Restore rebuild first timer/ necromancer raising a dead art

Alright so this is going to be a progress/I need help thread. I am currently in the middle of redoing my headlight. I have the classic retractable sealed beams. Now I'm wanting to take this whole car down to the basic systems. I'm deleting my power steering, my a/c system. I want it to have that clean engine bay look. So my first question is when removing the power steering how many holes am I going to have to deal up. Cause I'm following Al the lines I'm going to be removing. Andwhat advice does anyone have. Should I use a bolt as a plug or seal it off? Also when u remove the whole pump does it affect any other systems with hosing? Next question is with my head light how does one go about rewiring the whole thing? I'm very OCD and have the patience to do a rewire. But what am I'm going to run into inside the cabin of the car going through the firewall and to the engine bay to the actual headlights? This is just the start. Next stage is switching from kehnin to a Weber also doing the stage 4 vaccum delete. And clutch replacement. So I hope there's some people on here that can still help or want to. Thank you in advance. And I hope to hear from you guys.

not the power steering! it's so good in these cars!
what kind of weber are you looking at getting?
Why do you want to rewire the headlights?

Weber redline 32/36. And I'm redoing my headlights because my wires snapped on my left head light and I'm having to rewire it anyways. I'm having trouble getting my high beams to work. My lowbeams work now just not my high beams. But I'm eventually working towards a clean build look. I already found an 89 LX-I hatch that I'm going to most likely make my project car. Since I'm poor and can't afford an actual AE86 I'm going to make an AE86 clone.

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Originally Posted by abvddon666

Alright so this is going to be a progress/I need help thread. I am currently in the middle of redoing my headlight. I have the classic retractable sealed beams. Now I'm wanting to take this whole car down to the basic systems. I'm deleting my power steering, my a/c system. I want it to have that clean engine bay look. So my first question is when removing the power steering how many holes am I going to have to deal up. Cause I'm following Al the lines I'm going to be removing. Andwhat advice does anyone have. Should I use a bolt as a plug or seal it off? Also when u remove the whole pump does it affect any other systems with hosing? Next question is with my head light how does one go about rewiring the whole thing? I'm very OCD and have the patience to do a rewire. But what am I'm going to run into inside the cabin of the car going through the firewall and to the engine bay to the actual headlights? This is just the start. Next stage is switching from kehnin to a Weber also doing the stage 4 vaccum delete. And clutch replacement. So I hope there's some people on here that can still help or want to. Thank you in advance. And I hope to hear from you guys.

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Another question, are the front and back springs the same size? Cause if so I'll just buy 4 of the ones I found. They're only listing as front springs though.

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Originally Posted by abvddon666

Another question, are the front and back springs the same size? Cause if so I'll just buy 4 of the ones I found. They're only listing as front springs though.

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Front and rear springs are different. And on your power steering pump removal I would put the reservoir on the firewall and reroute the lines to it to keep the rack lubricated

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Originally Posted by Shane86

Front and rear springs are different. And on your power steering pump removal I would put the reservoir on the firewall and reroute the lines to it to keep the rack lubricated

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Update#4
So while rewiring my lefthead light to get it working I was not able to do so 100% successfully. It has power but it only has power when my low beams are selected on the CS. But the highbeam is whats being projected out of my left head light. And a low beam is being projected out of the right. I tried and tried and could not get it to work any other way. There are three wires coming out of the bulb connector but I have 4 wires to hook up. When doing the reconnect I initially tried reconnecting the same colored wires. I didn't get any juice by doing that. So now I'm lost. I can post pics if that will help anyone give me an answer. Just let me know what you think.

Now for my next part I'm going to be rerouting my power steering resivoir since im deleting the pump. I need a parts list though because I am going to be replacing my clutch here soon. I'm wanting to get a stage 2 and a light weight fly wheel. Should I also replace the bearing and clutch fork? And would I need to upgrade my master cylinder or slave cylinder since I'm getting a more stuff plate? And what brand(s) do you suggest for clutches?

Another part I'm curious about is. I'm eventually doing a carb swap when I do so. Should I do my vacuum delete before the swap or with it, also when I delete my A/C should I delete it before during or after? Would like to do it all at once if that is possible. Thanks for the feedback.

I didn't look at the wiring diagram. But out of the three pins that come off the headlight, i believe the middle is a shared ground. Then one side is high beam power and other side is low beam power. It would be easy to test.

I would do the carb swap and vacuum delete at the same time.

No slave cylinder.
Clutch is cable.

Do yourself a favor and remove the power steering belt before doing anything with the steering. Drive around like that for a couple weeks to make sure that's what you want.

Still need to do the tinker on it. But what would you guys suggest for that natural road feel? I can only think to remove the power steering but this is my first car I'm working on and customizing. So I'm learning. I want the old school natural road feel and that clean bare bone engine bay look. I love it.

Go get a 1st gen CRX. They came with no power steering/manual rack

I'm a massive fan of the power steering on these cars. Even the 2000 Accord we had wasn't as good. The only one that came close was the '13 focus I had but whilst the steering was quick, it was pretty sloppy.
I always give the example of how I can sit at a standstill in the 3g and just spin the wheel with my pinky finger.

but, to each his own.

Not really an authority but I did remove my A/C compressor to no ill effect. Didn't remove all the tubing, which it sounds like you would want to do. I believe you have to get the box out from the panel under the glove box.

If you're going for natural road feel, then a disabled power steering system definitely will not give you that. There were some legends about a manual steering rack for these cars that got put on some Canadian models, but no one ever actually found one that I'm aware of. You might be able to retrofit a manual rack from another car into yours, but it would require some sophisticated fabbing to do.

Give the current system half a chance. There are few cars in the world with steering as nice as what you have right now.

I may end up keeping it. I just need to refresh that system I suppose. I will say it is very smooth while still giving me that 'road feel' I enjoy it more than other powers teeing systems that I've had. I can't stand being able to steer with my pinky. It's cool for like 5 minutes. I just don't like it cause I can't feel anything. Feels like I'm steering with a stick of butter. And.... I'm sure a lot of people like that. But I guess I'm old fashioned lol. The main reason I like these cars is because they have that classic JDM look. My dreams cars are a Hakosuka Skyline, JZX100, AE86. AE88, and a KE71. But.....all of those cars are rare or expensive to refurb. So... I'm going with the budget friendly version. I want a drift car. But I'm using this car as practice on making my cars in the future exactly how I want them. I definitely have some aspiration. Sorry for Ramblin.

Is there a website that you can buy interior from wether someone pulled it from their car or 'new', or will I just have to luck up at pull yards? And what are some budget friendly racing seats? I'm a fan of the Recaro Expert S style. So if anyone knows let me know. If not.... Might be a while. Those bitches are $800 a PEICE

OK, so new minor problem. At least I hope. So for some reason my turn signals go out when I active my hazard switch. But now they arent working at all. Now, this happened while I was driving home last night from work. So in the morning it may have 'fixed its self' but the hazard switch has been happening since I bought it. So some direction on one or both would be great. Thanks in advance.

Kirkeys are fairly cheap and are good quality.
The steering is speed variable. So the faster you go, the less assist you get from the hydraulics. You wouldn't want full assist at 70mph or you'd go flying off the road with the slightest twitch of the wheel. Above a certain speed there is no assist at all.

Yeah, the hazards do that. Not sure why. Let us know if you figure it out.

Well after 3 weeks of driving around and using my phony turn signals, nearly getting frost bite from using hand signals in Colorado.... They magically started working. So pretty sure I need to actually pull it out and clean off the connections.

But I have got my new flywheel and stage 2 clutch. What other stuff would you guys suggest for me to replace on this 31 year old car while I'm down there. I was thinking I should do bushings as well since I have to disassemble the wheel from what I understand. Any other parts I should snag before tearing down let me know. Also any helpful tools to have or tips to use when doing a clutch. BTW this will be my first clutch job ever.

I'd replace the rear main seal on the block and the input shaft seal on the trans. Axle seals aren't a bad idea either. Give everything a careful visual inspection too, like clutch fork, spring, etc. Make sure they aren't too worn, weak, or getting ready to fail. You are replacing the throwout bearing too, right?

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Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

I'd replace the rear main seal on the block and the input shaft seal on the trans. Axle seals aren't a bad idea either. Give everything a careful visual inspection too, like clutch fork, spring, etc. Make sure they aren't too worn, weak, or getting ready to fail. You are replacing the throwout bearing too, right?

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Yes flywheel, clutch plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing. Those are the parts I have now. I was going to do my linkage bushings, control arm bushings. Or should I just do a whole new front end kit. Or am I getting into too much? This is a DD so I'm not trying to have it down for more than a few days if possible. They will be dedicated hours too.

Me personally, I'm not for replacing parts that don't need replacing, unless you have a really good reason (like you'd have to remove the trans to get to them). You should always inspect everything you can when you have things apart. Check your bushings and boots thoroughly for cracks, ooze, slop, etc. If they don't show any signs of trouble, don't replace them. I'd be surprised if a front end "kit" exists, so there's that to consider too.

The kit was put together by rockauto. I've tried doing some looking around instead of limiting myself to RA... But I haven't found anything in my price range. Everything else I've found is custom fab. Like I'll eventually put some coilovers on it togive it a smoother ride. Not into the lowering of cars. And no camber is needed cause I'm not drifting a FWD lol. This is just my first time and I want to be thorough. I love taking care of things and making them work better than when I got them. It's satisfying. But still waiting on the spring to roll in a little. Better since we don't have a garage. The wind is picking up like crazy sadly. So hopefully the air will get warm. Thank you for the help you guys. Will keep you posted. And I will try my best to include pictures once I get rolling.