b20a manual transmission gets stuck in/out of gear

[3gmodifier]

So I had this strange thing happen back when we had the slo meet. So after the long drive home I down shifted from fifth to fourth and while doing so I got stuck in neutral. From that point I could not shift to any gear. It was like trying to shift from a complete stop without using the clutch. After a few mins freaking out and double checking my clutch cable I tried to put it in reverse. It ground a bit but went in and heard and felt a shift in the car. All of a sudden I was good again and could drive. I have been fine untill last weekend when it happened 4 times in just a 6 mile trip around town. I have rebuilt a few trannys but for bad bearings. I am not sure what is going on. I wanna tare it apart but with the rarity of this tranny and parts, I am afraid I wont be able to fix it. It almost seems like when I down shift from fifth, the shift collar doesnt fully disengage and I get locked out. Obviously you cannot be in to gears at once but that's what I think is trying to happen. Any thoughts or spare trannys available. If I could get a spare I could play with mine a bit and still have a drivable ride.

[Blaaz]

I had something similar happen to me. Near the end of life on my stock clutch, I heard something pop when shifting from 1st to 2nd. Tranny wouldn't engage any gear. I pulled off on a side street. I turned off the car, put it in second and started it up. It jerked but allowed me to limp the car home in 2nd. Pulling into the garage, it seemed fine again. I didn't take any chances. Had the car towed to the shop and replaced the clutch and bearings. Worked fine since.

[A18A]

would it go into gear properly if you matched the revs or the car is off? my mate had a what sounds like the same problem, it was caused by one of the springs falling out of the clutch and intermittently locking the clutch plate to the flywheel

[3gmodifier]

would it go into gear properly if you matched the revs or the car is off? my mate had a what sounds like the same problem, it was caused by one of the springs falling out of the clutch and intermittently locking the clutch plate to the flywheel

When the car is off I could shift but even if I was to put it in first, press the clutch and start it, the car would take off in gear even with the clutch pressed in. I thought the same as ur friends problem but the weird thing is that when it would lock me out I could come to a stop and slam it into reverse and then it would shift again.

[Dr_Snooz]

I'd take a look at the clutch and fork before anything else. Also check clutch adjustment, cable condition, etc. though it sounds like you already have.

[AccordB20A]

sounds clutch related to me

[3gmodifier]

Gonna take the tranny out next weekend. I would start now but it's my birthday on friday so I figured I would wait. I just hope its nothing internal.

[89T]

As snooz said , check the clutch and fork. If they are good, your best bet will be bent shift linckage. Although it sounds unlikely, I have had the internal linkage bend on me before.

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[HLW]

When the car is off I could shift but even if I was to put it in first, press the clutch and start it, the car would take off in gear even with the clutch pressed in. I thought the same as ur friends problem but the weird thing is that when it would lock me out I could come to a stop and slam it into reverse and then it would shift again.

Shifting fine with the engine off indicates the issue is not inside the transmission I.E. shift fork or bent shift linkage internal to the trans.

Trans in first gear, clutch pedal fully pressed, car moves forward when starting engine indicates the clutch is not fully disengaging. This can be caused by the clutch plate not moving freely on the trans input shaft (should have a very thin layer of grease on the input shaft splines to allow free movement of the clutch plate to prevent binding), the clutch fork not installed properly or the screws that hold it on the clutch fork pivot shaft loosened, clutch cable out of adjustment or stretched beyond what can be adjusted for or the clutch pedal is damaged.

As Snooz said check the clutch and clutch fork, the cable condition and adjustment, I would check the cable condition and adjustment firs because you can do that before removing the trans to check the clutch.

[3gmodifier]

Ok guys and gals, for those of you who are not on face book, here is an update. I was bored a couple nights ago and decided to pull the tranny out of my coupe. Only took me about 1-1/2 hours as I was trying to be quiet. Lol. I am glad to say that there was no internal damage. It was a failure with my clutch disc. Now I just need to save a little money and get some new parts.

[Dr_Snooz]

I was bored a couple nights ago and decided to pull the tranny out of my coupe.

LOL. That isn't my way of relieving boredom, but rock on. Glad you got it figured out and thanks for closing the loop over here.

[2ndGenGuy]

Awesome work. Glad it was just the clutch!!!

[3gmodifier]

Yeah when I get bored I start looking for areas of opportunity lol. The following night I stripped the block down cuz I had a few small coolant leaks. Figured I would replace every hose and gasket I could. Then I tore apart the front suspension because when I first pulled the tranny I noticed that the sway bar bushings were smashed flat. Gonna do a full bushing overhaul while everything is taken apart. Should be nice and smooth when I am done.

[Dr_Snooz]

Sounds great. Send us pics of the work!

[3gmodifier]

So I went to autozone so I could redeem my 85 bucks I had on my rewards card. They have energy suspension products so I tried to get some new sway bar bushings. Turns out my credit just expired 2 days ago. Calling the corporate line on monday. I figured if I have $96 in credit, I am gonna use it for some new parts that actually work.

[3gmodifier]

Ok so I have ordered my new flywheel friction disc. Now just gotta come up with the money for the clutch kit. Now that I am re doing every seal and hose I can figured it is time to refinish the block and tranny. For those who have seen my setup you know that the block and tranny are painted in high gloss high temp paint that is black in color. There are many chips here and there and its not so glossy anymore. The question is, do I sand blast/ chemically strip it and go bare aluminum and try to shine it up to the looks of a brand new factory setup or,...strip it and re paint a new color? I am going to paint the car it self by years end in either championship white or a clean pearl white so I have the option to paint the engine bay or engine itself for an accent. Not sure what to do but I need to figure it out soon. I wanna take car of this before I put her back together. Any thoughts.

[Tdurr]

I like painted blocks, so I say respray it

[AccordB20A]

and im the opposite i like a shiny clean alloy looking block (providing the block is alloy which all of mine are)

[A18A]

+1 for the clean alloy look

[3gmodifier]

Clean alloy it is. Thats what I really wanted all along.

Random question but do any of the b20 vets know what the oem temp rating is on the thermostat? I used a 91 prelude thermostat which was made to open at 192° when I first built my engine and it was mostly fine except for the occasional loping idle due to air in the coolant lines feeding the iacv. Got a brand new thermostat for free but its for an 89 prelude and is made to open at 160°. I just read a good article on why some use a lower temp thermostat and how usually its bad. All though you might think yoir cooling the engine faster your actually causing more damage than you think.


Low Temp Thermostats: What’s the Advantage? | Tuner University (http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/)