Aight i got my car lowered i got adjustable springs and i just wanted to ask you guys before anyone else. Is it possible now that the car is lowered to make the ride less bumpy?
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Aight i got my car lowered i got adjustable springs and i just wanted to ask you guys before anyone else. Is it possible now that the car is lowered to make the ride less bumpy?
good struts...very good struts
probably revalved konis or bilsteins
What springs are you running?
yeah u can make it less bumpy, but it will be harder. not necessiarily harsh, but it will take awhile to get used to it. when i drive in other cars it feels like i am floating now. :) since i am used to feeling every bump. :)
yep getting yourself some konis is the best bet ($500) and if that doesnt cut it, or they blow, just get them revalved and shortened, and you should be all set. :)
Koni's are the way to go if you have GC's. if you have dropzone coilovers, you'll need to revalve the Koni's or bilsteins.
What springs and struts did you use?
I just got some neuspeed springs and am going to buy koni (which they say are the best to handle stiffer springs and you wont have all that bounce) (reds/specials) so I wanted to know if its hard to change the struts yourself if you never have messed with this kind of thing or better off having someone do it (can brakes plus/midas/big O install them or will they be like huh/and f$#% them up)
Just change em yourself...Quote:
Originally posted by NeubJ
What springs and struts did you use?
I just got some neuspeed springs and am going to buy koni (which they say are the best to handle stiffer springs and you wont have all that bounce) (reds/specials) so I wanted to know if its hard to change the struts yourself if you never have messed with this kind of thing or better off having someone do it (can brakes plus/midas/big O install them or will they be like huh/and f$#% them up)
before you raise the car, undo the strut bolt. then loosen the bolts for wheel and raise the car. take the wheel off and undo the bolt that holds the strut holder in place to the Knuckle. make sure you undo the brake lines! take out the whole assembly and undo the strut bolt that holds the strut in the Knuckle. put the new strut in and reverse the order. This time around when you go and lower the car back down make sure you watch the strut rod and guide it back into the hole on the top. Make sure your wheel is back on too. then once the rod pops through on top put the nut back on and tighten it and then tighten the wheel nuts and your good to go!
I see 2 things going on in your case. One you lowered your car without replacing the stock struts. That alone will screw up how the car rides and drives. And yes I know some guys do that and come back and tell a story of how it's rides just great, yeah right who are they kidding. And the second thing is this, you installed coilovers. They use a different type of spring in those, one's that are not progressive. Unlike regular lowering springs, coilovers use linear springs, unlike progressive springs they do not have a softer portion of the spring to help smooth out the ride. You get better responce with linear springs, but you feel things much sooner and they will show off how weak your struts are all to well.Quote:
Originally posted by stizle
Aight i got my car lowered i got adjustable springs and i just wanted to ask you guys before anyone else. Is it possible now that the car is lowered to make the ride less bumpy?
What coilovers did you install?
In anyevent, Koni special's are the minimum strut you should run with coilvers. It might be that you've went with coilovers that are so stiff, that even the Koni's aren't up to the task. If that's the case running the Koni's would certainly improve things, but they won't bring you to where you need to be, revalved Koni's or revalved Bilsteins struts would be the way to go, if your coilovers are stiffer than Ground-control coilovers.
So I dont need the spring compressor tool? -
Is it safe that way to change the strut and spring?
I have heard experiences with a compressed strut/spring knocking some teeth out and worse.
You can do without, remove the fork and release the spring from the strut while the assembly is still on the car. But, if safety is of concern, then go get the spring compressor tool (not all will work on the front springs).Quote:
Originally posted by NeubJ
So I dont need the spring compressor tool? -
Is it safe that way to change the strut and spring?
I have heard experiences with a compressed strut/spring knocking some teeth out and worse.
You won't need it when you put on shorter springs. Just put the whole spring/strut assembly together and use another jack to jack up the lower arm. That will compress the spring and you can tighten the upper strut nut.
That's the method I use...Quote:
Originally posted by anchovies
You can do without, remove the fork and release the spring from the strut while the assembly is still on the car. But, if safety is of concern, then go get the spring compressor tool (not all will work on the front springs).
You won't need it when you put on shorter springs. Just put the whole spring/strut assembly together and use another jack to jack up the lower arm. That will compress the spring and you can tighten the upper strut nut.
How much do these struts cost?
Koni's $425.60
Bilsteins $359.00
Free shipping at www.shox.com
If some 3geezers got it cheaper at shox, get their name and tell the ppl at shox. They will lower their price.
Gotta watch quoting the Bisteins. Bilstein H.D.s, just like Tokico H.P.'s and KYB GR-2's are not valved stiff enough to perform properly with stiffer lowering springs. However the Bilsteins can be revalved, by Bilstein for a fee to run with lowering springs, even really stiff springs. Only after the Bilsteins are revalved, are they really any good to run on a lowered car of any sort. Revalving a set add's $260 to thier price. From personel experience, when they're revalved, they are exceptional.Quote:
Originally posted by anchovies
Koni's $425.60
Bilsteins $359.00
Free shipping at www.shox.com
If some 3geezers got it cheaper at shox, get their name and tell the ppl at shox. They will lower their price.
:lol they do they do... hehe J/K my rear end bounces like mad without someone sitting in the back seat... or something heavy in the trunk.Quote:
Originally posted by Jims 86LXI HB
I see 2 things going on in your case. One you lowered your car without replacing the stock struts. That alone will screw up how the car rides and drives. And yes I know some guys do that and come back and tell a story of how it's rides just great, yeah right who are they kidding.
I haven't replaced my shocks struts since 98 so I'm sure they've taken a beating with my cut stock springs as well as my Max speed coil overs.
One day I intend to ride one more then just the coils :D... but I really don't know what to get... I'm only worried about the rear. I've never had any problems with the front acting up when turning. But I'm sure getting new shocks will get rid of that weird "Left wheel grip - Right wheel bounce, Left wheel bounce right wheel grip" thing that goes on when I slam the gas... it could also be form the stock rim/tires I'm using untill I get new tires for the front set of rims.
You need some shocks bad dude! :eek: and get rid of your cut springs! Just suck it in and get some GC's and some Koni's. I'm not sure how low you like to be but, if your like me, You should up the spring rates and revalve the Bilstiens or koni's. I'm not sure what's cheaper in the overall price. I'd like to find that out.Quote:
Originally posted by A20A1
:lol they do they do... hehe J/K my rear end bounces like mad without someone sitting in the back seat... or something heavy in the trunk.
I haven't replaced my shocks struts since 98 so I'm sure they've taken a beating with my cut stock springs as well as my Max speed coil overs.
One day I intend to ride one more then just the coils :D... but I really don't know what to get... I'm only worried about the rear. I've never had any problems with the front acting up when turning. But I'm sure getting new shocks will get rid of that weird "Left wheel grip - Right wheel bounce, Left wheel bounce right wheel grip" thing that goes on when I slam the gas... it could also be form the stock rim/tires I'm using untill I get new tires for the front set of rims.
oh no I'm running on coil overs... but before I was using cut springs...
