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View Full Version : PROJECT, DCOE + MANIFOLD ( PhydeauX )



PhydeauX
05-15-2002, 06:21 PM
I've finally got all the parts to start to build my manifold, so here is my first installment on how to do it.


The A20A DCOE manifold how to part 1: Getting your shit together.

The parts list for this is pretty short. All parts are aluminum to make the fabrication easier.
http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/parts.jpg

2 DCOE flanges. They are available from Pierce Manifolds (www.piercemanifolds.com). They are not listed in the catalog but the part number is 99005.147. These puppies are $42 a pop, but they make for a nice clean well fitting manifold.
Tube. Onlinemetals.com (www.onlinemetals.com) is a good source, resonable prices and they deal in small quanties. Figure on about 2 feet of thick walled tubeing. I bought some 1/4" walled tube, and its a bit too thick, but don't go thinner then 1/8" this has to stand up to the vibrations of the engine. The tube should be about the diameter of the throttle plate of the carb. For a 40DCOE thats about 1 1/5", for a 45 just do the math.
A flange to fit the head. The easiest way to get this is to just cut it off your old carbed manifold, or a spare one if you are still driveing the car while doing this. Don't use an injected manifold because you would have to plug up the ports for the injectors. Thats just more work for you.


The only real work thats been done so far is to chop up my spare manifold. I'm sure you can figure this out on your own but here it is anyway.

Mount the manifold in a vice.
http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/carb_manifold.jpg

Choose your weapon, this can mean the diference between this taking 5 or 50 minutes. Which do you think I chose?
http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/weapons.jpg

When you're all done you should end up with something that looks like this.
http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/flange.jpg

And you can just throw this part away.
http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/leftovers.jpg


Next time I will be back with making the runners and maybe start the fitting.

andy

PhydeauX
05-15-2002, 06:26 PM
I do plan on makeing those images smaller once I get photoshop installed again.

andy

A20A1
05-15-2002, 06:36 PM
:bow: Hurry

A20A1
05-15-2002, 06:40 PM
Hmm with the spare part of the maniflod you could do a quad exhaust... not sure if the aluminum would last :burn:

carotman
05-15-2002, 07:38 PM
VERY interesting post. I ll look for the updates.

Once it's all done, I'll post this in the How-To section.

PhydeauX
05-15-2002, 09:07 PM
I might end up having to order some thinner walled tube, wtf was I thinking when I ordered 1/4" wall. I don't know htf I am going to bend it into a nice oval, nothing short of a sledghammer is going to dent this stuff, its like a section of fence post. That will add another week to it unless I spring for express delivery. Then there is always the problem that I can only get intouch with the guy thats doing the welding when I don't have anything for him to weld. But I hope it doesn't take too long, I still have that nova I need to start putting more time into.

andy

A20A1
05-15-2002, 10:58 PM
Damn that's the opening size of the fuel line... :eek:

Don87LX
05-16-2002, 02:27 PM
Damn I want to do this...Andy your polluting my young mind!

A20A1
05-16-2002, 05:40 PM
Originally posted by Don87LX
Damn I want to do this...Andy your polluting my young mind!

... and the environment. :lol

Don87LX
05-17-2002, 05:40 AM
With the tubing, granted 1/4'' is pretty damn large, but couldnt you heat it with a torch and then crush it with your bench vise into an oval? could take awhile but the strength of the 1/4'' tubing might be nice. If you put a cheater pipe over the the vise's crank handle you could get the torque you need to flex the tubing.

Also what kind of angle are you cutting the runners at? our motors lean forward and the DCOE's have to sit flat correct? Are you going to make the carbs sit up any higher or just cut straight runners off the intake flange and then angle the dcoe flanges down the few degrees to compensate for the lean of the engine?

Are the runners going to be able to go straight off the intake at a 90 degree angle or do the two pairs have to angle away from each other to keep the doces from beings too close together?

How long are the runners going to be?

Am I asking enough questions?

PhydeauX
05-17-2002, 08:28 AM
I left a about half an inch of the old runners on the flange when I cut it. I ground them down to a 10° angle with a grinder, pics to come in the next installment. I'm going to probably put the other 5° into the runners to make them sit level, though I could leave them at just the 10° I ground into the flange, dcoes have a +/-5° tolerance. I ordered some new 1/8" wall pipe, that 1/4" is way too thick. Yes I could bend it, I have access to a 20 ton hydraulic press, but its not going to be that percise. There is also the matter of getting it all welded. Its going to take a whole lot of heat to weld that 1/4" shit, its twice as thick as the flanges. I'd really be running a risk of them getting warped or worse when they're welded. I already ordered some 1/8" walled pipe and I decided to go with 1.75" I.D. incase I decide to go with some 45s later on. I'me haveing it shipped 3day so I don't have to wait a week for it. I'm going to have to slot that pipe and taper it a bit to have it match the head ports most likely, that will be explained in detail later. Its also better for the flow to have a tapered runner. I haven't decieded on the actual lengt of the manifold runners. I'll probalby see how the runners taper and bend into and tranition into a oval first. With a dcoe setup the carb and its airhorn are part of the runner as far as the flow is concerned so I can adjust the length by installing diferent length air horns. The runners have to angle slightly apart to allow the dcoe's to fit. If you remember this pic (http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe/P1010146.jpg) of the b16a manifold that I had the carbs are going to be spaced the same. They have to be angled apart slightly, but nothing drastic. The spaceing of the a20a ports and the bores of the dcoe's is just about the same so that makes things simple and its easy to keep the runners the same length (thats critical).

andy

A20A1
05-17-2002, 01:35 PM
I better see your Setup in an import tuner kinda magazine...
Nothing flashy... just a list of mods and maybe a few good comments from the editor... or whomever.
The title of the artical can say '85 SLEEPER

:D

POS carb
05-18-2002, 12:42 AM
man you can't get into one of those magazines unless you've got a grand invested in a bumper and stickers. pussies.

PhydeauX
05-18-2002, 01:11 AM
Maybe I'll get it featured on hybridhonda.com. After all its built with parts from 3 diferent honda models (5 if you want to count the steering wheel and seats, 6 if you really want to nit pick), and the carbs are from an alpha romeo. It doesnt realy get more hybrid then that. But its not a vtec b-series into a civic/integra so it probalby wont count as a true hybrid.

andy

MoonScryer
05-19-2002, 12:46 AM
Grassroots Motorsports will probably give ya a pic and paragraph...

PhydeauX
05-21-2002, 11:34 PM
I finally got photoshop reinstalled and I resized the pics. Oh and here is a teaser of the cut flange after I angled it. It kinda looks like an artsy shot.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/flange_angled.jpg

Oh and kiss my sig goodbye for now, it wouldn't compress well and I coudln't get it down to the limit with out sacrificing too much quality.

andy

PhydeauX
05-25-2002, 10:23 PM
Here is the long awaited second installment of my DCOE manifold howto, forming and fitting.

Last time I got all the parts together and cut the manifold apart. Then I had to put it on hold while I waited for the right sized tube to come. (Note to anyone doing this, don't use 1/4" walled tubing, 1.75" ID X .125 wall is perfect.) I've got the right stuff now and I am back underway. The tools you are going to need for this part are just a saw and an angle grinder. I already leaked this first shot but the first step is to angle the flange. You need the carbs to sit level but the a20a sits tiped 15° forward so you have to compensate for that somewhere. Idealy the runners haveing a smooth bend in them would be best, but thats hard to do with the shape the runners have to be formed into. Its alot easier to leave some of the old runners on the flange and go after them with the angle grinder.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/flange_angled.jpg

Next its on to the runners. This is where most of the work is. First I'll start with how not to do it. Don't cut off a piece like this and put one end into a vice/press to squish it.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/runner_unbent.jpg

You will end up with something like this.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/opps.jpg

You need a bit more finesse then that. I found the best way to do it was to get out a nice big hammer and pound it into shape. Its very time consumeing and it gives you alot of time to get in touch with Thor, Viking god of beating metal with a big hammer, but you get alot more control and come out with a much better piece. The hammering helps keep it from cracking, but if you hit it to hard it still can crack. Don't use a sissy little carpenters hammer for this, you needs something big with a large flat head like a smiths hammer or a small sledge. It also helps to shape the runner before you cut it from the tube. It gives it alot more strength at the round end to keep its form. I went for 2 1/5" runnres and they bent quite nicely, but I wouldn't use this method for anything shorter then that.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/runner_side.jpg

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/runner_bottom.jpg

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/runner_top.jpg

Now comes the fun part, final shapeing and fitting of the runners. The a20a lucks out in haveing its ports spaced the same as the DCOE's barrels which simplifies things greatly. They are spaced too close to clear the linkages so the runners have to be angled to place the carbs furhter apart, but since the spaceing is the same as that of the carbs all of the runners are identical. That translates into all the runners being even shapes and equal lengths with out any special planning. I basically just took the angle grinder and ground the runner into a trapazoid shape. Its not going to be perfect, I'm going to come back later after its welded with some metal filler and a aluminum head porting kit to smooth it all out, but where the runners and flanges meet need to line up as close as possible.

The runner on the left is unfinished and the one on the right is finished.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/compair.jpg

The more time you spend here the better everything will fit. Its best to make a jig with the carb flanges and trial and error the runners untill everything is just about perfect.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/jig.jpg

The actual spaceing of the flanges will depend on your throttle linkages, but about 2 1/4" or so is good.

I'm not quite finished with this step yet, still have 2 runners to shape but here are some shots of some trial fits of 2 of the runners.

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/progress.jpg

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/side.jpg

andy

A20A1
05-26-2002, 12:49 AM
Looks like everythings coming along pretty well. Good work :)

MoonScryer
05-26-2002, 05:21 PM
That is the shitz man. Hmmm...my DX hatch may need a new life before too long...

PhydeauX
05-26-2002, 08:04 PM
I finished up the runners but I didn't take a pic. Now all thats left is the welding. I should have something to show for my work soon.


Ok, so I broke down and took a pic. It looks like a manifold now :).

http://68.81.204.16:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/preped.jpg



andy

carotman
05-27-2002, 06:15 AM
That's sweet, now I gota buy another accord and install dual webbers on it :)

PhydeauX
05-29-2002, 01:34 PM
I droped it off with my buddy this afternoon. He's going to tack it up and bring it back to me for a final inspection. I put so much time into this that I'm not going to let him do the final welds with out me makeing sure everything is in the right place. I'm also haveing him weld in bosses for nos fogger nozzels. I don't have any plans to juice it yet, but who knows, this way if I do I won't have to pull the manifold. Hopefully this will get finished up for the weekend, but he said no gaurantees that he will be able to have it done by then.

andy

POS carb
05-30-2002, 04:36 PM
I think I would've taken a slightly different approarch... I was thinking if I went to sidedrafts that instead of using a dx/lx manifold I would use an LXi one because its shape is smoother and it looks like you canuse the injector holes for nitrious jets. Whadda ya think?

PhydeauX
05-30-2002, 08:23 PM
The .5" or so of the runners on the factory carb manifold that you keep can easily be smoothed out. The casting on the efi manifold I have is the same as the carbed. You cant use the injector bosses for nitrous, nitrous nozzels goes in perpendicular to the manifold, the injectors go in angled. You would have to have the injector bosses welded over.

andy

Don87LX
06-01-2002, 07:44 PM
You need to have this motor dynoed when you are done. I have to know what kind of power we are talking here....I want to do this so bad it itches.

A20A1
06-02-2002, 10:31 AM
She looks puurrrdy! :flash:

CARBurn
06-04-2002, 11:32 AM
The work looks impressive. Can't wait to see how the final engine pics turn out.

PhydeauX
06-26-2002, 03:29 PM
I finally found a welder willing to take on my manifold. Nice guy who was actually willing to sit down and talk with me about it. I found out why no one wanted to touch it as well. It turns out that japanese car manufatures are notorius for cutting their castings with tin and other white metals, which makes welding them a challenge. The flange I have is just cut from a stock carb manifold and is problaby the reason that the other shops turned me away (would have been nice for them to have talked with me about it first). This guy was willing to trial weld one of the runners on to see how bad the metal was and make his decision from that. The metal is a little dirty and it doesn't make for the prettiest weld, but it holds strong so he was willing to take on the job. Only one hitch, because of the bad metal the welding goes slow. It took him I'd estimate about half and hour just to attach one runner to the flange, I was watching so he wasn't dilly dallying. He estimates it will take a little over 2hrs. At $70/hr thats not going to be cheap, but nothing that makes a car go faster ever is.

andy

A20A1
06-26-2002, 11:24 PM
We need a smiley throwing a party... or something like it...

:D
Sounds good... hey did you ever find out if the dual carb manifold off the prelude fit's the webers?

88LXiHB
06-27-2002, 03:54 AM
Sucks about the trouble you've had, but it'll be worth it :D

guaynabo89
06-27-2002, 04:57 AM
When is it going to be done?


I wanna see some pics.:D

PhydeauX
06-27-2002, 07:36 AM
Nah, that prelude manifold wont fit 2 webers. It fits 2 cv carbs, and it wont fit to an a20 anyway. My manifold should be done friday. I hope it will be done before I have to go into work. If not then I'll probalby have to wait till monday.

andy

CARBurn
06-27-2002, 07:37 PM
At least you are making some progress.
When will you be able to install it on the car?

PhydeauX
06-28-2002, 09:23 PM
Ok, its back from the welders and its installed. Now before anyone asks me how it runs I just got the carbs on an hour ago and I still dont have the throttle cable hooked up. I did start it though, not an easy task with carbs that have no chokes and the accelerator cable not hooked up. I didn't have to a thing to the carbs to get them to start, it took a second but it started and idled with the base settings (though its realy rich). I had to rev it, it bogs a little but revs alot more freely then it did with the DGV. It also sounds bad ass, no other way to describe it, it has a grunt that is reminicent of old forumla cars from the 40's and 50's. Any way, on to the howto.

I picked it up from the welders this afternoon, turned out better then I expected.

http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/manifold_top.jpg
http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/manifold_front.jpg
http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/manifold_side.jpg

I drilled, taped, and installed the fitting for the brake booster and that took care of the fabricating, so its on to the install.

First step is to get the old manifold off. This is alot easier at the junkyard when you can just cut all the crap out of they because your never going to be putting that car back together. But once its off it looks something like this.

http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/manifold_off.jpg

Next step is to put the new manifold on. Its harder then it looks. That 15° angle and the way the flanges line up makes it just as hard to get at the bottom bolts as it is with the stock manifold, even though there is alot more room. It looks like this when its on.

http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/manifold_on.jpg

Then all thats left is to mount the carbs and hook up the fuel lines, brake booster (that is the only vacuume line in this system), and cables. It looks nice when its all done. I'm not 100% finished yet but it looks so nice that I had to take a few shots.

http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/on_back.jpg
http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/on_left.jpg
http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/on_top.jpg

Besides hooking up the throttle cables I have to get air horns and filters for them. But I'll get that out of the way soon. The throttle cable isn't compadable with my linkage kits, so I'm going to have to modify it a bit.

Oh for those who are wondering how much this ran, this is what I can remember.

2 used DCOE carbs $200
Rebuils parts, linkages, etc $150
Stock A20A1 manifold $7
2ft of 2" OD 1/8" wall aluminum pipe $20
2 prefabricated aluminum DCOE flanges $90
Welding and milling $300
(200 for the welds 100 for the milling, I could have found a cheaper place for that, but then I couldn't have put it on today)

Time: a whole helluva lot

That makes for a grand total of $767 which puts it about $200-$300 less then the average DCOE conversion kit.

andy

locknload68
06-28-2002, 09:30 PM
WOW, that looks amazing. I can't wait to hear about how it really runs. :) :bow:

carotman
06-29-2002, 03:29 AM
whoa, it just looks like the Prelude 1,8 I saw at the drap strip.

Those things are the best looking carbs in the world, not smog legal but still they look good.

guaynabo89
06-29-2002, 07:20 AM
oh yeah. looks good:D :bow:

Do you think your gonna have any clearence problems when the engine tilts back under hard acceleration?

Again looks good. I love custom stuff.

PhydeauX
06-29-2002, 09:05 AM
The clearance shouldn't be an issue, I have about 8-10" between the carbs and the firewall. That will shrink when I put the stacks on there, but they are only about 2" or so (50mm) so that wont be a problem. The #1 barrel is going to be close to the brake booster when the air horn is on, but I dont think its going to be too close. The air cleaners are just foam socks that fit over the stacks, they wont have a problem even if they do hit something. The gen3's engine bay has more room then the gen2's anyway. The firewall is farther back and the master cylender/booster assembly is over more to the left so there should be plenty of room in a gen3.

andy

locknload68
06-29-2002, 09:08 AM
What kind of car were those carbs originally on?

PhydeauX
06-29-2002, 09:12 AM
Not sure exactly, I got them off ebay. I believe it was an older alpha romeo. They came from Italy so it was some sort of european sports car.

andy

1989 DX R
06-29-2002, 09:28 AM
Mmmm...sexy carburetion goodness.

Not smog legal you say? Uh oh...

:bandit:

Justanothermike
06-29-2002, 11:07 AM
nice

1988starter
06-29-2002, 11:20 AM
I cannot wait to hear about it when it is done.

accordlx
06-29-2002, 11:58 AM
Great job on a very hard project. I would have never tried it myself.

CARBurn
06-29-2002, 06:18 PM
You give me and I know a couple of other carb people such inspiration. I don't know how you do it. The manifold looks awesome. I wish I had the time (and money) to invest in a project like that. At least with all these how-to's maybe I will in the future.

Again awesome work

Oh, the power of carbs.:bow:

PhydeauX
06-29-2002, 09:10 PM
Ok, the throttle cable is on and the carbs have a quick tune. Much more of a pain to tune then the DGV, and they dont idle nearly as nice, but as long as it doesn't stall constantly I don't care. I took it for a little spin around the dump and industrial parks. The cops hardly ever go there, unless they get wind of some raceing going on down there. Its a good thing none were around cause this thing is loud, and it gets up to 80 before you know it. It slams up aginst the rev limiter in no time and shifts into second and third cause the tires to squeel and the front end to get a little loose. It doesn't go rich enough under accleration, the pump is a bit small so it bogs when its mashed at low rpm, and there are no air horns on yet, but the only way I can describe it is "it hauls ass". I gotta get some parts, but I hope to take it to the track soon to see how much of an improvement this really makes.

andy

POS carb
06-29-2002, 09:36 PM
haha, sweet. May the carb gods be with you!!

A20A1
07-01-2002, 10:03 PM
:bow: PhydeauX

PhydeauX
07-10-2002, 06:42 PM
I finally got the parts to finish up the carb install. I paid my price for driving it around with out the stacks on to hold the venturis in, when one fell out and got run over. It had to happen right before the 4th to so the shipping took even longer. So besides haveing to get some air cleaners and the stacks I had to order a new aux ventrui. They run $21.50 which wouldn't have been bad except that my carbs are old and they had #3 aux ventruis in them, which are no longer made. So I had to order 4 #4s at $21.50 a pop, do the math, so I really wish I had held off on driving it so much untill I got the stacks on. And then to add insult to injury 2 of the stacks I ordered were miss packaged and were #2s, so I have to send 2 back and wait for them to be replaced with the right ones. I'm running it with 2 of my old #3s and the 2 #4s that came and its driveable. The #4s give more fuel at full throttle then the #3s do and I really shouldn't be doing it, but I don't think any harm will come. This also delayed me trying out the coilovers I installed along with adding some gen1 integra rims complete with rotted junkyard tires. They are all better tires then the ones I had on it, but still miss matched with 3 diferent brands. I only got a little bit of seat time in because little bugs kept coming up that I had to fix (I still want to know how 2 of the spark plug wires managed to come off, gremlins I sware). It rides alot better I think. A little bouncy, but I put 450/350 springs on stock struts (original stock struts on the back) so thats to be expected. I also only have about 1/2" of travel before the fronts hit the stops due to this just being a rig job of a cheap coilover kit that wasn't designed at all for a gen2 accord. Surprisingly this doesn't effect it too much. I never felt it bottom out, bumps don't really slam and jolt it, it squeaked and rattled before so thats no change, it turns in alot better, and it doesn't slam on the back stops when its floored (though that did look cool, it just made for a lot of wheel spin). It still could benefit greatly from a good set of shocks, but that'll have to wait.

Well, thats much more of a rant then I had expected, here's a shot of the carbs with the air horns on and all the linkages are hoked up, no filters yet, the oil's not dry.

http://68.81.205.164:3000/accordpics/dcoe_manifold/airhorns.jpg

andy

MoonScryer
07-11-2002, 06:01 AM
Droolishly beautiful dude.

1988starter
07-11-2002, 09:06 AM
Still looking good keep us updated and try to get a dyno run or a track run.

AccordSi
07-11-2002, 04:31 PM
The webers look great...How do you like the sound? Awesome, huh? I admire the way you took your time and got your project up and running.
What size are the carbs, anyway?...40 0r 45?

accordSi

PhydeauX
07-11-2002, 06:40 PM
The sound great, they are 40s, I wanted to keep more of my midrange.

andy

A20A1
07-16-2002, 06:42 PM
Hmm... i'll keep and eye out for the #3's down here... the 40 webers are pretty common.

Site
08-09-2002, 12:19 PM
Hey Phydeaux, what size are you main venturis? Mine are 30 mm (the used DCOEs came with them). That will supposedly give me the strongest performance from the DCOE 40s at around 4300 rpm, since our engines are 1950 cc, based on what I've read.

PhydeauX
08-09-2002, 09:10 PM
My primaries are 32mm and the aux are 4.5. I lost my book mark of a site that had a good chart of engine displacement/veturi size/rpm range so if you have a link to where you read that can you post it. The site I had also had jetting recomendations. Imho 30mm is too small, even the 32s are too small for the engine to really breathe. I think 34-36 would be a good choice for a performance a20 engine (some 45s with 38mm ventruies would probalby be best for max power, but may make it a bit of a pain to drive around town). I'll eventually get around to getting some, but the ventruies are $22 a piece. You problaby should be thinking about a cam soon to to take full advantage of the carbs, but even with the stock cam you want a target rpm of some where around 5000. The 30s will give you a bit more grunt in the midrange, but it at a sacrifice of top end.

andy


I found the link http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm

Site
08-09-2002, 11:15 PM
Thanks for the info! I already had that link :) That's where I got the info on the 30 mm primary vents. Someday I may save up for 36s, but until then I can hopefully tune the carbs so the 30s give me a great ride.

1989 DX R
11-20-2002, 09:02 PM
So I'm buying a set of DCOE 40's and I'm wondering who *glances at Site and Phydeaux* would know how to piece a manifold for these babies together.

I want to go the "stock manifold >>> matched to the DCOE ports" option...where would be the best place to get a DCOE manifold/mounts?

PhydeauX
11-20-2002, 09:33 PM
I went the route of buying some pre fabed flanges from Pierce Manifolds (www.piercemanifolds.com), then formed the runners out of some aluminum tube, and mated them to an accord flange. Site got his hands on an existing manifold and had it mated to the accord flange. The flanges and tube is going to run you about $100 and its a bit of work. If you can get your hands on a manifold for cheaper then modifying it may be the way to go. If you have the cash you can always drop the flange and carbs off at a fabrication shop, tell them how long you want the runners to be, aprox 3" total is good for a stock motor useing stock 2" weber stacks, and have it tilt down 10°-15°. Closer to 10° is better.

andy

1989 DX R
11-21-2002, 11:50 AM
Ok, I'll make some phone calls, and see what people think it would be.

shepherd79
11-21-2002, 12:51 PM
i think site knows a company that can make manifold for you.

1989 DX R
11-21-2002, 07:05 PM
Ok, so I'm getting my paws on the carbs, and then a stock Honda manifold and the aluminum flanges online. The carbs are rebuilt already, so that takes care of that. What else should I need?

PhydeauX
11-21-2002, 07:40 PM
You'll need some material for the runners and somone to do the welding. www.onlinemetals.com will have what you need for the metal. I recomend 1/8" wall tube. If you're useing the flanges from pierce then you'll need 2" tube. The flanges are sized for 45mm carbs, but its just fine to use them with 40s. I'd recomend tig welding and take it to a reputable shop. The last thing you want is for one of the welds to be bad and it to crack.

A few other things while I'm on it. You're going to need some linkages, air horns, filters, and possibly jets. If you can afford it the PM3714 linkage kit from pierce (its like $90) is one of the best linkages you can get. Its not that hard to throw one together if you'd rather go that way. There are two diferent setups of air intakes for weber carbs. One with air horns and one with out. Which ones you have depends on the style of av (auxiliary venturi) the carbs are fitted with. The weber air horns slide around the the av. If you have carbs that arnt fitted with air horns and you want them them you can either buy weber air horns and some av's that will allow you to mount them (air horns and av's cost $20 a piece), or you can get some mikuni air horns. Or you can just not use the air horns. The air horns increase the air flow of the carbs by 10% or something near that (don't quote me I can't remember). What you decide on the air horns will effect what you can use for air cleaners. If you don't use air horns or if you use very short ones (less then 2/3 the height of the air filter) you can use the k&n style air filters. If you use the air horns then what I feel is the best thing is the foam socks. Similar to what they use on street bikes. They just clamp onto the airhorns, easy to install and remove.

andy

seancornelis
11-23-2002, 12:23 PM
Wouldn't it just be much easier to use a dual carb manifold from the 2nd generation Prelude engine which already fits the A20 and modify that to accept DCOEs?

PhydeauX
11-23-2002, 04:06 PM
Because it doesn't fit the a20.

andy

AccordSi
11-23-2002, 06:46 PM
PhydeauX....I got to say, I respect your knowledge of the DCOEs...you really did your work.