Changing the Jets in an 86 honda accord lx

Hey, I recently moved to Flagstaff, AZ which is at an altitude of 7,000 feet and carbureted accord runs like bloody shit. I was planning on changing the jet in the carb but I don't know what to change it too and exactly where it is inside. I know I have to take the damn thing apart but I just don't want to do that without already knowing what it is I need to look for. I have rebuilt the thing so I do know it rather well but I can remember for the life of me where it is. So if anyone could help me out or knows of some other reason and a solution to the high altitude and cold climate I would appreciate it..


THanks, James

i thought those little air bleeders were what was to change the a/f ratio by sensing the air? i dunno, maybe you will just need to manually adjust the carb with the screws. speaking of rejetting the carb, i've found a place here where i live that will not only rebuild stock carbs, they will modify them for more performance. rejetting is part of what they can do. i am going to see what they can do with mine. i'm sure new fuel lines and stuff would be in the works for more performance. oh, also, does the car run bad only when its cold? mine used to run like shit when the weather would get cold. there was a vaccum line that would get worse with cold weather, it had a hole and would show its malfunctions in cold air. also, my car will run funny if its damp when its first started.

hmm well I believe the adjustment you need to make is at the air jet contorller. it's a 12mm socket. I'm not sure if you tighten it or loosen it.
Also you need to readjust the float level.
since the drop in atmospheric pressure is causing less resistance to fuel.



As for rejetting...
our air correction system is a little big tricky... and isn't as straight forward as say a weber with the air correction jet right over the emulsion tube... and it bleeds directly to the open air...

the keihin has some internal routing that still is a mystery to me as to how it all functions as a system, so simply redriling jets isn't the answer...

I modified the stock carb to go around the stock keihin jetting setup to be more like the weber... only what apperas to be the idle ?air correction? passage has me in a fix.

So your saying I should Lower? the float level or raise it.. And for the air jet controller Im going to look more into that as that sounds like it could be the problem too.. When it comes to vacum tubes what is a good way to check those?

well just make sure the float is in the middle of the sight glass window... I'm pretty sure the float lever has gone up a bit since going into higher altitudes.

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Originally Posted by James

So your saying I should Lower? the float level or raise it.. And for the air jet controller Im going to look more into that as that sounds like it could be the problem too.. When it comes to vacum tubes what is a good way to check those?

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I know, I'm making this a Zombie thread, but a good way to test for vacuum leaks is the spray carb cleaner at individual hoses, gaskets, etc. If the Idle picks up, you have a vacuum leak in that spot.

The bible,(the service manual) says "the air jet controller is an atmospheric pressure sensing device which controls the amount of air flow into the slow and main air jets of the primary carburetor throat. As atmospheric pressure is reduced by increasing altitude, the bellows expands to open the valve in the air jet controller, increasing air flow to the jets to maintain optimum air/fuel ratio."
As to where the controller is located, I have no idea.

ok the air jet controler is the black thing over the passenger side strut(on the side of it) with three hoses marked a-b-c I'm not sure if this would work. I would contact honda custom service,there is a high altitude model of this car made for areas like this and colarado. i can't find my book because it was STOLEN!!, but my suggestion would be to find one these cars,and swap out the entire carb and control system to it. the carbs are jetted different i know that with bigger air jets and such. they also have smaller fuel jets to prevent the rich mixture associated with lower oxygen levels. yes you are going to lose power,but thats what happens with high altitude. the only other option is to go fuel injection or a turbo,the turbo will compensate for the air pressure difference. as far as i know the electrical connections and such are the same for the high altitude model. you would just need to swap out the black box and all hoses and carb all attached together.