View Full Version : [Video] Weber idle 1983 Honda Accord
charliefowle03
05-12-2013, 01:11 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYdciewqSog&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Dr_Snooz
05-12-2013, 07:04 PM
Is that new? Cool!
2ndGenGuy
05-12-2013, 08:20 PM
Sounds good! Your engine bay looks nice and clean too! Gotta love that Weber carb!
Hazwan
05-13-2013, 05:00 AM
Gotta love how much cleaner the bay looks with that single slim fan compared to stock!
charliefowle03
05-13-2013, 06:17 AM
Gotta love how much cleaner the bay looks with that single slim fan compared to stock!
Yeah shes new, well newly installed. Believe it or not this is the Weber I found on an 89 accord in the scrapyard a year back. had it sitting around in my closet for awhile with the 3g adapter plates and never touched it till a few weeks ago. I installed some new gaskets, cleaned it up and bought the 2 g adapter plates that were shipped nearly instantaneously! I think I paid $50 or so, cant remember now for the adapter plates off of carbsunlimited.com.
I am currently tweaking around with some things to get the mix right. ive had a few hiccups but nothing crazy. I need some assistance on determining why I must literally prime my car before I start. Pumping the pedal 20 times before I turn the key is no fun, and then the idel runs to 3k for a minute till I hit the gas and it disengages. Just various things like this im trying to narrow down. But all in all very pleased the deep breaths the carb takes run through my fresh air vents, I love the sound :)
Also somewhere along the way of going berserk on vacuum hose removal, I must have clipped a wire than is responsible for the control of which direction the air comes out the vents. Near the climate control slider the buttons that you can choose where the air comes out. Currently it is stuck at coming out at the floorboard. May be something totally unrelated though to my need for speed mod!
Performance wise, with the Weber, I have significant differences. I now can reach a top speed of 96, as from 85. I don't like the feel though from 4-6k rpm, really weak. about 2000-3200 is a nice range to be in. Gas mileage has possibly improved. Still getting some data on that :) Definitely has not worsened though.
2ndGenGuy
05-13-2013, 07:46 AM
Those things you describe with the Weber are normal for how it operates. I usually give it about 8-10 pumps to start my car. The normal starting procedure for the Accord is 3-5 pumps with the stock carb. If you want to bring down the high idle, there's a screw that is hidden way up underneath the choke heater, and that's the high idle screw.
So, as far as your vents go, they are vacuum operated. So if you don't have the vacuum line hooked up that goes into the HVAC system, they won't do anything. You're going to want to make sure you hook the check valve up to it, and I think there might be a vacuum canister too, but I can't remember. I dunno if you have the factory manual, but it should be in there.
charliefowle03
05-13-2013, 07:06 PM
Those things you describe with the Weber are normal for how it operates. I usually give it about 8-10 pumps to start my car. The normal starting procedure for the Accord is 3-5 pumps with the stock carb. If you want to bring down the high idle, there's a screw that is hidden way up underneath the choke heater, and that's the high idle screw.
So, as far as your vents go, they are vacuum operated. So if you don't have the vacuum line hooked up that goes into the HVAC system, they won't do anything. You're going to want to make sure you hook the check valve up to it, and I think there might be a vacuum canister too, but I can't remember. I dunno if you have the factory manual, but it should be in there.
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charliefowle03
05-13-2013, 07:12 PM
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2ndGenGuy
05-13-2013, 07:45 PM
You should take the throttle linkage off your stock carb and put it on the Weber. I wish I had done that years ago. That little butterfly linkage is such a piece of crap. I guess it works well enough, I've been using it for years. But the stock linkage on there is just way more solid...
Nice work on that gasket. Looks like some tedious work! I think you can order new ones for a couple of bucks if you've got the money. But if that one is working, why mess with it? :)
Dr_Snooz
05-14-2013, 06:44 PM
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LOL at your FAT wallet in the frame. :rofl: If you're serious about making your own gaskets, pick up a set of gasket punches. They'll make the tiny curves a lot easier.
charliefowle03
05-15-2013, 06:40 PM
LOL at your FAT wallet in the frame. :rofl: If you're serious about making your own gaskets, pick up a set of gasket punches. They'll make the tiny curves a lot easier.
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charliefowle03
05-15-2013, 06:42 PM
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charliefowle03
05-15-2013, 06:45 PM
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2ndGenGuy
05-16-2013, 08:12 AM
Awesome! Loving the pics! Love the color of your valve cover!
charliefowle03
05-18-2013, 05:42 AM
Awesome! Loving the pics! Love the color of your valve cover!
Thank you :) A little Hazwan action! ha Its now the same color of the car. but I do love the orange. Cant think of where I picked up a rattle can of the stuff. I am doing a little project of installing some cheap little fogs and while wiring up up think im going to attend to the engine bay with some tidying. I need to get rid of some excess wiring and some miscellaneous hoses that are no longer connected.
Hazwan
05-28-2013, 05:55 AM
Haha now I know why it looks familiar :p
charliefowle03
06-03-2013, 04:51 PM
I went ahead and swapped out the throttle bracket for the stock one on the Klehien. it was a pain, well, atleast it was more work than i expected, but i think it paid off. There was some clearence issues with the linkage and the center bolt that goes through the throttle bracket was a hair to big for the klehin bracket. So i busted out some MODZ! I am still working on getting a nice calibration on the weber. Have some issues when i turn the car off some unburnt fuel wil continue to allow the engine to run, creating some mean backfires and ugly fart sounds. Hehe!:rockon: In the mean time i have slapped on some cheapo fogs that look pretty nice, justsuck mad nuts for actual functionality. Story of my life. So i may look for some replacements. I think my current project that I am putting the pieces and bits together with a Carputer are coming together.Trying to decide on a monitor that will give me some excellent clarity while driving with sunlight in the car. I really love your setup Hazwan with the dash mount housing. Where did you yoink that from??
Dr_Snooz
06-03-2013, 07:26 PM
Have some issues when i turn the car off some unburnt fuel wil continue to allow the engine to run, creating some mean backfires and ugly fart sounds.
Usually because you have the idle speed set too high.
2ndGenGuy
06-03-2013, 08:26 PM
Yeah, idle is set too high, or it's too lean. It would backfire on me more often when it was lean. Turn the idle screw in like 1/4 turn. Unless you're jetted too lean.
charliefowle03
06-04-2013, 11:54 AM
Yeah, idle is set too high, or it's too lean. It would backfire on me more often when it was lean. Turn the idle screw in like 1/4 turn. Unless you're jetted too lean.
Thank you guys for the advice. Im going to play around with the idle for now. Where do i get access to the jets? Again i pulled this off an 88 accord and slapped it directly onto my car, so i didnt play with the jets at all. As of today I have another problem arise.. check the other thread i will be posting a video and some picks. Got some brake booster issues going down!
2ndGenGuy
06-04-2013, 09:28 PM
You can get jets online. They're not exactly cheap, but they're affordable. Carbsunlimited.com is a good place.
PDXAccord79
06-05-2013, 09:15 AM
I'm working on a 79 with a Weber 32/36 on it and have started doing some jetting. Our cars look very similar which makes me think we should start a "Weber Thread" to get all these Weber issues in one place.
2ndGenGuy
06-06-2013, 02:32 PM
Yeah the EK1 in 83 made like 4-5 more hp than the 79. I'd guess that's close enough that jetting should be almost identical (maybe 1 air corrector jet off). I say you should start the EK1 Weber thread, and we all post up our jets and how the car runs and I'll sticky it. I'll add my jet sizes if I ever get my hesitation problem taken care of.
charliefowle03
06-06-2013, 03:23 PM
Yeah the EK1 in 83 made like 4-5 more hp than the 79. I'd guess that's close enough that jetting should be almost identical (maybe 1 air corrector jet off). I say you should start the EK1 Weber thread, and we all post up our jets and how the car runs and I'll sticky it. I'll add my jet sizes if I ever get my hesitation problem taken care of.
Thank you guys. I will dive into the site later this weekend. Unfortunately im pouring some money into my brake booster and power steering pump this weekend. Will give a write up on how to do the brake booster.
Re-jetting will allow me to lay down some noce and neat gasket sealant this time. Kinda rushed through it last time and left me with a mess of what looks like mustard, caked on my intake manifold. Ha yum.
charliefowle03
06-25-2013, 09:41 PM
I'm working on a 79 with a Weber 32/36 on it and have started doing some jetting. Our cars look very similar which makes me think we should start a "Weber Thread" to get all these Weber issues in one place.
I dont know squat about jets. I would love to get a thread together although there are like 49 of them thus far. i yoinked this from a scrapyard off of an 88 accord. so whatever the previous owner did i dont know. Im planning on pulling it off and cleaning it up then start from scratch. need to do some new gaskets and a better gasket sealant. Im having fuel leak everywhere!
Dr_Snooz
06-26-2013, 08:32 PM
Try this one.
CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm)
And I'll give you this one because it taught me pretty much everything I needed to know about carbs. It's really good.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/pdf/carb_owners_manual.pdf
charliefowle03
06-28-2013, 07:13 PM
This is great information Thank you!
charliefowle03
06-29-2013, 12:06 PM
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charliefowle03
06-29-2013, 12:07 PM
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charliefowle03
06-29-2013, 12:09 PM
my go at plugging the egr. there are some finished product images in the brake booster thread.. i think.
I traced the egr plate and cut some stainless steel plateing then used some liquid nail i had laying around to seal the air gaps when i tightened down the nuts.
Dr_Snooz
06-29-2013, 08:39 PM
Liquid Nails wouldn't have been my first choice. I guess it won't matter since you don't have an O2 sensor.
charliefowle03
06-30-2013, 11:26 AM
Liquid Nails wouldn't have been my first choice. I guess it won't matter since you don't have an O2 sensor.
I just need a thicker piece of steel to prevent it from flexing up when i tighten the nuts down. Most likely wont even need and psuedo gasket.
PDXAccord79
06-30-2013, 06:07 PM
Can you unscrew or remove the ERG out of it's base? If you could do that you could then tap it and put a bolt in it.
2ndGenGuy
06-30-2013, 08:29 PM
Here ya go... boom, and it even blings... Just use some RTV on it...
GM Acura AMC Honda Jeep Nissan Saturn TBI EGR Aluminum Block Off Fits Chevy LT1 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Acura-AMC-Honda-Jeep-Nissan-Saturn-TBI-EGR-Aluminum-Block-Off-Fits-Chevy-LT1-/231001397752?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c8c199f8&vxp=mtr)
charliefowle03
07-01-2013, 06:13 PM
You should take the throttle linkage off your stock carb and put it on the Weber. I wish I had done that years ago. That little butterfly linkage is such a piece of crap. I guess it works well enough, I've been using it for years. But the stock linkage on there is just way more solid...
Nice work on that gasket. Looks like some tedious work! I think you can order new ones for a couple of bucks if you've got the money. But if that one is working, why mess with it? :)
Ha! Thank you. Yous hould see them now they are all slopped up now. I have coated them with silicone gasket sealant and some liquid steel..... im going to start fresh by ordering some new ones. As far as the linkage i have since swapped on the stock linkage and i had to modify a few things that were getting in the way. but overall it works well. i had to widen the hole for the weber throttle bolt to fit through the stock linkage just ever so slightly. The linkage has some play in it front to back. i cant tighten the bolt enough because i dont have enough to catch the bolt with a socket. dont know if you know what im talking about. I still need to play with it a bit.
charliefowle03
07-10-2013, 09:32 PM
How can I get my vent control function back. The vaccum line I removed i have no idea where it came from or goes to get my vent door control back. It just blows at the floor no matter what I have all the junk still when I removed it. There is a strange hard line coming out of the firewall right under where the black control box was. Looks almost like a beake line with a weird rubber sleeve on it. is this the one I need to run a check valve to in order for the vents to work?
charliefowle03
07-14-2013, 08:23 AM
I am trying to regain control of my vents in the car after swapping the weber. Has anyone gotten into this black box before? What am i doing??
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2oodoor
07-14-2013, 12:47 PM
I actually don't have any vac contolled devices in my hvac but I have a 3 rd gen. If you do thenit has to be a nipple it puece of hose coming from the firewall area or possibly along the fender headed towards that way, could follow tge harness. Also maybe a plastic container with vac stuff that needs to be connected, that would be a reservior for vacuum. I doubt its in the black box.
PDXAccord79
07-14-2013, 02:04 PM
Reinstall everything back to normal and use a hand vacuum pump to find out where everything goes. Do you have pictures before the Weber that show where the hoses go?
charliefowle03
07-14-2013, 06:39 PM
Reinstall everything back to normal and use a hand vacuum pump to find out where everything goes. Do you have pictures before the Weber that show where the hoses go?
ROFL! OMG i could not. Id just rather die in the heat. I do see the nipple that comes out the firewall. it is the only one. Atleast to my sight. So in theory, i could pull out one of these check valves, wiring tinto the existing harness that is still hangin in my engine bay that use to plug into the black box, get a vaccum line splitter and route it in with the vaccum advance line?
2ndGenGuy
07-15-2013, 09:53 AM
You just need to run vacuum from the intake manifold to the HVAC box. There is 1 vacuum line that comes from the HVAC system in the dash. It should be the only vacuum line that comes through the firewall. Hook it up to your intake manifold (split it off your brake booster line if there are no ports on the manifold). You might need one of those vacuum canisters that holds vacuum in order for it to work right. Don't even bother going through that black box, it has nothing to do with your heating system.
charliefowle03
07-16-2013, 05:15 AM
You just need to run vacuum from the intake manifold to the HVAC box. There is 1 vacuum line that comes from the HVAC system in the dash. It should be the only vacuum line that comes through the firewall. Hook it up to your intake manifold (split it off your brake booster line if there are no ports on the manifold). You might need one of those vacuum canisters that holds vacuum in order for it to work right. Don't even bother going through that black box, it has nothing to do with your heating system.
So even rhough the button in the vehicles to change the direction are electronic the idea is that I just need to provide a vaccum to the system. The electronic components should all still be working just fine with the black box removed? I will tap into the brake booster hose and through a canister in there as well.
Hazwan
07-16-2013, 05:27 AM
The HVAC doors are operated by vacuum. The electronic buttons sends a signal to the vacuum actuators for the HVAC system so yeah you gonna need a vacuum source for it
charliefowle03
07-16-2013, 07:13 AM
The HVAC doors are operated by vacuum. The electronic buttons sends a signal to the vacuum actuators for the HVAC system so yeah you gonna need a vacuum source for it
Ok that makes sense. I was thinking that the black box contained some kind of like check valves or actuators or just something electeonicslly controlled that allowed the vaccum to be directed to the specific vent flapper door. So I will route a hose from the firewall to the booster then see if I can get that to do the trick then I will put a canister in line if thst doesn't suffice. Thanks everybody!
charliefowle03
07-18-2013, 04:06 PM
I had no success with with vacuum line. Im pretty sure im just not going to the proper line out of the firewall. Anyother suggestions, because i dont see any others? And what is this canister by the hood hindge?
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/A1iGymHuTc3a94jrufgEanajf7AvqQqJ4UXuZ-SF7vw=w667-h889-no
2ndGenGuy
07-23-2013, 03:43 PM
No, it's not a nipple, it's literally a hose that comes through the firewall right in the middle of the firewall kinda down low.
That thing on the firewall is some sort of dashpot I believe. It basically turns on or off the flow to a certain vacuum hose under certain conditions, or it does the opposite and takes vacuum and sends an electrical signal based on the vacuum going to it... cna't remember which. Might be an anti-backfire valve or whatever. I think you should pick up a manual for your car. They are like $10 on ebay.
1983 Original Honda Accord Service Shop Repair Manual 83 w Wiring Diagrams | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/1983-ORIGINAL-HONDA-ACCORD-SERVICE-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-83-W-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-OEM-/360637012892?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item53f7a41b9c&vxp=mtr)
BAM. This will help you out loads. Not that I'm saying we don't want to help or anything, but it would definitely save you the trouble of having to wait for us, and will tell you what every component is. :)
2oodoor
07-23-2013, 04:18 PM
There is usually a check valve in line for those dash vacuum deals on other cars, these may be inside the car I dunno.
That keeps vents from opening and closing when engine vacuum changes while driving.
Dr_Snooz
07-23-2013, 07:58 PM
I think that dashpot is for the AC idle boost.
2ndGenGuy
07-23-2013, 09:05 PM
I think that dashpot is for the AC idle boost.
Yeah that sounds right!
There is usually a check valve in line for those dash vacuum deals on other cars, these may be inside the car I dunno.
That keeps vents from opening and closing when engine vacuum changes while driving.
And so does that!
LazloZ28
08-25-2013, 10:47 AM
The HVAC line is just to the right of that solenoid on the firewall, actually tee'd into it. And that is the idle controller for A/C, the first hose you have circled in the pic is vent from the fuel tank.
charliefowle03
02-12-2014, 07:39 AM
I have t'd it into the weber . My only issue if holding the vacuum while the engine rpms are down bc my vents on my feet and face will only stay open if I keep the idle up
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