Need help too!

Hey Guys,

So, the past few days this recurring issue of over the past 6 months have become more obvious now, hopefully you can help me with it, its really giving me a headache.

Half the time when I start my car, it will start and then flutter at 100-300 rpm then fight back but to a higher rpm of 1500 rpm...then after 5 minutes, finally get to 800 rpm (normal). I think this is in connection to what happened this morning, which may be the same underlying issue. What happened this morning was, the car started fine and I drove off. After about 20 mins of driving the rpm's surged to about 1500 rpm while i was at a light and making a turn and then at that point, idle rpm is high but the ENGINE light also comes on. It never has before.

To go along with the above issue, there are also times (once a day or so) that while I sit at a light - my rpm's would drop and as if the car would die but then all of a sudden surge to say 1500 rpm and then slowly back to normal 800 rpm level. (This issue has also been posted a few months back but doing some work didnt help the issue).

Thanks for reading, I would really like some input before taking it to the garage. I did a search on the forum and I wonder if its the choke thing (?) or if its fuel filter (or other parts for fuel) related. Thanks a lot guys.

have you checked your water level? mine did that because of a cooling issue but check and see what codes your ECU is throwing. that should point you in the right direction. that could be a number of things though. vacumm, fuel, ignition, cooling.

coolant is good, thanks - we made sure that that was full as well. and crap, that list you made looks like trouble for me.

ok i think i can tell you whats goin on
first off your fuel filter prolly needs to be changed. its like $25 us or something. then everytime the car dips down in rpms is when your at a light right. thats most likely caused by the fans kicking on. mine does it all the time. itll also do it if you turn the ac on. nothing to worry about. but change the filter and get back to us

just a follow up to the first reply - the ignition switch is new and cooling should be fine as we have checked it (who can be sure though). regarding the fan, good observation actually, but with this issue of mine, the dipping of the rpm's isnt when the fan comes on because it happens most often when i start the car. it's the surging to higher rpm's occurs when sitting at a light (weird, i know). also, ac is working fine :sad2:

humdinger, your car is completely stock right? and is your ECU throwing codes or not?

definatly change the fuel filter though

it is stock yes, an auto (if that helps). and how do i check if my ecu is throwing codes or not? stupid question, i know, but i am learning.

under the drivers seat
there is a box under there thats your computer
from the back seat
and the driver seat all the way forward
there is a pop out cover, pop it out
then turn the car on and check the number of flashes you see. if there is a space between flashes(usually two seconds or so) then thats a nother number. it will repeat the same flashes until you clear them. but there is no three digit code
why the f**k am i typing this?
read this:
https://www.3geez.com/showthread.php?t=26342

thanks guys, i will get back to you all on this. any other suggestions would be much appreciated as always.

the ECU is under the drivers seat (i believe) and there is a red LED that will flash a certain amount of times. i dont have a list of what is what, but the best thing to do is to buy a Chilton Manual at any part store. they are like 15-25 bucks and tell you step by step what to do on checking the ECU as well as any other "How To" on the general side. i dont have it with me right now or else i would tell you.

hey guys, well - the ecu blinked 6 times and thus its the engine coolant temp sensor or related thats the issue. hopefully its not a big job at the garage :sad2: thats the status thus far. any input?

coolant temp sensor huh.
easy fix and cheap part

when the coolant sensor is changed, is it convenient for me to change my O2 sensors as well or is that out of the way?

is the car still acting up after the sensor change?

no, it's to be done today - but what i meant to ask was: when one is changing out the coolant sensor, is it convenient to just change the o2 sensors as well or is that best left as a separate job by itself?

well the 02s can be pricey sometimes, so "I" would just change the coolant sensor and reset my ECU first. and if i still had a problem id go get one of those universal O2s (they are still like $20-25 here in texas anyway) cuz they are an easy install (cut and splice) and cheaper.

peasonally i dont think its the 02s that are giving you problems but you never know :dunno:

I will do the coolant sensor first :) I suppose I havent had the time to look up paul's manual and thus dont know where the o2's are compared to the coolant sensor. i thought asking here would be easier for me, thanks for the advice. will keep us posted.

thanks man, what number is the coolant sensor?

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13SE00_F03.gif

6 flashes is the ECT (engine coolant temp) or TW (water temp, dont ask why the letters are reversed) sensor. Same sensor 2 different names. The sensor is number 009 in the above diagra. Its the one closest to the cyliner head.

Read
HERE
HERE
Here(pics of the sensor and prices)

for the RIGHT info

If you need anything else shoot me a PM or hit me on AIM if ya can. Its an easy fix and should take but a few minutes, a sensor, few tools, and some new coolant

Thread cleaned up to make it less confusing and more to the point of the original problem

Thread cleaned up a bit :D

update: ect/tw sensor replaced and its not surging or low idling anymore for the time being (continuing to cross my fingers). thanks for all the help guys. be prepared for future amateur questions...lol