Brake lights not working

[alanv]

All of my brake lights stopped working yesterday...I did some searching and read the troubleshooting manual, but it was not much help. Googling gave me a couple of things to check but I figure I'd ask for some advice...

The "safety indicator" on the dash is not lit up. The running lights (tail lights) still work when the headlights are on. Turn signals, reverse lights, and license plate light still work fine.

I was thinking it could be the brake light switch next to the pedal, but I thought that it will constantly give the brake lights power when broken. Only other thing I can think of is bad wiring. I read somewhere that a wire on the driver's side where the trunk lid rotates has a tendency to break...anyone else have this problem?

Anything else worth checking?

Thanks!

[g.frost]

Fuse?

[alanv]

Fuse?

Haha, forgot to mention that the fuses are good.

[niles]

My brake lights stopped working a month or so ago. Turned out to be the Middle-Brake light in the trunk. The bulb was somehow taking down the whole circuit without a fuse blowing. Replaced the bulb and good as new! I'd start there.

Could be the switch on your pedal too, easy to test but kind of a pain to get it out to test.

[Hauntd ca3]

the brake light checker( the thing that lights up the warning on the dash) could be stuffed.
the brake lights run through it

[alanv]

the brake light checker( the thing that lights up the warning on the dash) could be stuffed.
the brake lights run through it

Any handy way to check this?

[alanv]

My brake lights stopped working a month or so ago. Turned out to be the Middle-Brake light in the trunk. The bulb was somehow taking down the whole circuit without a fuse blowing. Replaced the bulb and good as new! I'd start there.

Could be the switch on your pedal too, easy to test but kind of a pain to get it out to test.

Checked all the bulbs, they're good.

Took off the brake switch connector...was not reading any voltage to any of the wires. Also tried using a jumper between the wires to simulate the switch getting released, no combination of the wires connected worked (at least with only one jumper - didn't try using more than one...don't know exactly how the circuit behaves when activated).

So, this leads me to believe that my switch is not necessarily bad, but rather that there isn't a complete circuit going to the switch.

Where is the "safety indicator" module located, and how can I test it?

[HLW]

Checked all the bulbs, they're good.

Took off the brake switch connector...was not reading any voltage to any of the wires. Also tried using a jumper between the wires to simulate the switch getting released, no combination of the wires connected worked (at least with only one jumper - didn't try using more than one...don't know exactly how the circuit behaves when activated).

So, this leads me to believe that my switch is not necessarily bad, but rather that there isn't a complete circuit going to the switch.

Where is the "safety indicator" module located, and how can I test it?

One of the pins on the connector should have 12v if it does not, check the #4 fuse in the under hood relay box. If the 20 amp fuse is good, you have bad wiring between that fuse and the brake switch connector.

[alanv]

One of the pins on the connector should have 12v if it does not, check the #4 fuse in the under hood relay box. If the 20 amp fuse is good, you have bad wiring between that fuse and the brake switch connector.

Thanks for the advice! So somehow when I was checking all of the fuses (checked continuity with a volt meter multiple times) this fuse didn't register as being broken. Just rechecked it by actually taking it out and looking at it, and it was clearly broken...looked almost like it was barely making some contact where it broke. Anyway that seems to have been the problem. Glad I didn't start trying to find the safety indicator module.

Thanks for the help everyone!

[firefighterwhite89]

Thanks for the advice! So somehow when I was checking all of the fuses (checked continuity with a volt meter multiple times) this fuse didn't register as being broken. Just rechecked it by actually taking it out and looking at it, and it was clearly broken...looked almost like it was barely making some contact where it broke. Anyway that seems to have been the problem. Glad I didn't start trying to find the safety indicator module.

Thanks for the help everyone!

Always pull and check your fuses with your own eyes. Don't rely on anything but checking them visually. Hence why they're made of clear material to see through. I've had several fuses over time i tested and they passed somehow, yet the issue was still there. Pulled the fuses out and duh, wasted a good bit of time when i could have just looked. I tend to pull all mine and individually check all mine about once every 3 months or so because of course you'll immediately realize most fuses are out as soon as it happens but sometimes you dont realize when one blows and can cause issues later when you start tearing everything apart to learn it was a fuse the whole time.

[niles]

Also the connections on the brake switch are cris-crossed. With the switch out you can measure continuity like this crude picture (X = connection):

Not pressed switch:
OX
XO

Pressed Switch:
XO
OX

I might have it backwards, but that's the basics. When it's pressed there will be a connection diagonally, like from pins 1 & 3. And when it is not pressed it will be between pins 2 & 4.
The correct information is in the shop manual posted in the 3geez wiki.

[alanv]

Always pull and check your fuses with your own eyes. Don't rely on anything but checking them visually. Hence why they're made of clear material to see through. I've had several fuses over time i tested and they passed somehow, yet the issue was still there. Pulled the fuses out and duh, wasted a good bit of time when i could have just looked. I tend to pull all mine and individually check all mine about once every 3 months or so because of course you'll immediately realize most fuses are out as soon as it happens but sometimes you dont realize when one blows and can cause issues later when you start tearing everything apart to learn it was a fuse the whole time.

Yep definitely learned that the hard way this time. Luckily I hadn't started digging for the safety module yet!


Also the connections on the brake switch are cris-crossed. With the switch out you can measure continuity like this crude picture (X = connection):

Not pressed switch:
OX
XO

Pressed Switch:
XO
OX

I might have it backwards, but that's the basics. When it's pressed there will be a connection diagonally, like from pins 1 & 3. And when it is not pressed it will be between pins 2 & 4.
The correct information is in the shop manual posted in the 3geez wiki.

Awesome, good information to know...thanks!

[Gemini2003]

Great Thread for Brake light troubleshooting. :-) Sticky?

I'm having these same issue, thanks to this I visually inspected my fuses and found bad ones,

I have another issue however, my brake switch doesn't have 4 pins mine has 2.

I think the difference is between cruise and non cruise,

I need the different switch for my brakes I just realized, off to the wrecker I go lol

don't do drugs kids lol


**EDIT** I'm back and simply switching the switch on the brake pedal resolved this concern, Also the wiring at the bulbs was all rusty... cleaned it all up and I have brake lights again!