front brake problem

Hi,

On my 1988 Honda Accord LX, the front right (passenger ) side caliper is sticking. That caliper appeared to be "stuck" as the slide pins didn't work. The outer rubber on the brake line was peeling away. I replaced both calipers (rebuilt) and hoses (new) with Honda dealer parts. Bled air. Still, the right caliper sticks.

I test both by turning wheel manually and running the engine with the front end on jackstands, parking brake set. In gear, only the left wheel turns. If I stop the left wheel, the right wheel will start moving. But I'm thinking its the right that's supposed to turn normally.

Could this be a problem with the proportioning valve? Should I just remove it and R/R with one from my parts car or a new one from the dealer? Suggestions needed!

Thanks,
Brian

If your caliper is sticking it will pull to that side while driving, or especially when braking. When it's up on jack stands and you put the brakes on hard, let off the brake and see if the wheel turns, by hand.

since our's is an open differential, only one side spins at a time. if the driver side stops, then the pass side spins and vice versa. Sometimes they both spin, and one side will be spinning the opposite way (its different when the tires are on and are on the ground). like said, step on the brake, and then turn it by hand and see if u hear a grinding noise or if its too hard to turn. then its sticking. If not, dont worry its normal. It could be the master cylinder also, but its better to check the prop valve (usually they dont go bad at all) and see what you can do.

I can turn the brakes by hand but the passenger side is much more difficult than the drivers side. I have to put both hands on the passenger side tire but only one finger on the drivers side....

Perhaps I should check the rears too and see if they are similar--one side hard-- this would then suggest master cylinder?

Thanks,

from my experience a master cylinder won't lock up a caliper, and I don't think yours is locked up. the drive side will be harder to turn, If you still have the front end on stands try putting it in neutral and see if it changes, or put it in drive to get the wheel spinning,(not too fast)then put it in neutral if the caliper is sticking you should be able to hear it, and it will stop quick. Otherwise a test drive will tell you as well, but If you suspect a locked up caliper take it easy, and just going around the block will let you know.

Do you have any kinks in your brake lines? This will cause the brake fluid to have a hard time returning to the master cylinder and cause the caliper to stick. The flexible part of the line should be free of twists and kinks.

no kinks + brand new honda brake hoses in the front.

-brian

you might have a hard time turning the tire on the side where the diff is engaged. In an open diff, it changes........ atleast thats what i have heard.

check the thickness of the discs and see if the side where u suspect is a faulty caliper, that side should have worn out pretty bad, even the pads would let you see it clearly cause the pads wear out faster than the rotors itself. u might have mentioend it in ur post, but im too lazy to go back and read it so please let us know.

A bad master cylinder WILL lock up the brakes. I had the joy of experiencing this on a new (well, rebuilt) master cylinder I put on my car a couple years ago. First time I drove it it locked up all 4 wheels and wouldn't release... that was a huge pain in the ass!! After I replaced it with another I haven't had a problem since.

Also make sure on the brake hoses where they attach to the caliper with the banjo bolt, that there is only ONE copper washer on each side of the fitting (the little loop at the end of the hose). Also like mentioned look for kinks in the metal lines as well

there is a LOT of brake dust on the passenger side relative to the drivers side. i cleaned up the hub cap and will see what its like with the new calipers. its not completely seized, just much harder to turn.

i noticed a plug or seal on the slide pin grease fitting. the drivers side didn't have that so i removed it and pushed the caliper against the carrier until a little grease squirted out. going to reinstall and see what happens.

pass and drivers side look similar except drivers side wheel turns with finger lightly and pass side takes a lot more force.

-brian

like i said brian, it has to do with the diff. if the pads look similar and the rotors have no groves and they are evenly worn out, then ur braking system is in good shape. If the valves in ur master cyl is going bad, and not getting fluid back in as it should, will put pressure on line, and if your front pass is hard to turn, then ur driver side rear should be hard to turn too. If the rears are feeling fine on both tires, then u got nothing to worry about.

Ok U Ppl Never Fail To Amaze Me The Caliper Has A Bolt At The Botom That Holds It And The Caliper Slides On It Get Some High Temp Greas Ad Gras It Same With The Top Pin And No Problem

OK I MADE NO SENCE what i was trying to say the caliper sticks to one side cause the slider pins are dry or the grease cooks and becomes like glue i had this problem once clean the sliders and the inside of the caliper where the pins slide put some grease that can stand high temps on the slider and the inside and slap it together and enjoy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SHURIK

OK I MADE NO SENCE what i was trying to say the caliper sticks to one side cause the slider pins are dry or the grease cooks and becomes like glue i had this problem once clean the sliders and the inside of the caliper where the pins slide put some grease that can stand high temps on the slider and the inside and slap it together and enjoy

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I'm sure most of us have experienced that problem but we also know it causes the calipers to react slowly not stick completely. I have never had a honda caliper stick because the sliders were dry. I have had them stick because I put a twist in my brake hose when I changed my shocks.

Did you happen to notice that he already checked for greese?

Quote:

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i noticed a plug or seal on the slide pin grease fitting. the drivers side didn't have that so i removed it and pushed the caliper against the carrier until a little grease squirted out. going to reinstall and see what happens

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i check the shop manual to see a picture of the brake diagram. i found that whomever put the pads on the car when i got it used ones with a wear sensor that is a bent metal piece (looks like LX-i picture but I have an LX?)... AND but them on the side facing the OUTSIDE. as I look at the manual, i think they are supposed to go on the inside? i flipped the pads around.

i also pushed the piston in deeper so it was almost flush with the caliper body. my thought was maybe the piston was not retracting all the way.

i ran the car with the front end off the ground and now both tires spin. applying the brakes, etc and the pass. side still spins nicely. will monitor to see that it continues to work this way.

actually i looked at the manual again and it says the wear indicator goes UPWARD. so i think i have it "wrong" now. but it may be that the pads on this car are just wrong. with the wear indicator where it was, i could push on the pad and the wear indicator would bend. that didn't make any sense to me. when i flipped the pads side to side, the wear indicator didn't bend if i pushed on the pad. maybe i should get some new pads.

i think this is just getting funnier by post.

Just replace the pads from autozone. there are only one way the inner pads go (there is a protruding tab on the pad that goes on the inside and should be on the bottom) the ouside pads does not matter.

when i bought this car, the pads had the tab on the outside & top and now its good. for my own knowledge, how do you "know" the protruding tab goes on the inside at the bottom? i can't see it referenced in the manual.
i checked the brakes after driving it a few times and it still seems fine.

glad i cought this before spending any money unnecessarily.

i also noticed there are no shims on these pads. does it matter? in previous vehicles i have owned there were no shims so i do not really understand why honda wants them?

Thanks,

MOST STIKING PROBLEMS COME FROME THE GREASE BECOMING LIKE GLUE CAUISE THE TEPS MAKE IT ALL FUCKT I HAD THIS PROBLEM MANY TIMES AND IF THE RUBBERS ON THE SLIDERS ARE FUCKT IT WILL LET DIRT GET IN AND SIEAZ IT UP :rockon: IAM LOADED BY THE WAY SO SORRYU MY SPELING IS FUCKT MY GF RAN OF THIS MORNING I NEED A REALLY GOOD DRINK ITS TRUE THE PPL U LOVE THE MOST HURT U MORE THEN ANYONE

Brian, the protruding tabs go on the bottom because u pull out the inside pads by holding on to them. You can try having them on the top if you want, and in most cases it wont clear the caliper, and usually people pull the pads from the bottom out. and defenitely wont go on the outisde, cause it will then hit the rim. anyway, its good u got it fixed.

The shims are not an issue. SOme pads come with them, some dont. expensive pads like the ceramic pads i have (40 bux from autozone) comes with shims that u stick on to the pad. They keep the vibration down and also help relieve direct stress on the exterior pad material. U always have to grease the clips on the top and bottom of the caliper anyway with some anti rattle (anti-vibration) grease before u put the pads on. I use high temp Full synthetic Mobil 1 grease to grease up my pads, clips, and guide pins (top and bottom) before i put it everything back in. This helps relieve rattling and heat burns onto the shims. Its always better to put some grease or anti rattle paste on the piston (the one on the caliper) rim area where it contacts the pads.

SHURIK: please edit your post when ur head is clear. It just makes u look real dumb, even tho we know ur drunk ;)

I use Lubro Moly anti-seeze on brake parts. It seems to work well, no problems in the past few years on other vehicles. Thanks for your answers.

you put anti-seize on stuff that u bolt in, like a O2 sensor or header bolts, or lug nuts, or spark plugs, and etc so that they dont get stuck in by corrosion. They are not there to lubricate. For the guide pins, u should use grease man. High temp grease that is.

The Liqui-Moly anti-seeze compound I use is a copper-based high temperature paste designed for lubrication and corrosion protection (according to the manufacturer). I've been using it for a few years on the back of pads and caliper sliders without problems. Thanks,

The wear indicator is on the pad that mounts inboard (inside). I have changed enough Honda brake pads to tell you that. The piston will never fully go into the caliper unless you manually do it when changing the pads. Thus, the brakes are self adjusting. Interestingly enough, you can test the brakes one side at a time. Jack up only on front wheel and run the car in drive. I have used on the car resurfacing kits and believe me, as weird as this seems only the wheel off the ground will turn - scared the crap out of me the first time I did it even though I was reassured it was OK.

I switched to ceramic pads about six months ago. They are a lot more expensive ($60), but they put little or not dust on the wheels and it is light colored - not black.

It is always a good idea to pull the caliper pins and clean and regrease them when you do the brakes, but like the other guys here I have not heard of a caliper sticking before.