor). This worked the other day and the motor ran perfect the rest of the day. No matter whats happening the car will stutter when driving at around 2000 rpm. (Gas millage is in the toilet when this happens.)
3. (Happens every day) Almost same as above; On initial start the motor will rev up to about 2000 rpm for 10 sec then bog down to about 1000 - 500 rpm. The motor will be running on 1 - 3 cylinders smoking. Rarely will the motor stall but if it does, revving to 2000 rpm for 10 sec will stop it form stalling again. If I let the car sit for about 5 min it will be running on all 4 cylinders and be revving at about 2500 - 3000 rpm. A quick tap of the gas peddle will bring the idle down (still running on all 4). After the motor is warm it will be at normal idle and run fine.
4. (Happens every day) When shifting between gears the motor revs up about 100 rpm. This is not due to bad foot work. I have been driving manuals since day 1. I'm not saying I don't make mistakes. God knows I do. I'm just saying this is something not caused by me. You can really notice it when the car is between being fully warmed up and cold. Once the motor is warm a slight rev happens between gears but is barley noticeable.
5. I doubt this has anything to do with my other symptoms but I'm still putting this in here just to be safe. The cruse control randomly works. Most of the time Ill go to set the cruse control. The light next to the cruse control button lights up and when I push set the dash light comes on but no speed is held. The dash light will turn off after about 3 sec. Maybe once or twice a week Ill go to set the cruse control and it will work but will slowly decel until the cruse control turns off completely. This rarely happens about once a month but when it does my cruse control will work flawlessly. It some times will work for about an hour then randomly shut off. But most times when it works and will work till I stop driving.
I love this car to death and wouldn't trade it for anything in the world. My dad has a LXi that's two years older then mine. Its been in the family for years and still runs like a champ. I mainly use this car to get back and forth to class. The main reason for getting it though is to drive my buddies and my self up to the mountains. Besides the first two symptoms nothing is really serous. If it weren't for me and the way I think your average person would just ignore everything and drive. I just cant stand it when a car doesn't run perfect. I just believe a car represents a person. When my car runs crappy I feel crappy. I'm sick of feeling crappy and would love to finally fix it all. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. THANKS!
My vacuum hoses look very good. I've skimmed over them several times and have never seen a crack or crusty line. I've never sprayed starter fluid on them but plan to when its warm enough outside. I'm hoping to post a pick so you can see the conditioned everything's in. I know it will help with diagnosing. Ive skimmed through the thread quite a bit like I stated above. The recent thread Trick to Cold Weather? (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?79017-Trick-to-Cold-Weather) is close to some of my symptoms but is not quite there. Ill still be keeping an eye on it though.
The car is a 89 Accord DX that had 120,000 miles on it when I got it. The timing belt had been replaced about a month before it came into my possession. When it was replaced the A/C pump was removed. It looks to me like it was yanked because the insides were rusted out. When I first got the car it wasn't running so hot. Me and my step dad did some tests and could only come up with adjusting the choke open a bit more. This didn't help much but during this time we tested the compression and every cylinder tested at about 165 psi ranging no more then 5 psi between cylinders. I then went and got my emissions tested and failed. I barley failed but failed due to not burning all my fuel. I replaced my air filter, got a oil change, and ran 2 tanks full of carb cleaner. After all that I passed with flying colors. About a month or two later I figured out the PCV valve was bad and this fixed several of my issues.
Parts replaced:
PCV valve (Old valve only had spring left in it)
Spark Plugs (day 1)
Spark Plug Wires (day 1)
Distributor Cap (day 1)
Air Filter
All 4 Struts
Symptoms: (order in worst to moderate)
1. When motor is in between being fully warm up and cold it will idle at about 3500 rpm. If I tap the gas it will bog down about 100 - 200 rpm but will rev right back up to 3500 rpm. Turning the motor off and back on does not fix the issue. Only way to stop this is to let the motor sit and cool back down. (This rarely happens. About once a month. I cant seem to find any way to repeat the symptom either.)
2. This recently started happening and is starting to happen more and more but is still quite rare. It starts on a fresh start. The motor will run on 1 - 3 cylinders during warm up and will smoke a bit. It will sometime die on initial start but a quick rev of about 2000 rpm for 5 - 10 sec will fix this. When the motor is in between warm and cold it will start idling at about 2000 rpm (most common when happening), or it will slowly rough idle its way to stalling. If this happens I have to hold the gas to the floor to de-flood the motor. This will continue to happen even when the motor is fully warmed up. I can sometimes fix this by turning the car off then back on (having to de-flood the motor). This worked the other day and the motor ran perfect the rest of the day. No matter whats happening the car will stutter when driving at around 2000 rpm. (Gas millage is in the toilet when this happens.)
3. (Happens every day) Almost same as above; On initial start the motor will rev up to about 2000 rpm for 10 sec then bog down to about 1000 - 500 rpm. The motor will be running on 1 - 3 cylinders smoking. Rarely will the motor stall but if it does, revving to 2000 rpm for 10 sec will stop it form stalling again. If I let the car sit for about 5 min it will be running on all 4 cylinders and be revving at about 2500 - 3000 rpm. A quick tap of the gas peddle will bring the idle down (still running on all 4). After the motor is warm it will be at normal idle and run fine.
4. (Happens every day) When shifting between gears the motor revs up about 100 rpm. This is not due to bad foot work. I have been driving manuals since day 1. I'm not saying I don't make mistakes. God knows I do. I'm just saying this is something not caused by me. You can really notice it when the car is between being fully warmed up and cold. Once the motor is warm a slight rev happens between gears but is barley noticeable.
5. I doubt this has anything to do with my other symptoms but I'm still putting this in here just to be safe. The cruse control randomly works. Most of the time Ill go to set the cruse control. The light next to the cruse control button lights up and when I push set the dash light comes on but no speed is held. The dash light will turn off after about 3 sec. Maybe once or twice a week Ill go to set the cruse control and it will work but will slowly decel until the cruse control turns off completely. This rarely happens about once a month but when it does my cruse control will work flawlessly. It some times will work for about an hour then randomly shut off. But most times when it works and will work till I stop driving.
I love this car to death and wouldn't trade it for anything in the world. My dad has a LXi that's two years older then mine. Its been in the family for years and still runs like a champ. I mainly use this car to get back and forth to class. The main reason for getting it though is to drive my buddies and my self up to the mountains. Besides the first two symptoms nothing is really serous. If it weren't for me and the way I think your average person would just ignore everything and drive. I just cant stand it when a car doesn't run perfect. I just believe a car represents a person. When my car runs crappy I feel crappy. I'm sick of feeling crappy and would love to finally fix it all. Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated. THANKS!
My vacuum hoses look very good. I've skimmed over them several times and have never seen a crack or crusty line. I've never sprayed starter fluid on them but plan to when its warm enough outside. I'm hoping to post a pick so you can see the conditioned everything's in. I know it will help with diagnosing. Ive skimmed through the thread quite a bit like I stated above. The recent thread Trick to Cold Weather? (http://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?79017-Trick-to-Cold-Weather) is close to some of my symptoms but is not quite there. Ill still be keeping an eye on it though.