Bleeder valve

I recently replaced my master cylinder so to finish up the job I went to bleed the brakes at all four corners Following the recommended sequence. Everything was going good until I got to the front driver side. When I turn the bleeder valve nothing happens. No fluid comes out nor does the pedal go to the floor on the inside. Is this a bad bleeder screw or caliper?

As a side note I've had trouble with warping rotors lately which I guess could easily be explained if the calipers weren't functioning properly. Is there a way to definitively check to see what needs fixed?

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Originally Posted by stuntjunkie199

I recently replaced my master cylinder so to finish up the job I went to bleed the brakes at all four corners Following the recommended sequence. Everything was going good until I got to the front driver side. When I turn the bleeder valve nothing happens. No fluid comes out nor does the pedal go to the floor on the inside. Is this a bad bleeder screw or caliper?

As a side note I've had trouble with warping rotors lately which I guess could easily be explained if the calipers weren't functioning properly. Is there a way to definitively check to see what needs fixed?

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Bleeders can rust up. Take it out and try cleaning it or replace it.

Warping rotor could be from stuck calipers. I used to warp mine quite a bit so i up sized the rotors.

I took my bleeder out and sure enough it looked awful. Cleaned it up with a wire wheel and an air compressor and sure enough I bled the wheel no problem.

My question now is should I still replace the caliper? If the bleeder is rusted that bad I would think other vital areas of the caliper are rusted as well. The only reason it concerns me is that I'm about to put another fresh set of rotors on and I really don't want a sticking or ill fated caliper to toast a brand new rotor. I have no reason to believe this is what done the last set in but them again they did warp in less than ~1500 miles and I drive like a grandpa. Lol.

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Originally Posted by stuntjunkie199

I drive like a grandpa. Lol.

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Says stuntjunkie199. LOL

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Originally Posted by stuntjunkie199

I took my bleeder out and sure enough it looked awful. Cleaned it up with a wire wheel and an air compressor and sure enough I bled the wheel no problem.

My question now is should I still replace the caliper? If the bleeder is rusted that bad I would think other vital areas of the caliper are rusted as well. The only reason it concerns me is that I'm about to put another fresh set of rotors on and I really don't want a sticking or ill fated caliper to toast a brand new rotor. I have no reason to believe this is what done the last set in but them again they did warp in less than ~1500 miles and I drive like a grandpa. Lol.

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It should be fairly easy to tell if your calipers are sticking.. Check the condition of the piston and see how easy it is to move when you try to compress it to do your brake job. Also, have a look at the bolts that the caliper slides on. Everything should be greased and moving freely. If you warped a set of rotors in 1500 miles you either have very sub-par rotors or there's something going on to create some serious heat. This could mean a frequent heavy foot on the brake. Switching to ceramic pads could also help.

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Originally Posted by gyates93

It should be fairly easy to tell if your calipers are sticking.. Check the condition of the piston and see how easy it is to move when you try to compress it to do your brake job. Also, have a look at the bolts that the caliper slides on. Everything should be greased and moving freely. If you warped a set of rotors in 1500 miles you either have very sub-par rotors or there's something going on to create some serious heat. This could mean a frequent heavy foot on the brake. Switching to ceramic pads could also help.

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Well I messed around with the calipers for a while and they really feel ok to me. I mean the pistons don't go back easily but I think it's reasonable amount of force. I can push em in on both sides with a plastic clamp. I think I'm gonna just switch to good ceramic pads with new rotors and see what happens. Thanks

Im late but if your bleeder was rusted up enough to not flow then I would imagine the calipers are rust laden too. The piston is just sticking in the bore a little. Most times on a pad replacement pushing the piston in is enough to clean up the rust ridge and the new pads are on a new spot on the piston. But since your already warped rotors in 1500 miles I would think about new calipers and slider pins.

I have purchased a new set of calipers where they did not replace the bleeder screws. They rebuilt and cleaned up everything else, so i would not go by the condition of the bleeder to determine if the caliper is bad or not.