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Does anyone have any info about Kemparts professional automotive parts brand. I was looking for carb rebuild kit and I noticed that walker brand had the same part # as a Kempart brand. Are they the same company or connected in any way. If you know any info about them I would like to know, like how good parts are, etc. I'm really on a tight budget.
Thanks
The walker kit I got was not for our carb. I think the correct kit is the standard motor products 1594
Looks like you might be able to get it from summit for $56
Thanks ShiRen
Can you tell me how to get the pin out of the float? What to use to remove it etc?
iirc it only comes out one way. Its a tough one, just punch it out though.
What parts are bad on your carb? The needle and seat orings Im sure of, but anything else? If you don't need one of the diaphragms, I think the accel pump is the only one that sees gas, you can make a top gasket with gasket paper. Not a fun shape, but its cheap.
Do I use the punch on the outside hitting it in toward the middle of the carb? This info I need or I can't go any farther don't want to damage anything. I'm having enough problems already.
I'm going to buy a spring loaded punch at harbor freight tomorrow. I tried punching it out with regular punch and hammer but it wouldn't budge. Not sure if I was hitting it the right direction tho. I saw a videi on youtube he used spring loaded punch which seem to do the trick.
I was planning to remove seat and needle to see if I have the orings already in the assortment of orings that I have. The diaphragms I don't think I need but thanks for that info and the gasket info I'll keep that in mind too. Any extra info is always helpful thanks.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...er-Gasket-Info
There is alot of info here.
Guys used a drill bit to punch his out. Same size dowl pin works in a pinch since it nice and hard.
A carb kit might be nice to have, but it's $50 and you will only need a couple things out of it. It is pretty hard to find the needle and seat o rings otherwise though.
I have no idea which is the right way to punch out the dowel
Oldblueaccord
I did read that post. I tried the drill bit and a dowel but no luck. He says to hit it on the outside toward the inside which I did. ShiRen says it comes out one way. So I'm assuming the hole is tapered. What I did notice the outside of the pin sticks out farther past the ear than the hole and the inside is flush with the ear. I was wondering if the there was a reason for this, did they do this intentionally so the pin could be grabbed with some pliers and pulled out? That's why I was wondering if he was correct in what he wrote.
ShiRen
I do plan on buying a kit but I still need to be able to remove the float pin or I can't do anything. I went today to buy my tool at 3 different places. The 1st place gave me the runaround the other 2 didn't have it. I'm going to try another store in another city tomorrow.
its possible but the pin might get marred up.Quote:
Originally Posted by lx 1986
Could try some Ammonia if its steel on Aluminum. It helps break the corrosion. Dont leave it to long it really attacks AL.
Oldblueaccord
I'll keep that in mind but 1st I wanted to try that tool.
Use a heavier hammer.
I bought spring loaded punch at Harbor Freight for 3.99. Got the pin out. The punch only pushes the pin in far enough so you can use a manual punch and hammer to do the rest. The manual punch I used was a 3/32 and a heavy hammer like DrSnooze said. I used a piece of wood to prevent breaking the inside ear. I hit the pin from the outside towards the middle like someone posted awhile ago. It does take some time and patience to tap it out without breaking anything. Can't say I didn't get a little angry. The spring loaded punch is helpful because it pushes the pin in far enough so you can stick the manual punch part of the way in the ear.
The people that were using the spring loaded punch on youtube were using it on a small carb not a car carb. To bad they don't make a punch that would fit car carbs it would be really useful. It pushed the pin fairly easy.
I was looking at the seat and noticed it has a small screen that covers the inlet holes. I remember I read here or on another forum about it. I guess it doesn't matter if it's on there it looks to be another way of filtering before the gas goes in the carb. If it was really important I assume they would include it in a rebuild kit. Besides I don't think it could be removed without breaking it. It appears to be made of hard plastic with extra fine screen.
Yeah don't break that
I almost did, I thought it was a spider web at first. Makes no sense to have the screen on it if they don't have it included in a kit. I guess extra protection. Ordered the kit will be here Sat. Thanks to all of you for helping me. I hope this takes care of 1 of my problems.
Nobody said it was a very good carburetor lol, I sure have a few things to say about it... it is the 3rd fuel filter in the system though.
Is there supposed to be a plastic sleeve inside of where the seat screws into the top hat. When I was cleaning it, before I replaced the seat with a new 1 it looked like it belong there. But my other top hat doesn't have it. Anyone know if it's supposed to be there?
I changed seat & needle but carb is still leaking through venturi.
ShiRen will those orings from McMaster-Carr fit perfectly on the seat?
Like a plastic dowel? I've never seen that.
I am not sure, if the orings don't fit then you can take them down with sandpaper until they do.
It's like a plastic sleeve. You wouldn't notice it unless you spray carb cleaner in there. It gets translucent when it's wet that's why I didn't notice it at 1st & it will move. Picture the small finger of a glove cut about a 1/4 inch off the finger tip & put a hole through the top of the tip. It looks like a hood with a hole in the top. If you were to remove it, it would fit right over the top portion of the seat right below where the thread starts & stops right above the hole where the gas goes through. It covers the small oring on the top. My other carb top doesn't have it in it. When I pulled the seat, orings were shot. but the small oring on the top had some white stuff on it & I didn't know what it was from. It's from being inside that sleeve. I'm still having the same problem with the venturi spraying at idle & stalling when coming to a stop. I can set the site glass to 1/2 way but it will leak down overnight to right below the bottom of the site glass.
I'm not sure if the sleeve is causing the problem or not.
I can't think of why that "sleeve" would be there. The venturi is from the bad orings and the bowl overflowing, but I don't think that the bowl should be draining... Have you inspected the carb for cracks? I have had one crack before.
I don't think the carb is cracked because when it leaks it doesn't lose all the gas but it will drain to right below the site glass and I didn't see any cracks when I cleaned the bowl out and put the new seat and needle in. Am I missing something? Could the carb be cracked, somewhere else other than the bowl and make the gas drain the same way?
Is the sight glass leaking?
I don't see anything leaking.
