any other oem fuel pumps with more psi?

ive been thinking about fuel pump options for my carbed lx. with the new intake and removed emissions crap its almost like the carb chokes on too much air if i gun it from a stop i want to try giving it more fuel first but im afraid the real culprit is the stock exaust it cant flow out the huge gulp of air it gets on the take off. also the cat was welded on so i cant hollow it for a temp fix. i have to wait for the $ for an all new exaust setup.anyways does anybody know if like a lude fuel pump or some other substitute that will mount to the stock fuel pump housing in the tank.i really dont want to go external but i want one that will flow a descent ammount more then the stock pump prefferabley one i can pull at the salvage if anybody knows it help me out i wanna go to the salvage like tomorrow. :kekeke:

Fuel pump sucks... upgrade
I doubt you can find a carb fuel pump that would work well off a lude
Check an LXI, you can use their pump but you need a regulator and return line
As for domestics fitting and I think they have a mechanical fuel pump right?

I'm sure you can fine a performance pump for under $50 that doesn't pulsate and flows better then stock. Look on the redline weber website or some other carb website for intank carbed fuel pumps.

or get the external holley one.

ok the one i was thinking of though is the dual carbed prelude engine is it the same as accord pump or more flow less flow different mount? i took a dizzy off one a while back and im sure the fuel pump is still there.your always a big help a2oa1

http://www.jameng.com/products/index.phtml?section=15
http://www.hotrodwebers.com/weberconv.htm

A fuel pressure guage would be helpful if you need to be sure you set the regulator right...

They don't provide enough info on the type of pump it is... like if it has a steady flow or not. :(

jegs or summit will have a better selection.

i never had any problems with my stock fuel pump.
your carb probably need some tunning and rebuilding.

should be fine if your just running a single carb, the lude pump is poor as well struggles with any mods, also try fitting a regulator with a gauge before buying then you'll see howmuch output your getting, failing that any aftermarket pump will do i use a Pacet red top competition easy to fit and cheap, not sure where your pumpis though but don't use an LXI pump it's for injection use only not carbs. It would burst your joints and fuel lines if used and you'll end up a molten mess!!

:werd: yeah i was not even considering an lxi pump.sheppard when you say it needs rebiult and tuned it makes me wonder what could be wrong with the carb i rebiult it less then a year ago and it was as clean as it can be i used chemdip for rebuild. and it doesnt show any sighns of gumming ever. can it be clogged jets or what is most likely to cause this lag?and sometimes it acts like its about to die rpms drop to a couple hundred then it jerks back up and i take off pretty good mind you the hesetation only happens when i take my foot off the throttle completly and then accelerate and its especially bad from the take off im believing more and more its the carb.i dont believe however any further tuning should be the problem. i know the air fuel screw is as good as it can get i played with it for a while after the rebuild.the idle is flawless. does this sound like a blocked fuel passage or what? i know the accelerator pump works well venturies are not loose.brand new primary fuel filter under hood to eliminate any restriction from having two filters. fu@#ing carb i wanna rip it out again and rebuild it tomorrow. can anyone tell me witch fuel passages to pay close attention to or anything i should look for in rebiulding the carb a second time. ive gotta solve this its one of those nagging hard to find problems that piss you off for a year then one day you just figure it out and laugh at your own stupiditty. or you never find it and give up sell the car and the next guy finds it in a week.

how is ur ignition timing set? is it still set the way it came off the factory? How about the valve timings too. Get the valve timings set to stock or with EVC (Early valve closing), just reduce the intake degrees from 10deg to which ever appropriate. then get the ignition set to a couple of degrees in advance. U will feel the "choke" feeling, when the ignition is retarded back.

oh by the way, check ur PCV valve too.

so you think i may need to advance timing a little.i just put a new lude distributer on a week ago i put it just like the old one.i may give that a shot should i open spark gaps a little?as far as the valves go ive never screwed with any valve setting.as i understand its pretty simple.ill consider that after i rebuild the carb and advance the timing a little.thanks

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Originally Posted by pixiesfan78

so you think i may need to advance timing a little.i just put a new lude distributer on a week ago i put it just like the old one.i may give that a shot should i open spark gaps a little?as far as the valves go ive never screwed with any valve setting.as i understand its pretty simple.ill consider that after i rebuild the carb and advance the timing a little.thanks

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Run a hotter plug. Cuase its a carb, and NA its not gonna matter much cause ur cylinder temp and pressure is not as great as the comparable stock A20A3 motor. So run hotter plugs or use a little bit wider. I dont know. Getting an aftermarket ignition coil like a 40K Volt or even a 60K volt one should be good to run with a hotter plug.

I dont know about the Carb lude distributor. It might and might not have a better spark adcvance, cause i thought it was for the efi motor. But i maybe wrong.

When u get a tune up, they are supposed to check the valvetrain. Get a feeler gauge (its about 3 or 4 bux) and see if ur within specs of the valve train.