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Hazwan
08-23-2013, 05:47 AM
Yes I have a Prelude. I already told some of you guys but heres some background story: My uncle offered me a free car months back and me being me, I said yes without knowing wtf the car was and little did I know its a friggen 2g Prelude - something I always wanted for years! Fast forward a few months he had it delivered to me and actually paid for the tow and stuff (thank you sir :D) so I ended up with a totally free car! The catch is the motor is blown. And its an automatic. But hey its free?!

He gave the car to this guy years back and they drove it till it died and he had the car checked by a mechanic and they said theres water in the engine oil. Not sure how it got there in the first place, probably driven through flood or maybe blown headgasket since they said it ran rough before it died? He didn't want to fix it and ended up with the car in the storage for years before he offered me it since he knew I love old Hondas so much :D

I'll get more pics and I'll see whats up with the engine tomorrow. I'm gonna get a mechanic friend of mine to help since I'm basically clueless with building a motor LOL.

Enough talking, PICS TIME!

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Yes I promised a bunch of pics from 342432 different angles so yeah excuse the amount of pics. Wait till I get to tear the car down LOL

Hazwan
08-23-2013, 05:48 AM
Moar!

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Yes that would be rust. Is that bad? :D
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2ndGenGuy
08-23-2013, 11:39 AM
Looks like a clean ride! Not sure what's up with that rust. Can't tell, but is there any on the cam surfaces? Might wanna pull that engine and tear it down and look at things before you try starting it. Or at least drop the oil pan or something.

Also JDM PARTS:

http://www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331514

Hazwan
08-23-2013, 07:34 PM
AHHHH too many JDM ness!!

Hazwan
08-23-2013, 07:52 PM
So I've got the head off

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I could see a spot where the headgasket is blown I think? That explains the milkshake and how he described the car running rough and eventually died.
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Is this bad?
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Other than that spot, all cylinders are fairly clean and even the factory cross hatch is still there but then I'm clueless about building an engine LOL.

I don't know exactly whats wrong with the engine. I swear he told me he had a mechanic pulled the head off and found there are some rust on the pistons/cylinders. But then the exhaust nuts and head bolts are really tight still so I assume they never had it off before?

I'm guessing the headgasket blew and thats all? Unless I'm missing something else hahah!

cygnus x-1
08-24-2013, 08:25 AM
If the oil got water in it you need to pull the crank and check the bearings. It's a good bet the bearings are shot. If the crank journals are ok and the cylinders aren't out of spec, you could just do the rings and bearings on the bottom end. The head might be ok if the cam and rockers aren't abnormally worn. Really it's sort of a crap shoot with something that's been sitting around a long time like that.

If it were me, I would probably go with a full engine rebuild. Or if you just want a beater engine to drive around slap on a new head gasket and run it until it dies.

C|

Hazwan
08-24-2013, 10:44 PM
Man I would rather not do that right now. I'm not 100% fit enough to do any heavy work to be honest. I'm lucky that I could pull the head myself even!

But yeah I just want the car to drive right now I would be happy if it lasts for more than 10k haha. Planning to either get a B20A soon or maybe build another ET with performance upgrades! Oh and manual swap too hah!

Rendon LX-i
08-25-2013, 07:56 PM
i say if your not looking foward in rebuilding it slap a hg in and do a oil flush. meaning run fresh oil without starting (priming) drop oil then inspect to see if there is fine shaving an so forth. you might just get lucky.

Hazwan
08-27-2013, 04:29 AM
OMG GUISE IT LIVES! I didn't bother dropping the pan, just slapped a new headgasket, get the head machined, replaced some misc seals and gasket while I'm at it, new timing belt, done!

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I did not get PICS of everything back on but I'll post some tomorrow along with vids! This is actually my first time doing a major engine work lmao and it won't be possible if it wasn't for my buddies help and CAH (Y) And 2ndGenGuy too (Y) Did I mention that i was struggling to get the timing belt on? And them have them 2 tooth off and the motor won't even run and would backfire instantly LOL what a noob.

Anyway now I do have an issue with it not wanting to idle. Getting the rpm up won't do it anyway, in fact it would only stay alive if I keep playing with the gas pedal. What could be the issue here? I'm gonna pull the carbs off again and clean them again as well as checking all the adjustments once again. AND replacing my fuel filter lol but I did bypass the filter earlier and still no change. And yes I did drain the old gas off. Poured few gallons of fresh gas into the tank so I don't think bad gas is the issue here. I have new plugs, thats about it. I reused the old dizzy cap, rotor and wires. But I'm getting strong spark so I can't be too sure ahh

Dr_Snooz
08-27-2013, 03:44 PM
If the bad gas was in the carbs, it will have left varnish.

Hazwan
08-27-2013, 09:25 PM
It idles now but only if the chokes are closed so I'm thinking it has to be running so lean that it needs the choke so it would run somewhat rich? Exhaust doesn't smell rich either even with the chokes are closed. It would die as soon as the chokes are open.

VIDZ of poolude idling


http://youtu.be/Xb03PuSptUs

Any idea why it would die if I get the chokes to open? None of the vacuum lines are hooked up since whoever took the intake off before didn't bother labelling shit and they took everything out (N) And yes I did plug all the vacuum lines. I'm thinking theres a vacuum leak somewhere since it would run only when the choke is closed. I'd rather not mess with the carb settings yet.

I need to get new alternator/water pump belt as it was screeching like mad. And a couple cans of carb cleaner to check for vac leaks and probably would shoot the carbs with it just in case.

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Somebody help me with non-USDM carb vacuum diagram?
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Drained the oil after running for about 10 minutes. They look alright aside from it being black because I reused some old oil that I have in storage. But no metal shavings or any weird looking debris or even any milkshake left so I'm good :D
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Gonna repaint the vc
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Transmission has a nasty clunk when shifted from P to R and N to D. Theres fresh fluid in it but I think a full flush would help? Not sure if I could afford a manual swap right now (N)

It drives alright at least in my yard lol my garden hose wouldn't reach where the car is sitting.

Hazwan
08-29-2013, 06:02 AM
Managed to track down some vacuum leaks at the base gasket/coupler thing connected to carbs to the manifold. Pulled the carbs once again and found some shitty o-rings that I replaced and cleaned the carbs once again just to be sure. Some of the jets have some crap and dirt around them

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It idles better now except it would run rough when the chokes are fully open. I found some leak at the top caps thinggy on the carbs. The o-rings are hardened up, I'll see if replacing that would help.


http://youtu.be/8LcDKlmakBs

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Managed to burn my arm because I couldn't read. You know when they said never open the radiator cap when its hot, they really mean it LOL I've been doing this for years and never had any issues. I would just loosen the cap with a bunch of rags to relieve the pressure and I would fully open the cap once all the pressure was release but this time nope, loosened up BOOM HOT BOILING COOLANT ALL OVER THE PLACE. That hurts lol

Now all that left is to fix the belt squealing issue from the alternator. Not sure if the alternator even works. I have new a belt and all the pulleys are clean. They were rusty from sitting around in the trunk but I'm gonna have it tested tomorrow then I might be able to get the car inspected and stuff by next week then focus on other misc bits and pieces. And selling the Accord probably :\

2ndGenGuy
08-29-2013, 11:44 AM
Dude, you are a magician at getting shit running quickly and cheaply. It's ingenuity at it's finest, I say. Congrats on your accomplishments so far!

Hazwan
08-29-2013, 11:35 PM
Oh the joys of bring back piece of shit back to life.. I just found out that my oil turned into milkshake again and it can't be the old stuff since I had the oil drained the other day and it was as clear as it can be with no traces of coolant whatsoever. And the squealing alternator is back even when the alternator checked out okay and I even replaced the bearings and brushes while I'm at it and checked everything just to be sure and they all seemed okay. I'll see if changing the oil and do another flush would help else I'd say fuck it.

79cord
08-30-2013, 02:52 AM
Exciting to see the car, even if a little late, sorry to here things didn't go to plan, but you certainly got some excitement with the premature run.
Don't let any early failures disappoint you too badly, an absurdly cheap old car has every right to give trouble & adventures until its finally sorted.

Had a ride in the friends '85 Prelude 2 weeks ago after he braved up to invest lots of money getting power steering rebuilt, driveshafts, ball-joints & brakes & it overheated on our way somewhere too. Probably just from a small radiator hose leak we spotted when we stopped to investigate, thinking we might have to bypass thermo-fan switch to ensure fans worked. I'll admit I was also worried about water-pump after seeing rusty water & remembering my integras impeller blades completely rusted off!, though Radiator had been replaced a few years ago & some sealant visible 'round pump so presume that was looked at too.
Hasn't given that trouble since.. though he's still wandering about state of distributor & possible a carburetor rebuild too.
It's certainly a nice comfortable car with good visibility, absurdly light power steering & a classy image, (his light gold with light grey interior) & I'm jealous enough of the nicely positioned 5-speed g/shift to contemplate the serious floor cutting/welding required to achieve it in integra (fitting short 'quick-shift g/stick would be no match for the Prelude setup).
Am I right that's a pre-facelift frt bumper, not quite as wedgey as the later ones?

Strangeduck
08-30-2013, 04:33 AM
Well, oil in water is probably a cracked block. What happens is people get a blown headgasket, engine burns off the water in the cyclinder and gets hot and then block cracks and then they get water in the pan and blame the head gasket. Common mistake. Suck to hear that after all the work you put into it.

I wish i would have seen this earlier, by what you described with the radiator having that much pressure is sign that you still probably had a head gasket issue or cracked head.

Strangeduck
08-30-2013, 04:38 AM
The rough idle makes me think cracked head or gasket too, fouling out one of the plugs. You could always try unhooking one spark plug wire off at a time to see if it doesnt change the idle. that would at least let you know if it is one cylinder causing the issue and not something else. Did the machine shop test the head for cracks?

cygnus x-1
08-30-2013, 07:32 AM
It's also possible the block needs to be resurfaced.

C|

Hazwan
08-30-2013, 02:54 PM
Idle was good since I've fixed most of the vacuum leaks and it could actually idle even with the chokes fully open. Drained the oil and refilled with fresh new oil, ran for about 3 minutes then back to white again. My buddy came by and agreed that this isn't a leftover from the old oil and he too agreed that its a good idea to pull the head again and have the machine shop to check the head again.

I'm also getting this gurgling and whistling noise when the engine is off even after running for less than 5 minutes with the temperature under 1/4. And that excessive pressure that burned myself the other day. That gurgling noise was there ever since the first time I had it started too, I thought it was just the air bubbles since I can't really get it running well enough (carb issues) to properly bleed the cooling system.

I was wondering if running the engine this long with those air bubbles has caused it to overheat and blew the gasket again? The highest temp I get was 1/2 but then the air bubbles might have thrown the sensor off?

If it was cracked head/block then the oil should turn milky right away but the first time I flushed the oil after running for about 5 minutes it was as clear as it can be with no traces of coolant?

Hazwan
08-30-2013, 09:33 PM
Definitely not leftover stuff from the old oil (N)
5423

Getting the head out today and have everything checked including the block. Kinda hard to do it myself now working with just one hand lolol so I gotta wait for my buddy to help me undo the exhaust bolts

While waiting for him to show up.. I found this:
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Wat.

Oh gotta love how I've got my priorities straight >< Damn it get the engine running first!

Dr_Snooz
09-01-2013, 01:09 PM
I was going to say that this is the reason I won't do a partial engine build, but my last engine build was a partial (bottom end only) so ignore me. I probably would have done some vacuum gauge and leak down tests before tearing down again, but it's a little late for that, I guess.

If you're going to ditch this build, then do it quick before you get too much invested and can't go back and it ends up being a gigantic money pit.

Good luck, Haz.

Hazwan
09-03-2013, 05:13 AM
Had the head back from a different machine shop yesterday. The head was warped and I honestly have no idea if the head was warped before I put it back together the last time or it warped after I ran it too hot from having all the bubbles in the cooling system but seeing how the first guy left some corrosion near the coolant passage on the head, I would say they probably screwed it up the first time. Second guy did it right this time and confirmed the head was warped hah!

Installed the head last night with the help of my buddy and the car was running this morning. I also had the radiator flushed and leak tested so its pretty much brand new. Ran the car for 5 mins, drained the oil and saw some white stuff again ha! Refilled with fresh oil, ran for another 5 mins, checked the dipstick, its all good except for some slight white stuff on it. Oil cap has a bunch of milkshake oil though, I assume it would be caused by the moisture in the engine or the PCV isn't hooked up properly?

Took the car for a drive around the neighborhood, stalled once while in gear. I still gotta get the carb rebuild kit since its not 100% right yet but it idles alright. Checked the oil again and its slightly cloudy but not as bad as before. It was foamy white milkshake like vs now being slightly cloudy. I will do another flush and hopefully it would clear up this time!

Temperature is fine now it would barely went over 1/2 and cooling fans are working as it should. Cycled on/off a couple of times while I let it idle for a few mins.

Pics and vids tomorrow!

Tdurr
09-03-2013, 07:45 AM
good stuff haz. glad u got that figured out. now more pics and vids.

A18A
09-03-2013, 06:44 PM
nao for an excessive amount of panel work :D :D :D

Dr_Snooz
09-03-2013, 07:17 PM
Nice! Give that other machine shop guy a slap upside the head for making you do another teardown.

johng
09-04-2013, 06:11 PM
nice project keep us posted on updates

Hazwan
09-04-2013, 08:18 PM
PICS!

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Those stupid plug wires piss me off but oh well that can wait!

Oil after 20 mins run, mostly idle. I only did one flush after the second headgasket job and it stayed this cloudy so its definitely good now! I'm going to flush out the oil again and hopefully it would stay clear this time! Any tips/tricks to fully get the old white stuff out?

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Also cleaned the sunroof tracks when I had the sunroof checked since it was leaking like mad. The glass doesn't sit flush with the roof. Ended up adding a couple of washers about 3-4mm thick ><

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Hazwan
09-10-2013, 07:14 PM
I went to the yard with a 5 speed 2g Prelude yesterday. Keep in mind that Preludes are really hard to come by here, let alone the older generations and they just happen to have 2 of them. One has been stripped with nothing good usable while the other one has its 5 speed components still intact.

Asked them how much would it cost to get all the 5 speed conversion parts.. They said....... US$1000. WAT.

Are you fucking kidding me? If the transmission is 100% new or at least has been rebuilt and came with brand new clutch/cables/bushes etc sure but $1k for something that you're not even sure if it still working? LOL fuck that.

Went to another yard that I regularly to and the guy whos friends with me told me that he might be able to help to find me the parts from other yards from other area/state and it would be sure as fuck be less than a grand hah! He also told me that he could get the transmission alone for around $300 which is fair. The other yard wanted $600 for the transmission alone. You nuts? People are selling modern VTEC manual conversion parts for a LOT less than that.

Oh well looks like the 5 speed conversion has to wait. Worst case I'll just grab the pedals and the gear linkage from that cut throat yard lol I could get the rest of the parts from that other yard for a LOT cheaper.

Bonus instagram pic:
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Found this the other day

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Looks like its been hit on the left/passenger's side quarter panel before. Theres a bunch of bondo on it and the crumpled sheet metal as seen in the pics made it clear. Oh well its not a huge deal for me its getting a ground up restoration soon :D

I also took the car for a test drive in the neighborhood. Drives fine, autotragic shifts fine, steering feels good, brakes are good which is surprising since the car has been sitting for at least a year. I need to flush the old fluid though but yeah the car is ready for the inspection and I can slowly start with other misc bits and pieces now :)

Hazwan
09-21-2013, 03:33 AM
Done quite amount of work since last week. Decided to fix the quarter panel rust.

Stripped the 312321321 inches thick of filler
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ooookay looks like they decided to add a bunch of filler to fill the line and made a new one out of.. filler. wtf really?

All gone
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Etching primer
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Hazwan
09-21-2013, 03:37 AM
Added a bunch of filler. Not as thick as the old one though
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It was a bitch to shape the wheel arch line though since the original line is non-existant. This is not the best way to do it but finding a replacement quarter panel is going to be.. impossible. The next best thing I could do is to weld new metal on, probably cut from front fender or something but then I have no welder :(

Passenger side has a bunch of filler on the rocker panel too -.-
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Both quarter panels has been hit before. I'm guessing they sideswiped something on the right side since the fender and door came from a red car. Can't be sure about the left side though. Door is original, at least I thought it is but the quarter panel is trashed. I don't feel like doing that side yet.

A18A
09-21-2013, 08:09 AM
yay for progress

Hazwan
09-27-2013, 06:43 AM
I'm pretty much decided to go ahead with full respray instead of just patching rusted out panel(s) so I've stripped the passenger's side quarter panel too

http://i.imgur.com/G99bD5S.jpg

Just. look. at. that
http://i.imgur.com/KHnGI3U.jpg

Seriously guys
http://i.imgur.com/lONn9gQ.jpg

All gone
http://i.imgur.com/MSyMHCe.jpg

Long tedious process of applying filler then sanding. Repeat.
http://i.imgur.com/UNpwwcc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ockPBMa.jpg

At least I know the bare metal has been treated properly and shouldn't rust anytime soon. And only minimal amount of body filler used hah!

Hazwan
09-27-2013, 06:45 AM
Let's see what do we have under the paint on the driver's side door..
http://i.imgur.com/g5ByG9i.jpg

Just. kill me.
http://i.imgur.com/T9k3WQH.jpg

Nope
http://i.imgur.com/ZZiCKY1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/52NRWNU.jpg

I'm going to fucking kill somebody!
http://i.imgur.com/8z3JgJO.jpg

At least the roof is 99% filler free
http://i.imgur.com/LuZtbic.jpg

Dr_Snooz
09-27-2013, 06:51 AM
What is the red on that door?

Hazwan
09-27-2013, 06:59 AM
Both driver's side door and fender used to be red which led me to believe that PO must have hit something pretty bad on that side basically messed the whole side up and they had both door and fender replaced and had to fix the quarter panel with 3321 inch thick bondo.

Dr_Snooz
09-27-2013, 08:25 PM
Well heck, if you're going to re-sculpt the door out of Bondo, why not use the old one and save the money of buying a replacement panel? Lots of body work there, bud. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this build.

79cord
09-27-2013, 11:49 PM
Well it least you've seen & fixed worse, & I'm sure this should turn out nicer than that, though it is sad to have to clean up such messes.
Doesn't seem frighteningly rusty yet.

Hazwan
09-28-2013, 05:21 AM
Well heck, if you're going to re-sculpt the door out of Bondo, why not use the old one and save the money of buying a replacement panel? Lots of body work there, bud. I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with this build.

My thoughts exactly.


Well it least you've seen & fixed worse, & I'm sure this should turn out nicer than that, though it is sad to have to clean up such messes.
Doesn't seem frighteningly rusty yet.

Yeah I can't complain much since the car is free haha. There are no major rust thankfully! But if I leave the small rust spots any much longer then it might spread and probably would rust through the metal. Gotta take care of them now!

Anyway so I found this

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Seriously?

I'm beyond pissed. First they ruined the side molding beyond repair. Who the hell thought its a good idea to rivet through them and then put a bunch of bondo over it? You know there's a way to attach trim bits like this to the body even with broken clips that doesn't require 34242342 inch bondo.. Really dude why not create the molding with bondo from scratch instead?

Dr_Snooz
09-28-2013, 08:11 PM
:ROFL: I'm glad I'm not the only one who gets worked up about sloppy work. Especially when I have to fix it.

AccordB20A
09-30-2013, 11:03 PM
Damn that things got as much body filler shit in it as your gold car.

Wheres the B20A swap pics?!?!?!

Hazwan
10-01-2013, 03:43 AM
Damn that things got as much body filler shit in it as your gold car.

Wheres the B20A swap pics?!?!?!

When you ship me yours dammit!!!!11

kso I've got the car covered in etching primer now. I actually stripped the whole car minus door jambs but I was distracted with some other work so I had to leave the car in bare metal for 2 days and it started to rust ahhhhh so I sanded every surface rust off and sprayed etching primer on. No pics because I was too busy not trying to stop my car from rotting lol

http://i.imgur.com/MmPKDay.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/88PY8Mc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Na6WDK9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HwXh8tI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cDZLVhG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/thGw7m7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YGzSmgV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BM1tnk0.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WlpLeyj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bd3QhCd.jpg

All those red filler spots are basically what needed to fix the dent and dings -.-

I shaved the side molding holes because there is absolutely no way I'm going to reuse the one you see in the previous post hah!

Also somebody decided to remove the factory duckbill spoiler and welded the holes shut and managed to warp the hell out of the trunk lid in the process too. Idiots.

79cord
10-02-2013, 02:00 AM
Glad to see you are able to get working upon it so quickly & enthusiastically. It won't have any secrets hidden from you!
Can't wait to see how you choose to paint & detail it .

Hazwan
10-02-2013, 06:19 PM
I just happen to have a spare CB7 lip that I've got for free while back. It's in beat up condition but fixable. Obviously it didn't fit properly as its curved up front vs ludes bumper being pretty much square but some minor cutting, I've made it to work!

http://i.imgur.com/zFgSMXm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aCCcCAu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/IUZq6Z4.jpg

I gotta reshape that, no biggie but fitment is great. Same exact length too! No cutting required!
http://i.imgur.com/u1E0ZFt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/904mpcY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ssoRaCX.jpg

Looks like I need something to fill the gap here. I'll come up with something I'm sure :p
http://i.imgur.com/yb6o0rs.jpg

Some cutting needed to shape the lip to fit
http://i.imgur.com/8ncUl4D.jpg

It was broken here before, nothing that I can't fix anyway :p
http://i.imgur.com/d4VP3dP.jpg

Bonus Instagram pic from yesterday
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/1383488_10151691184207106_787541605_n.jpg

Dr_Snooz
10-03-2013, 07:04 PM
It has almost as much character as your gold car now! LOL

Hazwan
10-05-2013, 09:47 PM
Well that CB7 part did not end there. I snagged a pair of side skirts out of a CB7 and obviously it won't fit without a lot of modding.

Main reason why I need them is to cover up a hack job done by the previous owner where they welded a replacement rocker panel wrong and crooked near the rear wheel and its pissing me off just to even look at it. I can't weld else I would replace them correctly instead but oh well these will do for now I guess.

http://i.imgur.com/4nNiPSd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1cbs42U.jpg

Test fit
http://i.imgur.com/6iXJMSb.jpg

This is how much I needed to cut as it was too long
http://i.imgur.com/rSJWoJs.jpg

Trimmed so it would fit flush with the body
http://i.imgur.com/59d8unx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JMXZVfh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ljL6tDu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ylhVCIx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jFv8P6a.jpg

Now I gotta figure out how to mount them properly to the body. A lot of sanding/trimming needed still so it looks rough atm

firefighterwhite89
10-05-2013, 11:47 PM
Well, oil in water is probably a cracked block. What happens is people get a blown headgasket, engine burns off the water in the cyclinder and gets hot and then block cracks and then they get water in the pan and blame the head gasket. Common mistake. Suck to hear that after all the work you put into it.

I wish i would have seen this earlier, by what you described with the radiator having that much pressure is sign that you still probably had a head gasket issue or cracked head.

The a-Series headgaskets may as well be made from egg shells. I've been through 3 in 7 years. Everytime the car overheats, you risk blowing a headgasket on these cars. Almost always seems to be between cyl #2 and #3 but once it got all 4 cylinders but that was when my water pump officially died. Try a HG. More than likely, that's your issue as that is a fairly common issue. ALSO, remember to tighten AND lossen your head bolts evenly in the recommended pattern. The block is Iron, and will take way more crap than any aluminum block. The head is another story. You'll warp or crack your head being aluminum before you'll blow your block unless you run the motor waaayyyy too low on oil. I've had oil in the coolant AND coolant in the oil before. Both were the HG. And another lesson i've learned...pick a fel-pro head gasket. Don't go cheap.

Hazwan
10-08-2013, 05:11 AM
Project is on hold, at least I until I can finish a customer's car paintjob by the end of this week. That means I'm gonna get paid! Bad news is I already spent that much money I made this month on the lude hahah!

Now. Been thinking about this for a while. My stock carbs never ran right. One of my floats is leaking and I had it fixed with epoxy and who knows how long that would hold and it would suck if it starts leaking again while I'm in the middle of nowhere. And I can never tune them properly - it would never idle under 900rpm without stalling in D and idle is pretty rough in N and under 900rpm. Doesn't matter if the chokes are open or closed.

So now decisions: rebuild stock twin Keihins and spending a fortune with rebuild kits, new floats etc (importing from teh USDM or JDM land since I can't find shit locally) and pray that the 27 year old carbs would last and run good for a while or spend a little bit more on bike carbs and pray that I can actually tune and make them work? I mean I can't even tune 2 carbs properly, let alone 4 of them? I have fairly basic experience with carbs just never dealt with anything performance related. Never rejetted a carb before so I'm not sure what I'm expecting from this.

Fabrication wise, I can get the manifold made for cheap so thats not gonna be a problem.

Hows the fuel economy with 4 bike carbs anyway? I'm shooting anywhere between 25-30mpg city driving. Not even sure if thats possible with the stock shitty tuned carbs hah!

apache07x
10-08-2013, 08:28 AM
Project is on hold, at least I until I can finish a customer's car paintjob by the end of this week. That means I'm gonna get paid! Bad news is I already spent that much money I made this month on the lude hahah!

Now. Been thinking about this for a while. My stock carbs never ran right. One of my floats is leaking and I had it fixed with epoxy and who knows how long that would hold and it would suck if it starts leaking again while I'm in the middle of nowhere. And I can never tune them properly - it would never idle under 900rpm without stalling in D and idle is pretty rough in N and under 900rpm. Doesn't matter if the chokes are open or closed.

So now decisions: rebuild stock twin Keihins and spending a fortune with rebuild kits, new floats etc (importing from teh USDM or JDM land since I can't find shit locally) and pray that the 27 year old carbs would last and run good for a while or spend a little bit more on bike carbs and pray that I can actually tune and make them work? I mean I can't even tune 2 carbs properly, let alone 4 of them? I have fairly basic experience with carbs just never dealt with anything performance related. Never rejetted a carb before so I'm not sure what I'm expecting from this.

Fabrication wise, I can get the manifold made for cheap so thats not gonna be a problem.

Hows the fuel economy with 4 bike carbs anyway? I'm shooting anywhere between 25-30mpg city driving. Not even sure if thats possible with the stock shitty tuned carbs hah!

Will an intake off of an Accord fit? If it's an A series and it will fit why not an Accord intake with a Weber on it? I get around 22 -23 in town with an auto sedan and 29 -30 on the highway. Probably get better with a lighter car especially if it's a 5 spd.

knifemind
10-08-2013, 11:07 AM
Will an intake off of an Accord fit? If it's an A series and it will fit why not an Accord intake with a Weber on it? I get around 22 -23 in town with an auto sedan and 29 -30 on the highway. Probably get better with a lighter car especially if it's a 5 spd.

He would have to swap an A20 head to use an A20 intake mani. Also, I don't believe a weber + filter would clear the hood. However since he states manifold can be made, maybe make a weber mani for the prelude head...it could be designed to sit low enough to clear I'm sure.

Anyway, love the progress. Hope for more updates soon.

2oodoor
10-08-2013, 12:37 PM
I think I would stick with twin carbs, you can do some easy fabricating and use Delorto carbs, they make thes for air cooled vw that are super reasonable cost.
The mc carbs would be fine but if you want the most mpg and power you'd need megajolt or some way to tune tbe advance.
To use an a20 head and intake, hood clearance no doubt would be an issue but thats what hood scoops are for lol... i think. Those the dg style webers need a spacer to run great, nobody uses them here except A20A1 ( member) the floor of the manifold is just too close to get great atomization before hitting the runners.

AccordB20A
10-11-2013, 06:23 PM
The real engine he needs is in my screen name

apache07x
10-12-2013, 12:22 PM
The real engine he needs is in my screen name

I got one of those. Not in the car yet but I got one!

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4

apache07x
10-12-2013, 12:25 PM
Don't know if it makes a difference but I don't have a filter on top I have a snorkel adapter with a filter to the side. May gain some hood clearance that way

Sent from my EVO using Tapatalk 4

Hazwan
10-16-2013, 03:41 AM
I'm not sure which direction I'm going with the carbs or engine wise but I'm gonna have to see which one is the best bang for the buck. Slapping an A20A head with the single carb is the easiest and cheapest option but I would rather not hack the hood up and mess with the stock line with scoops or anything. Anything with the Weber name here is going to be expensive. Cheapest would be bike carbs but tuning is going to be bitch. I really would like to go with fuel injected but FI A20A is a rare sight here. I don't know yet we'll see.

Anyway updates!

Bought a BA1 bumper last week. So much better looking than the stock EX ones
http://i.imgur.com/RnmSZUA.jpg

This also showed up last week. That should take care of the hideous wheel gaps haha
http://i.imgur.com/wfO3aaH.jpg

This is why you should sand whatever surface you're going to paint. They didn't even bother sanding the old paint off before laying the blue paint on and it peeled right off after I sprayed them with a garden hose -.-
http://i.imgur.com/TDqkf5m.jpg

Door jambs and stuff done
http://i.imgur.com/s2VyzzX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zxZJhN7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0sIyaR2.jpg

Primered

http://i.imgur.com/x4hYlkr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YqfAhbG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ARzvOVd.jpg

Hazwan
10-16-2013, 03:42 AM
SI bumper on EX supports. I had to drill a couple of new holes for it to fit
http://i.imgur.com/I6Gwg1L.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9XcsmRi.jpg

I'm shaving the front license plate holes too
http://i.imgur.com/65q8OZd.jpg

After some fiberglass and body filler
http://i.imgur.com/fLTuO4S.jpg

Shaved the chrome trim thinggy on the rear bumper as it would look funny with SI front bumper. I'm still looking for SI rear bumper but then this will do for now
http://i.imgur.com/d1bjfjL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JujVGN8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hEYB0jg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wjqEmmy.jpg

All that left now is get the bumpers and side skirts done then its PAINT TIME!!

Dr_Snooz
10-16-2013, 05:51 AM
This also showed up last week. That should take care of the hideous wheel gaps haha
http://i.imgur.com/wfO3aaH.jpg

Wait, what? You aren't going to cut the springs this time? LOL

Hazwan
10-16-2013, 06:32 PM
Nope and it's not going to be that low this time! Yes I said that right, make a screenshot whatever as a proof lmao!

Hazwan
10-18-2013, 05:58 AM
Final blocking done, all that left is to PAINT! Hopefully the weather is going to clear up tomorrow. It's been raining here a lot :(
http://i.imgur.com/VmPjTXt.jpg

Shaved rear bumper
http://i.imgur.com/quhRQ0W.jpg

omg I can't wait!

2ndGenGuy
10-18-2013, 12:03 PM
Looking so good man! Can't wait to see it in paint!!!

Hazwan
10-19-2013, 06:56 AM
This suuucks.

5552

:(

Looks like I'm gonna need to build a real booth soon haha. Missed a few jobs because of this too.

Dr_Snooz
10-19-2013, 07:59 PM
Glad to see you so fired up about a car again. It's great to see your progress, even if it's raining a little.

Hazwan
10-20-2013, 02:29 AM
I'm basically depression free ever since I get this car haha. It helps me to distract myself from thinking too much of things. Keeps me occupied for the whole day when I don't have a customer. Anyway weather cleared up today just enough for me to paint the car! It was sunny since 8am till 2pm ish then it started to rain haha. Thank God for that!

Sprayed the ground coat. It's a tri-stage paint so theres 3 different coats.
http://i.imgur.com/tFHBGgC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ofS3i3P.jpg

Both rear bumper and spoiler is giving me problems with paint reaction. Not sure what happened I guess it was just the type of primer I used for them but the both my side skirts and front bumper are fine?
http://i.imgur.com/91buVEI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Jt8aQh8.jpg

Pearl layer + clear!
http://i.imgur.com/8XBUkoO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/yzTSiYk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Mp1mqCZ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lc1cTmC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5VxyPYr.jpg

Hazwan
10-20-2013, 02:30 AM
http://i.imgur.com/F01XreW.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jxeVRgp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/M9C95Gp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NHwASPz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZmIqcsz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/v4YJWk8.jpg

Color is supposed to be Honda Sunburst Orange Pearl YR-589P but I sort of cheaped out since the actual formula for it is too expensive so I had to ask the shop to tone the pearl down a little bit and it looks more red than orange now lol. I think I kinda like it now idk

This is what it should look like
5554

Close enough :p

hondalude86
10-20-2013, 06:26 AM
Damn Dude, that looks awesome! I haven't read a single post on either sites beyond the first few, and in one since I'm dissapointed because I could have followed the whole bit, but in another, its like watching a good show, but a season at a time, rather than show to show! Car is looking good buddy! As far as carbs go... These 38mm Keihins are very similiar to the 38mm Keihins used on the Honda Goldwing motor cycles of the 80s. I'm not sure if that will help simplify this setup or not... however, it is a decent source for jets or jet options. Rich has a little write up on prelude power about the mods for the stock carbies. I've personally got a stock running set of carbs running stock everything (just a K&N filter and a Shaved head) on a motor that has over 200k miles on it, and I average 33mpg in town... My car however is NOT fast! Actually quiet slow... but with the suspension bits I've got done to it, it's still an entertaining ride! Also another option could be some weber DCOE 40s (much cheaper than 45s) on a "custom manifold". on egay, you can find new DCOE 40s for 400$ new per pair (maybe even cheaper for Dellorto or Mukini). The 40s should be able to get you by on power for a long time till you get crazy with the motor. With my shit tuned a20a3 on some DCOE 45's I average about 24mpg. And that is with a cam but also running the mega jolt (which cost about 600$ to build). point is, there is alot of different directions you can take here.... Good luck to ya

Hazwan
10-21-2013, 05:08 AM
33mpg town is actually pretty good :o

I've read about the carb mods on there but I could never feel fast enough with the auto -.- Right now I just want to concentrate on getting the carbs to run correctly before I go on with any mods. That and 5 speed swap lmao I can't stand driving an automatic ever! Right now I have a flat spot going from standstill and it would only start pulling after 2k upwards and when it does, it did it pretty good. I'll check and see whats up once I get the paintjob done and having a chance to actually drive this thing! I only drove her for like 10 miles so far haha!

Anyway more pics!

Washed the interior. It was nasty with dust and dirt from the previous owner. IIRC car was driven through a flood once and water actually got into the interior. Explains why most bolts are rusty but there are no major rust going on anywhere, just some random surface rust which I'm gonna take care of them soon! Also check out my mad tyte JDM bucket seat!
http://i.imgur.com/TwnS6G5.jpg

Sunroof is back on. That bitch was heavy and was a huge PITA to do it alone. Ended up asking my dad and sister to help me hold the sunroof while I bolted it up
http://i.imgur.com/zUx0XYY.jpg

Spent quite amount of time scraping the paint on the rubber trim around the door handle before reinstalling them. The plastic hinge thinggy for the lock cylinders are broken and was held by a wire. I'm gonna get a replacement from the yard I guess
http://i.imgur.com/AFu27ij.jpg

Rear bumper test fit. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out considering it was bad and was scratched pretty bad before.
http://i.imgur.com/LBDb97M.jpg

Painted the grille thinggy on the front bumper black. I don't like the look of everything color coded. It just doesn't look right with the body shape imo. I think I'm going to find the Si's side moulding in black as right now it looks.. empty. But then none of the trims are on yet LOL
http://i.imgur.com/8yfumz7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/winJxfq.jpg

Color is really hard to capture on camera. It appears solid red and looks brighter in the pics. This is probably the closest to what it looks like in real life but still looks too bright.
http://i.imgur.com/hGuTBaZ.jpg

And no, I did not paint the bumper with my Accord at the back. Obviously I moved the car outside before I start spraying haha

Dr_Snooz
10-21-2013, 06:23 PM
I thought the Accord had moved on. Cool to see it still around. Your paint and body work is looking epic.

Hazwan
10-22-2013, 10:10 PM
Not for long. Still waiting for the right person to buy it (with cash). I'm totally broke right now. I need to sell her quick else I won't be able to finish the lude

Anyway updates!

Started wetsanding the rear end with 1000grit. It may not look like it in the pics but the orange peel was pretty heavy. Starting with 1000, then move on to 1200, 1500 and finally 2000 then rubbing compound then polish. Yes I still gotta do the rest of the car with 1000 grit. I'm not even close to be done here hah
http://i.imgur.com/QapHA6Z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/n0gjAKE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/V2DkCvw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/28bD65u.jpg

Test fitted the bumper. Si bumper was the best investment ever! Too bad the CB7 lip is too short else I would reuse that too!
http://i.imgur.com/raEtdYS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7yhrgv9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/d331kyX.jpg

Bumper has less orange peel compared to the rest of the larger body panels. That proves my point that my 50 liter air compressor is tiny!
http://i.imgur.com/yz1mbII.jpg

Look at how flat I got the roof after 1000 grit No more orange peel!
http://i.imgur.com/Y3ZzKrs.jpg

Still not sure why it looks like solid red here LOL

2ndGenGuy
10-23-2013, 08:24 PM
Regardless man, it looks freakin' awesome! One day you'll capture that pearl with the camera. ;)

hondalude86
10-24-2013, 03:39 AM
Check your timing on the motor. I known I had a huge hesitation with my timing set low. I adjusted to 24° btdc (stock manual is 20°) and that helped tons! It did hurt my top end a bit but I moved my adjustable can gear into the shaved head and found that off by 3.5°! That's with my head shaved 1mm!

Hazwan
10-25-2013, 09:24 PM
I haven't had my ignition timing set properly yet haha. I need to adjust my valves still. I've been too busy with bodywork stuff and never got around messing with the engine. Hell I only driven the car like 5-8 miles so far? :( I'll concentrate with the engine stuff once I'm done with the body!

So yeah updates!

Sanded the whole car with 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 And ready for buffing process
http://i.imgur.com/Cw5clN9.jpg

First pass with rubbing compound
http://i.imgur.com/CZUYY5U.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WcKCeqw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FZEIe49.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZVpBJlc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Yh0zMQX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3Yn2p2i.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/4oNT477.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WED97sL.jpg

I'm not done yet. I'm tired and I hate buffing new paintjob. One small mistake and you're gonna have to repaint the whole panel and start over. Besides all the polishing compound tend to get all over my clothes, skin and hair. But oh well the results are going to be worth all the troubles!

79cord
10-26-2013, 04:50 AM
Great to see the progress, looks terrific. Was wondering what colour your would choose.
I do like the extra pointyness of the late/Si front bumper. Will be interesting to see it all together without the side trims, a clean/stark look; can look great but does take some getting used to. You could always put some vinyl tape/striping there for fun/experimentation.
Some friends found their Prelude carburetors greatly improved after cleaning the 'sliders', slight stumbling upon initial acceleration before. Must do my Honda Z's.

Hazwan
10-27-2013, 04:21 AM
Yeah Si front bumper look a hell lot better than the stock base model's bumper. I think I might find the Si side trims to match too but that would be a bitch to find! Not really feeling the shaved look honestly but I had no choice!

Remember I bought a set of Blox 88-00 Civic coilover sleeve kit few weeks back? I had the fronts installed earlier this morning. I'm going to do the rears later. Hopefully they would fit lol

I don't have a spring compressor so I removed the nuts while the shock and spring is still attached to the body instead of removing them separately and risking the springs flying and potentially hurting me or something
http://i.imgur.com/rUPPcGu.jpg

Shock and spring out together
http://i.imgur.com/ztquJON.jpg

Top hat still attached to the body
http://i.imgur.com/t71hBFb.jpg

O-rings from the kit installed. I'll see if this hold up else I'm gonna find a better way to mount the sleeve
http://i.imgur.com/Sfqrjji.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/O95CXDV.jpg

Sleeve mounted
http://i.imgur.com/p0dcwD5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WzDJVG9.jpg

I didn't use the supplied top mount as they won't fit. Besides the coilover springs still fit under the stock top hats properly.

Size comparison compared to stock
http://i.imgur.com/uMHdOUk.jpg

Bump stop cut in half
http://i.imgur.com/5oHEa2j.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NMnMODL.jpg

Hazwan
10-27-2013, 04:22 AM
Done! (fronts at least)
http://i.imgur.com/Sqkc3Eq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PHzxTKx.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7pdxOph.jpg

And no, rear end isn't on jacks LOL Its ridiculous how high the stock setup really is!

Perfect amount of drop with the adjusters all the way down IMO. Not too high and not too low. I don't think I'm gonna go any lower like I did with my Accord. It was a bitch to drive properly. Having to slow down in unfamiliar roads because you're trying to avoid all the possible pot holes. Doing like 2mph on speed bumps. Scraping the front lip on slopes etc. I'm done with that :tounge2:

Anyway I'm getting the front top hats extended by welding a piece of pipe to it soon so we'll see how it holds up. Shocks are pretty new (at least according the previous owner). I do know a place locally that could replace the oil with heavier stuff, essentially making the shock stiffer so I'm gonna give that a try. I heard some good results from that so we'll see.

I didn't measure the exact amount of drop I got but I believe its around 2" lower from stock. The adjusters are maxxed down so it might be a problem if you're looking to go lower. I don't think I'm gonna go lower so thats not gonna be a problem to me.

I did the rears except I ran into some problems. The sleeves won't fit! It should fit with some work (sanding both the strut body and inner coilover sleeve) but I opted to go with a pair of spare ebay coilover sleeves that I have in storage and it fits without much work. (ID is slightly bigger than the Blox's sleeve ID)

Unlike the front, I've managed to remove the top nut outside the car without killing myself from flying springs. There's barely any tension on it so I'm good.
http://i.imgur.com/QXzr0Bf.jpg

Looks like somebody already cut the bump stop in half >< I recall my uncle told me something about he had all shocks replaced because it used to run on cut springs.
http://i.imgur.com/ZCQF3aY.jpg

I had to grind this nut else the sleeve won't slide in properly
http://i.imgur.com/MloyDiS.jpg

Done and the o-ring just happen to slid into the groove just nice
http://i.imgur.com/cexpIBF.jpg

Sleeve on. I ran into a problem not being able to use the stock dust boot so I'm gonna have to look around the junkyard for something that might fit.
http://i.imgur.com/4o1zIPj.jpg

I think I may have missed the all done pics with the top hat installed >< but I had to use the supplied top hat else the springs won't sit properly on the top hat. But I'll get more pictures when I have them off again. These are just a quick test fit since I can't wait to get rid of that horrendous wheel gaps LOL

Front setup: just showing how much travel is left. Which isn't much. Shock body is at exactly the same as upper part of the sleeve so there's like an inch of travel left now. I'm getting the top hats extended anyway so that's not gonna be a problem
http://i.imgur.com/n4M0JiF.jpg

Hazwan
10-27-2013, 04:24 AM
Car on the ground pics
http://i.imgur.com/NEKZ5eb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VO2Zjd9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mvkclN3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/589KSIO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/q19mjUQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WLolrzh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KWlOj3D.jpg

It looks so much better already! Can't wait to get new wheels for it. And reassembling everything ughhhh. I just need to finish buffing the whole car. There's still some spot that I missed and I would rather wait until I'm finished with the buffing process before I put the trim pieces back on again. I'm also going to plasti dip the chrome pieces as I HATE chrome!

I could get the rear slightly lower, more than 1.5" if I wanted but I reckon it would go down a little bit once the interior is back in. Else I can always go slightly lower at the back.

So here's a quick to-do list:

- coat the entire under body and wheel wells with anti rust stuff
- add a couple of wires for future use (power mirrors, power trunk release, alarm etc)
- reassemble the interior
- clean/paint misc trim pieces
- plasti dip chrome shit
- axle boots
- wheels
- DRIVE THE CAR DAMNIT

Dr_Snooz
10-27-2013, 07:43 PM
This build rocks!

Hazwan
10-28-2013, 04:16 AM
You think?! :D

More PICS!

Buffing done. Finally haha

Assembled most stuffs. I still gotta paint some trim pieces and I'm gonna plasti dip my chrome trims black since I hate chrome!
http://i.imgur.com/ShFKfjH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Uy9V9gE.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KEkQK6L.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WFvDAv8.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LkSUbNo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5EeciEk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xl2bjiC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QmhRdrw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/713FHCr.jpg

Hazwan
10-28-2013, 04:16 AM
God I hate this 10 pics limit.

http://i.imgur.com/vGRcUI4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5luFGBd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nwfrycg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/inGbqXM.jpg

12 hours+ worth of wet sanding and buffing hard work pays off haha

I think its too low to my liking haha. I'm going to raise the front up a little
http://i.imgur.com/EtvI7Ek.jpg

Cleaned and polished the bumper lens. Before at the bottom obviously. So much better :D
http://i.imgur.com/TQn5pYL.jpg

2ndGenGuy
10-28-2013, 01:18 PM
Looking so good man! Can't wait to see it all back together!

A18A
10-28-2013, 02:14 PM
moar maor moar moar moar moar moar moar moar

Hazwan
10-28-2013, 09:12 PM
Did somebody say MOAR PICS???????

Most of the interior pieces is back in. Carpet was pressure washed and it was nasty! Seats aren't perfect but I'll worry about that later (when I have the money hah)

http://i.imgur.com/JAcDhn3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7vQqzun.jpg

Mirrors are black for now. I'm retrofitting something else with power folding function. Besides I HATE the way they look now.
http://i.imgur.com/Pv2R1Gr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kegQw1M.jpg

Raised the front 1/2" inch and rear lowered another 1/2". Looks like I could use another 1/2" at the back to make it even but I'll focus on that later when I get the top hats and related pieces done. Wheel gap at the front looks alright but rears could definitely use another 1/2" lower. I'm also playing around with the idea of getting 16" wheels to fill the gaps better. Or stay with 15" but with thicker 195/55/15 tires. Not sure if I like the chunkier rubbers though.

http://i.imgur.com/LH7GUTH.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5gJXFFf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2MTjWrd.jpg

Went out for a drive around the neighborhood and it felt.. alright. Stiffer than stock obviously but theres no bounce surprisingly?! Steering felt weird but then that can be expected since I need to get an I'm pretty sure it would be a lot better once I get the shocks stiffened and top hats extended. I was surprised at how well it rides right now.

A18A
10-28-2013, 09:58 PM
i jelly of paint

2oodoor
10-29-2013, 06:18 AM
SWEET! that is a great shade of red too

2ndGenGuy
10-29-2013, 02:14 PM
Hawtness!

Dr_Snooz
10-29-2013, 06:29 PM
I can hardly believe it's the same car!

Hazwan
10-30-2013, 06:33 AM
Yeah me too! I can't wait to get all my trims blacked out and reinstall. And new wheels. And and and... Shit I need money now. Somebody buy my accord now?

BTW I had my axle boots replaced by a shop today. I didn't want to get my hands dirty with nasty grease and crap and replacing them with brand new remanufactured unit just won't make any sense as these are the original ones and they still work perfectly fine. Only the boots are torn.

Did I mention that it cost less to replace all 4 boots and paying people to do it than replacing them with crappy reman units? Labor here is cheap so might as well take advantage of that. Fuck grease all over myself nope nope.

I'm still trying to figure out why it won't idle properly and would stall randomly while in gear. Sometimes. Which is weird. It would idle fine at 900ish RPM in gear with no signs of stalling but sometimes it would instantly drop down to under 600 and dies. Wtf I'm lost here. I can't find any vacuum leaks. Tried spraying everywhere with carb spray. RPM did not go up unless I sprayed over the carb mouths which obviously it would do that duh.

I had to set the idle at 1500 else it would drop to 600 and eventually dies when it's in gear and with my foot on the brake. Booster was bypassed and its still doing it so it rules out leaky booster. It also smells lean.

I hate carbs.

I have yet to set my timing properly (need to borrow a timing light first) but I consider myself to be experienced enough to set the timing with a vacuum gauge and by ears except I ran into troubles with the engine knocking when I had the timing set right (at least to my ears) and it retarding the timing till it won't knock would cause the engine to run like shit? I know I really should get a timing light but what kind of gas do these engine need stock? I wonder if shaving the head twice had bumped my compression a lot and requiring higher octane gas? No idea how much was shaved but I doubt it's that much but then remind me to get a timing light again tomorrow lol?

This is so frustrating :(

Hazwan
11-07-2013, 01:56 AM
Apparently my timing belt is off a tooth. Fixed that and the idle is so much better but my dizzy is shot so I'm still waiting to get my Accord sold so I can get a new dizzy and coil and hopefully some other mods and stuff done to the lude.

Can't and I don't wanna bother rebuilding the dizzy because I can't get the bottom cover screw thing that sits under the vacuum advance bearing off and its pissing me off. The bearings are frozen but I fixed that by spraying some penetrating oil to it. I'm pretty sure the mechanical advance is gone too. I could have fixed it if it wasn't for the stupid screws hah! Shaft has some play and replacing the bottom bearing is not gonna be easy so eff that I'll just get a new dizzy.

Idles alright now but i could be better. Found out that my coil is leaking a little bit too >< And I went through 20 liters worth of gas in less than 100km LOL stupid thing. But then I did WOT run half of the time and idles probably for more than 30 minutes from me trying to tune the carbs before I realized that my ignition timing is way off and apparently the timing belt is off a tooth. Yay me >

Anyway pics!!

Color matched and installed the CB7 side skirts.
http://i.imgur.com/8UGIKiu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/do7P9nX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Oouu2IV.jpg

Also painted my valve cover
http://i.imgur.com/Ns9VPeb.jpg

Its green!!
http://i.imgur.com/XuayESW.jpg







Nah jk it was just a base coat for the pearl blue layer. Looks kinda teal from some angle but appears blue most of the time. Its sick!
http://i.imgur.com/PiC0h9M.jpg

Hazwan
11-07-2013, 01:56 AM
Plasti dipped the chrome trim pieces black. Did I mention that I HATE chromes?
http://i.imgur.com/75AjYqB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Dj7MTPC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QIhj9qX.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GfMQuFy.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mB7Yf5f.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NZpelpM.jpg

They look so much better in black :D

Went with plasti dip route this time as it sticks better to chrome without much prep work. Try and paint any chrome bits with regular paint and you'll know what I mean!

79cord
11-07-2013, 04:21 AM
Certainly shows the effort that's gone in to it, beautiful.

AccordB20A
11-08-2013, 02:36 AM
i like the chrome on my accord. But on a red car like the prelude it looks goood black.

2oodoor
11-08-2013, 03:44 AM
Looks way better in black, nice work. Is that clear coat on the red? Its super wet looking good, if not then what are you using on it after you bbuffed and wetsand??

2ndGenGuy
11-08-2013, 11:41 AM
Looks great. You missed some chrome on your tailz though. :P

Hazwan
11-09-2013, 06:45 AM
Certainly shows the effort that's gone in to it, beautiful.

Thanks! Took me over 6 weeks from start to finish. And I work on it at least 6 hours a day if not more :o


i like the chrome on my accord. But on a red car like the prelude it looks goood black.

Yes they work on grey or dark colored cars but definitely not on something bright like this. IMO chrome belongs only on classy/luxury cars not on something like this.


Looks way better in black, nice work. Is that clear coat on the red? Its super wet looking good, if not then what are you using on it after you bbuffed and wetsand??

Yeah theres clear coat. There are 4 layers actually: primer, base, pearl and clear. Total of 9 layers at least if not more but yeah nothing special were used just some regular rubbing compound and polish. Tempted to try some expensive higher end stuff but can't afford shit right now. Besides it already looks this good gloss wise. Not too happy with the panel straightness honestly but I guess this is as good as a home made paintjob can get with limited amount of money and equipment :(


Looks great. You missed some chrome on your tailz though. :P

Yeah still debating if I should leave the chrome there or black that out too.

I seriously think that I need the black side and bumper molding to break off the red. I think its too much red now!

Oh and some guy were supposed to come over on Sunday (tomorrow) and look at the Accord but then he was supposed to reconfirm that hes coming over on Friday. Except its almost Sunday now..... I was hoping that I could get it sold by then since I seriously need some cash right now. Lude is going to be parked for a while since I don't feel like driving this stupid 12mpg until I get the ignition and carb issue fixed.

Speaking of that, I was trying to fix the dizzy play earlier. Found a brass bearing? on top just under the rotor and theres a serious amount of play right there. Bottom bearing is fine it was just the top ones where the shaft is wobbling so bad that it was touching the reluctor thinggy. Explains the crappy idle and shitty gas mileage. I replaced the bearing and theres an even gap all around on the reluctor and nothing is touching. All is good except when I reassembled everything back together, I broke off one of the wires just inside the reluctor and there is absolutely no way that it can be fixed so yeah its gonna be parked until I can afford to get another dizzy. Gotta love that!

hondalude86
11-12-2013, 06:45 PM
Daaamn son! Two things... I knew it had to be timing related... second, your English is better than almost everyone who lives stateside. Badass. I don't think I would even try and read this if your English was all fucked up!

AccordB20A
11-12-2013, 10:16 PM
i like this (Y)

2ndGenGuy
11-13-2013, 04:15 PM
It's so TE8.

Hazwan
11-13-2013, 11:21 PM
Daaamn son! Two things... I knew it had to be timing related... second, your English is better than almost everyone who lives stateside. Badass. I don't think I would even try and read this if your English was all fucked up!

Ha! My English is far from being perfect but I'll try to use proper grammar and such haha. You gotta excuse the wall of text that I tend to do in my replies. I like explaining shit even though I suck at explaining things so most of my posts probably won't make any sense.

Speaking of timing. New dizzy (but not timed with a timing light. yet) and its still doing that 400rpm drop except the idle is soooo much smoother and quieter. It used to pop every once in a while in the exhaust. Kinda sounds like its missing. I'll recheck the timing and see if that fixed it. Else I'll just accept the fact that the autotragic transmission is probably on its way out. Yay excuses to get a 5 speed swap quicker!


It's so TE8.

Quoting A18A: te8 as! Still no idea what that means lol

Anyway updates!
My alternator has been acting up since the first day. The belt would screech during start up. New belts, cleaned the pulleys. Nothing. It would still screech under high load and during first start up. It also made this growling/clunking noise every once in a while. I replaced the bearings and brushes. That didn't fix it. Apparently the housing has worn out, allowing the bearing to move freely and causing some play and making that stupid noise. I've decided its not worth to even try and fix it anymore so I went and look for a replacement.

I recall seeing the stock alternator being the similar shape and size as the one in my 81 Accord. I had my Accord converted with a late 80s(?) Nissan Sentra alternator. They came with internal regulator and have slightly higher output - I think its 65A or something I don't remember.

http://i.imgur.com/1lRrOUq.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TUx3Ou1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/y9LrfcK.jpg

Went to the yard earlier and snagged an alternator. I'm not 100% certain what its off but its the same unit as the B11 Sentra that I had in my Accord. Everything lines up except for the bottom bracket being slightly wider but can be spaced with a washer without any issues.

Pulley lines up properly but I'm not sure of the market differences. Mine has V-belt for both in my Prelude and the one I got from the Sentra. I believe I've seen pictures of them on the internet with ribbed belt pulley.

http://i.imgur.com/kg5dxwB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZBvacxO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mp2rxPp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/75BEl0N.jpg

Anyway it works. No more noises! It charges at a healthy 14.5v during idle and headlamps on and A/C blower on fully blast. My A/C didn't work though.

Best part of all, it only cost me $20 for the alternator :D

I still need to figure out the wiring as the stock warning light on the dash won't come off when the engine is running.

The alternator needs 3 wires. 1 goes to the battery (main charging cable), another one as "S" or sense. It should sense the battery voltage and bump up or reduce the charging output while trying to maintain 14.5v at all times. Another one goes to the charging light on the dash. Not sure what I did wrong but it won't go off with the engine running. I did hook the wire directly to a T10 bulb and the other side to the battery and it works like it should. I don't recall doing much with my Accord but I'll keep this thread updated!

Hazwan
11-13-2013, 11:25 PM
I also found this CVCC ET (ES??) carb for cheap and the same seller also has 2 distributors for sale. So I snagged them all for around $100! Not bad since a brand new reman distributor is going to cost me almost as much! I get a new unused remanufactured dizzy. One used dizzy that still works good and a complete CVCC carb assembly. Not sure if the carbs would work on mine but I only get them just to salvage some good parts out of it

CVCC carb is essentially a twin carb with a tiny little carb in the middle for the CVCC. I believe the 2 main carbs are jetted leaner than the non-CVCC motor but I need to reconfirm this once I tear them apart.

http://i.imgur.com/Vrtcid3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/swDYWrU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ciZ2QaJ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/K4wyxfO.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/p2rtf9s.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hATr6Wn.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WBZc12B.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/uHNvdbU.jpg

Check out that cute little throttle plate!
http://i.imgur.com/MyaAROy.jpg

79cord
11-15-2013, 01:50 AM
Well you will know better what to expect when/if you attack your cars carburetors now anyway.
New alternator still sounds tempting for my car just to eliminate external voltage regulator from the engine bay!
You also reminded me of an article I once read suggesting some late '80's GM cars (&others) included switching to stop the alternator (& air conditioner?) whilst at full throttle to give you more power.

Hazwan
12-02-2013, 04:36 AM
Been having issues with my never-ending milky engine oil issue. It has to be a small leak on the headgasket (unlikely) or crack on the block or head. I don't feel like fixing the current engine so I poured a bottle of K-Seal in the coolant and that fixed it. Oil stayed clear and coolant level stays. Previously my overflow bottle would be empty and radiator level would go down a little bit after a short drive and oil would turn milky and dipstick level goes up by 5mm above the full mark. Doesn't take a genius to figure out where my coolant goes :(

I know that K-Seal isn't a permanent fix. It says so on the bottle but I doubt it would last long but I would be more than happy if it would last for a few months at least until I could get another engine.

Depending on what I could find, I probably would get a replacement ET or ES to drop in or if I could find one cheap enough I'll probably would build it with A20A bottom end.

We'll see what I could find and hopefully my current engine would last till then!

Found a set of CE28 reps for cheap and I just can't pass it so I... bought them ><

http://i.imgur.com/t676Iuh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/e1MdUty.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aVRwm7d.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ekyEJzi.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8HHctZd.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/90KKCcV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/R0Q3hb1.jpg

Wasn't even sure why I wasted my money on these instead of saving them for another engine but I guess I just can't stand the look of the old wheels and a steelies at the back.

Tdurr
12-03-2013, 12:51 AM
I love thid thing bro. Also, that driver side front tire has a boubble in the sidewall. Get it replaced, because it could blow out over a hard bump.

Hazwan
12-03-2013, 03:35 AM
OMG I was hoping nobody would be able to tell hahah but I did get it replaced this morning. I had to settle with 4 used tires for now and I did not notice the bubble till late. Did not see them when I was inspecting the tires before they mounted them.

2oodoor
12-03-2013, 04:05 AM
Very nice! It would look good parked at my house :)

Hazwan
12-03-2013, 07:31 AM
I think it looks good parked anywhere :D

Anyway finally got around fixing the rear ride height. I couldn't get the adjusters low enough as it was interfering with the stock lower spring perch.
http://i.imgur.com/AZqse2Q.jpg

Ew look at how much travel is wasted by that stupid top hat! I could gain at least 2" if not more if I move the mounts on top instead of sitting at the bottom. Too bad I can't just flip the hats as they're angled. I might fabricate something in the future.

Lower spring perch cut
http://i.imgur.com/mwohzLT.jpg

Sleeve mounted
http://i.imgur.com/euxukE6.jpg

Done! You can see the angle I was talking about on the top hat here
http://i.imgur.com/fh4zBnz.jpg

Moved the adjusters down about 1/2" and got the car sitting even! Better pics tomorrow as it was getting dark. You can somewhat see what the paint really looks like in this pic
http://i.imgur.com/3MuXMyf.jpg

And no, I'm not touching the fronts. Its a good compromise between factory ridiculous 4x4 and not being too low that I can't drive it anywhere! They're staying this height.. forever lol.

Can't believe its the same car, 4 months ago :eek:
http://i.imgur.com/ke1ezbG.jpg

Tdurr
12-03-2013, 07:58 AM
Lol I saw that on my cell too. Idk why but I notice tire problems easy. But thats a crazy transformation man! You have a problem... and I love it :)

Clockworkz
12-04-2013, 12:08 AM
What's the paint code that you ended up using? Its absolutely gorgeous!

Hazwan
12-05-2013, 07:42 AM
Its Sunburst Orange Pearl YR-589P. Still not sure why its called orange when it looks a lot like red to me :lol:

Civic Accord Honda
12-05-2013, 03:12 PM
so much sax. needs more rax USDM

79cord
12-06-2013, 03:11 AM
Beautiful new wheels. Always encouraging to be able to see where the money went.. Ride height looks great, you don't need it cripplingly low.
Co-incidentally I got silly buying a 2nd hand set of similar (but probably worse quality) 'Civic' springs & adjustable/threaded mounts.. just need to figure out how & what they might be made to fit...

Hazwan
12-06-2013, 06:40 AM
Its sad because that money could be spent on getting a new engine but instead I wasted them on wheels lol. But yeah ride height is just where I want it. I had enough with riding too low. I think the wheels are too small for the car though. Or should I go with 195/55/15 tires instead? Currently they are 195/50/15 for rears and 185/55/15. Yes I have mismatching size but I'd rather running with narrower 185/55 than a bubbling 195/50 tire >< I bought the tires used and they doesn't have anything else matching in pairs. Yes I am that broke that I have to buy used tires :lol:

These 88-00 Civic coilover sleeve should fit a 1g Accord as well. I did the same as I did with the rears on my lude on the front Accord struts before but never installed them on my car so I don't know how well it worked. Measurement wise they're the same. I believe they share the same rear strut for both 1/2g Accord and 1/2g Ludes?

Random video of the exhaust: MVI 3109 - YouTube (http://youtu.be/gIrJNJWAKtM) Is it bad that I'm growing to like the sound of it? :rice:

79cord
12-06-2013, 10:27 PM
I had higher profile tyres on the back of my CR-X when I got it and really liked that look, & at the back it wouldn't affect speedo & gearing... Will be experiencing some 2nd hand tyres soon since I bought 2(!) sets of low profile 15" tyres from a garage sale down the road from an old guys boat trailer....(hope that goes well). So I'll finally be able to use the bargain Mugen RNR wheels I bought several years ago!.. Still not sure what on though..
Glad to hear springs might fit Accord, I have some of the Old stock Koni inserts to use as well.. Have to see which struts are unhealthiest to cut up since I have some spares.. Had also found some old Toyota Sera (Starlet gullwing coupe) frt struts on a nature strip down the road I had considered experimenting with.
Not sure how important it might be but my spring set didn't come with the upper platform some seem to. & surprised all 4 springs look the same.
But I have to put '88 integra on road first & do something about Accords unhealthy engine & g/box.

Hazwan
12-15-2013, 04:18 AM
Redrilled the UCA holes trying to correct that retarded amount of negative camber from 2"ish drop. Factory adjustment wasn't enough.
http://i.imgur.com/5mI4luT.jpg

Added another 5mm of adjustment. Not sure how much that translates to degrees.
http://i.imgur.com/vEmJP36.jpg

No more retarded negative camber! By retarded I mean excessive amount of negative camber. Must be more than 3 degrees because it literally looked like / \
http://i.imgur.com/O01CWBd.jpg

Looks more like -1 to -2 degrees right now. I still need to get a proper alignment so it was just a rough estimate for now.

Pic sitting next to my Accord :D
http://i.imgur.com/GEqnjNx.jpg

I need a proper shoot. Except I'm lazy to do it alone. I need friends lol

Things that still needs to be fixed
- New engine lol
- Something carb/ignition related random misfire that I can't get rid of. hg related?
- A/C leak somewhere around the compressor. Possibly more :( Expensive fix grr
- Missing 3rd pedal (lol auto)
- Exhaust leak
- Interior needs some love
- Stereo. Still debating if I should reuse my carPC setup from my Accord or stick with something conventional or go with an Android setup

hondalude86
12-17-2013, 06:17 PM
Cars are looking good buddy! I'm pumped about the progression of your lude!!! and everything has gone so fast!

Hazwan
12-22-2013, 05:19 AM
So much things to do, so little money :( Progress could be a lot faster if it wasn't for the cash grrr

Anyway keeping the same "I have no money but I still want to build car(s)" thing I had since my Accord, I've acquired these generic yellow fogs for free. They didn't come with any brackets so I had to fabricate them to mount them on the stock location. Made the brackets out of aluminum piece, shaped them and painted black.

http://i.imgur.com/oBAV6Ch.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hJtk3Aw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/S6KXSwq.jpg

Non Si bumper support, bracket bolted to the bumper support
http://i.imgur.com/47f41UQ.jpg

Installed!
http://i.imgur.com/8UOzU3T.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ey6nbLY.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/m7wNp6B.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dvGf2YV.jpg

That bumper sag in the corner is pissing me off
http://i.imgur.com/wmZPr0A.jpg

I have the wires running to them in the bumpers from the fusebox when I painted the car but never hooked them to a switch so I'm gonna find something to use as a switch. I might just mod the cruise control button or something.

I also need a lip grrr

AccordB20A
12-23-2013, 07:31 PM
looks good tho with the fogs. i also need a lip

Hazwan
01-10-2014, 08:45 AM
I swear this thing is cursed. I was trying to install an oil pressure gauge trying to monitor the engines health but I've been facing with all kind of troubles from day 1. Obviously my aftermarket gauge sender won't fit into the stock oil pressure light since it's 1/8 NPT. Ordered a brass T and misc fittings wanting to remote mount both senders on the firewall nope managed to break the T while tightening the fittings. No i did not over tighten and broke the threads. My wrench poked a hole on the T itself :banghead:

So I said scratch that idea and bought a sandwich plate. Only to find the extender stud thing didn't sit flush so it's not 'sandwiching' the plate properly causing some leaks. I also found out that the sender works properly according to my DMM except my gauge doesn't even move from 0

Then managed to pull the stock oil filter threaded thing out from the housing with the extender still attached. Ruined the threads while trying to get the extender off.

Bought a jy oil filter housing no biggie. But all that work only to find the stupid gauge is dead!

Random pics since nobody reads that wall of texts up there. No pics of the sandwich plate installation tho

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/7erybanu.jpg

Ignore the missing 3rd pedal and silly looking gear shifter. Hate that shit

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/te8epy4u.jpg

Also, this happened last week:
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/9y3u4yde.jpg

Blame the blown headgasket issue and running with contaminated oil and coolant for too long. The same reason why I'm having a rod knock right now too, which leads me to want to install an oil pressure gauge. Fucking hell it's all that tard fault for overheating this engine grrr

A/C was fixed. Old compressor was leaking from every single possible part and its way more economical to replace the whole unit. Along with some misc deteriorated rubber hoses. Wasn't cheap tho but fixing one things at a time.....

Some shit that still need to be fixed:

- engine
- it's an automatic
- random misfire that i can't get rid of - again, new engine should fix that lol
- stupid alternator pulley alignment isn't 100% so it creates a bunch of belt dust under full load
- I don't trust this thing to be reliable enough at highway speed. I felt like I'm going to throw a rod if I'm going over 3k rpm lol
- it's an auto

hondalude86
01-10-2014, 04:08 PM
I'll tell you this... the reason the belt alignment sucks is because the lower bracket (to block) for the alternator is misaligned. Honda used a should style bolt to help align the bracket (and give it strength maybe?) And/or dowel pins. Its the two 14mm bolts that go into the block l... at least worth a try

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Tdurr
01-11-2014, 10:16 PM
I like them gauges. Sucks u did a bunch if a run around to find out the gage is busted tho. And what oil sandwich plate did you use? Im in the same boat with it being to short.

Hazwan
01-16-2014, 03:22 AM
I'll tell you this... the reason the belt alignment sucks is because the lower bracket (to block) for the alternator is misaligned. Honda used a should style bolt to help align the bracket (and give it strength maybe?) And/or dowel pins. Its the two 14mm bolts that go into the block l... at least worth a try

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

I think mine has a lot to do with the alternator being made for a Nissan instead of the stock replacement haha! I think I need to realign the bottom bolt/bracket better but I noticed that I could spin my water pump pulley while I was trying to tighten the bolts which means the belt isn't tight enough even though I can barely push the belt for any deflection at all?! Tightened the belt a little bit more till I can't spin the water pump pulley anymore and bam no more smoking or dust in idle even with A/C, headlights and fogs turned on :D


I like them gauges. Sucks u did a bunch if a run around to find out the gage is busted tho. And what oil sandwich plate did you use? Im in the same boat with it being to short.

Its ebay sandwich plate. Quality looks alright to me. I think it was just our engines have the oil filter stud being too long compared to other cars? I know a lot of people with ebay sandwich plates and they work just fine. No leaks even.

I noticed the extension stud thing bottoms out few mm before its sitting flush with the plate. Maybe I should cut the stock stud a little but I don't feel like taking the stud out again!

Also pic of the car lol
http://i.imgur.com/QIjnqoG.jpg

Tdurr
01-17-2014, 07:53 AM
I used a ebay one before and it screwd on just fine... I just want a longer screw to be happy

hondalude86
01-18-2014, 03:58 PM
That is one very sexy lude... I will say that I don't like the spoiler...

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

AccordB20A
01-20-2014, 12:46 AM
you need a b20a and manual conversion for this.

Hazwan
01-20-2014, 07:31 PM
That is one very sexy lude... I will say that I don't like the spoiler...

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

I didn't like it at first but its growing on me. Whoever removed the factory ducktail spoiler needs to be shot though!


you need a b20a and manual conversion for this.

I KNOW GRRRRR

Anyway I went out for PICS today woot!

http://i.imgur.com/Na7n03p.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KaH5FxA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8MIfbtP.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8UFy66N.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zleuQNS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KWB48qL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5RiQm1Q.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bcO9cHu.jpg

2ndGenGuy
01-20-2014, 10:38 PM
So sexy!

AccordB20A
01-22-2014, 08:37 PM
i like! now come do mine

Hazwan
01-25-2014, 07:23 AM
Trade with 5 speed B20A and I will (Y)

Speaking of that I *might* be able to get a complete 3g Accord with B20A manual but I wasn't too sure about going with that route yet. Engine parts aren't that easy to come by here and I would hate having to wait weeks or months having shit to be ordered and crap. I don't know I still gotta decide that later......

Anyway if you guys remember my CB7 front lip attempt on the base bumper
http://i.imgur.com/zFgSMXm.jpg

It didn't fit the Si bumper because its too short. I finally got around extending the side of the lip and made the curve to fit better and here's the result:

http://i.imgur.com/zI7XCsw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JIKOJkK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nJ40U09.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2rfk2q4.jpg

Made the front end look 9000 times better!

Also snagged these Si window switches at the yard today, just because they look cool :D

http://i.imgur.com/iXLx5iE.jpg

Installed!
http://i.imgur.com/YTEwnzF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/AHbMWEz.jpg

Ignore my shitty door panel. I have yet to find one in good condition(N)

Not a plug and play deal since BA chassis has different door harness connectors but I managed to made them fit by resoldering the AB window switch wires on this. Same wire colors and everything, just different connectors

I still need to find some power folding mirrors that would fit. I don't want the stock folding power adjustable ones as they don't have power folding function but that can wait :tongue:

Total cost for both mods: $0.00

Hazwan
02-11-2014, 06:09 AM
This is so fucking retarded. My engine oil turned white again. 2ndGenGuy mentioned about stretched head bolts which made sense. Except I don't see spending about $70 for 10 bolts, new headgasket, machining the head, and that would cost about $150 total easy. I did however retorqued the head bolts to 60lb/ft and milkshake disappears on the dipstick but theres still traces of them on the head:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31/1669655_10151958399847106_1338194684_o.jpg

That can't be residual since I went for a long drive (about 200km total) and it should been running warm and long enough to burn off any old moisture in oil. I also lost about 2 liters of coolant.

I don't know if trying to fix this cursed thing is a good idea at all. I mean I already spent so much money on engine oil alone - 4 oil changes in less than 1000km, new rod bearings, 2 new headgaskets, 2 new intake and exhaust gaskets, oil pan and vc gasket, misc bits and pieces and that totals around $250 easy. AND ITS STILL NOT RUNNING RIGHT

Went looking for a replacement engine and found this mint low mileage A18A from an Accord. Except I now realized that it has different intake ports than my ET so simplly replacing the old carb and shit back on the new long block is not gonna be an option. I am looking for a quick and easy drop in swap without having to deal with any BSes except thats not going to be the case here. They also wanted about $600 for the long block alone.. which is a ripoff. I was trying to just ignore the price and get it because it was so mint and worth the money since I wouldn't have to worry about anything for at least another 120k miles easy except nope my fucking luck.

Can't find any other ET for sale here either -__-

Whats even worse is I found a 3g front clip with automatic B20A.. for about $1k. Except I don't have that much money and its gonna involve me fucking with some shit. Unless I can reuse the axles from the Accord? Its also an auto so thats a huge turnoff for me. If it was a manual then I'll just grab it and worry about the fi conversion and axles and crap later except its not. MY FUCKING LUCK.

I swear this thing is cursed from day 1. Theres a reason why it was free though.

Took bunch of pics last week but I'm not in the mood to post them all. Here's one though
http://i.imgur.com/eudItr1.jpg


If you guys remember how I wanted to quit with the Accord before.. this is one of the times where I just want to get rid of the car and probably stop working with anything with an engine or 4 wheels again. I always seem to have the worst luck with them :( People told me to get the car checked at a real mechanic. nope this mechanic told me that knocking noise was the intake/induction noise and I shouldn't worry about it. I then showed him the worn bearings and hes like "oh". HOW THE HELL AM I GOING TO TRUST THEM WITH MY SHIT? Having trust issues is not helping at all.

/fucking rant mode off

AccordB20A
02-12-2014, 12:29 AM
thats a lot of money for a b20a.
that plus shipping i could send you all the bits you need to make it work lol

Hazwan
02-12-2014, 02:30 AM
What other bits? That front clip basically came with the front t half of the car with everything I need. Except it's an auto

Dr_Snooz
02-13-2014, 09:24 PM
Three thoughts:

1. The paint and bodywork come last, after the drivetrain is solid. Starting with the pretty stuff is a newb mistake. Now you have to do an engine overhaul all across that lovely paint. Next time, don't be a newb.
2. Never trust a shop. Learn to do the diagnostic tests and fix what's wrong yourself. My dad's motto was, I may not be the best mechanic, but at least I care. And I can learn. Those are words I live by.
3. You can't massage away major overhauls. It was obvious from early on that the engine and carb had serious issues. Yeah, your buddy's friend's uncle was able to use some scavenged bearings, epoxy and motor honey to delay an engine rebuild for another 50k miles, and yeah, you can do that too, but it's no substitute for a proper overhaul. Especially when you are building a show car.

I know you look out in your yard and see what appears to be a completed project, but the reality is that you're smack in the middle. You want to drive your car around and show it off to all your friends, but you have work to do, son. Now go do it!

Hazwan
02-14-2014, 02:28 AM
Already on it sir! I've decided that I had enough BS with this engine and going with this minty low mileage A18A from a 3g Accord. Except I have to deal with the vacuum lines infested single carb but that should be temporary until I can source fuel injected parts. Dumping the twin crabs and yes I'm fuel injecting an A18A with various parts from other cars. Finding any pre 90 fuel injected Hondas here is a nightmare so I have to improvise. Building a standalone harness from something else - still undecided and I still don't know what ECU and shit that would work since I'm a fi noob.

I LOVE WIRING I'M NOT EVEN JOKING :D This is going to be interesting! Getting the engine this weekend hopefully and worry about the rest of the crap later. At least I know this engine is a good solid starting point.

But yeah I know what you mean with getting the drivetrain solid first. It was running good aside from minor carb/ignition issues but there were no knocks or any traces of milkshake when I first started the bodywork :( I thought it was fine. Problem started a few months after the bodywork is done. Stupid thing -__-

I never and can never ever trust any shop to work on my shit. EVER. That "induction noise" says it all.

Dr_Snooz
02-15-2014, 07:45 PM
Oh sh!t. Hazwan steps up! This build just got real interesting.

Hazwan
02-15-2014, 09:35 PM
5872

Fresh from the yard. Its been sitting there for who knows how long. Its a Japanese import engine. It's sooo mint its not even funny. I can't see any leaks on the outside. It looked dirty from sitting for so long but doesn't look too clean where someone just washed it either. Took a peek inside the oil filler cap and it looks super clean, started right up after 2-3 cranks too! They said they lost the mileage record but I wouldn't be surprised if its less than 100k miles

It's an A18A from an Accord which means I have to use the dreaded single carb with 342423 vacuum lines. I'm going to devac that thing as a temporary setup but like I said I'm going fuel injected later. Not sure if its going to fit under the hood but whatever as long as it runs fine, I'll worry about the rest of the shit later!

Gonna have it installed tomorrow at my buddies place since I don't have a hoist. Shit has 1 week warranty so I gotta me it count!

Now, making a bunch of research on devac the stock carb :ugh:

hondalude86
02-16-2014, 09:01 AM
Damn hazwan! Sometimes this shit just plain aint cheap. Just the other day I spent 700$ on cams. Some of these things take time, plain and simple.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

Hazwan
02-17-2014, 08:57 PM
Well at least that money is spent on making the car performs better than stock while I paid this much to make mine running like.. stock :( Oh well thats the price to pay for a free car.

Anyway so the engine was delivered to my place yesterday. Spent some time cleaning and replacing all the important and hard to reach seals while I'm at it

Doesn't look that special here. Typical corrosion and crap
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1547920_10151971421547106_813661699_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1412528_10151971421607106_750192699_o.jpg

This however, is the reason why I spent this much on a stock A18A. Figured its worth every penny. Should last another 120k without any major work easy
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1900563_10151971421797106_616032106_o.jpg

Of course nothing is perfect.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31/1798900_10151971421862106_1834918615_o.jpg

Water pump doesn't look that bad but I'm reusing the one in my ET since it was brand new
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1522535_10151971421877106_229247111_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1492631_10151971422142106_1931506727_o.jpg

HELP! THERES A SQUID LOOKING LIKE CREAT
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1556268_10151971421612106_1417333173_o.jpg

Replaced the oil filter housing o-ring. It doesn't leak (yet) but its a cheap insurance
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31/1782413_10151971422242106_1546102149_o.jpg

I honestly have no idea what I'm doing as I cut and yanked all the vacuum lines out. Seriously though I am forced to do it since the engine did not come with any control box/ECU and some thermovalve thinggy is broken and some random vacuum hoses were cut.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31/1899414_10151971436717106_444500770_o.jpg

We also don't need the emission equipment so I'm ditching the EGR and whatever the fuck else since I'm going to reuse my other exhaust manifold since its a 4-2-1 design vs this one being 4-1.

Hazwan
02-17-2014, 09:01 PM
MUCH BETTER! Hoping that it would run too lol
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1015410_10151971436747106_1840919428_o.jpg

Almost ready to pull the engine
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31/1781281_10151972828972106_1535679271_o.jpg

I DON'T WANT TO SEE YOU EVER AGAIN
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1911062_10151972829002106_1797742732_o.jpg

Filthy transmission. I didn't bother cleaning it the last time thinking I would do a 5 speed swap after everything is running after the headgasket repair. nope :(
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1796049_10151972829452106_1295448825_o.jpg

Most of the stuff out. All that left is the axle and mounts then it should be ready!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1622579_10151972829492106_1768355790_o.jpg

Doing everything all by myself ftw :D Except I kinda wished that I have friends that would help sometimes :( WHY do all the cool guys live on the other side of the world??

Tdurr
02-17-2014, 11:48 PM
I wished u liver here too game. But looks like solid progress! Keep it up man :)

A18A
02-18-2014, 01:13 AM
is it done yet

Hazwan
02-18-2014, 03:30 AM
I'm not you :( Can't do an engine swap in 2 hours

And you suck Tim -__-

Anyway I've got the engine out. Took me long enough -.-
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1613999_10151973227872106_416907129_o.jpg

Check out my sick engine stand!!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1932737_10151973227897106_1686871284_o.jpg

I had to do that else I wouldn't be able to separate the stupid autotragic transmission from the engine. Stupid thing grr I could have done the manual swap by now :(

I'm going to reuse the timing belt, water pump and the rest of the accessories
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31/1966349_10151973227892106_297758838_o.jpg

Now to separate the stupid transmission, all by myself..

Hazwan
02-19-2014, 05:55 AM
Its ready to go in! Took me long enough but transferring all the accessories plus buying some misc seals and shit and then coming home and realizing that they gave me the wrong part and having to back again took me the whole day pretty much. The actual swap is like 3-4 hours. Not bad for a first timer.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1932774_10151975172727106_1607143487_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1553508_10151975172822106_1793514645_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1606324_10151975172812106_95539403_o.jpg

DONE!!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1921191_10151975173082106_986154644_o.jpg

Cranks.. nope didn't start. I wasn't surprised. Stupid carb.

Took a peek inside the carb and looks like its not squirting gas when I pump the pedal. Probably clogged from it sitting for too long. And yes I could see the gas in the float bowl window so its getting gas.

Took the carb apart and gave it a good clean
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1781090_10151975173167106_103725175_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31/1559251_10151975173162106_1935169354_o.jpg

Float bowl looks pretty clean but the jets are all clogged. Sprayed with carb cleaner, nothing goes out. It all clears up after a through spraying and cleaning every single orifices. Reinstalled in car, started right up :D Idles smooth and I can finally idle at 750 compared to the old ET idling at 1400 lol

I can say the swap is done and I did not hurt myself or anything from the process :D Took me about 2 days to get it done.

Some fail though:

- oil pan drain plug is leaking -______- Now to drain all the oil and replace that stupid thing, again. Same thing happened on the ET too. New drain plug and crush washer. Started the engine, noticed some drips under the car as the car warms up. wtf?
- weird rattle near the A/C compressor area when it idles low under 800rpm. Sounds a lot like loose mount but every single bolts are tightened properly. I can't find the source of the noise omg!
- still unsure if the hood would close. It might close without the air cleaner though. Gotta figure out what to do with that. Definitely not cutting the hood

2oodoor
02-19-2014, 06:59 AM
So awesome Haz! Does that carb have the thick base heater thing? You could leave that out for clearance. I have an abs scoop you fan have but that would lok weird...too far back on the hood where the space is needed.

Hazwan
02-19-2014, 07:22 PM
I think the throttle linkage would hit the intake manifold if I remove the heater plate.

I've reinstalled the hood and it closes except I can't run an air filter because theres barely a centimeter of clearance between the carb and the hood. It also hit the hood when I'm shifting into R from P but then blame my busted rear mount. Yes I should have replaced that while I'm at it but I can't afford shit right now :(

Car runs and drives good though. I can definitely feel how it pulls less stronger than the twin carbed ET. It could be the carb and ignition timing but then who cares if its slower. Good running engine > faster but making all funny noises and milkshake engine oil.

I do have a question regarding idle control thing, how do they work? I'm thinking of putting it back since it idles too low in gear and the A/C on and yes I did have the A/C idle thing hooked up and its working properly if the engine is in neutral. Shift into neutral and my idle goes up to 1100rpm. Putting it in gear would drop it into 800 something which is still okay but as soon as I turned the A/C on it would drop down to 600 something.

A/C idle works fine, its now set at 1100 same as with the A/C off. Not sure if I'm missing something here?

Dr_Snooz
02-19-2014, 08:01 PM
Boy Haz, you don't mess around. Congrats on the running engine. If you got some of Cygnus' motor mounts, would that buy you some extra clearance?

Hazwan
02-20-2014, 05:42 AM
If I can afford it sure. But then I doubt it would even lower the engine by that much to clear the stock air cleaner. Besides its going to be temporary till I can get my hands on the fuel injection parts.

Tried it on anyway
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31/1926115_10151976875757106_934577871_o.jpg

Nope it touches the braces under the hood
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/p206x206/1912455_10151976875617106_632026518_n.jpg

Looks like I'm gonna have to do the mad JDM hood tilt :banghead:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1799162_10151976875712106_531169308_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31/1796101_10151976876082106_247215620_o.jpg

Gave me about 1/2" of clearance by doing that

Also flushed my coolant since I couldn't get all the oily crap from the radiator and I found this
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1911219_10151976876432106_473509387_o.jpg

Booo but oh well I guess I'll take rusty coolant over oily coolant/milky oil lol

One fail - 3g Accord temp sender reads lower than what 2g lude had. It reads 1/8 when the fan turns on and it was supposed to be in the 1/2 section like before and according to manual
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31/1962029_10151976876462106_334212602_o.jpg

Tried swapping the old sensor - nope it was stripped because it was stuck on the manifold real good -.- I need to fix this ASAP as I don't want it to read 1/2 and only find out that its already too late!

Took the car for a drive like usual. No funny noises or anything. Drives good but omg its so gutless now :( This thing being an auto isn't helping :( :crying:

2ndGenGuy
02-20-2014, 09:53 PM
Hey at least you can drive it now! Nice work on the quick swap!

Civic Accord Honda
02-22-2014, 06:24 PM
slow gutless automatic single carb a18 that runs properly > non properly running engines

AccordB20A
02-25-2014, 12:47 AM
will be reliable now tho.

Did you do a mechanical secondary on the carb or vacuum?

MessyHonda
02-25-2014, 08:13 AM
Yeah snooz is right. Paint job last after you make sure the engine works. But you are more than welcome to work on my autobody. I won't touch it because I'm too busy working And using it as a daily

Tdurr
02-25-2014, 10:29 PM
Haz I'm proud of your game. It's looking great. Glad u got this guy running, but deff get on the ball to get that temp sensor fixed man.

Hazwan
02-26-2014, 06:21 AM
will be reliable now tho.

Did you do a mechanical secondary on the carb or vacuum?

How much difference does mechanical secondary makes? I know it's supposed to improve the throttle response a lot but by how much? I'm running vacuum secondary right now. Knowing my luck my mechanical conversion would get stuck at the worst time possible and going loltoyota on me.


Yeah snooz is right. Paint job last after you make sure the engine works. But you are more than welcome to work on my autobody. I won't touch it because I'm too busy working And using it as a daily

It worked, sorta but then it got worse after few months I was done with the bodywork. And yeah I would love paint yours haha your rear door is pissing me off :lol:


Haz I'm proud of your game. It's looking great. Glad u got this guy running, but deff get on the ball to get that temp sensor fixed man.

You. -_-

Temp gauge was fixed I think. It was a bad connection on the sensor I think. Cleaned the connector and its reading correct now. Manual for both 3g and lude shows the same value for the sensor anyway so they should be the same.

AccordB20A
03-01-2014, 09:14 PM
at least if the secondarys mechanically operating you know its opening. How do you know your vacuum ones working? could be why the cars so slow. I didnt think A18A engines were that bad.


Dunno what the difference is. ive always ran mechanical because i hate vacuum lines and the carb is loud on WOT with the mechanical linkage.

Hazwan
03-02-2014, 03:50 AM
Its pretty loud at WOT but nowhere near as throaty as the twin carbs. Its about as loud as my accord and about as fast too lol. Not sure if I wanna do mechanical secondary as I'm keeping the A/C idle boost thing. I'll get a vid of it accelerating if i feel like wasting the petrol someday..

Speaking of that, I filled the tank the other day :o Something I haven't done since 6-7 years ago. No joke!
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/02/8anapeva.jpg

I never posted pics how I hacked the filter to fit
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/02/by2y8y8a.jpg

Had to remake the base to clear up the crap under it
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/02/u2ygu6yh.jpg

Mounted off center to use the stock stud on the carb as well as to mount it lower
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/02/egy3y2aj.jpg

Replaced one of the studs on the carb with longer ones and reused the stock wingnut to secure the filter :D
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/02/ja7y8ahy.jpg

Figured that chrome + green + red filter has to go so I repainted the chrome thing and red base to black
https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31/1622435_10151994483547106_728390674_o.jpg

So much better xD

All that work and it still hits the hood sometimes >< But its not that bad so I don't care

Tdurr
03-03-2014, 07:29 AM
Damn 6-7 yrs? Thats crazy

Hazwan
03-19-2014, 03:45 AM
Figured I'd update this thread. Nothing much happened since the past few weeks aside watching my fuel gauge going down REAL QUICK. Engine is doing great though!

A sneak peek of what to come:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/1798563_10152025691877106_576289367_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/v/t34.0-12/10006999_10152318779374804_1960494786_n.jpg?oh=bfa 66c897f9f24306ce847b679b41b4b&oe=532B2A9C&__gda__=1395348152_384b451b6ec93ec0eedf392cdeb5722 7

2ndGenGuy
03-19-2014, 07:39 PM
What shall we call this engine?

A18A3, or ET3?

Hazwan
03-25-2014, 03:22 AM
So I get 17MPG with the last fill up which is HORRIBLE. But then its 95% super short distance town driving with A/C on 90% of the time and doing under 60kph which rarely engaged the lock-up. I was expecting something like low to mid 20s. What made the devac'ed carb get such a worse mileage anyway? I'm guessing they are jetted slightly rich from the factory and all the emission crap made it run leaner? I gotta save up to get my fuel injected parts though!

Also bought a used set of 195/55/15 tires with 70% of tread life left for cheap to replace the mismatching 195/50 and 185/55 tires. They are meaty as hell. Fills the wheel gap and rides so much better but then having good set of rubbers might have contributed that.

Did an alignment with strings method. I didn't notice much difference driving wise but I did see feathered tread wear on the rear tires before. And yes I just eyeballed the front toe settings after I installed the coilovers before and there is no funny wear at all! Also added another 2mm on top of extra 2mm to the UCA balljoint holes to correct my horrendous negative camber. I have -0.9+/-0.5 all around which is perfect!

Anyway here are some PICS!!

http://i.imgur.com/kQ6CR6j.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/I0U3wS6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/f3LsAuF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Ye2eOFc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/x2dnDz2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VTLLEKm.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SzwvOOT.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/LFD9Hat.jpg

Meaty ass tires.. because fuck yo stance
http://i.imgur.com/Ye2eOFc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2TusA1Z.jpg

2ndGenGuy
03-26-2014, 08:48 PM
That really is just perfection right there!

Dr_Snooz
03-28-2014, 07:54 PM
Yay!!

79cord
03-29-2014, 02:18 AM
Does look great, showing your efforts well.
Best wishes for getting it running just as well.

Hazwan
03-31-2014, 03:52 AM
Thanks haha. I didn't expect the paintjob to turn out this nice but it did!! Didn't like the red at first but its growing on me.

Anyway I never posted pics of the interior because it wasn't up to my standards but then they can wait till I get everything else sorted out, like fuel injection or 5 speed swap. But here are some pics I took the other day:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/1973277_10152037790362106_35359245_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/1957950_10152037790392106_357938955_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/10005861_10152037790397106_2029014575_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/1064245_10152037790617106_2577729_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31.0-8/1974400_10152037790622106_1943945346_o.jpg

Its not too bad but the seats could use some help. My door panels aren't looking too good either. My headliner is pretty dirty and its torn up on the sunroof shade. I need some floor mats as well.

That missing pedal and stupid T shifter is killing it :lol:

I have no stereo.

Then I thought of reinstalling my old stereo/carputer from my Accord.

I have a problem with mounting the 7" screen since I have nowhere to integrate it without looking funny. I could get the EQ console but I can never find one locally and getting one from outside MDM land gonna cost a bit of $$$ and I hate waiting anyway. So I test fit the modded 2g Accord console I had in my 1g Accord:

https://scontent-b-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/t31.0-8/1939974_10152044375202106_1209715724_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/736825_10152044375197106_1664945108_o.jpg

https://scontent-b-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t31.0-8/1974101_10152044375567106_1284385679_o.jpg

It fits. Everything lines up perfectly. Except for the e-brake which isn't surprising since the armrest portion came from an EG Civic. The gap under the dash could use some help but no biggie
https://scontent-b-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc1/t31.0-8/1974101_10152044375567106_1284385679_o.jpg

Except that would mean my screen would be mounted way too low and its gonna be partially blocked by the shifter. AHHH!!

Hazwan
03-31-2014, 03:55 AM
Naturally, I had to make things fit. So I hacked the stereo console to accept my 7" screen.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/1836618_10152044375587106_160566006_o.jpg

I lose the ashtray in the process but then I don't really use it

https://scontent-b-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/t31.0-8/1979345_10152044375977106_337748724_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31.0-8/1618167_10152044375952106_604791809_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/614834_10152044376052106_233299770_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/977344_10152044693962106_865161716_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/1888911_10152044694007106_142295323_o.jpg

https://scontent-a-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t31.0-8/1025778_10152044694052106_1196100403_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/1974390_10152044694377106_78600960_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/914034_10152044694437106_1023447517_o.jpg

Hazwan
03-31-2014, 03:57 AM
Partially blocked by the shifter in P
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t31.0-8/914039_10152044694672106_87812819_o.jpg

All good in D
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/1537780_10152044694702106_1179755192_o.jpg

Not an issue really

But then as I tested the carPC on the bench.. My screen refused to power up. Apparently I broke the ribbon cable that leads to the controller board. So scratch that idea -___- What a waste of time blah!

Hazwan
03-31-2014, 04:05 AM
I test fitted my 7" tablet for lols and it actually fits :thumbup:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/10010199_10152046359497106_1815403974_o.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/1979225_10152046359577106_44627316_o.jpg

Looks like I'm going with the Android tablet route after all.

I didn't like the tablet route at first since it lacked the huge storage I once had with the PC (500gb internal HDD vs whatever max size the SD card I'm gonna be able to use, 64GB maybe?) I know I could hook up an external hard drive to that but then:

I can't really use the USB devices like rcjoycon that is hooked up to my Sony joystick remote commander thing while the device charges. It can be done but requires some software hacking which I lack the skill of doing so and the crappy Asus tablet that I have lacks custom ROM/software support so I'm fairly limited with what I could do to it.

Then theres the inteface issue. I don't really like how things aren't fully integrated. I miss the seamless integration Centrafuse front end software on Windows where everything is available in one application

But then the tablet's screen pwns my crappy ass 800x480 resistive touch screen in every way.

Oh well we'll see how everything goes.

Also I have spent like $20 in epoxy and supplies so yes I am cheap :lol:

zedries
04-02-2014, 06:55 PM
Great work Hazwan.

One of the guys on pp.com did a similar thing with his centre console and fitted a Double din GPS head unit but like you it needed heavy modding.

79cord
04-03-2014, 01:50 AM
I'm surprised you were able to resist for so long. Sad you had to give up upon the Car-puter.
Tablet does look easy at first but integrating it that neatly makes a big difference & I am sure you will overcome some of its functional difficulties.
Having driven in a friends 2g Prelude I'm impressed that Honda mounted the g/shift so high & close to the steering wheel & am tempted to investigate revising Integra to match, though obviously it adds to the difficulty mounting such a screen there without being obscured.

Hazwan
04-03-2014, 03:08 AM
Great work Hazwan.

One of the guys on pp.com did a similar thing with his centre console and fitted a Double din GPS head unit but like you it needed heavy modding.

Yeah I remember his car. I would do the same too if I have the EQ console to mess around with but sadly I only have this silly single din console with zero room to make it bigger without sacrificing the ashtray.


I'm surprised you were able to resist for so long. Sad you had to give up upon the Car-puter.
Tablet does look easy at first but integrating it that neatly makes a big difference & I am sure you will overcome some of its functional difficulties.
Having driven in a friends 2g Prelude I'm impressed that Honda mounted the g/shift so high & close to the steering wheel & am tempted to investigate revising Integra to match, though obviously it adds to the difficulty mounting such a screen there without being obscured.

Yes I noticed how close the shifter to the steering wheel but with it being an auto, I don't really feel the difference :( Can't wait for the 5 speed swap though! I figured with some custom short throw shifter, its gonna feel awesome!

Anyway I noticed that I have a small valve cover gasket leak near the corners. It was bad enough that it was dripping on the floor. So I figured why not redo the valve cover while I'm at it since I don't really like the blue anymore.

Old paint stripped
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/10014019_10152051161377106_1328238553_o.jpg

Primed
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/1492216_10152051161367106_505832240_o.jpg

Base
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/1961024_10152051161402106_2058046487_o.jpg

Cleared
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/t31.0-8/1920951_10152051161857106_1614809165_o.jpg

It was dry enough for me to get it installed but not 100% cured so I'm gonna let it 'bake' in the engine bay and have the raised parts sanded later
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/10015116_10152051489787106_665015673_o.jpg

Can't wait to get my FI parts to get rid of that silly green filter haha
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/t31.0-8/1909131_10152051489852106_14454891_o.jpg

https://scontent-b-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-frc3/t31.0-8/1913389_10152051489827106_1922882392_o.jpg

I'm going to repaint the engine bay body color when I do my 5 speed swap with some minor wire tuck after the FI swap so I'm gonna have to live with that stupid black paint for now. Going to polish some parts and its going to look sick! I hate my A/C hoses though :(

Oh and that tablet install has to wait till I could figure some stuff out.

apache07x
04-04-2014, 03:53 AM
The tablet could be a pretty cool option. Wire it up so it charges in the car all of the time. Androids are easy to hack on simple stuff. Root it and put a cpu governor on it so it slows it down real slow when it goes to sleep and shuts wifi and/or mobile network off when your not using it. Install a good equalizer on it, if it has network or you have good cell service you can make your phone a hot spot and hook to it wifi and still have radio. Lots of tweaks you can do without a custom rom.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Hazwan
04-06-2014, 06:05 AM
I need a good looking front end app or even a launcher that is car friendly that isn't half assed like 90% of them. I already have the tablet rooted and good idea with the CPU governor. I reckon it would last for more than 2 weeks in standby like that. I've seen people using Tasker to turn on the tablet when the car is running (ACC on, turns the charger and in turn turns the tablet on) and turns it off when the engine is switched off. Any other cool apps/tweaks you can recommend?

I don't like how I can't connect USB peripherals with the OTG cable AND charge the tablet at the same time without hacking the kernel to enable that feature, unless I'm missing something? Anyone??

I've also sanded the raised parts on the valve cover. Looking (Y)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/10007274_10152056541802106_3014731768988914911_o.j pg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/1606448_10152056541787106_5551824241810122_o.jpg

Now the rest of the bay needs to be in red too ><

AccordB20A
04-09-2014, 02:40 AM
"rocket" cover looks good. and yes you will need to remove that engine and paint that engine bay. use lots and lots of clear coats so it looks shiny as fux!

apache07x
04-11-2014, 05:57 PM
I need a good looking front end app or even a launcher that is car friendly that isn't half assed like 90% of them. I already have the tablet rooted and good idea with the CPU governor. I reckon it would last for more than 2 weeks in standby like that. I've seen people using Tasker to turn on the tablet when the car is running (ACC on, turns the charger and in turn turns the tablet on) and turns it off when the engine is switched off. Any other cool apps/tweaks you can recommend?

I don't like how I can't connect USB peripherals with the OTG cable AND charge the tablet at the same time without hacking the kernel to enable that feature, unless I'm missing something? Anyone??

I've also sanded the raised parts on the valve cover. Looking (Y)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t31.0-8/10007274_10152056541802106_3014731768988914911_o.j pg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/1606448_10152056541787106_5551824241810122_o.jpg

Now the rest of the bay needs to be in red too ><

I'm using dodol launcher on all of my stuff right now. It works on android 4.03 and up. It has some cool features like the ability to hide apps in your app drawer. I like that so you can hide stuff like super user and similar things you don't really use. I get awesome battery out of my phone (2 days) . Not so much on my tablet but there's not a lot of options with a nook tablet and I'd rather have a rom with Android 4.2 I can tweak and make the way I like with 2 to 3 days battery rather than the stock nook 2.3 system that sucks but has awesome battery life. Anyway here a screenie of my launcher.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/12/ry5yvy3u.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/12/ybu4azuz.jpg

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Hazwan
04-25-2014, 05:43 AM
I did get the tablet installed. Didn't get much detailed progress pics as I was too busy trying to make things work but its all installed and working great.

Its an Asus Memopad HD7 that I got for cheap while back. I wish theres modding support like the popular Nexus 7 but oh well.. I wish I could get the OTG to work while the tablet is charging but right now I'm limited to my 32GB MicroSD card. Not much I could cram into that considering almost all my music collections are in lossless.

I have a cigarette lighter USB charger hardwired to ACC so it would start charging and using this app called Tasker, I could create uhh.. tasks to turn on the tablet and resume playing my music when the ACC is on, and turn the display off, pauses my music and turns off all connectivity (wifi, bluetooth, gps) when the key is switched off.

Sound is connected via the 3.5mm stereo jack into an equalizer mounted under the dash (not visible in pics as it was hidden) and then goes to my 4 channel amp and that powers my 2 6.5" door speakers and 1x 10" sub.

Noone can tell what I have unless they look closely. Stealth install ftw!

Here are some pics!

http://i.imgur.com/mrWNAWC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ypdnzgw.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/q3a7j8j.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6qW6UDQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/v2fezSr.jpg

I'll get some videos of the whole thing in action someday

Right now I'm still not too impressed with the lack of good music player (by good I mean great car friendly UI) and how everything just don't seem integrated enough unlike my PC based carputer where I could run a front end software and it integrates everything - music, videos, GPS in one interface.

Screen location is a little bit low to my liking but its fairly usable. I am so used to the eye level view of the old setup in my Accord

I also need a bluetooth remote or something since controlling my music - volume, track etc is a bitch from the screen alone. I can't reuse the old Sony joystick remote as I has no free USB port. Technically I could use the USB but then I'm gonna lose the charging capability which is stupid!

apache07x
04-26-2014, 04:49 PM
Not sure what your looking for but this looks like it has a nice interface

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.lava.music

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

Dr_Snooz
04-27-2014, 07:33 AM
That is a beautiful install. Dang!

Tdurr
04-28-2014, 11:12 PM
looks pretty freaking game man! keep it up

Hazwan
05-12-2014, 05:13 AM
PICS OMG PICS

http://i.imgur.com/AtrhKJS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZBocb3b.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8bccUSn.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8og6gKL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xipuh5d.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VQTZ2tv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/d4VBNtq.jpg

Something is terribly off with the rear end. Not sure what but its bothering me. Exhaust? Tails? Spoiler?

AccordB20A
05-14-2014, 01:30 AM
its because its an AB prelude not a BA1

2ndGenGuy
05-22-2014, 06:10 PM
Hey cool stickshift!

Hazwan
06-08-2014, 03:27 AM
That 'stickshift' has fooled 6 people so far :lol:

Took some PICS today with my buddies CRZ

http://i.imgur.com/9fDQF8q.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3NLQa6C.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XgdxPkR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PYCBG3L.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hZ7oV0X.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nieAaJR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tpiwcqR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9kVhOen.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MZAvxl9.jpg

That thing is so fat compared to mine lol

scania360
06-08-2014, 06:27 AM
Fuyyooo...crz tu...
That normal..mostly now car design is obese-fat...
Can see in our country... :D

Dr_Snooz
06-08-2014, 07:11 AM
The styling of the CRZ looks so awkward compared to the old-school Prelude. The lines in the old cars, Hondas especially, were so intentional. They started logically at the front of the car and proceeded rationally to the end. Now designers put lines any old place, going every which way. They impart a schizophrenic feel to the design. The belt lines are too high. The entire shape is amorphous and bland. And lines go wherever.

Yuck.

Your car is rockin' though.

cygnus x-1
06-09-2014, 08:09 AM
The styling of the CRZ looks so awkward compared to the old-school Prelude. The lines in the old cars, Hondas especially, were so intentional. They started logically at the front of the car and proceeded rationally to the end. Now designers put lines any old place, going every which way. They impart a schizophrenic feel to the design. The belt lines are too high. The entire shape is amorphous and bland. And lines go wherever.


There are two reasons why car styling is not so great today: aerodynamics and crash safety. Most cars are bubble shaped now because that's the most aerodynamic form, and they need to be aerodynamic for fuel efficiency. Crash safety also means that the windows are shrinking (how do you see out of the back of that CRZ?) to make room for pillars stuffed with airbags. I fear before long we will be driving cars that have video displays and cameras instead of glass.

C|

Dr_Snooz
06-09-2014, 06:31 PM
I think the future involves the cars driving themselves. We will just be cargo.

Google's driverless cars to be allowed on roads after ministers rewrite Highway Code - Telegraph (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/10885236/Googles-driverless-cars-to-be-allowed-on-roads-after-ministers-rewrite-Highway-Code.html)

Oh BTW, the cars of the future won't have steering wheels or brakes either. What could possibly go wrong?

Hazwan
06-09-2014, 07:34 PM
The back window of that CRZ might as well not be there at all. I had to move the car around and I am so used to turning my head back and look outside the window. Not this time. That fatass C pillar and tiny ass quarter window isn't helping either. Its a small car compared to mine but then it feels bigger than it should have been.

scania360
06-09-2014, 08:14 PM
Crz=successor crx??

Very similar design...

Hazwan
06-10-2014, 03:22 AM
You can say that but I think the CRZ has lost its 'sportiness' of the original CRX

cygnus x-1
06-13-2014, 08:07 AM
I think the future involves the cars driving themselves. We will just be cargo.

Google's driverless cars to be allowed on roads after ministers rewrite Highway Code - Telegraph (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/motoring/news/10885236/Googles-driverless-cars-to-be-allowed-on-roads-after-ministers-rewrite-Highway-Code.html)

Oh BTW, the cars of the future won't have steering wheels or brakes either. What could possibly go wrong?



Oddly enough I would trust computers to drive better than most people.

C|

Dr_Snooz
06-14-2014, 06:50 AM
I have to agree with you. I keep inventing new swear words with which to curse the brain dead zombies who drive around here. At the same time, I'm acutely aware of how reporters' cars explode and crash under mysterious circumstances just before they print an explosive story about government corruption at the highest levels, and congressmens' planes have inexplicable mechanical problems and go down in the night if they turn maverick. Then I think about Google's CIA connections and realize that I'm not very excited about allowing them to drive me around in a car I can't control.

Hazwan
06-19-2014, 06:12 AM
I've decided to find something to work on for cheap if not free while I collect all the remaining 5 speed swap parts.

I did acquired a flywheel few days back though. Gonna pick up the shift linkage and pedals this weekend. Then I can start rebuilding the tranny and buy the rest of the parts like clutch, clutch cable, axle and misc other crap ($$$)
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/t1.0-9/s526x296/10437456_10152194734132106_6881288732695035689_n.j pg

So I've decided to turn my attention to my interior, mainly seats. The thigh bolster on both passenger and driver's side are basically flat from years of use. Driver's side bolster was fixed sometime ago by the PO so its still holding up

Passenger's side:
http://i.imgur.com/s8WN3PZ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3YqSAuG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pDNfGqV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/lfFnPO0.jpg

Driver's side:
http://i.imgur.com/mhCJOxM.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/KoI5PdD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Qbl30on.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6DSqs42.jpg

Hazwan
06-19-2014, 06:16 AM
I didn't get pics of the foam before or even the driver's side foam ><
http://i.imgur.com/FcGPsao.jpg

Had to resew this piece that were used to stretch/tighten the cover to the foam. idk what they're called but they're all ripped off making my covers look loose and shitty
http://i.imgur.com/5V8NqTb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mYFdRax.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bZzpFq2.jpg

I didn't get the rear seat pics but the cover was torn and I had to sew them back together lol

Washed them all while I'm at it and they're actually a lot cleaner than before! You wouldn't wanna see the color of the water that is coming off them lol

Total cost: $5.00

Here are some after pics:
http://i.imgur.com/eKoNx8i.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/5olRSi1.jpg

Hazwan
06-19-2014, 06:19 AM
Here are some pretty pics of the interior
http://i.imgur.com/BGoRcd1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SJIFJDk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/m8E7S43.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JSkhEhB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ObCNPTB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BQsvZWf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dZ60Bch.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Wc7VOiC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MKBwaE5.jpg

All that left now is the door panels. The adhesive somehow came off the vinyl and its looking real shitty now -_-

scania360
06-19-2014, 11:27 AM
Just finish read your thread...finally...
See so many thing you do for your car...

Cayalah...kagum saya tgk bro jaga kereta...
Dah berapa banyak rm habis kat kete ni bro...:)

scania360
06-19-2014, 11:34 AM
Another one...cool gearknob..
At first glance,looks manual tranmision...:D

Dr_Snooz
06-21-2014, 11:07 AM
You're pretty handy with the needle and thread there. Just another thing that Hazwan can do and the rest of us can't. LOL

Hazwan
06-23-2014, 05:51 AM
Meh I wouldn't say that. This is actually my first time sewing something too actually. It wasn't perfect but nobody is going to see what I did so its all good :D

So I've had enough of the bouncy and crappy ride from my ebay coilover sleeves. So I've decided to slap the stock springs back on. Not before I've chopped about 2.5 coils off. I know for sure that it won't ride as bad as the ebay coils as I had cut springs on my Accord and it was dumped and still rides okay. By okay I mean yeah sure its stiff but it doesn't bounce surprisingly. I guess you just have to know what you're doing and don't cut too much.

Boooooooo. I'm surprised my shocks didn't blow
http://i.imgur.com/g29rNtB.jpg

Stock spring with 2.5 coils off. Yes I painted it red for moar bling
http://i.imgur.com/uYPPsSf.jpg

Decided to give that drop fork mod a try
http://i.imgur.com/NRBCbJv.jpg

Took about 1/4" off. Wish I would have gone more but I don't wanna weaken the forks too much
http://i.imgur.com/pIjWKmt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2a7872B.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/t9qxDCD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zGpAzz5.jpg

Hazwan
06-23-2014, 05:55 AM
The result:
http://i.imgur.com/XT5GZJ6.jpg

I guess I am really good at guessing how much to cut from the springs to get the height I wanted :lol: Its about 1/2" higher than what I had with the ebay coils. 2 fingers gap now vs 1 before
http://i.imgur.com/3f6Kas2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kXnBLB8.jpg

I didn't like it. Looks jacked up to me so I did what a normal people would do, cut moar!! Oh no what have I done. I didn't get pics but I took another half coil off and its sitting perfect!!

Its not even that low but my jacks still won't fit
http://i.imgur.com/LK5Hsow.jpg

The result
http://i.imgur.com/uLEKVpf.jpg

Much better (Y)
http://i.imgur.com/qqzTgMD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UFQuzoC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ao8SPNA.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2l4JUft.jpg

I can't believe how much better it rides now. I can actually go through this bumpy road at 80kph vs 50kph max before else I probably would start losing control and ended up in the ditch or something.

So yes don't even bother with the generic ebay coilover sleeves. They suck. I kept trying to tell myself that they're alright but nope who am I lying to? They SUCK.

Hazwan
06-23-2014, 05:59 AM
In case you didn't notice, I didn't touch the rears. Because I already cut the lower spring perch off to fit the sleeves :uh:

I didn't mind the rear springs though, they're nowhere near as stiff as the fronts but still slightly stiffer than my front cut springs though. I'm pretty sure its gonna handle funny but I'll get that sorted out later.

Meanwhile I kept having this banging noise whenever I hit a bump hard enough from the back. Apparently the sleeves are hitting the top spring mount on full compression
http://i.imgur.com/RAFvkai.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8m9H4ZR.jpg

My angle grinder to the rescue!
http://i.imgur.com/2ULEPQp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wzTZY3u.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Mst3Ren.jpg

No more funny noises!

The rear springs are a lot softer than the fronts and I actually has a lot of travel left. It never hit my bump stop before, all it does it bang the top mount and sleeve together.

I might get a pair of fresh new struts for the back and put the stock (but cut) springs back on lol. Yes cut springs are bad ONLY if you don't know what you're doing. Cut springs > ebay coils anyday!

hondalude86
06-26-2014, 05:40 AM
Damn, Hazwan, you're badass

AccordB20A
06-30-2014, 03:16 AM
(y_

2ndGenGuy
07-03-2014, 09:06 AM
Nice!

Hazwan
07-07-2014, 07:24 AM
So do you guys remember this?
https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1.0-9/246652_10151085938497106_1293120032_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t1.0-9/66550_10151086669877106_400703329_n.jpg

It was an EG armrest hacked to fit into a 2g Accord center console which then were installed in my 1g Accord. OMG mix and match much??

Since I have sold the Accord and kept the goodies like the armrest and center console, I've decided to put the armrest to a good use. I tried fitting the whole 2g Accord console into the lude and it doesn't look right so I've decided to rip apart the armrest again and glass it on the lude center console :D

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/t31.0-8/10357738_10152237221627106_5638547847834812988_o.j pg

Glassed together
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/10358949_10152237221712106_5222721116103553730_o.j pg

Bondo time
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10511554_10152237222177106_7430699401667231662_o.j pg

Done!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/10467085_10152237222362106_2367211038202150388_o.j pg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t31.0-8/10495124_10152237222317106_5994136492390148081_o.j pg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10506735_10152237222227106_4714923645758527547_o.j pg

Excuse the crappy pics. I'll get some decent pics of the armrest installed in the car tomorrow

conozo
07-07-2014, 06:34 PM
I think you need to come here and open your own school to teach us how to do what you do.

Dr_Snooz
07-07-2014, 06:51 PM
How do you match the textures?

Looks epic, BTW.

Hazwan
08-17-2014, 12:34 AM
How do you match the textures?

Looks epic, BTW.

Oh I did not see this but I used bedliner spray. Not perfect but better than flat smooth surface. I have plans to redo the dash center and console and I'm gonna wrap them in leather/vinyl/suede/whatever I end up with. Can't wait!!

Anyway PICS time!

http://i.imgur.com/uLu2JaM.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bhc3jov.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0tYvJZK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/U5iDQix.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iyBPOGf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hlFoEzQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BAtAIsK.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/MAeSQVz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/X6Pnnf9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hao8CaJ.jpg

Dr_Snooz
08-17-2014, 07:14 PM
So shiny, you could mount it in a setting and wear it on your finger!

Hazwan
08-21-2014, 04:33 AM
Red 2g Hondas ftw?

http://i.imgur.com/ByktwUu.jpg

AccordB20A
08-22-2014, 08:04 PM
unfacebooked photos ftw!!!!!!!!

A18A
08-23-2014, 01:12 AM
so shine

Hazwan
08-24-2014, 04:11 AM
Facebook pics suck but today marks one year since I acquired the lude. I tried to get the car into the exact spot but it won't clear the septic tank thinggy right in front of the lude in the old before pic LOL

All the blood, sweat, tears, a burned arm, frustrations from the never ending engine issues and all the $$$$ I've dumped into it since last year, and heres the result :)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10500279_10152331971847106_1580766483844455126_n.j pg?oh=3f562df70ac041aba45abddefe743331&oe=546E4EA4&__gda__=1417104987_ae3103a2e219df9f39c10a321bd2f2f d

https://scontent-b-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10561824_10152331972197106_7212630188297746024_n.j pg?oh=614c71531c87a4085be4d497ef34b1e4&oe=54742931

https://scontent-b-kul.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/q81/s720x720/1908085_10152331972157106_2159281896048935486_n.jp g?oh=4035cef11137bcbccb592b5c0ccbbba1&oe=546E25E7

Dr_Snooz
08-24-2014, 08:54 PM
So amazing. What is the latest with your engine? Did you swap? Are you going to?

Hazwan
08-24-2014, 09:58 PM
I had the engine swapped with an A18A from a 3g Accord months back and its been great. Still collecting parts for the 5 speed swap and eventually EFI conversion but so far the 'new' engine works great!

Dr_Snooz
08-25-2014, 07:10 PM
Cool! You rock!

TemplarioPrelude
09-03-2014, 04:25 PM
Hola I'm of Peru.My question is .What is the color?is cool!!

gp02a0083
09-05-2014, 08:49 AM
good work right here! :thumbup:

Hazwan
09-07-2014, 05:57 AM
Hola I'm of Peru.My question is .What is the color?is cool!!

Sunburst Orange Pearl from a newest gen civic

Hazwan
09-08-2014, 04:38 AM
I've always wanted a map light or at least something that would light up the front of the interior better than the single dome light sitting at the center. All it does is light up the back seats and I can barely see anything in the dark. I would try and find one for the lude but knowing my luck, there is absolutely no way for me to even find one so I need to get creative so I bought this CD7(?) map light for like $5 and tried to make it work. It won't fit into the headliner as it hits the sunroof motor so I fabricated a spacer/bezel for it. Kinda like what the stock light would be

Cardboard template
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/q83/s720x720/10628349_10152359303227106_1760563850046102770_n.j pg?oh=46a8b36902ac5217e236a95a74e2997a&oe=54A07614&__gda__=1422927762_607c83389d29f99dc8e07006c9151ce f

Fiberglass, body filler and sanded and ready for primer
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10678795_10152361201542106_883719163142761820_n.jp g?oh=a2c7488da144bc96105733bf71e3c009&oe=549F5F9C&__gda__=1418151735_e9e0ae82b39e3a50211574d23544e9d e

Painted and installed!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10615493_10152362617207106_153980205004155783_n.jp g?oh=f62452e4ac76a74370db735531985207&oe=549A6686&__gda__=1418873687_36f877fbf66e4e57b38bd8a7cfcf0ed d

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10592878_10152362617117106_8696714497434561191_n.j pg?oh=967a63da2983253546c185e0abd93835&oe=54A362A3&__gda__=1418244698_441520d2a9eccdcc94ab31f50b67346 6

It works!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/s720x720/10678575_10152362641807106_8109855115560018650_n.j pg?oh=9c6a593e8047e29fee55ba1592e9041c&oe=54A24D7F&__gda__=1419235177_f1cd2976d0465ad2b1219cddb942225 5

http://i.imgur.com/aLM6DML.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oodyJP2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FcZXhHv.jpg

Without the maps
http://i.imgur.com/cVC2IhC.jpg

With
http://i.imgur.com/rdHGq4v.jpg

See how much better it is with them on!

Wired them to come on with the doors open and added 2 diodes so the buttons could still turn them on individually instead of both on at the same time.

Yet another useless addition by me that cost like $10 in total?

79cord
09-10-2014, 05:06 AM
Well done as usual!
Wiring change sounds like a great idea, more info I want to do that! (though probably won't).
Good to know you go to such efforts.

TemplarioPrelude
09-10-2014, 08:39 AM
hank you very much!!!your work is very good.I hope you will can me with my Lude. :-). What number of hoops you have your car? and what kind of tire? no problem with curves?. Congratulations!!

A18A
09-10-2014, 02:42 PM
looks oem as. even has room for extra features!

rustlude87
09-10-2014, 07:14 PM
OMG THIS CAR IS BEAUTIFUL :omg: Great work so far!

Hazwan
09-16-2014, 06:49 AM
So I went on a 500 miles trip and picked the rest of the 5 speed swap parts and here they are! All that left now is the clutch cable which isn't a big problem since they're available new here anyway
http://i.imgur.com/zXmqNsi.jpg

The guy I bought the parts from threw a near new clutch for free. Looks fine (to me at least) so I think I'm gonna use that.

Picked another gearbox while am at it since its cheap. I already have an Accord ET-1 gearbox but its leaking and I need to tear it apart to fix it.
http://i.imgur.com/5H3h9GX.jpg

That red gearbox is the first one I picked before I came home and realized that its off an early ET-1 and it just won't fit on my Accord A18A. or later model ET for that matter. That guy agreed to exchange it with another spare box he has so its all good. Stupid thing was red anyway lol

Free Accord box on right, 'new' lude box on left
http://i.imgur.com/H5JGc8d.jpg

Lude box is supposed to have shorter gear ratios. Besides it looked so mint! Took the 5th gear cover off and it looked so nice on the inside. Appears to be rebuilt a while go based from how clean the exterior is and some gasket maker stuff around the case. Hopefully there are no surprises when I have everything installed..

Hazwan
09-16-2014, 06:56 AM
Also met with another lude owner and took some PICS!

http://i.imgur.com/fqUXei9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Q0zenFI.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/53n0TaM.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RUVtJy6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Z9qYbCf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BtkuSkt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0i5tq2x.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kL2cgYl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/i99g0Zf.jpg

Its an AB (1.8 EX) converted to BA B20A SI engine and front end. Gotta love that bump on the hood!

I had no issues with my car during the trip except for that massive front main seal leak. Yes I did replace that when i swapped the engine. I probably got it on wrong or something lol. Or it could be the oil pump o-ring I don't know but it came from the crank pulley area and seemed to spray the oil under the car and suspension parts. Lost about half a liter during the whole trip. Fixing that when I pull the engine to do the 5 speed swap anyway!

Then the autotragic seems to be acting up randomly and shifting late and sounds like its slipping sometimes. Whatever lol I don't care. Oh and I averaged about 25mpg on 70% highway driving and the rest being stop and go city traffic. Not bad! I suppose 30 highway would be possible if I drive slower and carefully AND not being automatic lol

Can't wait!!

TemplarioPrelude
09-16-2014, 07:53 AM
Is good!! mecanic is better!!!but you must be accurate at the time of installation. Sometimes it is not good to do because a car is built to work in the best way when it's original factory. When a car mechanic is not manufactured, it may have some problems. Anyway good luck.!!!
Where you get the second piece? I am looking for the electronic door panels. please answer me that your car has rims ?. 195/55/14 ??? Good luck!!!!!

Hazwan
09-16-2014, 08:08 PM
Man I'm lost at what you're trying to say but I'm guessing it has something about the manual swap :/

But I have 195/55/15 tires on a 15x6.5 +38 wheels and it didn't rub at all. I even have 3mm spacers all around

AccordB20A
09-19-2014, 01:24 AM
roll on with the manual swap already!

79cord
09-19-2014, 02:05 AM
Great to see the progress with parts anyway.
And interesting to spot all the little differences between the two Prelude.

TemplarioPrelude
09-26-2014, 09:35 PM
how did you do with the holes in the doors? those were filled with putty? or filled it with steel?

Hazwan
10-02-2014, 03:34 AM
I filled them with fiberglass. I wish I could weld though :(

Dr_Snooz
10-02-2014, 06:45 PM
You can weld. You just need a welder, about an hour's worth of hands on instruction and then to be left alone for a few hours. You'll be rockin' in no time.

Hazwan
10-04-2014, 10:48 PM
Never touched a welder before but yeah I can learn and practice from there.. IF I have a welder..

Anyway I finally managed to start working on my 5 speed swap. I'm actually gonna do a minor freshening up in the engine bay so I figured I should pull the engine and do everything outside since its going to be easier. Besides I'm gonna repaint the bay.
http://i.imgur.com/epvkCDV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/BKNrN2K.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ADSfKFk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/f2h7v4c.jpg

I also have this massive oil leak around the crank pulley area. I figured it must be my main seal but then I was wrong.
http://i.imgur.com/VPHjSEr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XcRh8s5.jpg

I had the main seal replaced when I swapped this engine in months back. Looks like its coming from the oil pump area. I already have all the new gaskets and seals for this anyway. I had this suspected before besides it would be easier and better to do them all while I'm at it.
https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10384896_10152402059172106_2820197079169684761_n.j pg?oh=58d44aa54ba7378140429b76b0f8d220&oe=54C85084&__gda__=1421494241_5a11f31d468445b1777f57c2bbb176d 7

79cord
10-07-2014, 05:20 AM
Well the transmission swap should transform its character!

AccordB20A
10-10-2014, 12:41 AM
if he ever stops finding other things to fix while the engines out.

Hazwan
10-10-2014, 09:27 PM
Updates!

Automatic trans separated
http://i.imgur.com/YkOLQHe.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tJfqVPb.jpg

Intake off
http://i.imgur.com/DMenaPr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OSc8TyS.jpg

Dirty ass intake
http://i.imgur.com/M67BHNB.jpg

Block prepped for paint
http://i.imgur.com/zA20rAX.jpg

Painted!
http://i.imgur.com/YCIDnu6.jpg

Replaced all the o-rings in the oil pump. Hopefully it didn't leak from the shaft area
http://i.imgur.com/8w4Od3k.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8RVumSW.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/EzjfW1i.jpg

Hazwan
10-10-2014, 09:28 PM
Oil pump, water pump and water pipe installed
http://i.imgur.com/lDI6AxP.jpg

Rear main seal off, and trying to get the pan off
http://i.imgur.com/dJMtji4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/i24d30Y.jpg

Took me over an hour to get it off. It was stuck real good
http://i.imgur.com/8twkb3x.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PosX1wE.jpg

Pan painted
http://i.imgur.com/49wecHE.jpg

Exhaust manifold back on
http://i.imgur.com/xLvI5M9.jpg

Ran out of high temp silver paint so this has to wait
http://i.imgur.com/1UvRp16.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2MTDE0O.jpg

Hazwan
10-10-2014, 09:29 PM
Trying to get the damn pedals out
http://i.imgur.com/BhM2u5e.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/P4KcSQ4.jpg

Booster is out
http://i.imgur.com/RhggUvf.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QfM66B4.jpg

Someones happy to get the stupid 2 pedals out :tongue:
http://i.imgur.com/TGWFwhm.jpg

Heres what I did to it shortly after that DIE YOU STUPID PEDALS - YouTube (http://youtu.be/NVvRMSuOEMQ)

Feels good :lol:

Hazwan
10-10-2014, 09:30 PM
Etching primer and painted the crossmembers
http://i.imgur.com/Owe1TdZ.jpg

Primed
http://i.imgur.com/UjxnRbK.jpg

Orange base coat
http://i.imgur.com/g9ZxIhi.jpg

Red pearl on
http://i.imgur.com/2FjHzyo.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ldUzrIB.jpg

Cleared
http://i.imgur.com/Fa6BguD.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9Xt8G5w.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/j2EBd8i.jpg

Dr_Snooz
10-11-2014, 07:28 PM
I'm actually gonna do a minor freshening up in the engine bay

If this is a "minor" freshening up, what does a major one involve?

gp02a0083
10-11-2014, 07:49 PM
good work buddy, i respect your dedication to doing things right

Hazwan
10-12-2014, 04:38 AM
If this is a "minor" freshening up, what does a major one involve?

Full car strip down to bare frame perhaps? :lol:


good work buddy, i respect your dedication to doing things right

Thanks! Better than brushing the paint over dirt and crap in the bay amirite??

Anyway I've assembled some rubber grommets, brake and misc pipes. I still gotta finish my harness and then I can put that back in and get the linkage and pedals back in.. then the engine is going back in!!

http://i.imgur.com/cHepLv5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/oL116W7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/04cvkjQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/b45L1v6.jpg

Starting to look so much better with the black contrast in the bay now

gp02a0083
10-12-2014, 06:41 PM
your not kidding better than brushing stuff around. this is as close to a full on restoration without putting the uni body on a spit lol. this is the type and quality of work i like seeing

AccordB20A
10-13-2014, 01:06 AM
top notch work!. come to NZ and do mine kthx

79cord
10-13-2014, 02:46 AM
Plenty of impressive work once again. Beautiful!

2oodoor
10-13-2014, 03:42 AM
Plenty of impressive work once again. Beautiful!

X2 ! You never cease to be amazing Hazwan

Hazwan
10-15-2014, 07:31 AM
Thanks guys!

Snagged a bunch of shiny bolts and nuts at the yard lol
http://i.imgur.com/gcjNpgj.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/A4l489n.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/YccIYr9.jpg

Fake ass mooogen pedals installed and the pedals are back on the car
http://i.imgur.com/GjO7G4K.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RxjleUo.jpg

Linkage and console installed
http://i.imgur.com/puD9k4z.jpg

Replaced the starter brush since I already have it apart to clean and repaint it
http://i.imgur.com/ZrAwQLC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7j6N9vW.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3Zdqnko.jpg

Theres some tiny seepage at the back of my brake master cylinder so I took it apart and clean everything up. Replaced that one o-ring at the back and hopefully that would stop the leak. Everything else looks great though!
http://i.imgur.com/uiQlZ8T.jpg

Hazwan
10-15-2014, 07:33 AM
New boots and everything. Hopefully this would fit just fine with no more surprises later
http://i.imgur.com/7FusXxn.jpg

Rewrapped my harness after I added a couple of wires, fuses and relays inside the stock fusebox to maintain the factory look
http://i.imgur.com/HSFVald.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Jg6IprV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/tZAhgMZ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pnPzJf1.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gGShyTF.jpg

Intake back on
http://i.imgur.com/trD3NSj.jpg

Clutch. Check out my sick alignment tool lol
http://i.imgur.com/G4poubD.jpg

Timing belt
http://i.imgur.com/XTQC9Q1.jpg

OMG the transmission slides in without any issues!!
http://i.imgur.com/GJGZ1wK.jpg

Hoping to drop the engine tomorrow. Hopefully everything would go as planned!

Dr_Snooz
10-16-2014, 07:39 PM
Epic build!!!

Hazwan
10-21-2014, 04:13 AM
Replaced the starter brush since I already have it apart to clean and repaint it
http://i.imgur.com/ZrAwQLC.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/7j6N9vW.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3Zdqnko.jpg

Theres some tiny seepage at the back of my brake master cylinder so I took it apart and clean everything up. Replaced that one o-ring at the back and hopefully that would stop the leak. Everything else looks great though!
http://i.imgur.com/uiQlZ8T.jpg

New boots and everything. Hopefully this would fit just fine with no more surprises later
http://i.imgur.com/7FusXxn.jpg

Making a custom harness for the engine. Mainly for the alternator and reverse light switch on the transmission.
http://i.imgur.com/Y7DeqhQ.jpg

Engine dropped in
http://i.imgur.com/2O0AOWy.jpg

Trying to fit my 'hybrid axle'
http://i.imgur.com/mA1ZD6o.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/b87FWzu.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/wPRPJjR.jpg

Hazwan
10-21-2014, 04:15 AM
That didn't work. Its too long and probably gonna explode the moment I let off the clutch lol so I had to get a brand new one.. for the 3g Accord since noone local is selling a lude axle.

http://i.imgur.com/5ecwl14.jpg

Auto axle with manual inner cup on the top. Ended up being about 20mm too long.

3g Accord axle in the middle. Length wise it is a few mm shorter than what a lude SI should be.

Manual axle with auto inner cup at the bottom. Too short obviously and the auto inner cup won't fit into the manual transmission anway. The reason why I'm not using it is because someone decided to cut and rewelded the shaft. WHY?! I don't really trust it so I didn't use it. I bought it for cheap and was planning to reuse the inner cup.. oh well

Also, my ET transmission that came off a DX lude has bigger splines like the SI. ???
My spare transmission which came off an 84 Accord has bigger inner splines and it accepts my axle just fine. I thought they all have smaller splines wtf?

And obviously that 3g Accord axle fits the transmission just fine

http://i.imgur.com/IguuDw6.jpg

Outer CV fits.. kinda. Spline count matches my hubs BUT it was shaped differently and was fouling the dust seal on behind the hub :rocketwhore:
http://i.imgur.com/6Vw9Aoc.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GTkGaxI.jpg

So I had to tear the brand new 3g Accord axle apart and replace the outer CV with my old ones. I HATE GREASE!

3g Accord inner cup and shaft, 86 Lude DX outer
http://i.imgur.com/uM0Q9Hm.jpg

Whats left of the Accord outer CV.. I couldn't get it off because they're using too large of a C-clip... The inner clip was too big and won't seat into my transmission too. Fucking aftermarket crap!
http://i.imgur.com/qVkuz57.jpg

Hazwan
10-21-2014, 04:15 AM
Installed a few things
http://i.imgur.com/t2u73en.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rOVjAqb.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/twTIYUg.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/1PuPHxa.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FZHWyvQ.jpg

IT RUNS AND MOVES UNDER ITS OWN POWER!!
http://i.imgur.com/SHBfn06.jpg

Nothing explodes or catches fire. No leaks except for the valve cover since I didn't put the RTV around the corner as I'm gonna take it off and paint it. Oh and my PS rack leaks but yeah no more engine oil leak!

I took it for a drive around the neighborhood and it shifts fine. No funny noises or anything :lol:

All that left now is to put the front end back together again and I should be done with this car.. for now!

JSmythe
10-21-2014, 11:26 PM
When you visit The Southern US, I will trade you room and board for painting my cars. You rock. Love your threads. Pretty sure i teared up when i read the end of your Accord thread.

Hazwan
10-26-2014, 07:36 PM
Its running now. All is good. Drove around the neighborhood and theres no funny noises or anything. Took it out further and everything is great! Feels like a different car now.

http://i.imgur.com/h8JcplV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ruawgA9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pfV544x.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PBhVZEs.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/eDNFpg7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ecov09z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/D5lE2AQ.jpg

I do have an issue with the shifter not being centered though. It shifts fine, it doesn't bind or anything but its angled too far back. I know they're supposed to bend back but it can't be this much??

Neutral
http://i.imgur.com/Wjnk9r6.jpg

Third
http://i.imgur.com/R3m3fy0.jpg

Fourth
http://i.imgur.com/xVU661C.jpg

I thought I had it installed upside down but like I said the factory shifter is supposed to bend back but not this much. The shifter doesn't sit centered in the hole in the body either. Its like the whole thing is pushed too far back causing the linkage to be pulled forward and causing the shifter to lean back. WHY? I have the correct shifter and all. Mounts? What else am I missing here?

It shifts fine, its just bothering me lol

79cord
10-26-2014, 10:51 PM
Great to see it all together & sorry to hear about the driveshaft difficulties. Must admit I've never tried to get an outboard CV joint apart, obviously they don't and shouldn't come apart easily!
I guess the shifter location problem has to be with linkage unless Honda had different length selector shafts between Accord & Prelude G/boxes (or something) to ensure connecting bolt could be undone easily around anything that might be in the way?