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Thread: $50 paint job...dyi..and hot as hell

  1. #201
    SEi User gp02a0083's Avatar
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    Re: $50 paint job...dyi..and hot as hell

    Quote Originally Posted by AC439 View Post
    When I did the 2000 wet sanding, a little bit water seemed to be able float the sand paper making it not cutting into the paint. That may be the reason that I am not getting a smooth enough surface before compounding / polishing.

    I read about clay bar but they all saying it is to remove dirt but will not remove or cut into paint. I thought clay bar would *fill* imperfection on paint surface but apparently is not. Will clay bar help in my situation ?
    clay bars are mainly used as the first part in paint correction ( after a good wash). this is used to trap surface contaminants into the clay, avoiding the dirt nibs being chucked around causing further scratches.

    i do commend your attempt using a DA for wet-sanding, however i would advise against it for now until your very familiar with using it and have a good water source. I have and will always use a "soft-bloc " you can find them even at wall mart (used to be near the sanding and bondo crap), keep pressure even and criss cross pattern alternating and using lots and lots of water.

    your issue with the paint not being a high luster may be rooted into the paint. You used a enamel based paint if I'm not mistaken and how long has it been since you sprayed? Anytime that I've used enamel ( mind you it was automotive based single stage enamel) you can get a good shine off of it but not like you can with even lacquer or urethane based paints. Another part of the issue is possibly how many coats you have applied and in what time frame. I spray Enamel based paints all the time on glass substrates and more often than not you will develop a surface haze that occurs when the previous layer did not out gas its solvents ( not enough to cause solvent pop but enough to mudd up the surface). For instance I use the 8min "quick-dry" stuff in the rattle cans, even if i allow 15min for flash off / dry time in between coats it still remains gummy. I even tried lightly cooking the painted glass in our environmental chamber up to 100F for 3-4 days and it barely hardened. possibly a reason you are able to knock down the orange peel but unable to get a high luster.
    Last edited by gp02a0083; 04-06-2017 at 06:01 AM.

    1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
    1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
    3Geez resident body man
    Owner of Wreck-less auto body



  2. #202
    LX User AC439's Avatar
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    Red face Re: $50 paint job...dyi..and hot as hell

    Thanks for reply and honestly I do not expect this paint job comparable to a spray job done by a shop. I have painted about 6 to 7 layers of Rustoleum. I do remember it was more shiny right after it was painted into the next few days. Then it seems getting more hazy on the surface. Could be very well the reason you stated.

    I also think that I'm probably not using the DA polisher correctly or not having the skills. Today I did the trunk "all by hand" and I'm pleased with the result - 1000 wet sand -> 2000 wet sand -> turtle wax rubbing 2 passes -> turtle wax polishing 1 pass -> Simoniz hard shell wax (instead of lazy spray wax). The result is very good.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -dsc03846-jpg   -dsc03849-jpg   -dsc03850-jpg   -dsc03851-jpg  
    Last edited by AC439; 04-08-2017 at 09:15 AM.

  3. #203
    LX User AC439's Avatar
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    Smile Found the recipe for buffing

    I think I found the recipe of the buffing: I still have to wet sand 1000 then 2000. Afterwards, I use Turtle wax Ice speed compound. This compound is much more liquid like milk. I put it on my DA polisher on an orange pad. Put quite a bit on the pad and let it soak in. Then buff it with slowest speed (about 1500 rpm). This way, I can do many passes over the area without it drying up like the regular TW rubbing compound. I did 3 to 4 passes. Those hard to reach area, I did it by hand. Please refer to the pics below. I have not use the scratching removal compound yet but I will.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -dsc03871-jpg   -dsc03872-jpg   -dsc03873-jpg  

  4. #204

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: $50 paint job...dyi..and hot as hell

    Looking really good!
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


    1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 208k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap, nuthin' else

  5. #205
    LX User AC439's Avatar
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    Re: $50 paint job...dyi..and hot as hell

    Took my car to a mechanic friend, asked him to look at the body and paint. I didn't tell him what I did at first. He asked "you had it painted ?", I went "I did it in my garage." He asked if I sprayed with aerosol cans, I told him just rustoleum with paint brush, wet sand, compound, polish, no spray. He checked on the paint surface said even some spray paint jobs won't get this smooth. Apparently I surprised him.

    Snooz is right that it is very labor and time intensive. It took me on and off for 2 months to get to this stage. But I also made mistakes at the beginning. Also a few trial and error to figure out the way to compound it. Also, every time I compound the car, I could only do one panel at a time. For example, the orange pad needed to be washed after working a quarter panel or it won't cut anymore. I have one orange pad so I can't do the entire car even I have time.

    But it turns out to be great and I no longer need to park my car at the furthest spot of the parking lot. I'm no longer feeling embarrassed to park close to the entrance of any buildings.

    If I can do it, so can you ! All you need is commitment.
    Last edited by AC439; 04-26-2017 at 07:14 PM.

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