Timing Belt installation question

In the manual it states that:

Install the timing belt with slight tension between the sprockets on the forward facing side. With the belt tensioner bolt loose, slowly rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise for a distance of three teeth. This puts tension on the belt.

By rotating the belt three teeth, would'nt this effect the timing if the belt was slid on with the crankshaft at TDC and camshaft properly aligned before rotating?

I assume that to get the tension on the belt that the camshaft would remain stationary and moving the crankshaft three teeth would move it out of time by three teeth.

Here's what I did - and it worked:

1 - The cam belt tensioner has two bolts - install the belt with the crankshaft pulley and cam pulley aligned properly and with the tensioner installed and the bottom bolt of the tensioner not tightened all the way - but almost.

2 - Turn the crankshaft bolt two full turns (counter clockwise, of course) and then tighten the bottom tensioner bolt.

The Haynes manual I have suggested turning the crankshaft 3/4 of a turn & then tightening the bottom tensioner bolt. Someone here at 3Geez said to rotate it 2 full turns & then tighten it.

Soon, someone will post the real answer, or verify my response. Hope this helps.

Happy Honda-ing,

IPF

After you take the belt of....

Do you turn the crank clockwise three teeth then slip the belt on and then turn the crank counter clockwise three teeth.

Or you just put it on with the pulleys aligned and it still remains in the same position when you tension it.

I have no idea, maybe it will be more explanitory when I try doing it.

Remember the cam belt tensioner has a spring & two bolts - a top & a bottom bolt:

#1 - make sure cam sprocket and crank sprocket are lined up properly
#2 - attach tensioner with bottom bolt "loose" - not tightened fully
#3 - slide on belt (I used clamps to hold mine on at the cam sprocket - see photos)
#4 - check to make sure alignment of cam sprocket and crank sprocket are still lined up then remove clamps, if used (use a mirror if you have to - see photos)
#5 - turn the crank counter clockwise (this adds the proper tension to the belt)
#6 - tighten the bottom tensioner bolt

http://bwinsor.home.mindspring.com/h...am_belt_01.jpg
http://bwinsor.home.mindspring.com/h...am_belt_02.jpg
http://bwinsor.home.mindspring.com/h...am_belt_03.jpg

Thanks IPF,

The pics help alot!

I could not get the crank bolt off. I took it to the nearest shop to have them loosen it up. The greese monkey siad that you have to heat the bolt up because of the locktite on it.

I tried everything. The thing that worked the best was putting rope into one of the cylinders. However my half inch drive wrench was going to snap if I put anymore pressure on it. I snapped the head off before, trying to get the axel nut off and was right up to that breaking point again. These are craftsman tools so that dam bolt is really on there.

Do they make 19mm sockets with 3/4 drive?

I never put tension on my timing belt by turning the crank... I don't see why you'd need to... the teeth all line up just fine and both the flywheel and cam gear are alligned to TDC... just clamp the belt like it's paid for and then bolt down the tensioner.

After the install and the crank and cam gear were bolted down, I double check the TDC allignment and turned the crank around and nothing moved out of allignment.
Just make sure you double check.

i know this is something different but i heard one of the guy's on this board had took off the cam gear instead of the crank pully, slid the belt on that way which seems easy, . . . . .

How did he get the lower timing belt cover off?
Sawzall???

I used heavy duty metal snips.

no manual or website is going to teach you how to change you tb. btw, make sure you remove your passenger side windshield wiper when adjusting your timing.

On getting the crank bolt off, there a few things that may help.

First off, I'm not sure about the 3rd gen Honda's, but 90 and later models have a place in the damper pulley to put a special tool to hold the crankshaft while loosening the crank bolt. I usually borrow one from a local Honda mechanic and give him 5 dollars. This 3rd gen may not have that design.

If it doesn't, then here are some things I would try.

Spray penetrating fluid around the bolt and let it work for 15 minutes. Get an air wrench that can move a lot of CFM and use a source that has over 100 psi if possible. Get your 19mm socket with at least 1/2" drive and connect it to the air wrench directly. Any extensions or reducers will absorb the impact and lessen your chances of getting the bolt loose. Take the driver's side motor mount out so the engine can drop down far enough to have good access to the bolt. Also, use a 6 point socket so you won't round off the bolt head.

It takes time. Keep trying and you'll get it.

Well, I got the belt out today. It was not to bad. There was no need to remove the alternator bracket and I did not need to unbolt the a/c or power steering. Only had to remove the belts and pivot them back as far as they would go.

I got the new belt on OK but it got to dark out to see the timing marks. Hopefully everything works as it did before tomorrow.

I had 257000 miles on the belt and it really did not look that bad to me.

I took mine to a mechanic who did it for $120...including the water pump

I have the belt now installed and the cars seems to run as it did before. However, I have a few observations:

1] The belt tensioner seems to have a limit to the amount of movement. This is maxed out. Is that normal?

2] Is there anything other way to get more belt tension?

as long and the belt is snug... I never put my belt too tight, it looks like it flaps around at times along the longest exposed side of the belt, but it never comes off or skips.

I forgot how I put tension on the belt prior to the tensioner going in but it was actually very difficult to get the belt to go under the tensioner wheel so I really didn't have to tighten it after it was in