I got issues....

OK, so my coupe is officially pissing me off.

I hope someone can help with some ideas as to what's wrong with my multitude of problems.

To start, it's an '89 DX Auto.

Problems:

1. Gas Guage is not correct. I mean it looks like it's working, but when I run the bastard to dead empty (at least that's what it looks like on the guage) my 'tard light never comes on. Now, I thought maybe the needle's just off. So I topped it off at the gas station, and the guage read full. Now what's even more odd is that I've tried to run it to dead empty, and every time I think I've been riding around on fumes for a while, the friggin thing will decide to jump to 1/4 tank and stay that way for a few miles before it falls again. Now also, when I do fill it, it takses a good 5 min. for the damn needle to work it's way to the top of the guage. Please help!

2. Idle is whacked out. The when I start it up in the morning, the idle flies up to ~2500 RPM and does not come down. With all my other 3G's (don't ask) I could start it up, walk away, and after about 4-6 min. the idle will fall to ~1K. No, this one does not drop until I get in the car and tap the gas. But it'll only drop when I do this, if the car's been running for 5 min. or more.

3. More idle crap. When it's in gear (remember it's an auto), it doesn't like to idle worth a shit. She spits and sputters and can't decide between 500 and 750 rpm. But as soon as I put it in Neutral or Park, she's back to 1K and happy.

4. My power steering pressure hose just blew up on me last week while driving to work, pissed all over the exhaust, and made a serious smoke show. I had to drive it home about 15 mi. without power steering (or p.s. fluid for that matter). I replaced the line and filled it all back up with Honda P.S. fluid. Just wonder if I may have screwed something else up while driving with a dry pump.

5. The ATF rad. return line blew up on me a few weeks back as well. Both cases (p.s. and atf), the metal line split and pissed the fluid all over and made a mess everywhere. Anyway, I just cut all the metal hose out and replaced that entire line with one length of regular 3/8 transmission hose. Seems to be working fine now since about a 6 weeks ago. Just wondering if someone has an objection to that solution that I should be aware of.

I think that's it for now.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

1. I dunno. Bad float?

2. After 5 minutes the idle should drop to under 1000rpm. If it does that by itself without kicking gas then you're fine. If it does that when you touch the gas pedal then your high idle unloader is bad. Choke heater might be bad if it doesn't do THAT.

3. Check ground wires, ignition system, battery connections. Also check vacuum... you could have a leak (joy to the world)

4. I dunno

5. I dunno

the PS pump "should" be fine worst case a pump but I doubt that, as far as the tranny lines go you should be fine, most tranny coolers use a simple rubber line and have you cut the metal lines to re-route to the cooler and back, so I'd say not a problem there.

your sending unit may be bad...dont run your car on fumes...all this does is suck up trash from the botom of the tank and push it into the carb....remove your vaccum lines if you already havent,screw that emissions crap.....your idle is ok,mine does that and I dont have any probs with it...its just tryin to get some warm air....there is a small black knob on the back of the carb...have someone put it in gear and turn it till idle goes up to 1000rpm on the tach....if the car seems to be turning fine without a grinding noise or a supercharger kinda whine you are fine....and I think you need to get a OEM line...its under alot of pressure...the 3/8 line will work in the meantime but it will prob give out eventually...hope this helps you out mark:D

thanks everyone for your replys. If anyone else has any input, as Perot said (shit am I giving out my age now) "I'm all ear".

Thanks again guys.

haaaaaaa haaaaaaa your age, damn I'm 10 years older. I remember ole' H Ross Perot and his failed presidential campaign

1. = bad sender, bad wires, or bad ground
2. = fast idle unloader like Ghetto said - maybe causing a vacuum leak or caused by a vacuum leak
3. = vacuum leak - see #2 - maybe one of those Automatic specific vacuum valves listed in the factory shop manual (you have one, right?)
4. = PS is fine
5. = rubber lines = fine - Dad and I did it on a 67 Chevelle 20+ years and 200K miles ago to repair split metal lines. Come to think of it, that's a long time and it's a bitch when they blow - I better change those again. now I'm afraid to drive it thanks.