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View Full Version : No start...suspecting starter is the cause



1989accordaz
06-02-2013, 09:53 AM
Sometimes when trying to start, all I would hear was a click, after several tries, it would start right up.

This morning, it tries to start it, but the engine cranks for no more than a second then I can hear the starter just spin.

It has a brand new battery and fuel pump.

Haven't replaced the starter in the car since I got it about 15 years ago...

Any pointers just let me know, but it seems pretty straight forward removing it...

lostforawhile
06-02-2013, 10:33 AM
if it's original, take it to a rebuild shop and have it rebuilt, the cheap chinese built ones out there arent worth the money

1989accordaz
06-02-2013, 11:47 AM
Well, I took the starter out to get it tested and it passed...I am going to replace my ground wires and positive wires since they are corroded, and have broken strands. Then reinstall the starter and give it another shot. I looked at the fly wheel for possible missing teeth but they look OK.

Hauntd ca3
06-02-2013, 12:46 PM
the clicking could be either the solenoid contacts are worn out or its just about out of brushes.
the cranking then not but starter till spinning sounds like the bendix is stuffed.
either way, take it to an AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL ENGINEER to be looked at and repaired properly instead of some parts warehouse that will just stick a battery on it, make it spin and say its good.

2oodoor
06-02-2013, 01:38 PM
Mines starting to do this but I think mine is actually the ignition switch contacts...the engine seems to kick back a little because the starter disenguages so quickly upon trying a start up. Battery and ground connections will be checked first though, then solenoid connection.

1989accordaz
06-02-2013, 02:33 PM
OK, ground cables replaced and cable to starter replaced as well. Same thing. Engine turns just for a second...then starter disengages and spins...I just don't trust that bench test, I am buying a new one right now.

1989accordaz
06-02-2013, 05:21 PM
Fixed!

Decided to replace the whole unit since it is my daily driver. The symptoms were for a few months, that it would just click when trying to start it, it would take a few tries then it would start, I knew that sooner than later I would be needing to a) repair it or b) replace it.

lostforawhile, I know that a reman will not last long, just couldn't afford to wait.

Hauntd ca3, The shops that test this starters, alternators etc. sometimes they pass when they are not under the stress of the vehicle, in the case of the starter, trying to spin the flywheel and turn the engine. When on the bench, it would "look"
as if everything was ok, on the car was a totally different story.

So I just went with my best educated guess.

Not difficult to replace, two bolts. One is the upper mount next to the solenoid, clearly visible, and the second one is the lower mount not visible at all to the bottom-left of the starter. Both 14mm I believe.

Thanks all for the help.

Hauntd ca3
06-02-2013, 07:05 PM
unless a shop can do a stall test on a starter, i wouldnt trust them.
couple quick tips on a dud starter diagnosis if you have ruled out a dead battery
if the starter clicks, its either solenoid or brushes
if it cranks slowly at first and then starts to get faster, the brushes are worn. do not let a starter do this for long or it will melt bars on the armature.
if the starter sounds like its spinning nice a quickly but the motor aint turning, the bendix is the likely cause.
if it sounds harsh in engagement, the ring gear on the flywheel is prob worn. can also give similar symptoms to a slipping bendix, as in the motor will turn a bit then stop because the ring gear gets to a very worn part and the starter can not drive the motor. tends to happen in very high mileage cars
if you turn the key and it takes a second or 2 to start cranking, prob out of brushes.
if you turn the key and nothing happens, but cranks while turning the key backwards a bit, ignition switch is prob stuffed.
i'm an auto sparky and starting and charging faults are my bread and butter.
on cars like our hondas, i can do a complete starter over haul from start to finish in an hour or not much more.

Dr_Snooz
06-03-2013, 07:42 PM
either way, take it to an AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRICAL ENGINEER to be looked at and repaired properly instead of some parts warehouse that will just stick a battery on it, make it spin and say its good.


if it's original, take it to a rebuild shop and have it rebuilt, the cheap chinese built ones out there arent worth the money

I'll reiterate this. It's nearly impossible to get a rebuilt starter or alternator that works for any length of time now. Some of these units are even catching fire. Assuming you can get the parts, it's much better to rebuild it yourself.

lostforawhile
06-03-2013, 11:20 PM
I'll reiterate this. It's nearly impossible to get a rebuilt starter or alternator that works for any length of time now. Some of these units are even catching fire. Assuming you can get the parts, it's much better to rebuild it yourself.

he probably turned it in for the ten dollar core, I'm still looking for an OEM starter and alternator, working or not, We have a good rebuild shop here, not as good as Moultrie Alternator service, who was in business for 60 years, but good enough, we bought a rebuilt starter from them after the o reilies one failed for the third time, it's still fine, I'm not sure of the brand it was, but a lot of local mechanics here have said to get that brand from them, you know they dont want to have to replace it for free several times under warranty

Hauntd ca3
06-03-2013, 11:59 PM
I'll reiterate this. It's nearly impossible to get a rebuilt starter or alternator that works for any length of time now. Some of these units are even catching fire. Assuming you can get the parts, it's much better to rebuild it yourself.

about the only thing that will let you down getting an auto sparky to rebuild a unit is the quality of the brush set, if the original fault was diagnosed early enough.
of the several thousand starters and altenators i've rebuilt, i've only had a couple starters and maybe half a dozen alts come back for warranty .
and of those, poor quality brush sets were the main cause in the majority of cases.

1989accordaz
06-05-2013, 03:52 PM
20 dls core charge, decided to keep the starter and take it to a shop to get it rebuilt, or do it myself once I do some research. Once repaired, I'll put it back in the car and take the new one out and keep it as a back up for an emergency. I have made the mistake in buying reman alternators just to have them replaced every two or three years because that is how long they last. Free replacement sure, but the cost of the tow and time lost installing it, sure isn't free.

Lesson learned.

lostforawhile
06-05-2013, 06:22 PM
20 dls core charge, decided to keep the starter and take it to a shop to get it rebuilt, or do it myself once I do some research. Once repaired, I'll put it back in the car and take the new one out and keep it as a back up for an emergency. I have made the mistake in buying reman alternators just to have them replaced every two or three years because that is how long they last. Free replacement sure, but the cost of the tow and time lost installing it, sure isn't free.

Lesson learned.when you rebuild it, if you have trouble getting bendix parts, you might be able to find an OEM one at the yard and use it for parts and pieces, normally the only thing on these to fail are the brushes and contacts in the solenoid. often the contacts can be burnished back up and work fine again