today I tried to pass a car so I gunned it, the car jerked like it starved for fuel, then all of a sudden the "idle" was 4.5K and the brakes became really hard and they hardly stop the car...
Does anyone have a clue as to what can do this? I'm guessing my brake booster exploded or something! :help: :banghead: :pc:
Check your vaccuum line to the booster...it may have split or come off. (if so, yer lucky !!!)
i am going to say something is wrong with a vacuum line to the brake booster.
about the idle, i don't know, but it may be related to the brakes somehow.
i checked the line and it was fine, I think the booster is leaking fluid into the motor or something because the level is slowly going down, I filled it 2 weeks ago and it's half way down again
well here is how you can check.
diconnect the vacuum line from the intake manifold. plug the intake manifold so you don't loose any vacuum. you won't have power brakes but if you see the brake fluid you hit the jack pot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by POS carb
Brake fluid in the booster means a bad master cylinder AND a totalled booster. There should be *NO* brake fluid in the booster.
Start your engine and listen near your booster. If you hear a loud hissing sound, that means the seal between the M/C and the booster is shot, and the booster will not work without this (can't hold the vacuum).
You may have a damaged seal in one of your calipers or wheel cylinders, or a busted master cylinder if the fluid keeps dropping.
My suggestion is to replace your booster right off. Before you reinstall everything, check your calipers and drum wheel cylinders for leakage, busted boots or damaged brake lines. Also check to see if there is any brake fluid leaking around the master cylinder piston. Replace ANYTHING leaking fluid. DON'T BUT JUNKYARD BRAKE PARTS unless you're rebuilding the wheel cylinders or calipers. I spent four hours and a gallon of brake fluid on a seemingly good junkyard master cylinder, only to realize after hours of bleeding with to no avail, that the master cylinder seals are shot. Buy a new booster as well because that master cylinder to booster seal is built into the booster and can't be replaced (Honda will sell you a seal, but you dont really wanna crack open a booster). Boosters run around 80 dollars with a 40 dollar core, master cylinders are 30 dollars with a 25 dollar core. Spend the money here, this is a part of your car you DO NOT want to cut corners on.
Also inspect the check valve on your booster's vacuum line. It should only allow air to flow in one direction.
Hope this helps! :)
i have a small question ! > if one of teh lines at teh wheels are shot the brake should still function ! ( as the porpotioning valve functions ! )
if one of the brake lines has a leak, the brake fluid would be pushed through that untill there are no brake fluid left.
it will make the pedal soft.
I have a check valve on the hose but not that little orange plastic bit that floats in the line between the check valve and the intake manifold... it slid out of the hose once and I never found it.
Pos carb,
I know you make a lota mods to get the most out of your car. You better check and see how much vacum your pulling. You may need a vacum can to save some for brakeing if your low.
