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Ok, I bought a set of "Sealed Power" piston rings for the engine. The top ring looks good and has a smooth edge, as does the oil rings.
However, the middle ring is just a sharp edged rough ring. Is this normal? Is that meant to break in the engine? It feels like it would chew the crap out of the cylinder walls... Should I polish it or something? lol
Thanks
Rings don't break in the walls, it's the other way around. The ring doesn't exactly match the wall due to it not remaining in a perfect circle as it fits the diameter of the cylinder. The surface texture of the wall wears the ring to the right shape. If you've chosen the right texture, the ring will be shaped correctly by the time the texture is gone. I haven't used sealed power rings, I only have experience with honda and wiseco, but I would be surprised to find their rings are half assed enough to cause cylinder damage..
right on. thanks for the info... i guess i just need to make sure i hone the walls right.
:dunno: I dunno, but I would probably do that anyways :pQuote:
i guess i just need to make sure i hone the walls right.
Basically deglazing or honing the cylinder walls with a 50 to 60 degree crosshatch pattern is what you need to seat the rings, regarless of the sharp edge on them. It is very critical in setting the proper end gap & spacing the rings accordingly. Last but least, wash the cylinder bores with hot soapy water real good, make sure your get all fine particals of shaving out before installing pistons w/ rings.
spacing the rings? I know how to do end gap, but what's this about?
yeah dingle ball that baby :uh:Quote:
Originally Posted by racerx
wp
i think what ddude2uc means by spacing is what some people refer to as clocking or staggering, etc, basically just make sure the end gaps are on opposite sides of the piston, so the air can't just flow straight down through all the gaps at once.
oh right. geez I almost forgot about that! (prolly would have remember though lol)
but don't the rings spin a little in the motor?
Yes, the piston rings do spin around the piston during motor operation. The spinning varies on compression in the cylinder, operating temperature & R.P.M.sQuote:
Originally Posted by racerx
Opps, double post
now I'm going to have to remember to pay attention to this next time I dissassemble an engine. If the rings are correctly staggered, then I'll conclude they don't move.. I know if they move at all, it sure isn't much. there are no rotational forces on them whatsoever, and the friction of them being compressed against the ring land by cylinder pressure would make it difficult for them to rotate even if there was a force trying to move them..
Yeah, I agree with you Accordtheory. If the rings spin any, it isn't much. I think they move about 1/2" either way. I've never seen a cylinder bore look like this from rings not moving.
http://www.sacskyranch.com/barrel_distort.jpg
Sorce- http://www.sacskyranch.com/piston_ring_rotation.htm
Sealed power rings. Just make sure the ring end gaps are within the right tolerences and also the bore to piston gap, and that you have the rings in the right way up, and also if thats all okay make sure that the vlave guides are all new with little slack and that all new seals are on them, as the engine will have much better suction after it's been built properly and blueprinted it will put added pressure on the valve guides and seals. Used Total seal rings once and the extra vacuum created sucked the oil down the guides like you wouldn't believe great for cylinder and valve lubrication bad if you don't like smoke coming out the back at idle!! Compression was awesome though 240 psi per cylinder!!! Stock is about 180-190 psi!! With good quality rings and a re-bore you should be able to hit at least 200-210psi.
hell yeah! i've got all new seals, and i'm gonna have the head milled about 0.030". should be good. maybe i'll save a little longer and have the head P&P.
