No start/possible short!

I been running the car alot this last 30 days as when the weather is nice.

I went to start it yesterday and just got a click..no crank no start.

battery test out 12.14 volts which I thought was strange because I just ran the car 4 days ago but I had time to charge it up for a few hours. I didnt get and amp draw over .2 amps at this time. its a fairly new Optima Yellow top.

After the charge I tried to start it with some odd starter clank noises. Recheck of the battery voltage at 13.1 so this time I left the meter on it while I cranked and not only did my voltage fall to 0 it stayed there about 30 secs after the key was off. I retested with the voltage check on the main lug of the starter with the same thing. Connections look tight there also. Grounds all good.

This is the part that scared me. I tried it a third time and this time the voltage dropped to less than one volt and when I got out of the car I heard a few cracks of a short some place low driverside under the hood. I was able to pull the positive terminal off and oddly it was not hot so I think the amp draw was minimal.

top of the underhood fuse box looked good and I didnt see anything blow.

Slept on it and I guess Ill check the alternator connections.

Irritating part is its outside and I would like it in my garage to work on.

This kind of just sounds like a bad starter, like it is grounding out somewhere, but impedance is high. If you have got one of those remote starter switches you can try jumping the starter with the car off, or if you don't care to make sparks, jump it with something else. If it does the same thing I'd suspect the starter, or your Optima is a lemon, many are nowadays. If not just start yanking fuses I guess.

I looked at the white wire on the alt and its tight but got some corrosion I need to clean up. I forgot theres a coolant hose that runs straight down on it what a PIA.

I think I will replace the starter its had a funny kick back for years hot that I never liked.

Oh yeah, you could also try disconnecting the alternator

I think Im going to when I try and start it again.

When the voltage pulled down there was no dash lights and no headlights I tried them.

I did try tapping on the starter with a wood handle but it didnt seem to help.

I might get lucky and I can roll start it if I can get the fuel pump to prime up good. Get it in the dark garage where I can see better.

I looked around under the dash I didnt see anything smoked.

Have you tested the battery? I'd start there.

What about the main relay?

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Originally Posted by profquad

What about the main relay?

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naw I think its ok. I have it out loose and I can hear it click and the fuel pump come on. This new pump I put in is pretty loud.

Its on the start(crank) park of the circuit. Doesnt mean the ignition switch isnt bad,bad contacts.

The battery voltage seems good but I might load test the battery when I have the starter out just to check it. The battery less than a year old and I dont have trouble with the Optima's until after the 7 year mark but that last one it was on this car and I never was really sure it was the battery because it worked in another vehicle after I pulled it out of the Honda. I ran an equalize charge on it with a charger we have at work even if your not supposed to on gel batteries and it seemed fine after that for a 9 year old battery.

Im thinking the starter solenoid is just stuck/shorted since my second voltage test was off the starter post and it pulled the voltage to zero there. Fun part its a life time warranty from Orilleys. This should be fun!

This sounds exactly like my starter problem. My original starter went out after 31 years and picked up a reman from AutoZone, it worked but it had an extra grind as if it was engaging the flywheel then not for a second in the middle of the cranking. Also it would simply not crank randomly but would draw a bunch of power. I replaced it with another starter that did the same thing, then on the 3rd replacement starter it has worked flawlessly.

Well well well..Snooze your slipping! I forgot about the old grounds!

I think that cheap battery terminal on the negative was it. I cleaned it with sand paper and got it started and in the garage. it had some kinda black stuff all on the inside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LiYT5t-l2yQ

When I first got this accord, it would have random complete power failure when turning the key to start. Turn key back to accessory, and power came back. Cleaned terminal, even bought a new terminal for it, still did it. Wasn't constant, random as hell. Took a length of decent gauge wire and stuck it to the terminal and ran it to a random bolt on the body, never had a problem since. Is it the correct way to fix it? probably not, but hell it works lol

Dude your battery has side terminals, why not use them? Battery terminals suck, solder or crimp connectors are way better, but that cast terminal can't hold a candle to a crimped on nickle plated copper eye terminal. Also your main ground cable looked a bit small... though can't say I remember what size the stock ones are.

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Originally Posted by ShiRen

Dude your battery has side terminals, why not use them? Battery terminals suck, solder or crimp connectors are way better, but that cast terminal can't hold a candle to a crimped on nickle plated copper eye terminal. Also your main ground cable looked a bit small... though can't say I remember what size the stock ones are.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XzH740hiOgI&t=52s

I dont use side terminals for starting.

The wires are all stock I just had changed the clamps over a few months ago. I think that negative is some kinda junk steel with some weird coating on it.

Glad you got it fixed.

What's the issue with side terminals?

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Originally Posted by ShiRen

What's the issue with side terminals?

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name a car that does still use them?

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Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz

Glad you got it fixed.

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I did and I went to Cars and Coffee but the 6 month old fuel pump went out the next day!

I don't know of any stock car still using one, I don't know why. Probably due to the bean counters, Chevy couldn't get their way whenever they tried switching, their batteries were always unique and more expensive. Every lithium battery is a side post though. It is just a more positive connection and much less likely to corrode

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ShiRen

I don't know of any stock car still using one, I don't know why. Probably due to the bean counters, Chevy couldn't get their way whenever they tried switching, their batteries were always unique and more expensive. Every lithium battery is a side post though. It is just a more positive connection and much less likely to corrode

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I would have answered Tesla of course!

Hah... I didn't think of that, but good example. Actually, I think their 12v battery does use a regular top post lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5g-Oz4eX7Sk&t=8s

1:50 mark I give the battery and starter a down home load test. I checked the terminals they did (EDIT) NOT even get hot. I have got to learn to spell!

F

Wow, they're chemtrailing the hell out of you, aren't they?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uycjOPcnznw