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ok,
i am gonna do this project. my friend's dad has 2 barel holly from his truck. he doesn't need anymore, he's got 4bbr.
anyway, my friend is going to make me adapter from aluminum.
so what do you think? is it worth it?
oh one more thing. how tall is the weber carb?
i am gonna try to go without cutting the hood for clearence.
"so what do you think? is it worth it?"
Absolutely! You could be the first Holley powered 3Gee! Can you find the carb here: http://www.carbs.net/holstart.htm to give us an idea of which one you're talking about?
i haven't seen the carb myself. i just know he has it.
i will get it tomorrow.
i put a four barrel on a 1982 ford escort! it had no throttle response... that was a bush car for me when i couldnt legaly drive!!!
Travis
PS i didnt keep the holley on i switched back to the little two barrel!~
why didn't you have trottle response?
what was the carb too big or what?
i am gonna go with 2barrel. it is ford factory carb. so i am guessing may be 350 - 450 cfm max.
The venturi's are one of the main problems with larger carbs... as well as the jets... and not all jets can be removed on holleys.
I think the smaller the venturi the easier the fuel can be delivered.
LOOK UP:
Over carburetion
thats basicly why he got no throttle response.
250cfm - 300cfm is what you should be looking for though.
you could however turn a 3bbl into a 4bbl if each barrels fuel circuits are independent.
close off one of the primarys and all of it's jets.
ok here is what i got. i just picked up this carb.
this is Motorcraft D4TE-HA carb. was available for almost any V8 ford engine.
http://webpages.shepherd.edu/abetke01/mycar/carb.jpg
http://webpages.shepherd.edu/abetke01/mycar/carb2.jpg
http://webpages.shepherd.edu/abetke01/mycar/carb3.jpg
i just did a search and found out that it is 350-360cfm.
is it going to be too much?
ford also made 200cfm which is not enough, i think our engines would need at least 230cfm.
it has 1.21" venturies and 1.56" bore.
it says that it will need 8.5psi fuel pressure, but my friend's dad says it doesn't matter my pump should handle it.
Hey mike (a20a1) can you post the dimentions of the adapter plate for the weber. thanks.
it came from '75 ford truck 1/2 ton with 360 engine.
which adapter plate?
the weber may have the same bolt pattern but the spacing whould be different... I was looking onto a 2bbl to 4bbl adapter plate to see if I could add that ontop of the weber plate.
the studs need about a 5/16" hole
the spacing of the weber studs are about:
1 - 13/16" left to right
3 - 11/16" front to back
I made the measurement from the center of each stud
read the info on the carb above.
350 is too much
but 200 CFM is better then our keihins 180 CFM
problem with high CFM is if the engine isn't pulling 300 cfm the carb wont get the proper vacuum signals, and then it just makes the carb useless.
i will try this carb, and if it won't work i can always get another one from junk yard.
"i will try this carb, and if it won't work i can always get another one from junk yard."
Sweet! Man, that's the way to do it. Why not give stuff a try and if it doesn't work, see if you can MAKE it work. If all else fails, just put things back the way they were.
I'm pumped about following your progress on this.
I saw a 250 CFM 2bbl TBI... not sure where though.
It came with the programable ECU and software.
hmmm, that may be interesting.
anyway, here is what i thought about adapter plates.
I would use the Honda to weber adapter, than i would use holley to weber (i will have to flip that one). just bolt them together.
this way if i want i can use weber.
anyway, how thick is the adapter from honda to weber?
i droped the motorcraft carb on the intake and it has like at least good 4 inches without any plate.
i hope adapter plates won't take much room.
oh yeah, i found 250cfm motorcraft on ebay.
but i won't buy it untill i have this one running.
OK here is what i have come up.
this is stock intake.
and you can see that intake has diff barrels sizes.
http://webpages.shepherd.edu/abetke01/mycar/intake2.jpg
but this is what i am wanna do.
make the primary about the same size may be a little bigger, secondary will become bigger too.
http://webpages.shepherd.edu/abetke01/mycar/intake.jpg
what do you think?
the other idea i have is to get rid of the middle part that separates the to barrels. it has the wall inside the intake. i would take that one out too.
what do you think about this idea?
i am looking for logical answers.
thanks guys.
It's a little less than 1" high with all the gaskets.
That would make a single plenum manifold... or a single stage rather.
You'll lose some low end torque and HP but the top end should be better. Then factor in the height of all the adapter plates and you increase the plenum volume and regain some low end again.
If you get rid of the center wall might as well bore out the entire center to a square like shape... I'll use your pic and modify it.
it's a good idea to plug that coolant passage that was drilled in the top right corner above the primary barrel.
Here you go
I labled it just in case someone want's parts identified later on
sweet,
that is what i thought when i was looking at the manifold.
do we really need that many manifold vacuum tap.
can i get rid of the two in each side and keep the one on the back?
what about the coolant line? do we need it? or i can block it too.
thanks mike.
so it should be around 2" high. i think i should have enough room for the air cleaner. if not, jig saw here i came.
if you don't hook up the coolant line expect cold start problems to last a lot longer... 10 - 15 minuets.
Without choke it usualy lasts just 5 minuets.
You can bypass the manifold heater by using a long cooloant line from the water pump pipe to the thermostat housing.
then you'll need to remove the intake manifold and plug the small hose that comes off the center of the water pipe and connects to the base plate of the carb.
no, i think i will keep the intake coolant but i will remove the one that goes to the carb.
just use the vacuum tap in the back.
