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1989accordaz
11-19-2013, 06:00 PM
Installing a new vacuum advance . I am having a hard time disconnecting the plunger on old the advance from the distributor...I removed the dist cap, rotor, reluctor, igniter, stator and magnet set. I am trying to wiggle the plunger from the pin that holds it to the breaker plate but it won't come off. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong that I can't get this plunger off? It is a Hitachi distributor. ( page 24-17 shop manual )

Otherwise I will put everything back together and do some more research... didn't think it was going to be this much of a pain...

OK so after looking at the diagram, it looks like the pin ( from the top looks like a rivet ) that hold the plunger rod has a spring washer preventing the arm to slide off the pin...not quite sure how to remove it and put it back on. Maybe remove the breaker plate?

update: Ok done for the night, put everything back together and will look into this on the weekend. In the meantime if you have any tips suggestions please let me know. Thanks in advance.

Dr_Snooz
11-20-2013, 09:27 PM
Can't speak to the Hitachi's, but on the TEC's it's held on with an e-clip that makes a distinct "ping" sound as it comes off and disappears forever. It's best to remove the mounting screws from the diaphragm before removing the e-clip. That will give you room to slide the plunger off the post.

firefighterwhite89
11-21-2013, 12:07 AM
I used a screwdriver(Flat head) to pry both sides off and it finally popped off. To get it back on though, i think i used tweezers to hold it in place and a flat head screwdriver again to push it back on. Either way, it IS a HUGE PITA.

1989accordaz
11-21-2013, 10:54 AM
Dr, F\firefighter:

The problem on the Hitachi is that from the top, all you can see is what it appears to be a rivet head, no clip. If there is a clip on the otherside I can't see it. I am going to see if I can get a small mirror to at least give me an idea of what is olding it. I did remove the mounting screws for the advance, and I am able to wiggle it but something is preventing it from sliding off. I ''ll work on it tomorrow and if I am able to get it off, I'll take some pics and post it. Thank you both for your input.

Dr_Snooz
11-21-2013, 09:31 PM
Sorry. I've only ever worked on the TEC dizzie, so I can't help with the Hitachi if it's different.

1989accordaz
11-08-2014, 09:08 PM
Old thread but I did find my answer.

I bought a Hitachi distributor from the local pull a part, and I am taking it apart so I can have a solid spare. There is no clip holding the vacuum advance rod to the upper plate. To remove the vacuum advance, all you need to do is manually turn the upper plate so the connecting rod clears the slot on the breaker plate. page 24-15 of the shop manual. That simple. As I mentioned, this is for a Hitachi Distributor. To remove the vacuum advance linkage I did remove the rotor, reluctor, igniter unit, stator and magnet set. You may have a different way or easier way to do this, but this worked for me.

66416642



I bought a vacuum advance from Autozone when I first posted this thread. And never installed it. I am going to replace the oil seal since I already have the distributor disassembled. No friction on the bearing at all, just going to repack it with fresh grease and put it together.

Dr_Snooz
11-09-2014, 10:43 AM
Uh, are you sure that the bearing isn't already being lubricated by engine oil?

1989accordaz
11-09-2014, 12:17 PM
Dr_Snooz, I didn't think that the bearing would get lubricated by the engine oil. I thought the purpose of the oil seal on the distributor was to prevent oil from entering the dizzy. It seems that I am mistaken then, in addition to it, the shop manual does not say anything about adding grease to the bearing, it just seemed as a logical thing for me to do. Thanks for the heads up. Your input is always appreciated.

Dr_Snooz
11-09-2014, 05:04 PM
When I dove into my TEC (http://www.3geez.com/forum/3geez-accords/66468-lazy-mans-distributor-overhaul-tec-distributor.html), I found that the oil seal keeps the oil out of the advance mechanisms and crank sensor. The bearing is on the other side of that seal so it can get oil from the head. Yours could be different.

It's not a big deal. The oil will eventually wash out the grease and things will be as they were before. I just thought I'd mention it, in case you didn't know.