Say hello to my Little Friend

Well I am peicing the motor together now and it will only be a matter of time, before I begin to put it in the car. I am thinking of waiting for thanksgiving to roll around so I can take a little Time off to work on the install, but I am not sure about that.

Specs
LS/Vtec
B18a BLock bored .20 over
95 GSR Head milled just a bit to yeald a little more compression

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0007.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0008.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0006.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0010.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0009.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0011.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...SCF0012124.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...r/DSCF0013.jpg

mmmmmmmmmmmmm b18 goodness

nice... looks good man... be sure to keep us updated.

ohhhhuhhuhoo *nuts*
looks good.

looking gooooood, gonna run just N/A? possibly spray?, anyways like always keep us posted

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Originally Posted by b8er

looking gooooood, gonna run just N/A? possibly spray?, anyways like always keep us posted

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nope, the compression is not high enough for NA and I am not a fan of spray. I was thinking about turbo, but I am not sure right now and I just want to get that motor in the car.

Uh, what's all over the top of the cylinders? Looks good other than that.

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Originally Posted by SteveDX89

Uh, what's all over the top of the cylinders?

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That looks like assembly lube. Looks like a good motor rebuild. Machine work isn't cheap..

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

That looks like assembly lube. Looks like a good motor rebuild. Machine work isn't cheap..

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yep it is assembly loob, it better then trying to use oil to lube it up and taking a chance on a dry start. I got all the block work done for a very good price and they matched the pistons with the cylinders like a glove.

that looks good, see if you can get a girdle for the bottom if you can. Helps the bottom end flex a lot at higher revs. i dont know how high u wanna rev that motor, but all in all, looks awsome ;) next time, some block guards :d

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Originally Posted by smufguy

that looks good, see if you can get a girdle for the bottom if you can. Helps the bottom end flex a lot at higher revs. i dont know how high u wanna rev that motor, but all in all, looks awsome ;) next time, some block guards :d

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I looked into that, but I would have to get a GSR/Typr R oil sump and pan so I am waiting on that. I will only be reving to 8K and that should be no problem with the setup I am running. I have contiplated getting an LS and sleeving it to a 2.0L and building the internals then swapping out the blocks later.

So that assembly lube won't cause any problems with the rings seating?

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Originally Posted by SteveDX89

So that assembly lube won't cause any problems with the rings seating?

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I know your not asking me this question.. But if you look at this link on Car Craft, it says use assembly lube on the cylinder bores. Some people use it, some don't. I prefer using it, as long as you deglaze the cylinder walls, that is the most important in rings seating properly. Since he bored them out, deglazing isn't a issue.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/869/index10.html

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

I know your not asking me this question.. But if you look at this link on Car Craft, it says use assembly lube on the cylinder bores. Some people use it, some don't. I prefer using it, as long as you deglaze the cylinder walls, that is the most important in rings seating properly. Since he bored them out, deglazing isn't a issue.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/869/index10.html

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I was asking whoever. I've never replaced rings and I had never heard of using assembly lube on the pistons, just oil.

Looks nice man, can't wait till you get it complete. Lookin good so far!

haha b20c1

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Originally Posted by 88accordhb

haha b20c1

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:deal:

Looking good man!
good plan with the lube; I know a guy who got an old big block corvette cheap b/c the guy before him drystarted the engine..... not something you want to do after all of that machine work

Legend Master, I was wanting to ask you a few questions on your rebuild.

Did you have the machine shop put your pistons in or did you do it yourself?
Did you need the crank & rods turned, or just having the crank polished? Are you using the same rods bolts?
How about the head, you rebuilding it yourself? Looks like from the pick. Just curious how much work you did, cause I'm rebuilding a motor..(not my first)
I had to have the crank & rods turned & balanced.

Hope your using new head bolts.

you lucky ass bastard...i so envy you.....

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

Legend Master, I was wanting to ask you a few questions on your rebuild.

Did you have the machine shop put your pistons in or did you do it yourself?
Did you need the crank & rods turned, or just having the crank polished? Are you using the same rods bolts?
How about the head, you rebuilding it yourself? Looks like from the pick. Just curious how much work you did, cause I'm rebuilding a motor..(not my first)
I had to have the crank & rods turned & balanced.

Hope your using new head bolts.

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I put the Pistons in myself.
I actually dident do anything to the crank besides balancing it with the rest of the internalsa. The rods had to be machined a little and they speced all the bearing perfectly to the rods and crank.
I am running ARP rod and head bolts.
I had the machine shop preasure test the head, reaserfase and mill the head to yeaild a little more compression. (I also had them convert the oil channels to work with the Stock LS dowls instead of converting the block. They also hot tanked it.
Overall I assembled everything except putting the pistons on the rods. The shop I used was great they never gave me any problems and did excellent work on every item in the motor. There prices werent to bad either.

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Originally Posted by od2681

you lucky ass bastard...i so envy you.....

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There would be nothing to stick this motor in, if it wasent for you so thanks man. :rockon:

One last question, did you check the end gap on the rings & space them accordingly? And did you double check you main & rod bearing clearances after assembly? I double check them to make sure it is copisthetic.

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

One last question, did you check the end gap on the rings & space them accordingly? And did you double check you main & rod bearing clearances after assembly? I double check them to make sure it is copisthetic.

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Yep I checked both and the Machine shop that I used had them both perfectly mathced. I used the plastic method for the main and rod bearings and I dropped the rings in without the pistons to to measure the gap. It is definitly a good Idea to check these when building a motor so that you dont end up with some broken shit.

One last thing, put a new oil pump in, new clutch, new valve stem seals, all new gaskets, bronze feeze plugs, new water pump, new timing belt/chain. Change the oil within the first 500 miles, you will have a build up of assembly lube & other debris from the rebuild in the oil.

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Originally Posted by ddude2uc

One last thing, put a new oil pump in, new clutch, new valve stem seals, all new gaskets, bronze feeze plugs, new water pump, new timing belt/chain. Change the oil within the first 500 miles, you will have a build up of assembly lube & other debris from the rebuild in the oil.

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I have a brand new GSR/Type R oil and water pump installed. I have a new clutch, factory valve stem seals, Replaced all gaskets, and timeing belt. I am using the plugs that came with the head, but I have not gotten my plug wires yet, so I might go ahead and get new plugs. I was going to change the oil at 300 nad 700 miles to allow for the motor breakin period to be completely flushed from the system.