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after i removed all vaccum line materials and rerouted with new lines, idle was screwed up and choked and coughed when i turned car off, I adjusted idle screw and fuel mixture screw but am not sure exactly how to adjust because the how-to was not very informative on that part.what can i do? is my car screwed up? also it acts like it is flooding after sitting awhile then started.i need better direction for the vaccum line removal..SOMEBODY>>>>>HELP!:wtf:
did you remove the chocke plate?
if you didn't remove the chocke plate, make sure you keep it open all the time. i used some zipties.
adjusting idle screw should be easy. turn it clockwise to make RPM go higher, and counter clockwise to lower RPM.
when you have your RPM set, turn the mixture screw out. your engine RPM will go up a little. find a spot where RPM will stop going up. that is the point you need to stop.
make sure you have your IDLE switch connected. it is located on the back of the carb. it is holding with one screw and it has one wire comming out of it.
check your vacuum plugs to make sure they are tight.
To make your car run a little better, you can remove air jet controller. plug the lines B and C on the carb. it should boost some low end responce. At least it did on my car.
you can also remove coolant lines that go through intake manifold, but you will need to get thermostat housing from EFI engine. it has temperature sensor build into it.
well that is all i have for you right now.
hit me on AIM kengury79 if you want to talk more about it.
I DIDNT REMOVE THE AUTO CHOKE,I DID BUT I PUT IT BACK ON,ALSO THE WAY IT IS IDLEING NOW. WHEN I ADJUST IDLE SCREW IT RAISES AND LOWERS IDLE,BUT WHEN I UNSCREW AIR/FUEL SCREW IT DOSENT CHANGE IDLE AT ALL ,AND IM NOT SURE WHERE TO LEAVE THAT SCREW AT.WHAT DO YOU MEAN ZIP TIE IT?
does the choke plate stay open, vertical?
to keep it vertical, i used zip ties to hold it open.
YA IT STAYS OPEN,BUT IDLES LIKE CRAP UP DOWN UP DOWN , AND WHEN I TURN IT OFF IT CHOKES
ALSO I DIDNT CONVERT THE SECONDARY ,WOULD THT HELP,I WOULD LIKE TO LEAVE IT AUTOMATIC THOUGH.
did you connect secondary right?
plug the B and C line on the carb.
the line under the fuel line should be pluged.
did you connected two lines on the back of the carb, U shape connection?
make sure your venturies are not loose.
why did you put the choke back on?
did you put it right?
I DIDNT CONVERT THE SECONDARY TO MANUAL.THE 3 TOP PORTS ON BACK OF CARB ARE PLUGGED INTO A VACCUM LINE.LINE UNDER FUEL LINE IS PLUGGED, ON RIGHT SIDE,LOOKING AT IT FROM FRONT.THE U IS CONNECTED TO THE TWO PORTS ON BACK AT BOTTOM.VENTRIES ARE NOT LOOSE ,CHECKED 'EM ,OK.THE AUTOMATIC CHOKE IS ON BECUZ I THOUGHT IT WOULD STILL B USED.THE CHOKE SPRING WAS CONNTED TO THE NOTCH AND SCREWED BACK ON WHERE INPRINT OF SCREWS WERE.
3 ports on the top the carb should have this connections, closest port to the fuel line should be connected to the intake manifold/ distributor vacuum. the other two, you can plug them.
it looks like you are sucking air into intake manifold. check and see if there is any vacuum leak. make sure you didn't forget to plug big ports on the each side of the carb, and make sure the port on the back of the intake manifold is sealed. it should have only one line comming out of it.
its all plugged i went and bought plugs to put onto the carb ports,the one side of intake is plugged.so the three ports on TOP back side of carb should be plugged except for the far right one?
there are only 3 ports on the top. 2 (left and middle one) should be pluged. the right one should be connected to the same line that connects intake manifold and distributor.
the line that used to be connected to the charcoal canister should be pluged, ( the port is located on the back of the carb in the middle section of it).
disconnect the secondary and plug the port on the carb. did it help?
did you keep the idle valve? it is on the back of the carb.
how long it is been since you cleaned the carb?
try cleaning carb with some carb cleaner when it is running. than spray it when it is not running, let it sit and spray when it is running again.
here is the trick my dad told me how to clean the carb. while reving the engine, spray some carb cleaner, place your hand over the top of the carb. you will fell that carb is trying to suck your hand. try not any air let inside. don't let engine die at the same time. you should see black smoke comming out of your exhaust. it is normal. after 2-3 times you should see white smoke. that is normal too. it will go away on it is own.
i have been clenaing my carb like that all the time, and it always works and will work.
the middle port on back side of carb between the 3 ports on top and the u plugged ports on bottom is plugged off.i just went by the diagram that was drawn up on the site.i guess it was wrong
the distributer should only have one line to it?
also how should i leave the fuel/air mixture screw adjusted?
please edit your previous post instead of making numerous sort posts.
#2 VACUUM PORT on the DISTRIBUTOR connects to MANIFOLD VACUUM.
The VACUUM PORT closest to the FUEL NIPPLE SIDE of the TOP HAT is for the POWER VALVE and must be connected to MANIFOLD VACUUM
Connecting any other vacuum port on the top hat to manifold vacuum will cause gas to get sucked into the vacuum lines.
(This is excluding the FLOAT BOWL VENT DIAPHRAGM which should be removed and the CHOKE which must be rerouted or removed at your disgression.)
To keep the Choke operational click here:
http://www.geocities.com/accord89lx/keihinvacuum.html
On the MAIN CARB BODY there are 4 VACUUM PORTS
1) FLOAT BOWL SIDE is a VENTURI VACUUM PORT (PLUG)
2 & 3) FRONT SIDE are 2 VACCUM PORTS
- Passenger side smaller PORT is VENTURI VACUUM connect directly to the SECONDARY DIAPHRAGM if you have not converted to MECHANICAL SECONDARY.
- Middle larger PORT is VENTURI EXIT or CARB VACUUM (PLUG)
4) Rear PORT is for FUEL VAPOR looks like a FUEL NIPPLE (PLUG)
Moving on to the CARB BASE 2 identical VACUUM PORTS possibly VENTURI EXIT VACUUM or CARB VACUUM (PLUG BOTH)
thanks mike
88cordlx>>> ..also it acts like it is flooding after sitting awhile then started.
that's when carb bowl venting line is plugged. How on earth ppl who plugged the vent hole won't complain about it ?
I don't want to have the same issues after vacuum line removal like this guy is having, so I posted in this thread.
I'm thinking of doing a vacuum line removal for this re-built carb I have. Both my old carb. the new one is idling too high. I'm doing a smoke test Monday to see if there is a vacuum leak I missed. Also, I'm checking the timing.
Could one of them thermovalves or thermowax valves be bad or am I overlooking something? It revs up to about 3-4 k & won't kick down. I looked at the fast idle unloader, but that isn't it.
Anyone got some advice, feel free to put it in.
mine ran alright after doing my removal. but about a week later it started messing up. right away i found my problem. it was one of the vacuum caps. it was torn with a little hole in it. i just put a better cap on. basicly, my car would run funny if i had any vacuum leaks, kinds sound like what your experienceing. just to make sure i went over and over the diagram and looking at my lines i ran. i did that numerous times before i was fully satisfied, i did get them right the first time pretty much though. only thing mine is doing right now is bogging some on the low end below 3000 rpm. i found that if i take the air cleaner off, the problem goes away, i think maybe its not getting enough air. maybe something to do with running rich. i need to find a screw driver that i can fit into the a/f screw though so i can check that out. i'm going to try removing my air jet controller like some people have suggested and see if i get better response below 3000 rpm.
Appeciate it Hondaboy. I've been having hell of a time with it. I was reading in your other thread some people having issues decifering the process of vacuum line removal. I don't think my problem is any vacuum leak. It is wierd. Defenitely got me stumped. Doing some more tests on it Monday.
