New Honda Oem oil pan gasket leaking

[zenapup]

I recently replaced the oil pan gasket on my freshly rebuilt a20a3 (felpro only had 2k miles on it and already was leaking) :chainsaw: i replaced it with a Honda oem gasket and while the leak is much slower, it is annoying as it is the ONLY leak the engine currently has with 2000 miles on the rebuild (more like resealing and new bearings/rings). Both gaskets are leaking at the point where it looks like the rear main seal is leaking (Honda oem seal was installed with all other oem seals known on engine when rebuilt) so I have a hard time believing that the rear main is now leaking. My first question is how would I make certain that the rear main is not leaking, (short of removing the transmission). Second, why is the oil pan gasket still leaking?????

I followed the following procedure while installing both gaskets:

(Installed gasket to block first time, installed to pan second time)

Cleaned mating surfaces thoroughly
Installed gasket
Sealed the four corners on both sides of the gasket
Installed pan to block with all fasteners then torqued in sequence to 120 lb-in. until all fasteners held this torque value: first the two center studs, then left two bolts, then right two bolts, then alternating between left 2 and right 2
Then I reassembled everything, came back two days later to find the trans mount covered in oil.

At this point, this emoticon describes me :dunno: thanks in advance for any help.

[Dr_Snooz]

The pan gasket is very difficult to replace with the transmission still attached. It can be done (I've done it) but you stand a very good chance of having the gasket roll off the edge of the pan in that spot as you lift the pan into place. You can check what the gasket has done on every other edge of the pan, but up against the trans there, you can't see anything. I dropped my pan several times before torquing it to find that the gasket had managed to roll off each time. I forget what I finally did to keep it in place. Seeing that the gaskets come all twisted up, just keeping them in place is your greatest challenge. Otherwise, your post is the perfect how-to for replacing the pan gasket.

I really can't figure out why Honda didn't slightly undersize the bolt holes on the gasket like other companies do. That way you can thread all your bolts into the gasket before installation. The bolts hold the gasket in place and the gasket holds the bolts in position. I really, really can't figure out why an aftermarket supplier hasn't done that either. That's where I go :dunno:

The rear main is not a common leak point on these cars.

Good luck with the repair. It sucks.

[zenapup]

I had no problem getting it to stay in place, where did yours keep rolling off? I replaced it the first time on an engine stand, dang that was so much easier. I rebuilt the engine with all new oem parts minus the head gasket, and I replaced EVERY seal/gasket/oring/crush washer/etc on that engine (heck, I even disassembled the transmission, cleaned everyrthing, and replaced EVERY seal/oring/crush washer on it too, now the trans is leak-free and this coolant is ruining the cleanliness of both the trans and the engine that I just finished cleaning :rant: and now I only have the classic EFI coolant leak and this stupid oil pan gasket. At least my efi coolant leaks can be solved by using screw-type clamps until I collect all of the OEM hoses so I can replace them all at once, they are only seeping at the joints and I already fixed half of the leaks with this method. Let me know on the oil pan gasket rolling off, because I can see my oil pan gasket just fine with the clutch cover, trans mounts, and center beam out of the car and it seems to be in correct position, just seems like the gasket is leaking right from the rear main seal. Is there any way to test the rear main seal without removing the transmission? I tied all 18 bolt holes to the pan before installing it, so maybe that's why it didn't roll off of the pan on me. I had it securely attached to the pan the whole time.

[zenapup]

Feel free to use the post to make a how-to, it seems that it is a common question in relation to the oil pan gasket replacement

[Rendon LX-i]

Did you use silicone on the gasket? If so that's your problem

[zenapup]

I used Permatex #2 form-a-gasket, is that silicone? If so, what should I use?

[Legend_master]

I always use RTV grey stuff, it works well.

[Rendon LX-i]

you suppose to apply only on the tips of the U shape that are on both sides of oil pan thats it. you always put an oil pan gasket dry. IF you apply silicone all around then tighten up the gasket it will sqeeze out the gasket and not make a good seal if anything it will feel like its not tighting correctly thus you over tighten it an damaging the gasket. ;)

[dieselgus]

I have had very good results with either anerobic sealer or Hondabond at the corners. Just did my pan gasket a couple weeks ago due to replacing the oilpan (previous owner took it to a quickee lube type place all of its life, and lo and behold, the drain bung was just dickered. Tabernac), and do remember the pan being a bitch to snake back up in there without losing the gasket on the tranny end of things. Did the bolt thing on the for corners and it worked like a charm. I believe it was a victor-renz or somethingor other manufactured gasket.

No leaks, all is very well.

[88Accord-DX]

Little late here. good u figured it out. Another thing is make sure your pan is nice & straight measured with a straight edge. (For future)

[Dr_Snooz]

where did yours keep rolling off?

In the U section where you can't tie it down. It gets pushed up between the block and the drive plate/flywheel and it's impossible to see (at least for me it was). The gasket came off the lip a little and pushed its way off to the side. It would have been a great big leak if I'd installed it that way.

There's not any real test for a rear main leak that I'm aware of, but if the drive plate has oil on it, then that would be a bad sign. You might also check if oil is getting slung around inside the bell housing.

How bad is the leak? Are you sure that your oil leak isn't just coolant with road grime in it?

[zenapup]

No oil in bell housing or on flywheel, it is oil for sure, I managed to fix the coolant leaks by using screw-type clamps. The leak isn't that bad, it just bothers me since it is the only leak on the engine, I'll see if it continues when I drive it tomorrow. The leak only seems to happen while the engine is NOT running and after sitting, which eliminates the rear main as a possibility if my thought process is correct.

[Dr_Snooz]

Could it be the breather box for the PCV?

[zenapup]

No, it's coming directly off the side of the pan gasket where it is u-shaped

[88Accord-DX]

The end of the crankshaft where the seal rubs on it, could have a grove on it causing a slow leak.

[AccordB20A]

my crx had the leak there too and it was due to a metal sleeve thing that goes through the gasket on the bolt. id mistakenly left the old one there so there was two.

[obd0driver]

Man reading this dosnt make what to do mine. Smh but its got to be done

[MessyHonda]

Man reading this dosnt make what to do mine. Smh but its got to be done

let me know if you need a hand. i could stop by if im free

[zenapup]

I think I might have solved it by retorquing the oil pan one more time, but I still need to remove the trans mount and clutch cover to be completely sure. I'll report back when I check into it.

[obd0driver]

let me know if you need a hand. i could stop by if im free
Ill b taking you up on this offer. I've been talking with the guys on FB and Chris thinks it may also be my oil pump gasket as well. do to the fact that it only leaks when the car is running or after it get warm and its seems to come from the timing cover area.

[2oodoor]

that sounds like the oil pump seals, there is one inside the pump as well so best to do both of them. Very easy job.

[Dr_Snooz]

Very easy job.

LOL. Compared to what exactly? It takes a couple hours just to get to it!

[zenapup]

Retorquing the pan solved my leak, 600 miles and no leaks so far

[anubix]

I'll just post this here to get the info on the board.

I have had alot of 3geez over the years.
Whomever came up with lifetime warranty parts was an idiot.

Sometimes the oil pan gasket (also applies to valve cover) will just not seal.
Here is a technique I developed to get even the most stubborn leaks stopped on the first try (assuming that actually is your only problem)

First: clean the mating surfaces thoroughly. Be certain there are ABSOLUTELY NO remnants of the old gasket on any mating surfaces. Make sure to get all pieces of previous silicone sealant off of mating surfaces. If using a scraping tool (screwdriver etc) be very careful not to score the mating surfaces which can cause new leaks. Wiping oil off the mating surfaces with a rag is not good enough. Use brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner (i spray it on a rag, then wipe) on mating surfaces to eliminate all oil reside. I have found that if this one crucial step is not done correctly it will fail to seal. Do this to both mating surfaces (block and oil pan).

Second: Put a bead of RTV (gray: always gray) on the (4) corners where the mating surface becomes convex around the crankshaft bearing.

Usually this is enough. Sometimes it isn't: so here's the hail-mairy

Wear latex gloves and put some RTV gray on your thumb and forefinger. Slowly run the gasket through your fingers and spread a thin coat of RTV all over the entire gasket. If you use too much it will be pushed out of the way when the mating surfaces are torqued together and wasted. Just a thin layer is enough.

Next I then stick the oil pan gasket to the clean block being careful not to get any oil on it. RTV Gray has always been enough to hold it in place while i stick the oil pan on after it, and put nuts only on the studs to finger tight to keep everything from moving while i torque the bolts down in sequence.

I have not yet met a 3g valve cover or oil pan I could not eventually get to hold fluid using this technique.

cheers

[Oldblueaccord]

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Well took a try at mine last weekend. This is a spectra oil pan. Not to bad of a unit but i needed a floor jack to get it on the block the pan would not line up with the studs quite right but im sure the block is warped not the pan :nuts:

Im convinced now the only correct way to put on a Honda oil pan is to flip the car on its roof. It took about 8 tries but I got it on there without the gasket slipping. It hits the windage tray every time it goes up on the back side of the block. There is also a torque patter like said inside bolts to outside.

I had changed the gasket out about 9 years ago and it was very very brittle and hard as a rock this time.

[lostforawhile]

The trick is to clean everything, then use a gasket adhesive, adhesive not sealer, like versachem, then bond the gasket to the pan first, just be sure to stick some old bolts through the holes in the pan,to keep it aligned while it sets, it takes about two hours to fully cure, once its set, you can move the pan anyway you need to install it, and the gasket wont fall off

[Dr_Snooz]

The biggest problem I'm having with gaskets is finding ones that aren't 24 years old and thus, hard as rock.

[Oldblueaccord]

The biggest problem I'm having with gaskets is finding ones that aren't 24 years old and thus, hard as rock.

This one was a regular Fel pro parts store. its was rubber. I tacked the 4 corners but it calls for no sealant. I just use sewing thread on every other bolt hole. its getting it on and the breather hose is a PIA. The holes aren't tight enough to hold the bolts in upside down. its prolly cake if the motor is upside down on a motor stand.

I might snug it up in a few days and keep chasing leaks.

[Dr_Snooz]

Yeah, I had a "brand new" valve cover gasket that leaked like a mofo. I went and bought another one that the store assured me was not more than 6 months old. The difference between the two gaskets was remarkable. The new, new gasket was considerably softer and more pliable. It was much easier to work with too. So watch out for those NOS gaskets floating around out there.