replace head gasket walkthrough. 89 accord dx

[lucytripping]

hey guys, haven't touched my car for a while now because it needs a head gasket, today the work will begin...

i plan on making this a sort of walk through as well as a place for others to ask question along the way as the replace there head gasket (:
theres tons of threads and loads of different answer. in this thread i hope to just bring them all together with answers and results.....

will be posting pictures, videos hopefullly, and detailed info.
support will be greatly appreciated. ill be off to the store soon to pick up my head gasket set, timing belt, and some tools... ie torque wrench, breaker bar... things to make a little easier.

well im in town i want to know what i should grab to clean the cylinder head and engine block, i know it is best to have resurfaced at a machine shop but money is tight and ive been out of work since car is not running,
any tips on good way to clean the mating surface would be nice.

should have an introduction to basics of what is needed for this job, where to start, and then the tear down either tonight or tomorrow morning!

i hope others will come together to help when needed and make this a whole lot easier,
WE NEED LESS TIME SCANNING THE WEB AND MORE TIME UNDER THE HOOD,
lets bring all answers and opinions as well as the outcome to one place

[Dr_Snooz]

Good times! Can't wait to see what you do.

[NotFast]

It's pretty simple. Just time consuming. Took my stepdad and I 12 hours to do it on my integra.

[lucytripping]

The procedure seems straight forward, but like you said very time consuming.

And spent more time in town today then i wanted, did get to car till 9 don't want to work in dark lol

[LewZur]

My biggest headache are the damn middle nuts on the intake side.:mad: I probably lack the proper tools, but I can make it work. Although, the last time I changed the head gasket, I got so f-ing mad at those nuts I had to stop and resume work the next day. :lol:

[JDMwhore]

I found out you really don't need to remove the intake off of the head just the bolt on the bracket. Lift the head with it on worked for me.

[LewZur]

I found out you really don't need to remove the intake off of the head just the bolt on the bracket. Lift the head with it on worked for me.

Never thought of that, but when I do (or should I say every time I have done) a head gasket I pull the head apart and check to make sure it's straight and clean the valves and do the valve seals. Next time you do a head gasket post some pics, because I can't wrap my head around being able to ensure the block and head are clean.

[lucytripping]

Taking my time to make sure i do right and don't miss any thing, also the how to with pictures and tips will come after completed....

NEED SOME TIPS THOUGH.
I decided not to pull intake off with head to ensure every thing looks proper like lewZur said.,
So far ive removed valve cover, timing belt and almost everything attached to the intake.. and i think the valves need a cleaning really bad, any tips on how to do so?

And any tips on unfastening wire harness clip thingys would be EXTREMELY helpful. They are extremely hard to remove,
I got pissed off and cut one so now i have to splice it, but dont like the idea of having a bunch of spliced electrical things,
And i my heat cover for exhaust manifold wont come off because the o2 sensor, and i cant get it to lossen

[LewZur]

NEED SOME TIPS THOUGH.
I decided not to pull intake off with head to ensure every thing looks proper like lewZur said.,
So far ive removed valve cover, timing belt and almost everything attached to the intake.. and i think the valves need a cleaning really bad, any tips on how to do so?

And any tips on unfastening wire harness clip thingys would be EXTREMELY helpful. They are extremely hard to remove,
I got pissed off and cut one so now i have to splice it, but dont like the idea of having a bunch of spliced electrical things,
And i my heat cover for exhaust manifold wont come off because the o2 sensor, and i cant get it to lossen

you shouldn't have to take the exhaust cover completely off to get the manifold off, just removed from the manifold so you can get to the bolts. But, if you follow the pigtails of the o2 sensors you can unplug them and pull the heatshield off that way. Also, what harness are you disconnecting? I don't remember having to disconnect a harness, just move the clip that's bolted to the valve cover out of the way. Pics of the harness would be helpful, because the only thing I can think of off the top of my head is the fuel injector harness which you wouldn't remove.

[LewZur]

Most of the connectors, if not all somebody help me out here, on the Honda will either be pushed down or a clip will be raised up with ur thumb to disconnect.

[Charlie5280]

Sounds great

[lucytripping]

Oh i want to remove cover just for a little more room, i don't believe this car has had any work other then regular tune ups since 1989.

And sorry don't mean entire harness just like clips that connect to stuff like alternator or solenoids

[LewZur]

Oh i want to remove cover just for a little more room, i don't believe this car has had any work other then regular tune ups since 1989.

And sorry don't mean entire harness just like clips that connect to stuff like alternator or solenoids

Well if you unplug the o2 sensors, you can just feed the wire through the heatshield and remove it that way. As far as unplugging things, everything that clips can either be removed by pushing the clip down and sliding back or lifting it up, as far as I remember. I wouldn't take off more than you have to. Maybe this will help, here are some pics of the A20 out of the car for reference. Sometimes it helps to see the engine without the subframe blocking the view.
http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu155/3rdGenDX/1988%20Accord%20DX/engine1-1.jpg (http://s643.photobucket.com/user/3rdGenDX/media/1988%20Accord%20DX/engine1-1.jpg.html)
http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu155/3rdGenDX/1988%20Accord%20DX/engine2.jpg (http://s643.photobucket.com/user/3rdGenDX/media/1988%20Accord%20DX/engine2.jpg.html)
http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu155/3rdGenDX/1988%20Accord%20DX/engine3.jpg (http://s643.photobucket.com/user/3rdGenDX/media/1988%20Accord%20DX/engine3.jpg.html)

[lucytripping]

Thank you, look i got it to uncli. like you said lift up.....
Haha i don't think I've seen a clip that you push up, ha.
Learned to breathe a little when i get frustrated haha

[Dr_Snooz]

I got pissed off and cut one so now i have to splice it,


Learned to breathe a little when i get frustrated haha

Good to hear you're learning to breathe. If you're getting so frustrated that you're ready to destroy things, it's time to take a break. Walk away, get a beer, get some sleep. Come back when you're fresh and have had a chance to think through things. You're only setting your project back by breaking stuff. I learned that lesson the hard way. I also tend to injure myself horribly when I work tired and frustrated.

The best way to clean valves and keep them clean is by using only top tier gas. The occasional Italian tune up is also a good idea, but mostly, just run good gas.

Also... when are you going to post pics?

[lucytripping]

Glad to be learning!
Pics are coming after project is completed, intention was to have very detailed walkthrough with pictures.

Very curious is this normal?!
Got cylinder head off and noticed that some valves were open? (Sticking out) i did set #1 piston to tdc. And havent seen anything about this?
Just curious as to if its okay?
Id post a photo but i have no clue how on my phone

[Dr_Snooz]

Normal.

[lucytripping]

Thank you

[lucytripping]

A little set back... need help

So im petty sure one of my dick head roommates rubbed off the mark on my timing belt , how do i go about getting it all back in the right spot?

[HLW]

With cylinder #1 at top dead center (TDC mark on flywheel/flex-plate is aligned with the timing mark) set the cam shaft to tdc on cylinder #1 using the marks on the back of the camshaft gear (side tward the head) and the Up arrow/mark on the camshaft gear.

The camshaft timing marks on the back line up with the mating surface for the valve cover. The marks will line up for both TDC on cylinder 1 and cylinder 4. When the camshaft is lined up for TDC on cylinder 1, the up arrow/mark will point up. If the up arrow.mark points down, it is set for TDC on Cylinder 4.

With both the cranckshaft and camshaft at TDC on cylinder 1, you can put the timing belt on .

I found it easier to set the crankshaft just a little before TDC on cylinder 1 to put the timing belt on. That way you can put the belt on and when you adjust the tension both the crankshaft (which moves easily) and the camshaft end up properly aligned.

[lucytripping]

That is by far one of the best/most helpful explanation and solution i have read anywhere.
Its dark out now but i can get to it tomorrow thank YOU(:

[lucytripping]

So i think its all lined up but not 100% how tight should the belt be

[HLW]

There is a spring attached to the tensioner. The spring sets the proper tension as long as it is not old and worn out.

To set the tension, make sure the tensioner bolt is not all the way tightened so the spring can pull on the tensioner. Turn the engine by hand so 3 teeth on the belt pass any given point, then tighten the tensioner bolt. The proceedure is in the factory service manual.

When the belt is tensioned, turn the engine to TDC on cylinder 1 and check that the crankshaft and cam shaft are both at TDC for cylinder 1. If at any point while turning the engine slowly, it gets to a point where you can't turn it by hand a waiting a few seconds to let the compression leak out, don't force it, you may have a valve interfering with the piston. I'm not sure if the A20A engines are interference or non-interference engines.

[gyates93]

^^Non-interference from what I know, there tends to be confusion on this.

[Dr_Snooz]

Non-interference. We've had numerous members throw timing belts and no one has bent a valve yet.

[lucytripping]

Okay well only have had time here and there recently.. and im near giving up.....
I believe it's something with timing? I could see cylinders 1 an 4 through the spark plug ports car continues to to crank but no start?

[Hazwan]

How are your timing marks on the flywheel and camshaft pulley? Are they aligned perfectly? If so I'll check for the usual, spark and fuel. Try some starting fluid and see.

Or you could have a giant vacuum leak from the intake manifold/carb/vacuum lines. Mine refused to start before when I had a huge leak between the intake and the head.

[lucytripping]

Got it running but barely think I'm having a fuel issue.... very sluggish when driven.

Was barely able to find tdc Mark on fly wheel, put it to tdc then aligned it with can shaft pulley and put timing belt on....
New question? After putting belt on and tightening did a full rotation(until camshaft pulley was facing "up") but on flywheel i could not see tdc Mark again! I should be able to after full rotation right?

[lucytripping]

Dumb question, answer found!
Sorry.

[Dr_Snooz]

Always check the TDC marks after installing the belt as well. It's easy to move the crankshaft while pulling on the belt and that will cause what you're experiencing.

[lucytripping]

Just update:
As promised a detailed Wright up is on its way.
Cars just giving me one problem after the other.
On top of getting her running properly, working graveyards an Trying to pass this quarter. It's hard to find time. Aha

But the headgasket was replaced successfully!

Sent from my ZTE_N9511 using Tapatalk

[niles]

Any pics yet Lucytripping? I am about to replace mine...

[kumartypeR]

This guy never posted pictures!! Man if you cant post pictures, then u should post them on your facebook or something then post your facebook link onto your post here at 3geezs

[Dr_Snooz]

Maybe she's still tripping?

[NXRacer]

With cylinder #1 at top dead center (TDC mark on flywheel/flex-plate is aligned with the timing mark) set the cam shaft to tdc on cylinder #1 using the marks on the back of the camshaft gear (side tward the head) and the Up arrow/mark on the camshaft gear.

The camshaft timing marks on the back line up with the mating surface for the valve cover. The marks will line up for both TDC on cylinder 1 and cylinder 4. When the camshaft is lined up for TDC on cylinder 1, the up arrow/mark will point up. If the up arrow.mark points down, it is set for TDC on Cylinder 4.

With both the cranckshaft and camshaft at TDC on cylinder 1, you can put the timing belt on .

I found it easier to set the crankshaft just a little before TDC on cylinder 1 to put the timing belt on. That way you can put the belt on and when you adjust the tension both the crankshaft (which moves easily) and the camshaft end up properly aligned.

This thread needs to be kept alive for that line only.

[Dr_Snooz]

It's printed in the manual with a nice pic to make it even clearer.