Starting problem. Need help ASAP!

Hey guys. I sold my car last night on ebay, and this morning, I was having starting problems. The car would start, but, when I put the key back in the 'on' position from the 'start' position, the car would stall. It did this at least 5 times before it stayed running, and now it will start, and when the key is put to the 'on' position, it will seem like its going to stall, but, it goes right back up. I put some dry gas into it, but, I have a feeling it is electrical. Is there some kind of resistor that may have gone bad? I need to replace this tomorrow, because that is when I am delivering the car. Thanks.

-Brett

Sounds like a bad ignition switch to me. You should be able to pick one up at your local dealer for $57.48, with the part #35130-SE0-900. Of course, I could be rwrong, but that sounds like the problem.

Would that be hard to replace? And could it be anything else? If so, what? Thanks.

-Brett

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Originally Posted by AccordDX86

Hey guys. I sold my car last night on ebay, and this morning, I was having starting problems. The car would start, but, when I put the key back in the 'on' position from the 'start' position, the car would stall. It did this at least 5 times before it stayed running, and now it will start, and when the key is put to the 'on' position, it will seem like its going to stall, but, it goes right back up. I put some dry gas into it, but, I have a feeling it is electrical. Is there some kind of resistor that may have gone bad? I need to replace this tomorrow, because that is when I am delivering the car. Thanks.
-Brett

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How old are your fuel filters? I once had similar problem which was corrected by replacing the fuel filters.

Could be the fuel mix if its not the actual ignition switch. If it sputters its most likely not the switch. If there were a short in the switch it would just cut fuel and injector relays instantly like turning the key to the off position. Replacing the switch would involve a steering wheel puller and a snap ring plier.

to figure out if its your ignition:

get under ur dash till u can find the ignition cables, run along the 2 black and white wires untill the plug, put the key into the on position and then get a wire and put it in the plug with the black wire w/ white stripe and white wire w/ black stripe (starter wires) and if it starts of course pull out the wires and if the problem stops it would be your ignition switch which would be difficult to replace without the right tools

i could be wrong, but hope it helps

If there is a short in your switch, jumping any wires in the ignition control circut will not diagnose anything without removing the switch from the circut. If the problem is in the switch itself you will have to compleate the ground in the control circut so that it is as if the swtich is in the ON position, and jump the starter Batt terminal to "S" signal on the starter itself. If it stays running, its your switch. :)

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Originally Posted by 87AccordsterLx

Could be the fuel mix if its not the actual ignition switch. If it sputters its most likely not the switch. If there were a short in the switch it would just cut fuel and injector relays instantly like turning the key to the off position. Replacing the switch would involve a steering wheel puller and a snap ring plier.

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No, actually, it doesn't. Just remove the steering column covers and unscrew the switch from the back of the lock mechanism. The hairy part might be if you have an alarm with starter kill that was implemented in the switch wiring. But if that's the case, you need to bitch at whomever installed the alarm. It's reeeeally easy, and does NOT involve removal of the steering wheel. We charge an hour labor for most of them, but an expereinced tech can do one in half the time.

Damn I havent replaced one on a 3g but I have on many domestics and 9 times out of 10 you need a puller especially to put the bitch back on. That damn spring in there is no joke... Are you saying the accord is different?

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Originally Posted by 87AccordsterLx

Could be the fuel mix if its not the actual ignition switch. If it sputters its most likely not the switch. If there were a short in the switch it would just cut fuel and injector relays instantly like turning the key to the off position. Replacing the switch would involve a steering wheel puller and a snap ring plier.

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All you need to remove the switch is a phillips screwdriver, it's the lock that you need to drill, neither require removal of the steering wheel..

I think you need to do some more trouble shooting to determine what the problem is...

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Originally Posted by 87AccordsterLx

If there is a short in your switch, jumping any wires in the ignition control circut will not diagnose anything without removing the switch from the circut. If the problem is in the switch itself you will have to compleate the ground in the control circut so that it is as if the swtich is in the ON position, and jump the starter Batt terminal to "S" signal on the starter itself. If it stays running, its your switch. :)

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That's really doing the same thing that overdosed said to do but at a different location...would determine if there's a bad spot in the switch...

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Originally Posted by 87AccordsterLx

Damn I havent replaced one on a 3g but I have on many domestics and 9 times out of 10 you need a puller especially to put the bitch back on. That damn spring in there is no joke... Are you saying the accord is different?

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Very!! Domestics(chevys) you have to pull the steering wheel to remove the screw that holds the lock, but the switch is actuated by a long rod and the switch is under the dash so you don't have to remove the steering wheel to replace a chevy switch either, just the lock. not familiar with fords...

What he was saying is to use the switch to compleate the circut. You can't do that being that you are trying to diagnose the switch itself. Unless im misunderstanding his post. I know a good deal about starting/charging/and electrical circuts. That was one of our first sections when I started Engine Management Systems at Wyotech. We just finished up OBDI/OBDII. That was not a fun lecture... lol. Better then DIS though I must say.

Yo Accord........if car starts and dies as soon as you let go of the key,, hold the key slightly off the start position and if car stays running it is definately the electrical part of the ignition switch.. .........You dont need to drill anything ,,i think u can still get only the electrical part ,,,,,remove both covers of the steering wheel, if you look on the back side where the wirings go into swtich there are 2 little screws phillip screws or u can use a 6mm short socket or 6 mm wrench .. remove it from the mechanical part of the switch, follow the wiring , disconnect switch from the plugs ,, reinstall,, easy job ..

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Originally Posted by Honda-Master

Yo Accord........if car starts and dies as soon as you let go of the key,, hold the key slightly off the start position and if car stays running it is definately the electrical part of the ignition switch.. .........You dont need to drill anything ,,i think u can still get only the electrical part ,,,,,remove both covers of the steering wheel, if you look on the back side where the wirings go into swtich there are 2 little screws phillip screws or u can use a 6mm short socket or 6 mm wrench .. remove it from the mechanical part of the switch, follow the wiring , disconnect switch from the plugs ,, reinstall,, easy job ..

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Yep, that's what I said...(O.K. so I used different words...:) )

It was the fuel. It must have had some water in the system, because the dry gas cleared it right up. I got rid of it last night, and I have to say, watching it drive away made me sad. haha. Thanks for all your help guys.

-Brett

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Originally Posted by 87AccordsterLx

What he was saying is to use the switch to compleate the circut. You can't do that being that you are trying to diagnose the switch itself. Unless im misunderstanding his post. I know a good deal about starting/charging/and electrical circuts. That was one of our first sections when I started Engine Management Systems at Wyotech. We just finished up OBDI/OBDII. That was not a fun lecture... lol. Better then DIS though I must say.

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Well, one of us sure misunderstood his post....

What I understood was to turn key to 'RUN' not 'START', stick both ends of a wire into the plug that connects the switch to the harness to jump(hotwire) the starter to see if it will start and run(that's why he said to pull the wire as soon as it starts)

I don't know what you thought he was saying, but from what you posted I don't think it's what I thought....

Funny how some things are so easy to explain in words, and some things are just a huge pita without being there and pointing:rofl:

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Originally Posted by AccordDX86

It was the fuel. It must have had some water in the system, because the dry gas cleared it right up. I got rid of it last night, and I have to say, watching it drive away made me sad. haha. Thanks for all your help guys.
-Brett

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If it was bad gas, why didn't it run good for a second or two on either?:dunno:

Really beats me. But, I was a bit worried, because the car was sold, so I brought it to a mechanic, who I trust. He told me that a bunch of cars were having that same problem because the night before it got down to -6. He gave me a bottle of dry gas, and said it would probably clear it up, and it seemed to.

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Originally Posted by 87AccordsterLx

Could be the fuel mix if its not the actual ignition switch. If it sputters its most likely not the switch. If there were a short in the switch it would just cut fuel and injector relays instantly like turning the key to the off position.

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Ya I was leaning towards that more then the switch, it just felt like a fuel mix problem. Glad you got it taken care of. It is hard to see them go. I miss my Accord dearly and it was very hard for me to sell it... :sadwave: