Stock dyno chart....anyone?

Hello all. I'm a newbie here, this is my first post. I've searched this site and others trying to find a dyno chart for a stock a20a3 and can't come up with anything. I just got a 87lxi this weekend and I'm working on modding it a little. I plan on getting a stock dyno sometime next week and I want to see if there is a power difference between the auto and 5spd and how my basline might compare. If anyone cares I'm going to try to dyno it between upgrades to see if they helped or not. So far I installed an intake wich I will take off at the dyno. I also picked up a a20 head today for $45 wich is getting milled .030 and having my intake ports mached to a spare b16 intake manifold I have laying around. The cam is getting sent to colt cams on Friday. I haven't really thought it out past that.

Welcome, and good luck.

pretty good head start u got there. WEll i doubt the crank hp would be different but the whp would be a lot different due to the Auto tranny.

THought about headers, 1st gen tranny gears, LSD, cat and cat back exhaust, full fuel system pump and injectors and fuel modifyer, Full ignition with plugs and wires and coil, Full suspension shocks and coils.

yeah thats pretty much i can think of :D

Yeah I'm thinking with a 15% loss you would be looking at 102whp, but maybe the auto tranny will have as much as 20% that would be 96whp. Then you factor in the car is 17 years old and I could be looking at 90-95whp. It would still be nice to see a stock dyno but I'm really wondering if anyone has even done it. I would like to get 120whp when it's all done with but if I need another 30whp to get there it's going to be pretty tough.

If your any good with your hands buy a dremel drill with flexible shaft and do a DIY P+P job just a little tidy up nothing serious get rid of cast marks and machining edges in the valve seat area and that will give you big gains if you feel a little braver and have a steady hand the valve throst diameter can be taken out by 1mm and you could radious the bottom of the angle into the seat that will help flow, also working the combustion chamber around the valves to help let them breathe better will help too, i know you'll loose a little compression but you can chop 1mm-1.5mm off the head to make it up and even if it does work out a little less or the same as stock it's gonna breathe way better and that will be a bigger gain than raising CR ratio beside low CR gives better torque and with a heavy 3G thats a good thing!!
With the B16 manifold get it flowed and polished inside and if you can get the TB enlarged to 60mm if possible, remove one side of the spindle and grind the screw ends flush, remove eccess material from mouth of TB and finish it off with a knife edge that way there will be no restriction from when the intake pipe joins TB all of that will really help with the camshaft you choose and any other mods you do in the future.

Thanks for the advice. I am going to have to do a little p+p to the head. The b16 intake manifold had slightly larger runners than the a20 manifold so I have to port out the head about 1-2mm on the intake side. I'm going to do some minor grinding around the valve seats also but mostly just smoothing things out as much as I can without removing too much material. I just picked up my head from the machine shop so it should come together soon. I can't find a b16 tb (60mm) laying around so for now I'm going to use a ls (58mm) tb. I'm thinking I should have a baseline next week and then the following week dyno it with the milled head/b16 manifold combo. Colt cams is a 3 week turnaround so I will try to get a 3rd dyno when I install it. A problem I'm running into is finding a adj. cam gear. It seems no one makes one. Rjudgey have you tried all this on your own head? If so how did it turn out?