float level

I know that this subject was touched on before but i couldnt find anything doing a search so

my manual doesnt show where the float level should be at....it shows a diagram with a clear window and a dot in the middle it should be at but mine has to notches...one lower and one higherr on the window.....
is the level supposed to be in the middle of the glass or at one of the notches??????

AND ALSO when adjusting the float level is it normal for gas to come out the top of the adjustment screw???:wtf:

it says only turn it a 1/8 a turn every 15seconds and i was doing that and then all the suden it starts coming out the top of the screw so i screwed it in till it stopped....
has anyone experienced this and what do you do to stop it...does it need a new seal or something then..???

i already need to replace the rear main seal..the cam seal so whats another seal gonna hurt..:mad:

SO thanks in adavance for the help...the mechanic told me to make sure that all the fuel and sensors work right before changing the distributor or other parts...

BEn

you'll need to take the top off now and reset the float position after you get a new O-ring on the set screw.

yeah man, your o-ring is busted. it is normal for our carb.
the level should be between those two levels. unless you adjusted your mixture screw your level should be between.

thanks....thats not to hard to do.....but
you dont happen to know the size of the o ring do any of you????????


i was planning on doing this tomorow night but ......i guess i got to get the new o ring then first....

BEn

it's a tough find... unless you buy the rebuild kit.

too thick of and o-ring and you can't screw the float adjuster back in... to thin and gas leaks... all the o-rings I buy fail again if I try and remove the screw like after a week or so of running the carb... I suggest you find the right size and buy a hand full.

A20A1

so all i have to do is remove the screw and put on a new one and then replace the screw in the hole and then reset the float level????????

and what size is the darn seal????

i sure hope this thing doesnt start leaking tomorow morning......i got to drive an hour to work!!!!...

grr....i wouldnt have touched the level if i knew that the seals are prone to leak.....i work the fricken stupid shifts at work and have no time to work on it ...

thanks for the help though...

BEN

I have a rebuild kit at hand. The needle & seat assembly has two O rings. The one you need is probably the top one: 9mm diameter, 1mm width. But as Doug mentioned, u have to remove carb top (6 screws) cuz seat assembly is screwed in from the bottom... might as well clean it!

Go here: http://www.geocities.com/accord89lx/Carbtech.html and Scroll to about the middle of the page

ok thanks alot you guys....

man the information you guys have is awesome..!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ive taken the top off once and cleaned it all ready so i know what to do otherwise.....
im going to go and get an assortment of seals and then try to redo the float level again......so thein i have them at hand and ready to put in...

Thanks o all you and to a20a1 for the great pictures...
i guess i shouldave known that after 13 years the seals may be a little brittle....o well time to rebuild next spring..

Later .
BEn

http://87accord.com/carbpage.html
this may be of some help when it comes time to set the float, I scanned the sheet from a rebuild kit and it explains how to set the float. I'd suggest taking the top off the carb and removing the float set scew and take both of them with you to a good hardware store, or a Home Depot or such that has a good selection of O-rings then you can figure out which one you need.

I'm thinking you will have to back out that screw alittle before you'll be able to go too far in the car becasue if you really did screw it down you're probably gonna have a problem with the bowl not getting enough fuel.

to remove the screw you will have to remove the float. than it should just uncrew very easy. then ask your friends or take someone elses car and go to autozone and ask for o-ring. they have them in diff sizes and you can buy as many as you need.

THanks for the help...

Well the float level is fine for now...im goign to rebuild her next year sometime....

but i did take the carb off and seal up the base and clean the entire throttle and linkages and check the hoses real well....and shes running better but still has a missfire...

so im gogin to try find a replacement distributor and see if that helps more.....

I did also find a vacuum leak on the carb but i need to rebuild it before it seals it.....i think that after 13 years all the seals are starting to loose there strenght of sealing and leaking....hence my rear main seal and cam seal leaks now....as asoon as the cold weather hit they started flowing like a river.....

so now i got the problems figureed out but need the money to fix all of them...
1st rear main seal and clutch..
then rear brakes and bearings
then distributor and carb rebuild..
then timing belt and cam seals and crank seal.

after that the 3gee better be good otherwise #$%#@


SO thanks for all the help and have a MERRY CHRISTMAS>>>>

i just got me some stuff for my car....a trouble light and a 32mm socket so i can do the tranny and clutch soon!!!

yahhhh

I think my float level getting screwed up is my carb problem:

Driving normal, all of a sudden (well, after revving it over 3.5k at low speeds) it seems the fuel would cut out and the idle would (very quickly) fall back to 0 no matter how much I rev (it does rev up for a second). Then after 5-10 minutes of revving in a parking lot, the problem would go away. Hence I think (but I'm no expert here) that the float, or the float valve is getting stuck and unstuck.

I can't think of any other component that can so suddenly not work, and then work again. The choke plate is manually secured in an open position, so it's not a choke problem. I replaced the fuel filters 2 weeks ago, fuel pump has only 10k on it... Can it be power valve related? Or just a funky vacuum leak?

As far as for fixing the float problem, should I replace the whole float valve, or can it simply be the bad o-rings?

Thanks :D

Well did you actually check the float level?

You need to watch it... at idle at part throttle and at wide open throttle. pull the throttle cable by hand if you need to.

The level should be in the center of the float bowl.

Don't adjust the float setting without first checking the float level... don't adjust the float setting without ruling out possible fuel pump and fuel filter problems.

You don't replace the whole float valve... the valve is solid brass and isn't going to fail... there are parts like the float needle and o-rings that can be replaced.

If the upper o-ring leaks fuel will come out of the screw adjustment hole...
If the lower o-ring leaks fuel will come out of the bottom of the adjustment screw and the float needle can't stop it so your float will over fill... you'll end yup with too high a float setting. This isn't fixable by adjusting the screw... only in rare lucky ass cases can you do that... in most cases you need to replace both o-rings at the same time, then you can set the float level....

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?p=481039#post481039

.
.
.
.

Also this thread is helpful in hooking up your carb so you can run it without the air box on... This is the best way to do it since you get a clear view of the carb float bowl window and the adjustment screws.

https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=38108

.
.
.
.

Thanks, will do :D.

Wow talk about reviving a old thread....hahaha..
I totally forgot about it...
To be honest i still havent even rebuilt my carb! its still running great and i still get awesome gas mileage...I drove almost althe way across canada and back and from my home to mexico border and running on 85 pump in california and nevada!!

i just clean it regularly with carb clean and keep the vacuum system working good.. i cleaned most of my little valves and thermovalves with brake clean to get rid of the little rubbery build up in them gone and they dont stick and screw up anymore!~!

the 3gee is strong and even in -30 celcius weather fired right up!!!!!