IdLe, iDle, IDLLLLLLLLLeeee? ? ???? ?

Hello for everybody!
In first, thanks for every one for a lot of very usefull info. This site is realy great. I reading posts around 2 years and made many fixes and turnups.
Finaly I losten with with (OHHHHH!) bad idle (hesitation) in first 10-15 minutes from engine is cold, especialy in hot wheather when stoping in tr. light (auto tranny). With electrical load (headlights, defroser) when warmed up hesitats too. After driving 1-2 hours or in cold wheather engine working quetly.
What I did:
(i think everything!!!)
-spark plugs NGK G-power, wires NGK, cap, rotor, coil are new
-idle scrues/mixture adjusted properly, (idling 2200, than 1500, than 750)
-6 month ago-new battery and alternator
-PCV, AIR/fuel filters, vaccum lines OK
-carburator rebuild from two same model (befor was same situation with vibration)

From what I've been reading your engine mounts may be bad.

Mounts? Yes, probably not perfect, but how vibration decreasing in the night when not hot?

There could be more than one thing causing your vibrations. If you replace the mounts you may notice that it goes away completely when it's cooler out and that you only have a little bit of vibrations when it's warm out.

Yes, I think so, but changing mounts it to much $$$, removing engine with exoust disconnection. i am not happy fom such idea.
I prefere find some cheaper way like broken valve, relay...
My car rear boby parts is rusty (winter salt) and I dont like spend to much $$$. Finaly I think sours of vibration something else..

1. Yesterday I had look to engine when indling in parking and heared some sound like leaking air from the left side of carburator/filter assembly (driver side) but not found where it is from exatly. Probably more likely from vacuume pump (vacuume motor like in Haynes) or around 15 cm. Is it normal?
2. Today temperature was high and all the time when I driven home engine workes very surge on traffic light stops (around 35 minutes)-not just vibration!!! Car was parked before on the open lot under sun. I don't see that when wheater is not hot.

Thanks in advance for any ideas.:rolleyes:

Well to get this out of the way...
if the engine RPM's drop when the car starts to shake then it is not the motor mounts.

well first thing first, find the vacuum leak. this is number one cause of all carbed accord problems.
oh the left side (driver side) there is a vacuum tree, where a lot of vacuum lines comes in and out. check that. i had the same problem, i was missing one plug and my car was idling like chit but after i fixed it was bck to smooth ride.
so fix the vacuum problem first.

Hello,
Thanks again. I will check for leaks.
What I has detect more: when engine is warming up and should go from1500 rpm to 750, it going to 600-650 rpm for 5-8 minutes and after going to normaly adjusted 750!!! 650 rpm is cause of most surge idle.:rolleyes:

Ones more.

Today in evening, just few houres ago I changed Igniter. I had it from my last visit to junk yard 8 monthes ago. Adn GUESS! Bad idle (remember iDLe IdLE IIIIDDDLLLEEeeeeee!!!) Gone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Like a miracle! Good and Smooth acceleration, tight brakes and smooooooooooooooth idle!

Guys, know what? Check ingiter first if you have low rpm and idle related problems. For breakfast.
Coil and other distributors -for lunch!

I think Igniter placed to distributer body can be likely overheated and even maded by NEC (big authority in electronics) have time to die, even not immideately. Not piece of wire like spark plugs.
:smokin:

the ignigter is the small thing with all the wires on the side of the distributor is it now??

I think i should change mine.....i have the same fricken problem with mine sometimes...

i also changed everything else except that..and i get starting problems when its hot..

i sure that this will help my problem too....1 week till my big trip across canada..well to winnipeg,, and i dont need any problems

Hello,
Yes, with metal cover, 4 pins and mounted by 2 screws.
Now I will check how much new one and probably replace to new one.
I will check mixture and Idle in all modes before because engine working differently now in worm-up then before -more RPM.

yea my coil fried 2, not fun. it stopped idling period lol
those shits are expensive

few days after replacing igniter was damn good driving with much less hasitation, and last two days hesitation slowly increasing but not to previos level. I think another igniter from scarp yard was good after vacation and exposured in heat start degradating as mine before... I know such effect from mine experients from electonics career.
OK. I want new fresh ingniter... Trying have with return possibility in case if doesnt help realy...
PS...I'v read secret warranties list for Honda Accord 87-88. "Hot wheater drivebility bulletin..."
May be somebody read full story about this disaster?

Can anybody show me a picture and the location of the igniter because im having the same problem. Thank You.

Just look on the distributor. It's more towards the bottom part (if not facing you, depending on your how much timing). It has a silver metal case with 2 screws. You can't miss it.

Thank, you, i remember seeing something that looked like that yesterday. Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally posted by rgbpmp
Thank, you, i remember seeing something that looked like that yesterday. Thanks.

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You're welcome :)