CLUTCH How to NEEDED !

[ACCORD EX]

sure every body knows that a clutch Job is so expensive at a shop and the parts ain't so expensive !
so i am asking anybody who done this job a several times to do a how to on that ( pictures aren't that important i can put them ) . i know you gonna tell get a Haynes or a Paul's service manual ! but i think a clutch job really needs experience !

take your time but i am sure a lot of people will appreciate !
i wish i was experienced to write it ! :(


thanx every body !

P.S no BS please , a full how to from the start to the end !

MIKE

[ACCORD EX]

anybody ! ??


MIKE

[Site]

I'm doing my clutch right know and I've searched the board for tips, posted a thread on a couple of issues I was having, and I've emailed a couple 3Geez members to ask for advice. I'm using the Haynes manual and the Honda manual off Paul's website. Even with all that info - it would still be VERY helpful to have a step by step How-To with pictures from someone experienced. This is the first time I've messed with my clutch, tranny, hubs, driveaxles, etc. It takes me SO freaking long to get stuff like this done because I'm overly cautious. I don't want to bust anything up due to my lack of experience.

I totally agree with Accord EX - we need a good How-To by someone who has replaced several 3Gee clutches!

[ACCORD EX]

thanx for the support Site ! :super:

MIKE

[Cloud892dr]

I just finished my clutch job last week and it really wasn't that hard. The only problem i ran into is finding a way to let the transmission down and then putting it back up into place, i would suggest having a engine hoist or transmission jack to make it easier. I had a friend help me lift the transmission up into place.
I wish we did have a step by step procedure for this, because i had to wing it and use the Haynes book.

[GreenMachine]

I'm doin mine right now - dropped the tranny today.
I had blocks of wood supporting the tranny then had a budy hold the tranny from the top while I pulled the boards out then just lifted it down and out (Good thing our tranny aren't that heavy). The hardest part i've found so far is getting the flywheel out, Those bolts are wierd shaped. Anyone know the size on them I believe it is like 19mm 12hex socket ? :confused:
I'm sure I'll find somethin to get it off but would be nice to have the specific tool :stick:

[ACCORD EX]

we will keep this thread goinf until someone do a how to ! pleease ! :)


MIKE

[accord_lx_86]

GreenMachine...the pressure plate bolts and flywheels bolts are a metric 12-point socket..im not too sure on the size

[Cloud892dr]

I've only done a clutch job once on my Honda, i wouldn't be a good choice for a How To on it, but anything is possible. We need someone that's replaced a clutch a few times to start typing up a How To page. :deal: :bow:

[87accordlxi]

here's one i put together using chilton's. perhaps this will do

http://www.geocities.com/accordlxi87/howtoclutch.htm

[Site]

Thanks, Joe! I'm printing it off now to take home for ref. during the rest of the repair. I have a Haynes manual, but not a Chiltons. This will be a big help!

[GreenMachine]

Well the Size is 17mm if any one wants to know :D

[ACCORD EX]

thanks Joe you did a great job writing that ! i am searching for pics and more information to make it as easy as possible !

so i am asking everybody to post any pics about the tranny , clutch ( live pics would be great )
if you can't post send them to me @ [email protected]

we can do it !!!!


MIKE

[ACCORD EX]

i nearly finished after reading stuff from Joe's how to , haynes and service manual !
now i have to ask some questions for the experienced guys who did it !

1. do i have to remove the spindle 32mm nut or do i leave it in place and pry off the joint from the tranny ?

2. do i have to remove the right radius rod ! ?

3. can i do it by only removing one if the shafts if yes which one ?

4. how do i fill the oil in the tranny ! ? i know it's from the filling bolt but how ?

5. do i have to remove any of the exhause components , cross member ?


any other useful tips are welcomed so i can finish this how to !

i also need a pic of the speedometer holder @ the tranny , shift rod , torque rod !

thanx a lot guys !

MIKE

[socal3rdgen]

hey can you include a estimated time based from novice to expert.

meaning

novice - 3 days :lol

expert - 5 hours

cuz i would love to start performing work on my car but i only have one car and i would like to know if it will be down for a day or so. thanks

[anchovies]

one question
How heavy is the tranny? :D
Is it a one person job taking it off and putting it back on?

[ACCORD EX]

it's better to have another person helping from above ! but i didn't do this job on a honda before ! but people around here say that honda tranny's are light !

anybody answered the questions above ! any pictures ! pleeeeeeease !

MIKE

[ACCORD EX]

any body ! heeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp ! answer to the questions !

MIKE

[87accordlxph]

Shit!

This job looks way too complicated for me.
I need a new clutch as well, what am I gonna do? :crying:

I need somebody to come over my place and help me. :sadwave:

[Site]

This is my first clutch job - but if no one else is gonna answer the ?s, I'll give a couple of them a try.

"Is it a one person job taking it off and putting it back on?"
-I took mine off myself. I'm having one person help me put the tranny back on. I'm small and flexible, so I crawled underneath my car (supported with jackstands) and used my hands and legs to remove the transmission.

"This job looks way too complicated for me."
-It has taken me about 5 days with about 4 hrs per day. I'll finish re-connecting everything tonight. This is the first time I've done replaced my clutch. If you take your time, you can do it.

"do i have to remove the spindle 32mm nut or do i leave it in place and pry off the joint from the tranny?"
-I didn't remove the hub nuts (32mm spindle nuts). I did remove the entire steering knuckles. Then, I separated the transaxles at the inner CV boots. I pulled the remainder of the transaxle through the damper fork, which I didn't remove (from what I've read, removing it involves breaking the bolt off the bottom - I didn't want to do that).

By the way, removing the transaxles like I did makes contamination of the inner bearing assemblies a big risk. I put sandwich bags over the exposed ends.

"do i have to remove the right radius rod"
-I didn't. It wasn't necessary since I didn't remove the damper fork.

"can i do it by only removing one if the shafts if yes which one"
-Don't know - not sure what "shafts" refers to. Sorry.

"how do i fill the oil in the tranny ! ? i know it's from the filling bolt but how"
-That question has been answered several times on the board. I know you use 10w-30 motor oil.

"do i have to remove any of the exhause components , cross member"
-I removed the cross member. Didn't remove any of the exhaust components.

I'm sorry I don't have any pics. I may be able to provide them later. I hope some of this helps. Remember, this is my first clutch installation. I'm sure there are other (and better) ways to do this!

[Site]

Ok, if "shaft" refers to the cup-like thing that the transaxles mate to when you connect them to the transmission, then I have a new tip. I'm not sure how I freaking got the tranny out with the driver's side shaft still in - I shouldn't have been able to. The tranny wouldn't go back in with the driver's side shaft still connnected to the tranny (the passenger's side is no problem). I pried the shaft away from the tranny with a big screwdriver, then the tranny went in easily. I maneuvered the transmission for over an hour trying to put it back in. Then I removed the driver's side shaft (it was hitting the flywheel) and the tranny went straight in.

I'm surprised I didn't screw something up removing the tranny with the driver's side shaft in. Be sure to remove it. You'll have to pry hard - Hayne's manual says to use a small prybar.

The passenger's side shaft can stay in while removing and re-installing the transmission.

[ACCORD EX]

thanx site for replying ! i know answering all these questions is not easy !
just a small stupid question what is cross member ! ???
here is a pic if you can show me on it !
http://members.fortunecity.com/accordex87/under.jpg

another thing did you remove the lower joint , tie rod end and then you graped the knuckle so you can pry it off the tranny ?
i am almost complete with the how to with all the pics i could get !

thanx again site i really appreciate it and everybody else will too !

MIKE

[GreenMachine]

Cross member is parrallel to your down pipe, it also has the hook at the front of it.
Well I took both shafts (axles) out and therefore undid that 32mm bolt, I did not remove any exhaust or cross member or the radius arm. I figured that way was easiest fro me cause I just had the parts apart a month before so I knew there would be no problem.
I'm curious as to how you actually got the axle out of the tranny without undoing that 32mm and popping up the bottom ball joint to pull it out ?

[Cloud892dr]

When i did my clutch job for the first time it took me about 4 days with about five hours each day, but it took me longer since i had to wait 1 day for someone to help me lift the transmission back up.

[Cloud892dr]

oh i forgot, about your questions..... this is what i did:

1) i removed both spindle/axle nuts, (note: drain transmission from bottom drain plug), then i used a pry bar and separated the axles from the transmission.
2)i did not take apart the right radius rod arm, there was still just enough room to take it down, but draining the transmission would be a wise idea, i didn't and found out the hard way, lol.
3)i removed both axle shafts so neither would be in my way, but you could leave it in, your choice on this one.
4)i removed the top drain bolt on transmission facing passenger side of car, it takes about a 17mm socket, i don't have a pic, check the oil, if low use a pump or funnel to fill it, i used a funnel with some heater hose at the end of it to angle the fluid in, lol, it worked for me.
5) i did not remove any exhaust or the crossmember, it was rather easy without removing them but i did unbolt the tranny mount, the engine will drop a little but won't go nowhere, since the crossmember is still there.

**one of the hardest things for me to figure out with this job was installing the speedometer cable, i eventually figured it out, i pushed hard downwards on the cable to seat it in place, once you do, it won't be able to pop out.**

good luck!

[ACCORD EX]

thanx guys for the replies you rock !

a small question > do i have to support the engine from beneath ?
at the oil pan for example or the cross member ! ?

MIKE

[Site]

I supported the engine at the oil pan (Haynes manual says to do this). I think supporting the engine from underneath is important since you unbolt the rear motor mount. I used a jack stand with a block of wood on top to support the engine.

[ACCORD EX]

ok thanx guys , i am finishin it up !

MIKE

[AZmike]

I left the cross member in and put a few strips of wood in the gap between it and the oil pan to keep the engine from sagging very much. I undid the 14 mm bolts that attach the radius rod to the lower arm, but did not remove it. I left both axles in, but removed lower and tie rod ball joints, and the right dampener fork bolt.

This was my first clutch job and I was working on dirt and it took 2 days 7-8 hours each.

[ACCORD EX]

do i have to remove the damper fork to get the axles out ?

MIKE

[Site]

I didn't remove the damper forks. I pulled the inboard CV joints apart leaving the inboard boot attached to the driveaxles. (Umm, not a good idea, but I didn't want to remove the damper forks. I've heard that the lower bolts always break.) Then I pulled the rest of the driveshaft through the fork. If you do this, be careful so you don't damage the inboard CV boots while pulling them through the damper forks. Also, the roller bearings on the spider fall off easily and THEY WILL ruin if they get dirt in them. I put sandwich bags over the exposed ends. You don't have to remove the passenger's side inboard CV joint, you DO have to remove the driver's side inboard CV joint to get the transmission both out and back in. I pryed the inboard CV joint away from the transmission using a small prybar.

Thinking back on the job - it would have been A LOT easier to slide the driveshafts through the damper forks if I would have removed the steering knuckles. Removing the steering knuckles requires taking off the hub nuts. I highly recommend this.

Thanks to Paul for the graphic!

[ACCORD EX]

thanx site ! tah is what i wanted to know !


MIKE

[ACCORD EX]

sorry a small question ! i finall go a pic of where the speedo meter cable connects to the tranny !
there are two hoses coming out of it ! shold i remove them too when getting the tranny out !

here is pic that will be in the how to too !


http://members.fortunecity.com/accordex87/speedos.jpg


MIKE

[Cloud892dr]

yes it would be a good idea, I did, you might need something to catch the fluid that will come out of the hoses though, it will make a (pretty big mess)<------it happened to me. :(

Speedometer cable can be a little tricky.

[ACCORD EX]

ok guys thanks !

MIKE

[ACCORD EX]

i am finally finished ! just havd one question ! where do you guys put your jack stands while working under the car !
here is a pic and some parts are marked and numbered could you tell me which numbers ( spots ) or suggest another place !

http://members.fortunecity.com/accordex87/jackstands.jpg


thanx

MIKE

[Site]

I put 'em under the jacking points (not noted in your pic) that are behind the front wheel wells. That's pretty much where I always put my jackstands.

[ACCORD EX]

some people have these places all rusted out ! where else can i put them ??


MIKE

[Cloud892dr]

Same here, i always put the jack stands right behind the front wheel well.

Now if its rotted out there then i would use a spot where the jack stands don't stand a chance of sliding off the car, i would pick 1 & 2 on your picture they look like the better spots i had my jack slide off of 3 & 4 spots before, but that's my personal opinion. :beer:


Mike. D

[ACCORD EX]

are 1 & 2 strong enough ???


MIKE

[AZmike]

Originally posted by ACCORD EX
sorry a small question ! i finall go a pic of where the speedo meter cable connects to the tranny !
there are two hoses coming out of it ! shold i remove them too when getting the tranny out !

here is pic that will be in the how to too !


http://members.fortunecity.com/accordex87/speedos.jpg


MIKE

Just remove the 10 mm bolt and pull the speed sensor. You won't have any leaking fluid or speedo cables clips to mess with. Just be sure to clean around it before you pull it out--you wouldn't want any grit falling down the hole.

[ACCORD EX]

do you mean to remove the whole holder ! someone said before that it's a bitch to put it back again !

MIKE

[Site]

I removed the 2 hoses and the speedometer cable, not the holder. I didn't have any fluid leak out, but I don't have power steering.

[ACCORD EX]

i am really confused here ! is it better to remove the whole assembly or the hoses and cable ! ???

MIKE

[Site]

I'm no mechanic and I've only done 1 clutch job. So, I'd say do it the way 89LXi4dr says to do it.

I'm a lightweight when it comes to auto repair!

[ACCORD EX]

thanx site ! :super:


MIKE

[ACCORD EX]

here is how to link i posted in the technical section !


here is the thread to type in any comments !


http://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9149

MIKE