Spring to short for strut...(is this normal???

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06-09-2002, 10:04 PM
89accordlxi

Spring to short for strut...(is this normal???

Ok, here is the dilema. I just installed my new lowering springs and struts this weekend. When removing the old spring from the old strut, I had to use a spring compressor. However, when installing the new shorter springs on the new struts, I didn't have to compress the spring at all. The mounting plate sat at just the right height for me to screw the retaining nut on by hand. Is this normal. The front ones I just had to press alittle by hand to get the nut to screw on. The rears on other hand, I can tighten the nut all the way until it stops and the spring can still move back and forth on the strut. This can't be right. It is like the springs are to short for the strut. I am using tokico struts and springs so I would assume that they would be perfectly matched. Has any one else had this problem or noticed it with their lowering springs? I am sure I put all the parts on correctly and in proper order. What is the problem or is this normal or am I doing something wrong.

Oh yeah one more problem I encountered was a stuck bolt holding the fork onto the lower control arm. It is totally rusted to the bushing in the control arm so I am unable to drop the fork. I had to really push down on the control arm just to get the strut in and out of the fork. I totally tore up the bushing trying to get the bolt out and still no luck. so now I am driving around with a torn up bushing with no way of getting it out to replace it. Any suggestions on how to get the bolt out without damage the fork.

any insight on any of the two topics would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks y'all

Peace out.
06-09-2002, 10:36 PM
Jims 86LXI HB

It is normal to not have to use the spring compressor to install lowering springs into your strut assemblies. I do remember that on my fronts, the springs were barely staying in place. But I can't remember how the rears were. I'd complete the install process and see what happens. I know in the front the weight of the vehicle and the fact that the suspension itself limits extension, prevents the spring from being loose. And in the rear I had to stand in the rear suspension in order to get the bottom bolt holes to line up, it wasn't easy.

I had a problem with the same bushing your talking about. But I was lucky, I was able to hammer it out, without damaging the bushing. Can't you use a short handled sledge hammper and pound the bolt out and replace the bushing? If not, I'd take it to a shop to make it right. Anybody else have any thoughts?
06-10-2002, 06:14 AM
guaynabo89

If you can manage to get the bolt off take the lower control arm off.

Take the arm to a shop and have them press in a new bushing.
06-10-2002, 08:37 AM
89accordlxi

Quote:

Originally posted by guaynabo89
If you can manage to get the bolt off take the lower control arm off.

Take the arm to a shop and have them press in a new bushing.

Yeah, that was what I was planning on doing.

First things first, I need to get that DARN BOLT out. You said "if" and that is the problem.....I hate "ifs"!!! I pounded on the bolt so so hard that the tip and threads are all messed up. so I couldn't even put the nut back on. so I am driving around with a torn up bushing and no nut on the bolt. Just asking for trouble aren't I. Anyway, I will probably have to end up spreading the fork apart some how so I can cut the bolt out between the fork arms and control arm trying carefully not to damage the inner surface of the fork. I'll give it a try next weekend and see what happens.

I'm out
06-10-2002, 09:55 AM
guaynabo89

Try taking off the screw that holds the strut to the fork. The lower ball joint connecting the control arm to the spindle. The bolt holding on the sway bar. Also take the bolt off that the control arms pivot off.

Then you can take out the lower control with the fork still attached. Take the whole thing to a shop an let them put heat to it and pound it out. They can also put in a new bushing while they're are at it.

I figure it will cost about 50 for everything.
06-10-2002, 05:53 PM
POS carb

The short spring is normal.

DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT THAT BOLT SECURED. IF THE CRASH DOESN'T KILL YOU I WILL FOR DOING SOMETHING LIKE THAT!
06-12-2002, 06:30 AM
89accordlxi

Quote:

Originally posted by POS carb

DO NOT DRIVE WITHOUT THAT BOLT SECURED. IF THE CRASH DOESN'T KILL YOU I WILL FOR DOING SOMETHING LIKE THAT!

I KNOW, I KNOW..... I spent 2 DAYS!!!:mad: pounding and prying on the darn thing and it didn't budge even a milimeter. So I concluded that it wasn't going any where. Plus I messed up the tip of the bolt so bad and the treads that I couldn't put the nut back on even if I wanted to. I thank you for your concern, but I, myself, would kill me if the crash didn't if I didn't think it was safe to drive it in the condition it is in. But I'm 99.9% sure that it isn't going anywhere.

I'm out..
06-12-2002, 10:27 PM
A20A1

buy a rethreader jig... I'm sure you could find one.