Printable View
can someone please read this and help me understand cuz i am lost and no one ther wants to help me, i aks a question and its like i dont even exist, there kinda funny over there. this would be usefull if we could upgrade our system using there method
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=957387&page=1
Well what there doing is trying to over come the suspension moving during launches when drag racing. Were talking with serious HP 7k rpm drops. The honda suspenion tends to wanna actually fold back from the torque during take off,slicks make it worse. It causes really bad wheel hop. There just beefing up the radius rods and making them solid no rubber bushing to deflect and stuff. I think there beter set ups now a days since so many peolpe race FWD platforms there alot of improvments out there even in the last year or so.
I dont know how well that adapts to the street. You would not want those links to bind up and you dont want to limit your suspension travel per say.
I like the idea of adjustable radius rods to adjust in a little more caster.
I guess to add there some dumb asss coments on there as well. Grade 8 bolts are brittle ??? thats funny one guy said all structural stuff needs to be TIG welded only MIG not a good wled another dummy. I remeber the days when I was 22 and so smart. LOL THEN I GREW UP> :uh: Stuff you hear on the internet.
wp
so basically it wouldent be worth tring to do it for my b18a accord
I would just recommend getting some good bushings.
Quote:
Originally Posted by h0ndavtec
Well if your gonna be drag racing with slicks with about 400 hp and up yeah it really be worht it. Drive around town with the boom boom going and your hat on crooked NO.
I got new TRW (stock) bushings for the radius arms on my work bench there hard as a rock. I cant see and upgrade really unless you go solid.
wp
They replied...
"Yep. Yea we know you have it stock. We are trying to make it better for clearance (for turbo downpipes or 4-1 header) or wheel hop reasons."
I wanted to make one to include a front torque bar.
I know that if you have the car on the gound with the parking brake on, and you are tightening the front lug nuts by hand (not impact), you can watch the front wheel actually roll forward under the torque. That is seriously retarded. I would never run non sealed, non lubricated rod ends on the street, so where can we get poly bushings? I know there are a couple places, I just can't remember right now..
p.s. I drive around with the boom boom going and my hat a little crooked.. 10psi liquid intercooled
Quote:
Originally Posted by Accordtheory
The Honda (TRW made)ones I got are very very hard. Harder then any engery suspensions product I have used on other vehicles. I had planned on using them as a template to make my own.
I think also the bushing in LCA, closest, to the motor is prone to wobble. Its big, soft, and not support tighly by the metal around it.
Enjoy your radio mine broke a year ago and I havent got around to finding another tape deck to put in it :rolleyes:
wp
Yea it best to get poly or solid bushings. If you wanned to make a system like that do it I plan on making one sometime soon, but for other reasons.
for the poly bushings..............
frame end link Energy suspension #9.5126 (22mm 94-97 accord)
frame bushings Energry suspension #16.8105 (90-97 accord)
OPM solid link arm
ENS-9-5126 $15.69
ENS-16-8105 $16.39
justin, do you have any pics?
no pics, just the part #'s
