87 LXi Hatch Shaved Molding & Repaint

[niles]

So I have always wanted to do some bodywork but I usually ruin every metal panel I touch. Time to overcome that fear. As you all know these cars easily obtain door dings and creases in the panels if pushed too hard. My car has many door dings and matching fender dents on both rear quarter-panels. I hate seeing my car in this condition. The final straw was finding a rust hole on the rear, it is tiny but coming from the back of the panel. Oh, and the clear coat is flaking in a few spots... aaand the rock chips on the hood.

Simply put, it is time for some exterior love.

I decided to remove the molding and shave because the fender rubs also messed up the molding a little. For me that was all the excuse I needed. Have always wanted to paint, but who in their right mind will paint over rust, rock chips, and dents?

In this post I will continually update throughout the summer as the work progresses. Below is the rust hole, it's on a replaceable piece of metal that is below the tail lights, you know what I'm talking about.

[niles]

The first thing I did was rip off all the molding for some rust damage control. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the rust was minimal. But one of the rear quarter panel moldings was held on with double stick tape...

So lots of sanding and a little primer. You will want an electric sander, after sanding the molding-voids and the hood my hands got really sore.

[niles]

With all the rust removed and bare metal protected, it was time to sand it all back off again to weld in the filler metal on the molding. I did a lot of research and I am convinced that welding in metal to fill the void is the absolute best option. It will strengthen the panels as well. I read about some people using only body-filler, but my fear would be closing my door one day and the whole thing just falling out. Keep in mind to fill this void with body-filler only, it is going to be over 1/4 inch thick, and that is not recommended in any situation that I can think of.

[niles]

We used 18 Gauge galvanized steel for the filler metal. It is 2.75 inches wide, and it fits perfectly in the void, minimizing the body filler needed to finish the shave.

So after welding on the sheet metal. I learned a VERY important lesson!

The front quarter panel WILL rub on the door without modification!!

In the spot where the quarter panel is indented for the molding the edge of the door will hit it. I could have scooped the edge of the door, but I think flush will have a way better smooth and consistent look. So I cut off the indented part on the quarter panel. I tried to get a good photo showing the difference, but you own a 3Gee - go out and open your door to see what I am talking about.

[niles]

First coat of body filler is on and I now know that it is going to be really fun to shape the fender lines into the body. Normally it would just end at the molding. I get to decide how to blend the lines once it is completely filled.

This being my first time using body filler - It is nasty, sticky, smelly, and difficult to work with. Definitely use something flat and disposable to mix it on, and only use it ONCE. For the next batch you mix, use a fresh surface. Otherwise the dried chunks will mix in with your new stuff and it's like spreading goopy gravel. NOT FUN.

[derolph]

I'm doing some rust repair on my 88 LX-i coupe and have used Bondo body filler on numerous spots. I would have used body filler on the small rust holes shown in the image in your first post. Such holes can be repaired with body filler without applying filler over a 1/4 inch thick, as you mentioned. I'm not sure what you mean by the comment about thickness exceeding 1/4 inch; I guess you meant that applying filler directly over the holes might force a lot of filler through the holes, resulting in the excessive thickness. Use of metal mesh backing for the filler, usually sold at stores which sell the filler, can be very helpful in this regard. Along with the backing, spreading a thin layer of filler on wax paper and then gently pressing the wax paper over the applicable area is a useful technique. Wait and few minutes, until the filler is beginning to setup, and then simply peel the wax paper off. The filler does not stick to the wax paper. Again, this is how would have done it but I realize personal preference comes into play here and you have your reasons for welding.


This being my first time using body filler - It is nasty, sticky, smelly, and difficult to work with. Definitely use something flat and disposable to mix it on, and only use it ONCE. For the next batch you mix, use a fresh surface. Otherwise the dried chunks will mix in with your new stuff and it's like spreading goopy gravel. NOT FUN.I use the inside of the plastic lid that come on the Bonda filler can. Using a metal scraper blade, I scape out the excess left after working with a mixed batch and then re-use the lid over and over. So, there is no problem with dried chunks getting mixed in the next batch.

Sanding filler smooth on intricately contoured surfaces can be a real challenge. Although tools such as standard sanding blocks may not be usable in those situations, you still need to device some way, other than holding sandpaper directly in your hands, to do the sanding. Simply holding sandpaper in your hands and getting good results is generally not feasible, I've found. If you try that, it may look smooth when just looking at the sanded filler but any unevenness will be clearly visible when a glossy paint is applied.

Are you planning to repaint the whole car just touch-up some areas? If the latter, are you going to try using spray paints sold in auto parts stores or get the paint elsewhere?

[niles]

Thanks for the advice derolph, it is greatly appreciated! I will use the lid if I have to apply more bondo. I did the second coat last night, and hopefully it is the last lol.

I should have clarified, the I don't think filling in the entire molding void with bondo would be a good idea, as the pure bondo would be around 1/4 inch thick. I have read of people doing it, so it must work to some degree. My goal is to do this once, and metal welded in is the most permanent.

I thought about filling the rust holes too. The problem I have with that is the panel is rusting from the back of the panel to the front, so eventually the whole panel will fall apart. But this piece is a bolt on and can be easily taken off a junker. So I would rather do that.

I am repainting the whole car. I would never be able to match the antique silver color in my garage.

[derolph]

I am repainting the whole car. I would never be able to match the antique silver color in my garage.Yeah, I tried matching with sprays paints available in auto parts stores and I agree it's just not possible to get a good match. Have you ever painted a whole car? Do you have your own sprayer? I'd like to paint mine too. I'm thinking I might first do a small panel, such as the strip below the tail light or a bumper molding, as a test.

Were you able to get your side moldings off without breaking the fasteners that hold them on? If not, have you found a source for replacement of the broken fasteners?

[niles]

I am going to buy a sprayer and painting the whole car will be a first for me was well ;)

Haven't decided on how exactly I want to paint it. I was thinking about trying the plastidip.

Some of the clips broke when removing the molding or were already broken. Some are intact but the plastic is very brittle from age. I am planning on letting the remaining clips and all the molding to go to a good home when I get around to it.

[derolph]

Well, I now realize I misunderstood what you want to accomplish. Guess I wasn't paying enough attention to the photos you posted. Now, I understand you're going to completely eliminate the side moldings and modify the doors where the moldings fit to be flat and flush with the rest of the door surface. And, I agree filling in all that molding recession with body filler would not be a good idea.

[niles]

No worries. I am happy to be able to get a complete set of molding to someone in need.

[2oodoor]

I prefer preping them and painting with the same paint as the car, it has an updated look. If you are worrid about it being plastic then you can use an additive in the paint.

[derolph]

Can you look at 25 x Honda Accord Acura CL Door Body Side Molding Clip Retainer Fastener Clips | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-x-Honda-Accord-Acura-CL-Door-Body-Side-Molding-Clip-Retainer-Fastener-Clips/310672982332?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D261%26meid%3D7824498676564862161%26pid%3D10 0005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D310644261469%26) and tell me whether the molding clips there look like they would work on a 3rd gen Accord?

[Dr_Snooz]

You've probably already thought of it, but I got a lot of dings out of my car by removing the interior panels and pushing them out with my thumbs.

Looks like a fun project. Good luck and keep posting more pics!

[niles]

Can you look at 25 x Honda Accord Acura CL Door Body Side Molding Clip Retainer Fastener Clips | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-x-Honda-Accord-Acura-CL-Door-Body-Side-Molding-Clip-Retainer-Fastener-Clips/310672982332?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D261%26meid%3D7824498676564862161%26pid%3D10 0005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D310644261469%26) and tell me whether the molding clips there look like they would work on a 3rd gen Accord?

I don't think those are quite right derolph. The shape matches the clip part but mine are made different. I have not seen other models/years though. Other Hondas might use a different mount on the molding. My clips hold the molding by a lip on the top and bottom.

[niles]

You've probably already thought of it, but I got a lot of dings out of my car by removing the interior panels and pushing them out with my thumbs.

Looks like a fun project. Good luck and keep posting more pics!

Thanks Dr_Snooz, I was going to use that method but the larger dents from other cars rubbing on my fenders left creases in the metal and damaged the molding. I didn't think I could make that go away.

[derolph]

I don't think those are quite right derolph. The shape matches the clip part but mine are made different. I have not seen other models/years though. Other Hondas might use a different mount on the molding. My clips hold the molding by a lip on the top and bottom.Hmm, your clips look different than the ones on my 88 LX-i coupe. I would have guessed they were the same. Anyway, thanks for taking time to post that photo.

I think I might take a chance on the ones on eBay. If they won't fit, I might list them on eBay to recoup a few dollars. I may have to use tape or adhesive to attach the one panel I need to reattach. It's the rear panel (in front of wheel well) on the right side.

[niles]

That's funny derolph, that is the exact panel that was held on with double stick tape on my car

[niles]

So the body filler is coming along swell. I have some areas to fill in still but overall I am quite happy with how it is turning out. In the picture there is a lot of filler on the lower panel because that is one of the bigger dents that was an eyesore. You can also see the fender curve starting to take shape. I will put a little extra filler on there too so I can get a nicely defined line.

[Dr_Snooz]

Thanks Dr_Snooz, I was going to use that method but the larger dents from other cars rubbing on my fenders left creases in the metal and damaged the molding. I didn't think I could make that go away.

Yeah, it sounded like you had a much bigger project than just a few dings, but I thought I'd throw the idea out there just in case.

[niles]

Yeah Dr, it really is all door dings minus two dents.

And something they don't tell you about bondo for all you people that live in the Northwest or any cold wet climates: it can take a really long time to cure if it is cold and raining out (don't worry I was in my garage lol). I don't know about weather that well but it's got something to do with practically being INSIDE a cloud...

Last coat of filler went on last night, going to sand after work today. Cant wait to get primer on it, my wife is not happy, our only car has been decommissioned for a week almost.

[Dr_Snooz]

And something they don't tell you about bondo for all you people that live in the Northwest or any cold wet climates: it can take a really long time to cure if it is cold and raining out

You might consider using more activator/catalyst when you mix it.

[niles]

You might consider using more activator/catalyst when you mix it.

I totally should've, the weather was a lot more wet when I did the third coat, and I used less hardener than before. The first two times was drying before I was done. In a nutshell - bondo is tricky stuff lol

But the filler is done and so is the glaze and primer. I am feeling quite satisfied at the moment :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

Pics probably tomorrow...

[lostforawhile]

if you dont want the little pieces of side trim I can use them, I know I still have the big door pieces,things get lost when trim has been off for years, 3M now makes some kind of adhesive for putting that type of trim back on without clips, it looks like tape, but it's really not, once it's on they wont come back off, they developed it for people restoring cars,where the original clips couldn't be found

[niles]

if you dont want the little pieces of side trim I can use them, I know I still have the big door pieces,things get lost when trim has been off for years, 3M now makes some kind of adhesive for putting that type of trim back on without clips, it looks like tape, but it's really not, once it's on they wont come back off, they developed it for people restoring cars,where the original clips couldn't be found

Consider them yours losforawhile. The right rear piece is not perfect from being fender rubbed but I will PM pictures to you.

[niles]

So the rest of the molding shave went pretty quick after the bondo cured :D

I put on a thin coat of glaze to smooth things out. I will probably revisit the crucial areas like the wheel wells and the panel edges to get them looking as good as possible, since that is what my eyes immediately gravitate to when looking at it.

With the primer still wet I could look down the panel and it looks smother that I thought it was gonna be. Probably thanks to the 1/4 sheet sander I bought and taking my time sanding down.

[niles]

Found some rear mudflaps at the parts yard while looking for some brackets for bullard123. Pretty psyched - turns out the rear flaps seem to fit on all 3Gee bumpers. I have not researched it, but I have an 87 hatch, pulled the flaps from an 88 hatch and they were identical to the flaps on a sedan that I saw at the yard as well.

[Civic Accord Honda]

That came out looking great you did a fantastic job. And yeah bondo is a bitch until you get used to it

[niles]

That came out looking great you did a fantastic job. And yeah bondo is a bitch until you get used to it

Thanks Civic Accord Honda! It was a hard weeks worth of work. After edging up a few spots, the fun begins: Picking a color scheme!!

[derolph]

Would like to see a few full pics of the car when you've got this all done. Curious to see how it looks with this appearance modification.

[niles]

Would like to see a few full pics of the car when you've got this all done. Curious to see how it looks with this appearance modification.

Absolutely! I will continue to post pictures but probably won't take any glamor shots until the paint is on. Right now it's not too photogenic on account of the primer contrast.

[Dr_Snooz]

Looking good!

[lostforawhile]

Found some rear mudflaps at the parts yard while looking for some brackets for bullard123. Pretty psyched - turns out the rear flaps seem to fit on all 3Gee bumpers. I have not researched it, but I have an 87 hatch, pulled the flaps from an 88 hatch and they were identical to the flaps on a sedan that I saw at the yard as well.

you found rear mudflaps? i have yet to see a rear mudflap for a hatch, the bumpers are different then any of the other models

[Legend_master]

you found rear mudflaps? i have yet to see a rear mudflap for a hatch, the bumpers are different then any of the other models

I've got rear mudflaps on my hatch.

[niles]

I haven't mounted the rear flaps yet (did a rust treatment on them), I will mount them today after work. I was surprised because I have rarely seen hatches with flaps. After I mount them up and it all goes well, I will probably return to the yard and pull all the flaps to list on the Trading Post because I know there are people out there looking for them.

[gp02a0083]

i've got rear mudflaps on my hatch.

x2

[niles]

So the mud flaps I ended up grabbing off another car are a little more than half an inch longer than my bumper but the holes line up. I must've pulled them off of a sedan or something.

I thought that 88 and up had a different bumper style. I know the front bumper changed for sure. I like the 88+ more anyway, maybe I will grab some bumpers next time I'm at the parts yard.

Looks like 87, 88, and 89 all had the same rear bumper...

OEM Part # Front
87 LXi Hatch = 71101-SE4-A10ZZ
88 LXi Hatch = 71101-SE0-940ZZ
89 LXi Hatch = 71101-SE0-940ZZ

OEM Part # Rear
87 LXi Hatch = 71501-SE0-941ZZ
88 LXi Hatch = 71501-SE0-941ZZ
89 LXi Hatch = 71501-SE0-941ZZ

And it looks like they are interchangeable, the 88 and 89 front bumper part number is no longer available and replaced by the 87 part number. And rock auto has the same part numbers for all three years. Damn, they only want $40 for the brand new front bumper too - too bad shipping is over $100.

[niles]

So mini-update...

I got a Xenon body kit that I will putting on this weekend. Thanks Maka_RTH!

After that I will do a little more detailing and then paint!

[niles]

Also, I know it has been stated on here before but saying it again never hurts -

About the Xenon bodykit fitting on the hatchback (mine is an 87 LXi):

Side Skirts - :thumbup:
Fit Perfectly

Front Bumper Cover - :ugh2:
Fits Facelift Bumper that comes on 88/89 accords. The 86/87 has a pre-facelift bumper and the turn signals don't perfectly line up. Some body work will need to be done if you want it to be seamless. Or get a 88/89 bumper, they bolt right on the 86/87 with no problem from what I read.

Rear Bumper Cover - :thumbdn:
Does not fit a hatchback. The hatch bumper is about 2 inches shorter on the sides than other accords and Xenon bumper cover needs to be modified to fit. I am quite excited to try out this plastic welding technique used by auto repair shops.

Can't wait to get my hands dirty!

[niles]

Here's some pictures :)

Thanks again maka_RTH for the bodykit! Xenon kits are real high quality. And it will fit well once I get the 88 front bumper put on, picked it up today.

Side skirt mock-up. I think it will look real sleek with the shaved molding.

Turn signal example. The 87 is smaller and further out than the 88. Also the middle part where the license plate is attached on the 87 is taller than the 88.

This is the forest green pearl that I am using for the undercoat. Topcoat will be blue ghost pearl.

Sorry for the small pictures. I am saving my picture space for when the car is finished.

[niles]

Body Kit is on! Vid: Xenon body kit & shaved molding - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Ew065-OKhQ)

[Dr_Snooz]

That is a very clean install. Looks really good.

[niles]

I had to cut almost 4 inches off the back bumper cover to get it to fit. Polyurethane is a little tricky to work with... if you pause the video at 0:14 you can see the seam, I still have to pretty it up a little

[niles]

Sunday I painted my car with plastidip. It turned out AMAZING! I spent a lot of hours on getting the right colors/mixtures. I bought thick standard plastidip and thinned it myself 50/50 with Xylene because it saves a lot of money. I bought my pigments from paintwithpearl.com (strongly reccomended)

Here is what I did...

First:
1) Added ~4 fluid ounces of Jet Black Metal Flake to 1 Gallon of Xylene. Added about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of Blue Ghost Pear to give what I call "Midnight Blue" effect. Looked so cool I almost stopped there when painting lol.
2) Heavily blended with a drill mixer
3) Mixed in 1 Gallon of standard UN-thinned plastidip (looked like rubber cement)
4) Heavily blended with a drill mixer

[niles]

The 2 Gallons of basecoat got 6 coats of this color on my car and looked amazing. I regretfully proceeded with the rest of the job...

Second:
1) Added 2 Gallons of plastidip Glossifier. It is pre-thinned from the factory.
2) Added the entire 25 gram bag of Forest Green Candy Pearl
3) Heavily blended with a drill mixer.
4) Added about 1/3 to 1/2 quart of thinner to eliminate "spider web" problem with the sprayer

This also got 6 coats. Be careful with the Glossifier it is almost like water and drips show VERY well due to the pearl. (ask me how I know)

Try to peel the masking while the dip is still wet if you are thinking of doing this to your car.

[niles]

PICTURES!
A shot of the midnight blue, barely has a blue hue. I wish the sun was out when I took this pic so you could see the flake better. But dont worry, the flake makes the forest green pop like crazy. Almost looks like frost.

I will take some glamour shots soon...

[A18A]

i love the xenon kit on these cars <3

[bullard123]

Wow not bad niles! Props to you for doing all the work yourself. The shave came out clean. Is that color Monterrey green? Oh and thanks again for my brackets!

[niles]

Glad the brackets worked out! The color is forest green pearl from paintwithpearl.com

Next on the list, WHEELS!

Here are some photobuckets:

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/NilesHenke/Honda/DSC_4207_zps2732f3e5.jpg

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/NilesHenke/Honda/DSC_4204_zps9d01f696.jpg

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/NilesHenke/Honda/DSC_4201_zps194a07c2.jpg

http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/NilesHenke/Honda/DSC_4195_zps80e69bfa.jpg

And a before-shot. Reminds me of a car from Road Warrior lol
http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a607/NilesHenke/Honda/DSC_4169_zps989df73d.jpg

[stat1K]

man this is the first time looking at this. looks super good. shaving moldings isn't really my thing but overall i do like the car :thumbsup:

[89HatchbackLxi]

Nice Job! Looks good. Almost kinda has a CRX look to it after the trim is shaved off.