just got my first junked a20a1!!!

I just went and picked up a junked a20a1 ($185)
i got the alternator,ac compressor, steering pump, flywheel, everything.
im in the process of tearing it down right now and ive been thinking of the possibiltiies. aluminum pistons for possible nitrous application? summit sells a stroker kit for honda 2.0 (maybe theyre talking about the cr-v motor? (B20)$1,800) well i also want to have headwork done stiffer valvesprings, porting and rocker arm locks(they bolt to rocker shafts in place of those springs to prevent the rockers from sliding around at high rpm's) ive been thinking about dual sidedrafts but i dont know what id do about an intake. or the 38/38<--i dont see too many people on here w/ that one, why is that? also ive heard someone is trying to get a holley 390 to fit? would it be possible to jet it down enough??

on the back of my motor i have that vapor seperator system, and i just weld the line shut on the pan and do away with the entire pcv system? also can i block coolant flow through the intake altogether? what vac lines would i have to run with an "all out" setup like im looking to do?

can someone type up all of the weber carbureator defentions i have no clue what they stand for at all

i wonder what kind of HP #'s ill get when im done. I am determined to have one of the faster 3gees around town

BTW i live in reynoldsburg Ohio if any of you wanna cruise.
thanks

what about holleys 2bbl 350cfm carb? i would really like that manual choke feature.
How does a cam regrind work? do they just weld more metal to the top of the lobe and mill it down?

mmm you should leave the vapor system intact or at least keep a line from the top to the bottom as this breather keeps pressure from building up in the oil pan and the valve cover, pressure build up is natural but hurts performance so that is why we have pcv valves or the system that the a20 has

nobody makes a stroker kit for the a20. it has a pretty long stroke already (91mm i think)

if you want forged pistons, diamond racing can hook you up. i paid 524 + shipping for pistons, fatty "power adder" capable rings, and pins... if you want a really solid bottom end, king makes bearings, u can get ARP head studs (i can get you the part numbers) and you can use LS integra aftermarket rods, as long as the pistons you order have a 21mm wrist pin. (up from either 19 or 20mm on a stock a20 piston)

cant help you much on the intake stuff, but i knowyou can get valves custom made, si valves can help. i have ti retainers and high compression sprigns, but im not sure who made them, i bought them off another user.

i have been thinking of getting a spare intake from the junkyard and cutting off everything but the mounting plate (part that bolts to the head)
and fabricating anew intake for this prelude dual carb setup i got from an 87 lude..was actually going to cut both intake manifolds and custom fit them together. money been a little tight at the moment and gremlins have started to plague my 3g soi the hi power apps are on hold.

ps look in the carb section of the tech zone for info on webers there is a write up in there.

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Originally Posted by 89accorder

How does a cam regrind work? do they just weld more metal to the top of the lobe and mill it down?

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A cam regrind is reshaping the existing lobe... welding to the lobe and reshaping it is called "Hard Weld"

Yeah keep your vapor/PCV system intact.

You can disconnect coolant flow through the manifold.
But you then should connect a hose to the two coolant hoses that were disconnected from either side of the intake manifold, That way coolant will still flow through to the other side.

Also you'll need to plug the small coolant port that is located on the water pipe... between the oil filter and the intake manifold.

Usually a cam regrind means grinding the base circle lower, in essence, making the lobe higher now from the base circle of the cam. Just moves the center point of the base circle and the lobe more toward the lobe side. The rest of the came would stay stock. Unfortunately, by doing this, you change the pushrod length needed (well, in the type of engines Im used to anyways, not OHC). Depending on how far you grind, you might end up even needing new rockers to keep the tappet end centered over the valve tip so you dont get side loading on the guide.

Its better to start with a blank cam and do your custom grind with the base circle near stock so you can retain stock type valvetrain components and retain proper valvetrain geometry....... :)

don't stroke the A20, it's not worth it. Its a long stroke motor anyways. Bore it out .060

and there is debate on how much you can safely bore an a20 anyway...

i went with .050 but i havent got my motor finished to verify if this is safe or not. i WAS going to go with .080 :) 85mm pistons hehe

OOoh, feel the power of tha A21a1 lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cant Stop

i have been thinking of getting a spare intake from the junkyard and cutting off everything but the mounting plate (part that bolts to the head)
and fabricating anew intake for this prelude dual carb setup i got from an 87 lude..was actually going to cut both intake manifolds and custom fit them together. money been a little tight at the moment and gremlins have started to plague my 3g soi the hi power apps are on hold.

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Why not just get the dual carb head? And not custom build anything? In fact, I have one of these heads, and the intake. I'd be happy to sell them to you. :)