88 Accord EFI with rear main seal leak?

[mboardman]

OK, side note to 3geez moderators - please think about extending the timeout here. I dont know why everyone is so security crazy. I was composing a post, and when I hit submit, it all disappeared into a black hole. Thanks 3geez....

Short version this time - I bought an 88 Accord for $300 and intending to fix and flip it. I have tools and a lift. owners said rear main seal. I get it home and begin inspecting, and I find half a cup of engine oil in the bottom part of the AIR filter housing. Ive worked on my share of cars but cant think of a scenario where oil would end up in the air filter. However, and this might be key - I noticed the hose coming from the pcv valve was collapsed and kinked near where it makes a 90 degree bend and enters the EFI housing. Clue? Im secretly hoping that the pcv valve somehow caused an oil accumulation or symptom that would mimick a rear main seal leak.....:)

Entire underside of the tran is caked with oil and dirt, but this is not uncommon for an older car....other than that, are there other symptoms of a main seal leak in these models/years? Also, if it turns out the seal leak is a valid diagnosis, do I need to remove the engine to address the seal swap? Or can I simple remove the tran and replace the seal with the car on the lift?

[Legend_master]

I would definitely be looking at the pcv system for oil in the intake. Problem is that would mean there is excessive pressure in the crankcase. I would take a pressure washer to all that old oil to help you determine where the leak is.

[mboardman]

OK, found posts relating to teh pvc creating blowback into the air intake. Im planning on replacing it and the attached hose anyway, but still wondering if I really need to pull this engine if the seal is bad. Or can I just pull the tran from underneath.

[Legend_master]

Really depends on the tools you have. If you have a full shop I would just pull the engine, it will make the whole job easier. If not you can change the rear main seal while the engine is still in the car.

[Dr_Snooz]

It's rare for the main seal to go in these cars. It's a lot more likely for the distributor o-ring to fail. When it does, it looks exactly like a rear main leak. Also, the PCV systems on these cars are getting very old and the rubber is hard and brittle. What started as a simple hose replacement on mine, turned into a complete overhaul of the PCV system from end to end. I even replaced the breather box. It sounds like yours might need a lot of love too, so just be ready for that.

[mboardman]

is this the fabled O-ring? I searched threads but couldnt find any pics of the replacement procedure. I know its simple, but damn I have a talent for screwing up simple things. Just wanted to make sure.

[Dr_Snooz]

That's the one. Is it flattened on one side? If so, that's your problem.

[mboardman]

OK, update: replaced the dizzy O-ring, but this did not stop the leak and it was apparent after knowing what to look for/at, that my accord is one of the rare ones whose main seal is shot. With the engine running, I could clearly see oil getting thrown out the timing observation port and down the front side of the engine, as well as on the driver's side axle junction at the transmission housing. It was leaking badly, about half a quart over a 30 minute period of observation.

So I resolved the remove the engine/tranny and its now out in one piece. Ive removed all bolts that seem to hold the tran housing to the engine block but its not seperating. Reading the manual, it looks like I need to remove the end cover on the tran, in order to release the engine input shaft. Is this correct? Seems I should be able to seperate the tran without disassembling the insides on the far end....page 314 of the manual seems to indicate just such a method. I have no desire or need to disassemble the tran itself. I just need to seperate it from the engine so I can access that shitty main seal.

anyone done this before, pls advise.

[mboardman]

OK, disregard last question, I figured it out. Next question - how do I take these bolts off the drive plate????

[Legend_master]

OK, disregard last question, I figured it out. Next question - how do I take these bolts off the drive plate????

An impact would help you out with removing those. If you do not have one available, you will need to lock the crank in place. I'm sure there is some place to put a metal shaft to lock it from moving, but I am a little more familiar with b-series motor. What I would suggest is attaching a cheater bar to the crank pulley bolt and have it rest against the ground to prevent the crankshaft from moving.

[mboardman]

I have an impact gun, and can stabilize the crank pulley/bolt, but what size sockets will grab these odd bolts? 17mm is too small, 19mm is too big. I dont have an 18mm socket to try. Plus they have a very odd shaped head. Never encountered this before.

[Legend_master]

I have an impact gun, and can stabilize the crank pulley/bolt, but what size sockets will grab these odd bolts? 17mm is too small, 19mm is too big. I dont have an 18mm socket to try. Plus they have a very odd shaped head. Never encountered this before.

it should be a 12point 17mm.

[mboardman]

Thanks, that got it. Never occurred to me to use my 12point sockets, stuffed in the back of the cabinet, never used.

[Legend_master]

Thanks, that got it. Never occurred to me to use my 12point sockets, stuffed in the back of the cabinet, never used.

Yep I don't use mine often lol, I'm guessing they just add more grip for items like this.