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Ok, so i started pounding my broken wheel stud out, well the knuckles in the way, i tried popping the upper balljoint loose, didnt help, tried popping the lower loose, didnt help. How the hell do i get this stud out? Does my hub slide out at all? Now i cant even get the rotor back on to get it out, so my next option is to cut the old stud out, cut a notch in my knuckle, and try to get the new stud in... HELP i need ideas! my car is sitting in the street in front of my house right now.
i think you can rotate the disk to a position where the knuckle won't interfere. I've never taken it out but I remember it just fell out once while I was working on the suspension so you shouldn't have to cut anything...
Anyone else???
ive tried rotating it around and everything, no luck :(
bump, i need my car for work in 2 hours... ive been doing this for the last hour and still nothing... why does everything have to fucking backfire.
Bad news. I have no idea how to get the hub off, though I did use a 350lb impact wrench to get the nut loose! Never did get the hub off though. I ended up grinding off the rear of the stud with a metal disk on a skillsaw, lol. To get one back in, I ground off about a 1/3 of the mushroom on the back and it slide right in. Taking the hub off is a better solution, but I never did find out how to get it off. If you do, let me know!
take it to a tire shop, they can do it for around 20-30 bucks, my bro broke a stud off on his car, they replaced it in about 2 hrs
The hub nut needs to be removed and then the hub will slide out. You only need to move it out a little to get the stud out. Aside from modifying the stud, this is the only method of removing and installing the front studs.
i removed the hub nut... unless by hub nut you mean something else other then axle/hub nut?
i was pulling on it with one foot on each side of the wheel well and it would NOT slide out at all... tried prying it off a tad with a pry bar and still nothing... so blah
The bearing on our cars is pressed in and must be taken out to replace the wheel stud. If you remove the knuckle from the car you can have the bearing pressed out, the stud replaced and the bearing pressed back in at a brake/suspension shop.
well i have NO money at all, and im trying to save for a down payment on a 94-96 Integra soooo.... fuck 4 lugs i guess
nah man I know my studs fell out and I didn't replace the wheel bearings. I did that once, what a pain in the ass
Maybe you have to take the brakes off??
rotor was off, caliper was off, tried popping the upper ball joint, but how the hell would that help anyway? The whole knuckle would still move with it. Same with the lower ball joint
im probably going to have a press pull it apart, and replace all studs on both frotn wheels, along with wheel bearings... unless i have enough money for a down payment on an integra first.
you have to take the bearing out trust me the hub is pressed into the bearings. if you want to pull that stud back into place put a couple of washers over it and tighten a lug nut on it it will pull back up into place.
the stud in it now is completely shot...
i have a tool that will pull it through, thats not a problem
im thinking about replacing all studs just in case, while i have my knuckles at the press being pressed apart for new bearings, and such. We will see though.
You'd be a fool NOT to replace all 4. Trust me, lightning can strike twice.Quote:
Originally Posted by halxi
get some arp's. they're like 17 bucks.
thats what i was about to say. summit and jegs both carry them i can't remember the specifics on our studs,but they are standard metric wheel studs nothing special,my suggestiion would be to order them slighly longer,that might give you the option of different wheeels in the future. for a note the rear ones can be replaced seperate,that might be what everyone thought,you just pull the nut off the center and pull the rear hub off,you don't even need to touch the brakes other then taking the drum off.
I think there is a "cut-out" on the knuckle that will allow the stud to come out. That's why POS carb's studs fell out. It's been a while since I've had it apart that far. But look for a clearenced section.
As for replacing all the studs, as long as the threads are good(nut and stud), just coat the studs with anti-seize compound and make sure you torque them to 80flbs.
there is no cut out,I have a set of knuckles and hubs ready for new wheel bearings and with them pressed together,there is absoulty no way. for what a set of good wheel studs cost compared to the cost of the bearings and seals, replace them,it's not about the threads,it's about the metal fatique and thousands of miles on them. not replacing them while they apart is foolish.
I must be thinking of another car then, oh well.
As far as replacing all the studs, you may have point if the car was to be driven hard(raced or track days), but I have never seen a stud break just because it's old. Normal driving just dosen't put that kind of load on them. All the broken studs I've seen were caused by a stuck lug nut and some nut breaking the stud because of it. I know. I've done it a few times myself. I have a 1/2" drive air gun that will break studs if I turn it up full blast!
drive a three g hard? now who would do that?:rolleyes: if a car has been driven in areas of salt use on the roads they can develop fatigue cracks in the studs. just another reason it's cheap insurance.
Ah, salt. The spice of gods.
We don't see that stuff here in sunny California.
another reason to use the good aftermarket studs,they are harder to break off.
yay... now im out 1wheel too
for whatever reason the lugs arent staying tight on the left front wheel, thus creating problems. They keep vibrating loose, then the wheel gets loose, channels out, and creats MORE problems.
So now i need to be a new wheel, along with new bearings, studs, and balljoints... and now possibly both axles... fuckin great.
i hate front ends.... period.
