PDA

View Full Version : Fuel Pressure Regulator BAD?



pablo3264
03-26-2013, 01:40 AM
Been reading about fuel pressure regulators and how cars are hard to start when they rupture on the inside of them. I've been dealing with the same issue, car takes about 5 seconds to crank over and runs rough then smooths out after a couple seconds.

Sure enough, I pulled off the vacuum hose off the FPR and it smells of gas.

Safe to say my FPR is bad correct? Would the gasses leaking go over into the oil and spark plugs in the car as well?

2oodoor
03-26-2013, 03:45 PM
If the injectors were leaking yes. Gas in the fpr diaphragm would mean its not holding pressure at rest I would say, that would not leakdown via the injector entrance.

pablo3264
03-26-2013, 04:10 PM
If the injectors were leaking yes. Gas in the fpr diaphragm would mean its not holding pressure at rest I would say, that would not leakdown via the injector entrance.

Makes sense, thanks.

Been putting so many new parts to this car its not even funny lol.

Went ahead and ordered a new one fro about 19 bucks from amazon. A SMP one.

Legend_master
03-26-2013, 06:25 PM
When I did my swap I just took the Evap hose from the gas tank and plugged it directly to the intake manifold. It gave me the exact same problem. If the fpr does not fix it, you may tak a look at the evap system as well.

pablo3264
03-27-2013, 02:31 PM
When I did my swap I just took the Evap hose from the gas tank and plugged it directly to the intake manifold. It gave me the exact same problem. If the fpr does not fix it, you may tak a look at the evap system as well.

Yeah will do.

My evap, I think hasn't been working as it should or not at all because the thermovalve is broken and has been since I owned the car.

I already bought a new thermovalve direct from the dealership and will be installing it along with a new exhaust manifold (pacesetter), FPR, PCV valve, flushing the coolant system/replace some rad hoses, thermostat, might remove part of the intake to clean the port (not sure yet lol), new coolant temp sensor/+ sender and new Denso oxygen sensor.

I'm going to do this all in one day and have been putting it off because all the parts aren't at my home yet and still awaiting them.

Doing all this to hopefully pass smog as my temp permit/sticker is expired and car has been sitting for almost 2 weeks, I do have a ONE DAY slip so I can bring it into a smog station when I choose to do so.

And how do I retard the ignition timing? I need to try to lower my NOX levels mainly and heard that retarding the timing helps a lot.

Dr_Snooz
03-27-2013, 06:23 PM
And how do I retard the ignition timing? I need to try to lower my NOX levels mainly and heard that retarding the timing helps a lot.

They're hip to that jive bro. A timing check is part of the visual portion of the test. If you're too far off, they fail you. Unless you're only very slightly over the limit, it isn't going to work.

Getting your EGR system working is probably a better strategy. Are you getting a Check Engine Light?

pablo3264
03-27-2013, 10:02 PM
They're hip to that jive bro. A timing check is part of the visual portion of the test. If you're too far off, they fail you. Unless you're only very slightly over the limit, it isn't going to work.

Getting your EGR system working is probably a better strategy. Are you getting a Check Engine Light?

Yeah I know, they checked everything and I meand EVERYTHING when I went last time since it was a STAR station.

I heard your allowed to go at least +- 2 degrees or something like that, if it would help any at all.

And yes I'm getting a PGM-FI light all the time now and ecu is throwing a code 6 at the moment and if its not code 6 its a code 12 for EGR. I'm gonna swap out the coolant sensors as soon as I get the rest of my parts in to do it all in a single day. For the EGR, I'm lost on how to diagnose it from the black box, I've tried taking the black box apart and it seems like a pain and all the vacuum hoses in there are literally tight around all the parts inside. I already bought the original 86 service manual on Ebay and it should be here soon so I can learn how to diagnose everything. But if I do find a part not working for the EGR system via the black box, where would I buy a new part? I'm skeptical to use a junkyard part since lots of 2nd gens EGR parts are screwed up.

Dr_Snooz
03-31-2013, 07:58 PM
The manual will be all you need to get the codes squared away. I have used junkyard black box parts without trouble. Just check them as much as you can in the yard before buying. Get a warranty if they offer that.

pablo3264
04-05-2013, 04:44 PM
The manual will be all you need to get the codes squared away. I have used junkyard black box parts without trouble. Just check them as much as you can in the yard before buying. Get a warranty if they offer that.

Thanks I'll look into it then and got the manual and shows lots of troubleshooting. Manual is great was only like 10 bucks and in really good condition, wish I could somehow upload it all here somehow but that would take forever lol.

Dr_Snooz
04-06-2013, 09:22 PM
If you do end up scanning it, send it my way and we'll post it up with the '89 manual.

pablo3264
04-08-2013, 01:58 AM
If you do end up scanning it, send it my way and we'll post it up with the '89 manual.

Yeah I most likely will then since I owe 3geez a lot from the info I get from you all....

It's gonna be a PITA though!!