No start issue!!!

[2ndGenGuy]

Okay, so 89 LXi (build thread can be seen here: http://www.3geez.com/forum/sanctioned-racing/84877-24-hours-lemons-race-car-build.html.

Has been running great but never warmed up. Drove it down the street and back, got to full operating temp for the first time since I put the new head on... Ran awesome the whole time, pulled it in the garage and shut it off (used the battery kill switch). Now it won't start.

I've never worked on a fuel injected 3g before. I checked all the fuses. The fuse for the injectors is fine. No PGM-FI light. I'm going to try starting fluid in the morning and see if it starts, and then pull the fuel line at the fuel rail and see if it sprays fuel everywhere to verify it isn't a clogged filter. I hear the main relay click, and the fuel pump prime when I turn on the key.

Any other troubleshooting I can do for the fuel delivery system when I get up tomorrow? Or anything else that might cause a no start situation? I really hope to have this thing fixed by tomorrow some time, I have to have the car through tech on Friday. :(

[Oldblueaccord]

Okay, so 89 LXi (build thread can be seen here: http://www.3geez.com/forum/sanctioned-racing/84877-24-hours-lemons-race-car-build.html.

Has been running great but never warmed up. Drove it down the street and back, got to full operating temp for the first time since I put the new head on... Ran awesome the whole time, pulled it in the garage and shut it off (used the battery kill switch). Now it won't start.

I've never worked on a fuel injected 3g before. I checked all the fuses. The fuse for the injectors is fine. No PGM-FI light. I'm going to try starting fluid in the morning and see if it starts, and then pull the fuel line at the fuel rail and see if it sprays fuel everywhere to verify it isn't a clogged filter. I hear the main relay click, and the fuel pump prime when I turn on the key.

Any other troubleshooting I can do for the fuel delivery system when I get up tomorrow? Or anything else that might cause a no start situation? I really hope to have this thing fixed by tomorrow some time, I have to have the car through tech on Friday. :(

Well i would check for spark at a plug wire and work back from there.

You didnt run it out of gas?

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah I checked for spark at a wire. It was good. I keep thinking maybe it did run out of gas, and maybe the gauge is stuck at 1/2 tank. Going to add a gallon into the tank and see if it fires back up, along with testing out the car with some staring fluid.

[2ndGenGuy]

Well I went and cranked it up this morning. It started kinda hard, but then it fired right up to life. I'm wondering if the timing is so far retarded that it will only run when it's cold, and the cold advance is getting the timing just right. Gonna let it warm up here in a bit and get that shit set up right!

[Jafir]

Won't restart when at operating temp is a symptom of a bad TW sensor on 3g Accords with FI. Many times, but not always, you'll get a code for it. Code 6 I think.

[Legend_master]

^definitely a possibility. Also just cause the main relay clicks it does not mean it is working properly. I'd take it apart and re-solder the bottom just to rule it out.

[2ndGenGuy]

Dude, I think you nailed it. I took a look up at the sensor and look what I found:

http://i.imgur.com/D02kizcl.jpg

THANK YOU. I am off to the wrecking yard to find a new connector. God I hope I can find one. I just wish it had not broken off right at the connector....

[Legend_master]

That connector is the same as a lot of sensors from a lot of Hondas. Even the later model vtec pressure sensor is the same connection. Powersteering pressure switch uses that connection, and I believe all the temp sensors use them as well.

[2ndGenGuy]

Yeah buddy! I picked one up from a 5g Accord. Snagged 2 of them just in case. WORKS LIKE A FUCKING CHARM. Still probably going to resolder the spare main relay as a backup...

And now my brake lights work again too...

Thanks to everybody for the help on this!! Saved me hours of reading through the manual, when I have to get the car in for safety inspection tomorrow...

[Legend_master]

Can't wait to see this thing flying around the track! Gonna spray 3geez on the side lol?

[AccordB20A]

neat that you sorted it urself. weird how there was no check engine light. r u sure it has a bulb in it? does it turn on and then off when you turn the ignition on?

[2ndGenGuy]

Hmm... that's a good question on the bulb. I know it is good, because I swapped it with the brake light bulb to make sure. But I don't recall actually seeing it light up ever.... gonna check that in a little while!

[2ndGenGuy]

Can't wait to see this thing flying around the track! Gonna spray 3geez on the side lol?

I did put a 3geez sticker on the windshield! :) I need some stickers that aren't white so that they actually show up on the paint. I have no windows to put the stickers on! LOL

[2ndGenGuy]

Okay, so the PGMFI light doesn't come on when I start the car at all. Not even for a second. I know the bulb is good for sure. Why might it not come on? Broken wire somewhere? I'm pretty sure everything is hooked up...

[2oodoor]

I dont think mine does either, I am not sure it is like a CEL as other cars.
Somebody stop me if Im wrong, Ive never seen mine on but once after pushing it hard on an uphill grade, was rolling out serious blowby or some kinda fumes that smelled seriously toxic.

[Legend_master]

It would have to be the wire from the ecu, or the ground. Don't think the system is much more elaborate then that (except maybe the cluster "wireing".

[Dr_Snooz]

If the light doesn't come on for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on, then you have an issue. Troubleshooting starts on p. 12-17 of the '89 USDM manual. Unfortunately, it requires the mythical "test harness" to complete. :dunno:

[Jafir]

If the light doesn't come on for 2 seconds when you first turn the key on, then you have an issue. Troubleshooting starts on p. 12-17 of the '89 USDM manual. Unfortunately, it requires the mythical "test harness" to complete. :dunno:

I've seen one. The local dealer had one. And then I priced one. And then I laughed and decided back probing the connector at the ecu was a better idea (read cheaper).

[2ndGenGuy]

Damn, well I guess I'll have to go through the manual tonight. Maybe it's not worth the trouble anyways, since I'm planning on figuring out some kind of cheap engine management for this car.

[Dr_Snooz]

I laughed and decided back probing the connector at the ecu was a better idea (read cheaper).

I could never figure out how to ensure a good connection doing that, so I never trusted my results. Any pointers on ensuring a good connection?

[Legend_master]

Honestly, all you have to do is make sure B6 (page 12-8) from the ECU is connected to B12 (page 25-81) at the cluster. If that is connected: you possibly have bad wiring within the cluster, or the ECU is not functioning properly. The way you have the cluster mounted makes me wonder if one of those copper bands on the cluster may be touching some metal?

[Jafir]

I could never figure out how to ensure a good connection doing that, so I never trusted my results. Any pointers on ensuring a good connection?

Using special purpose probes helps:

Fluke TP88 Rigid Back Probe Pin Set, 2" Length:Amazon:Industrial & Scientific (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VRFL10/ref=redir_mdp_mobile)

But those are too expensive, just an example. There are cheaper ones out there, the just have a plastic shield at one end with a loop inside you can grab with alligator clip leads from your meter. Sometimes they are sharp at the probe end, sometimes not.

[Dr_Snooz]

Thanks!