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View Full Version : Main Relay (Removing Dash Panels)



gsimpson89
08-14-2013, 05:42 PM
Hello all again! I've been having some issues with my main relay not working on hot days (I've read this is a relatively common problem) I have been trying to replace the thing but it's way up and on the left hand side of the dash, out of reach. Does anyone have any experience taking off that left-hand dash panel where the coin box is? I removed every screw and bolt I could find but the thing seems to still be held in place pretty snugly and I don't want to break anything.

lostforawhile
08-14-2013, 06:55 PM
the coin box pulls off you just have to work around everything, a lot of people have left it in place, plugged in the new one and zip tied it up there,just left the old one where it was, if you can get it out, resoldering the cold solder joints usually fixes it

Jafir
08-15-2013, 01:09 PM
I cannot remember if it's on 3g or 4g, but one of them, I could pop the guts out of the main relay with it bolted into place, using a pocket screw driver. Then I could take the guts out of the new one and snap it into the old housing.

onebad4D
08-15-2013, 05:44 PM
I had this problem back in 2004. All I remember is that it was a bitch to get out. It was very easy to fix the actual relay though. Just remelted every soldered connection. I drilled ventilation holes in the top of the black plastic housing. I couldn't rebolt it in place and just left it unsecured. Never had any more problems since- even on the hottest days in hell...starts up like a champ.

gsimpson89
08-15-2013, 05:46 PM
Just spent about 30 minutes trying to pry it out of its holder with a thin screwdriver. I just can't get a good enough angle to pop it out. Can't drop the fuse box either to make room, there is this metal strut apart of the chassis in the way of that lol. I have to get to it from a different angle somehow

onebad4D
08-15-2013, 05:48 PM
Trust me, you DON'T want to drop the fuse box. It's a REAL bitch and totally unnecessary. Here's my post on that ordeal:

http://www.3geez.com/forum/technical/75655-removing-fuse-box-reconnecting-sunroof-drain-tubes.html#post1065768

gsimpson89
08-15-2013, 05:58 PM
Yeah I really don't want to have to or think I'll have to do that. I'll post some pics of how much room I have to work with

onebad4D
08-15-2013, 06:26 PM
I know I didn't take out the fuse box to remove the main relay. Had I done so, I might could have rebolted the relay back in place in though.

To unbolt the relay I probably used either a Craftsman racheting wrench (7 pc. Standard Locking Ratcheting Wrench Set: Flex and Twist with Sears (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-7-pc-standard-locking-flex-ratcheting-combination/p-00942400000P?prdNo=9)) or a "universal joint" socket.

If I were trying it today I'd probably use the S-wrench or half-moon ratcheting wrench (GearWrench 9850 5 Piece Metric Half Moon Double Box Ratcheting Wrench Set - Amazon.com (http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-9850-Metric-Double-Ratcheting/dp/B000HBAICW))

gsimpson89
08-15-2013, 07:40 PM
Finally got it out! It was hell I had to use three screwdrivers, one thin one, a longer thin one and a standard flathead to pry it out with both my hands in various positions and the tools. I had to bust off the snap that secures the actual connector to get it out and it was hard enough even after I did that.

You know those hairline cracks that people speak of on the main relay that causes it not to start? All but 3 of the solder joints had those, a couple had holes. I re-soldered everything and it works like a charm. :D

Some advice for people that search and find this in the future: make sure you remove the connector first, then remove the relay from its holder. I could not get it off without the holder pulling the opposite direction

Dr_Snooz
08-18-2013, 08:41 PM
15' of socket extension and a swivel adapter help a lot. Glad you got it working.