Tranny fluid capacity

[bscanlan]

The manual states that the tranny holds 6 qts of ATF. I went to Honda and bought 6 qts of the new DW (or something) that replaced the ZF-1 and put 5 qts in. This is after draining the engine via the drain plug, and hoisting the engine up (tranny side down) for removal. I am wondering how much fluid remains in the tranny since adding a few drops from the 6th qt began filling up the filler tube neck; much higher on the dipstick than it should be. I plan on turning the motor over via the starter but without spark in an effort to circulate some fluids. Will this kill my tranny or is there air in there that will take on some of the fluid? I have turned it over with a socket on the crank pulley, but that is pretty slow and gentle.

[2oodoor]

Remember the torque converter holds some fluid that won't drain out via the tranny drain plug.
Also atf expands slightly when it warms up. I would drain some out and capture it then start off with 3.5 qts, crank up the motor and cycle the shifter from r to d while holding the brake. Do that several times then let the car idle a few min then shut it down to check the dipsick.
Add 3 or 4oz at a time till the level is right.

I don't recall even putting a whole five qts in but ive not started with a new converter on one of these yet.
Car parked on levl ground.

[bscanlan]

All of that makes good sense. Thanks. Since I have no suspension or brakes on the car yet, I will start her up and keep her in park. Once I have done suspension I will conduct the process. I need to flush coolant, top off oil after the first warm up, and then bleed the steering fluid with the new rack, so there is plenty to do. I will keep posting updates.

[bscanlan]

Okay so I think I have transmission fluid taken care of. I turned the motor over last night and it started right up after six months off and complete disassembly pretty exciting. I did however follow the manual instructions and left the coolant cap off and the thermostat did not open after heating and suck more down rather it overflowed any ideas?

[2oodoor]

I usually leave the cap on but only on the first click so any overflow goes in the reservior. Also squeeze the top hose some as u add coolant, this kind of burps it some. You also have to bleed air out of system via the bleeder up by the Thst housing.

[Dr_Snooz]

If you filled the radiator cold, the coolant will expand as it heats and overflow.

[firefighterwhite89]

Last time I filled my manual prelude transmission, I jacked up the passenger side of the car, used a hose and funnel and filled it til it was coming out the top fill plug. I wanted to make sure that thing stayed lubed. But I have heard instead of using castrol 10w-30, its even better to run something like diesel truck oil, ie something much thicker than that of what it calls for. Any ideas, comments or opinions?

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[Dr_Snooz]

An oil that's too heavy will have a hard time traveling all the way down the mainshaft and squirting out the tiny hole that lubes 5th. In other words, you stand a good chance of having to do some work on the trans if you run too heavy an oil. Overfilling oil tends to blow seals, leading to oil loss and more potential trans work. It's hard to outsmart the Honda engineers, especially on these cars. Just do it the way they recommend.

[firefighterwhite89]

Very good point. These cars were well engineered. My cars older than me. :-) and still runs great!
Would running a thinner oil help?
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[firefighterwhite89]

And were preludes si smaller geared transmissions better at oiling 5th, as opposed to the stock lxi transmission?

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[MessyHonda]

And were preludes si smaller geared transmissions better at oiling 5th, as opposed to the stock lxi transmission?

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im sure they are the same casting with just different gears.

[dieselgus]

Usual automatic tranny fluid change involves 9 litres. Drain out 3, refill with 3. Drive for a little bit (say 10km). Repeat twice more, consider it a complete fluid change. The capacity given in the manual is for an empty fresh transmission as 6 litres, and 3 L per drain.

Power flushing is no bueno.

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[Dr_Snooz]

Power flushing is no bueno.

I've power flushed a couple cars and had good results. What do you know that I don't?

[2oodoor]

Flushing is the only way to service most late model atx I don't understand how it's no good~?~

[dieselgus]

From what I have read and chatting with a few mechanics, the simple drain/fill method works the best on these (and a lot of other Honda and import) vehicles.

Think a lot of the power flush stuff exists due to the lack of a dipstick and proper drain plug on a lot of the newer vehicles that are on the road, especially the domestic stuff (Cavalier, Sunfire and other GM cars come to mind right off the bat). Here is another scenario to ponder........say for instance the lines were hooked up backwards. Or perhaps the pressure used is too high. Or it flushes the crap out of the filter going the wrong way and reintroduces it into the transmission on the non filtered side. The new trannies are designed with a power flush in mind and it is the only way to get the fluid out. Older stuff.....ahh, maybe I am just old and such, but if it has a drain plug, and there is a pretty easy procedure to change the fluid, well, probably isn't a bad route to go at all. Say if you do your transmission fluid every 4 oil changes or so. You are under there already, it doesn't take long to slide the drain pain over and pop a ratchet onto the drain plug, have a look at the material stuck to the magnet, look for other leaks etc. I do wish the filter was user servicable though. That is really the only issue I have with these transmissions.

[Dr_Snooz]

I do wish the filter was user servicable though. That is really the only issue I have with these transmissions.

They go 400,000 miles with those filters. It's hard to hate on that.

I see what you're saying about flushes. Let an idiot get ahold of anything and it's sure to be a big mess. I like the flushes because you can get every last drop of old fluid out without farting around for weeks on end. They are pricey though.

[dieselgus]

That is kinda the thing. Realistically, if the car is up on jack stands or a hoist with the front wheels off the ground, the fluid change procedure in the service manual is really pretty painless. Drop the 3L, refill, zip it through the gears a few times, repeat. Half an hour at most. When I did the last service on my EX I did the first 3L with the oil change, did a big trip of like 5000km, changed the oil when I returned (along with the oil pan due to a dickered drain plug from some quicklube asshat that the previous owner was probably not aware of. Tabernac.) and swapped out another 3L, then did the final 3L a week later when I was under there changing out the fan sensor and swapping out the shitty sealed beams for Hella housings with Silverstars.

I will definately take the transmission service procedure on these cars over the VW any day of the week. Hardest part is getting at the fill hole. And special note to anyone changing transmission and diff fluids on anything. ALWAYS REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST! Not only does it help the fluid drain faster, but life is no fun if you just dripped the fluid out of an assembly and have no way of putting the fluid back in, hey? Have not personally had the joy, however I do know a couple folks that have and it really can just ruin your day/add all kinds of extra bullshit to a day.

[ecogabriel]

Very good point. These cars were well engineered. My cars older than me. :-) and still runs great!
Would running a thinner oil help?
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In my 93 Civic I am using Synchromesh fluid. It is like the Honda MT fluid and it costs about the same, but I am too lazy to go to the stealership. It should work fine in the 3G.
Engine oil is fine just don't go overboard with the viscosity. 15W40 should be OK in my opinion unless you live in a very cold climate. That is, for a manual transmission - we have hacked a thread about capacity in automatics.... LOL!