89 Accord LX "hobby" car from Central Florida...

[ItsaHonda]

I just picked up an 89 Accord LX with 177k miles Sunday night and had to drive it over 2 hours home (in a severe thunderstorm, I might add)... talk about nervous. But, in typical old Honda fashion, it made it! I also own a 1990 Accord LX coupe with 115k miles that was a 1 elderly owner car that was sold with 78k miles by the son after the woman passed away. I love my 90, I've always been a huge fan of the 4th gens and she's been quite a cream puff. I was always fond of the 3rd gens, too, but had never come across one. In the last 11 years I have owned a 1981 Honda Civic wagon (also a show room new condition car with 69k miles), a 1983 Accord SE, 1993 Accord 10th Anniversary, 1993 Honda Prelude Si, 1996 Honda Accord EX (this was my primary daily driver while I was turning over the others... put 200k miles on this car), 2006 Honda Accord EXL and a 2007 Accord EXL. I recently sold the 07 and bought the 90. The 7th gens are nice, but just not the same. I loved and missed the way the old Hondas looked, felt and drove. I have decided to rescue a couple old Hondas and restore them back to like new condition.

I came across the 89 as it was being sold by some neighbors of a friend of mine who own a horse ranch way out in the country. The car had apparently sat in a barn for a long time needing a new carb, the owner finally decided to fix it and sell it. The car was a mess... but it cleaned up decently. It's pretty rough in some areas, has a lot of cancer around the rear wheel wells and bottom corner of the rear doors and rocker panels. There is also a little rust behind the side black molding on the doors. The under carriage looks solid, though, and there doesn't appear to be any rust anywhere else on the car. I'm hoping the rear wheel well rust can be repaired?

The car has a new carburetor, fuel pump, alternator, recent tune-up, new timing belt and motor mounts... but it still needs a bit more. It has 2 massive fluid leaks, I'm thinking probably oil that seem to just pour from either side of the car... I have 2 trails of oil that come from the street and into the driveway underneath the engine area and then 2 large puddles. I can't imagine that it leaked like that on the drive home... there wouldn't have been any fluid left looong before I got home! The PS pump might be going bad as the PS intermittently goes out as you're turning the wheel. The suspension is shot and something feels loose up front through the steering wheel. It could use a fresh coat of paint once all of the rust is fixed.

Now for the good... the engine runs like a top, starts right up and idles on it's own with no problems, even when cold. The engine temp stays normal, It does not smoke, the transmission shifts accurately and is very smooth (smoother than my 90), cruise controls works, both power headlight motors work, all 4 power windows work as well as all of the dash lights at night, all glass is like-new in clarity and the interior is in great shape...just needs some good shampoo job to be perfect.

I'll be spending a lot of time here as I fix up the car and will be posting updates as they come along. This is my 1st 3rd gen, so I'll have many questions I am sure. I will try and offer input on other Honda models that I am more familiar with in return.

[ItsaHonda]

I am now thinking that the leaks are coming from my rack, I think it's done for... that sounds expensive. I checked the coolant today as well, rusty brown... inside of the radiator is orange/brown. Whew, I got my work cut out for me... this thing is going to be a piece of work. I did take it for a spin today, though...and it's running along nicely. I get a little hesitation when I first take off, but my carbureted 83 SE used to do that, too.

Here are some pictures of it...

Driving home:
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See the 2 trails of fluid leading underneath the front of the car? Does that look like a steering rack leak to you guys??

[Dr_Snooz]

Welcome! Always glad to have another restorer on board. For the leaks, poke your head under the car and see if the rack boots are torn and oily. If they are, then yes, the rack is done, mostly likely because somebody put the wrong oil in it. They aren't especially expensive, but can be challenging to change out.

For the suspension, check your upper control arms first. They tend to wear out quickly and can make driving very unnerving when they do.

Your car looks surprisingly good, given its history. I can't wait to see your build thread.

[ItsaHonda]

Thanks for the welcome and tips Dr_Snooz. The car is in pretty good shape except for the rot around the rear wheel wells and rear quarter panel... but the rest of it is not bad at all. I've been cleaning it everyday after work... I still need to take the seats out and try to really tackle the carpet this weekend when I can spend all day on it (weather permitting). I also haven't made it to the trunk yet... that will be an all day cleaning project, lol. Eventually the car will be a "cream puff" and the image I have of it after it is completed will keep me motivated (as do seeing the other member's rides on here!). I love your coupe... funny thing is that I really prefer 4th gen sedans and 3rd gen coupes.

My plans for it are to fix all of the rust, repaint original color, add factory (or factory-like) rear spoiler with LED light strip, factory style dual exhaust tip muffler, tint the windows, add window visors (snatched these off of CB7tuner.com), fog lights, clear headlights, Integra GSR rims, Civic Si rims or Honda fit rims, tint the amber section of the tail lights, full LED light conversion, Honda Prelude steering wheel, new speakers and stereo. I might have it lowered just a little, but nothing like a slam or anything.

Mechanically wise I just plan to take care of all of the leaks and any needed repairs/maintenance.

I'll also be dressing up the 90, so I'll go back and forth between the both cars which means slower progress, but I am VERY impatient... my projects get done in a timely manner.

[derolph]

I'll also be dressing up the 90, so I'll go back and forth between the both cars which means slower progress, but I am VERY impatient... my projects get done in a timely manner.Welcome from Ohio. I can relate to your situation. I have an 88 LX-I coupe and a 91 Accord sedan and they both have serious rust issues I want to resolve. And, oddly, the rust damage is quite different between them. With the 91, the underlying support structure that supports the bumper molding on the sides had deteriorated so bad on the right side that it no longer supported the molding and the molding droops down on that side; this is not uncommon on 4th gen Accords.

With the 88, I wish I had removed the black rubber (or whatever) strips on the rims of the wheel well years ago. It would have exposed rust issues at an earlier stage. Those strips trap moisture and contribute to rust.

[ItsaHonda]

I tackled the trunk today after work... just ripped everything completely out and scrubbed it down with water and A-Jax. It was nasty. The carpet and trunk board weren't savable... nor was the spare tire. The trunk is completely gutted, but it's clean. Everywhere I looked I found more little patches of rust... but I was glad to see that the trunk floor itself was solid with no rust. I found rust behind the rear quarter panels (behind the side plastic panels inside the trunk), a little rust around the license plate lights (I even took these off and cleaned them!) and underneath the car behind the rear bumper... full of rust. I didn't see any rust on the frame or the floorboards, though... the whole underneath of the car seems to coated in this black tar type substance.

I gave the engine a good little cleaning, as well. Tomorrow I will attack the interior again for round 2... this time being much more in depth (seats coming out, etc.) I will start a new thread with pictures and continued updates.

As for the leaks, the underneath of the car is an oily mess... hard to tell what all is leaking and where it is coming from... so I'll have to have it put on a lift and looked at. It hasn't leaked like it did that first night when it left those two large trails of fluid on both sides of the car and a large puddle as I was pulling into the parking space. There is still plenty of PS fluid in the reservoir.

[derolph]

If you still have the old trunk board and it's at least got the normal shape if laid on a floor or flat surface, you could use it as a template for cutting a board out of plywood. I did this will my Accord. Actually, I tried finding a board at a salvage yard and did find one but it was in very poor condition; as I recall, I only paid $2 for it. But, it was really not usable. I had part of a 4x8 piece of plywood in my garage and decided to use the trunk board I got at the salvage yard to mark a border on the plywood as a cutting guide. Then, I used a jigsaw to cut it. This was 1/4" plywood, so it was about the same thickness as the original board. If you notice any dampness or wetness in the trunk after driving in rain or after the car is simply parked outside during rain, that dampness could cause mold on the plywood, at least on regular (untreated) plywood. I put a coating of polyurethane on my plywood panel.

[Dr_Snooz]

It hasn't leaked like it did that first night when it left those two large trails of fluid on both sides of the car and a large puddle as I was pulling into the parking space. There is still plenty of PS fluid in the reservoir.

If it sat for a long time, the seals could have gotten dry and leaky. Cross your fingers. You might yet dodge a bullet.

[ItsaHonda]

I actually did that with the 90... but I was able to save the carpet as it wasn't that bad, so the carpet covers the plywood. I cut out the carpet in the 89 (I only left the section behind the rear seat), so I'll have to get some new carpet as well... but I'll go ahead and save the trunk board for the pattern, good tip!

I doubt I'll find a good trunk board at the salvage yard... every older Honda I've had has had a leaky trunk, this seems to be their achilles' heel. My 90 was kept in a garage most of it's life and it still leaks a little. I need to find out where they are leaking from and try to resolve it on these 2 cars if I can. I remember reading on one of the other Honda forums some time ago that the tail lights are culprit...but that was in regards to the 4th gens.

[Vanilla Sky]

You're down in Orlando, right? I'm up in Palatka, and I have a car we can cut the patch panels out of. I have a steering rack, too, if that ends up being your issue. Mine all need rebuilds, but it's not terribly hard if you can get the seals for them.

My car's trunk board is all nasty, too. When I get around to it, I'll trace the pattern onto some marine plywood for a nice, solid floor and build a hinged hatch for access to the spare tire well.

[derolph]

I need to find out where they are leaking from and try to resolve it on these 2 cars if I can. I remember reading on one of the other Honda forums some time ago that the tail lights are culprit...but that was in regards to the 4th gens.With my 88 Accord, I found a small rust hole under the trunk lid weatherstrip; this was on the upper left side of the trunk. First, I noticed a very small rust spot along the weatherstrip. By pushing it back or lifting the bottom lip of the weatherstrip up with a dull knife or screwdriver, I saw a small hole rusted through the metal. I was able to patch the hole without actually removing the weatherstrip from any part the trunk rim.

I suspect the rust hole was caused by water getting into the weatherstrip through several small tears in the weatherstrip in the vicinity of where the rust hole was. I'd like patch those tears but haven't yet identified a product for such purpose. I've thought about just putting some electrical tape over them but I suspect the tape won't hold and stay put when exposed to temperature and weather extremes.

To identify where water is entering your trunk, you might put some Non-Adhesive Craft Masking Paper (http://www.lowes.com/pd_113554-968-12618FF_0__?storeNumber=2852&Ntt=masking+paper&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce. storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%4014561456%5D&pl=1&productId=3076711&ipTrail=71.53.42.2&currentURL=%3FNtt%3Dmasking%2Bpaper) or some other covering on the floor to help locate the leak. With the trunk dry, let the car sit outside during a rainy spell and inspect the trunk soon afterward to see where the water seems to be entering. Alternatively, just take a water hose and simulate rain exposure.

With my '91 Accord, I have an entirely different water problem in the trunk. I discovered water on the trunk floor, not wetness of carpet. I soon realized I had rust holes in the trunk floor at the sides of the trunk (behind wheel wells) and water was getting slung up into the trunk when driving on wet roads. To see the actual damage from inside the trunk, I had to remove the trunk side liners on both sides.

[ItsaHonda]

You're down in Orlando, right?

I live within 10 minutes of the Orlando International Airport... on what used to be the old McCoy AFB years ago. You're not too far away, probably about an hour and a half away.

Here are some pictures of the engine bay and trunk (I really need to remember to take before pics!):

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[Dr_Snooz]

Barring rust, the taillight gaskets are known to deteriorate and let water in. Condensation in the taillights is double confirmation of this. I replaced them once to the tune of $15 each from the dealer. They started leaking again after a few years. The next time I bought a tube of silicone for $6 and there have been no leaks since. Admittedly, the tails are now glued to the body, but it's so rare that I need to remove them that I took the chance. I can always cut the silicone if I have to.

[ItsaHonda]

I do notice some condensation in the outer tail light on the driver's side... but I had planned on buying new tail lights when the car gets repainted anyway. I'll likely silicone the new set. I'd really like to have the red and clear tails... but it's a real bummer that they only make the outer pieces... how dumb is that. Doesn't anyone realize there is a trunk piece too? The 90+ years get both pieces. I know there is a website on how to clear them yourself... I might tackle this on the old set for trial and error and see how well it comes out.

I finally finished up the interior today... it's as clean as it's going to get, and it came out quite nice. The interior is nearly perfect in this car. I did find some interesting things under the seats (about $2 in coins, pack of cheese crackers, various receipts, etc.). I shampood the carpets and seats and went wild with the Febreeze, Windex and Armor All. I was amazed at how much sand I had to dump out of my Shop Vac. I took a can of computer duster along with Q-tips and cleaned out the AC vents and the various crevices on the dash. Inside now looks new and smells pretty.

The car was pretty well preserved underneath all that dirt and grime... I'm really impressed with how nicely it has cleaned up. All it needs is the rust taken care of and a fresh coat of paint to look show room new... and the original paint is still really nice on most of the car, it's just dull along the top of the doors, roof and trunk lid. I'll post some interior pictures tomorrow after work.

[Dr_Snooz]

I use a paint brush for the crevices. It seems to work well for my purposes.

If the clear coat is whole, you may be able to buff it out and keep the factory paint.

[Vanilla Sky]

I do quite a bit of body and paint work on the side, so I might have a hookup for paint. My private 3geez junkyard has plenty of patch panels in it, too.

As someone that does paint and body work, silicone is one of the last things you want to use. It tends to keep water right around the seal, promoting rust. The gaskets are flat, and you can get that foam at many craft stores in different thicknesses.