Codes fixed, Ignition rewired, still rich, sporatic tach.. !

I apologize for the title of this. It just skims on what my problem (or problems) are with my b20a. To recap, I have most of the GUDE headpackage (race cams), so vacuum is hard to get right, I THINK I have an 86 teg type dist. and cam sensor (exhaust cam thing) unit.

I had a PGM-FI light every time the car started since I got it from Josh, and I finally found code 8, we alleviated the problem (wires had rotten/worn out) with the TDC Sensor wires. Reading in Haynes (and other places) that a messed up TDC signal (or none) can very much affect your fuel injection timing (or something along those lines... how much/long your injectors open).

I still don't know if my fuel pressure regulator isn't stuck closed or something, as I've alleviated what I thought was wrong with it (running rich) from the PGM-FI warning's indication. The FPR works just the same hooked up to 0 vacuum (wrong thing plugged up to) and hooked up on the butt of the intake manifold.

On the other side of the equation, my properly-wired MSD 6AL, via my electrical system, sends INSANELY erratic RPM readings to the tach (and inserts the rev limiter sporatically, almost as close together on and off as fast as feeling like dropping a spark plug). The thing is, the HONDA tach also does the same dance (I'll post a video of this... I mean this thing FLIES to 8k, 3k, 5k, many times per second sometimes), and it's hooked up just like it should be.

Sometimes, when I had my quick-release terminal on my - side of my battery, and the tachs were going crazy, I could pop the hood and tighten the terminal and move it a little, and the problem would go away. THIS tells me I have a ground problem. Doesn't it? But now I've removed the quick-release, and put on the normal terminal (very securely... the battery is new too BTW). The problem persists. Not any better at all.

Now that the PGM-FI dillemma is fixed (besides the EGR after a while, but that's a minor thing), we can't decide why it's running rich. If the distributor itself is broken, does it to this? When the car's running fine (completely randomly), every spark sparks, and the car pulls great (would be better if it wasn't ridiculously rich). Hot or cold, it seems to work fine.

Do I have a huge ground problem that's making the injectors go crazy? A broken FPR? Dizzy? Ground problem?

I have a pj0 ECU wired to the b20a fully.... we can't figure it out.
Anyone have a clue? Or know who would?

Here's what's on the list:

#1 suspect for tachs jumping etc... distributor. I can only assume that the MSD is hell on a (20 year old) distributor, and perhaps the dizzy is failing. The procedure will include finding and extracting a new distributor (from an 86-89 integra, as hopefully one can be found... and if not, we'll have to find another dizzy that will work, and be vacuum advance).

#2 suspect for running so rich has to be the fuel pressure regulator. Suspicions surrounding the FPR included from the start, the race cams (and questionable vacuum as a result).. then the fact that the fuel pressure regulator offered the same performance hooked up to a diaphragm (where it shouldn't be hooked up, and sees no vacuum) as when hooked up to the far side of the intake manifold (where it should be)... and at every RPM, it offers way too much fuel. I just read about someone else having put their a20 back together, and winding up with excessive fuel pressure, and it was because their regulator was offering 50lb, and not 40. Mine may be broken similarly. I suspected that the diaphragm mechanism in it is broken, and doesn't open or close with vacuum or pressure. The theory will be solidified once I get my B&M fuel pressure regulator Part# 46059 (blue), which, by the way, is the same for almost any Honda. The 88-2000 civics (all, including del sols, Si's, etc) use the same as the 90-2001 teg's (and other acuras of the era)... I know that my friend's 88-91 civic's FPR looks to be the exact same as mine (as far as I know), and is return line (as, now that I know, all Honda ones have been over the years, for the most part)..

Only $40 from sportcompactonly.com, or I might buy it on eBay if I can find a good deal.

If someone else thinks I have different problems or something else going wrong, please tell me! I'll keep posting about my progress.

So, moving right along, two wires going to the cam sensor unit (the thing on the exhaust cam) were completely rotted off of their clip. So upon re-attaching, the car runs a lot less rich. And better. The coil was replaced, upon not being able to find an 86-87 integra distributor, and so my next option is looking to pk2 ECU swap with b20a5 distributor. We'll see what happens.