Gas saving items. Do they really work? Find out inside.

Hi everybody,
I figured I would make this thread since some of us concern about fuel economy, since the gas prices are keep going up. It is $1.75 per gallon as of last night in Frederick MD.
The reason i am doing this because i am about to do a tune up on my GF 2001 Civic LX. I am planning on changing stock very restricted air filter with K&N filter. Also I am planning on changing her spark plugs, but I can decide which ones i want.
Since I work at Advance Auto parts, i can get Bosch, ACDelco, NGK, and E3 plugs. MY choices are NGK iridium, NGK V power or E3 plugs.
I never heard of E 3 plugs so i decided to read up on them and see what other people say about them.
Here is the link to their website: http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/aboutus.asp
Unfortunatly i found only one review of how effective E3 spark plug can be.
http://www.gassavers.org/article/spa...ison_test.html
The website itself is very interesting. They have links to different articles about fuel saving items. Like this article for example: http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...tml?page=1&c=y

So, Did any of you every heard or used E3 spark plugs?
Share the small tips on how to improve the gas mileage in 3 geez or honda cars.

My 86 accord LXI gets 38-40 mpg on highway. Some say it is impossible but I can assure you it is true. Here is what i did:
1. Headers with no cat and dynomax super turbo muffler.
2. Stock airbox with K&N filter. I had to cut a few restiction out of the box to allow for better flow.
3. 5 speed LX tranny. It has lower gear ratio. It is slower of the line but i get great gas mileage.
4. I change the oil every 3K miles.
5. Change the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor ones a year.
6. Accel ignition coil.
7. Tire pressure is set at 32psi all the way around.
Everything else is stock.

So, share your tips.

ive gone 451 miles on 13.5 gal in my 95 LX 5 sp with shit filled up to the windows in the back seat. I run about 40psi in my tires and somtimes use cruise control to maintain my speed. Also i avoid using A/C it seems to kill gas mileage unless i have to use it. Keeping the car aligned helps too, less rolling resistance when everything is straight. Oh yeah, i notice better fuel milage by running aluminum wheels instead of steelies, must be the unsprung weight reduction...

THose E3 and how they try to remove the (SHROUD) overhanging of the electrode over the center electrode to keep it from blocking the flame is the same thing the guys that side-gap their plugs talk about. SIDE GAP I think just looking at the E3 plug that I don't like it's design... the gap doesn't seem to be adjustable but maybe I need to read on, if it's not adjustable it seems like a waste cause you'll need to replace the plug instead of regapping it.


EDIT: Looks like one of the replies to the guy that tested the E3 had suggested side gapping.


I like this line from PM "Inappropriate application of otherwise proven technology"
Some of the ideas behind the tornado and lots of other devices are based on ideas that are only good when applied properly... simply recreating the effects of something proven to be benificial outside it's application will not give you benificial results.


Here are my suggestions:

Wrap your exhaust pipe with exhaust wrap in two areas, make sure you overlap it how it instructs you to...
The first section is the rear segment that runs under the gas tank wrap that up good... also sand and coat your muffler with ceramic paint and probably some of the pipe too, then you can wrap over the painted area on the pipe to close up any gaps. The only thing is a safety concern with material like that under the tank... if it catches fire from being soaked in any kind of volatile fluids... which really it shouldn't as long as you're careful. The second section to wrap is the pipe from the downpipe all the way to the steering rack. Basicly your secondary pipe if you are EFI 88-89 or have a header. and the pipe after the 4-1 cast manifold on the carb model.

http://www.jscspeed.com/index.html?/univ/thermotec.htm
http://www.caraddons.com/Catalog/sub...xhaustwrap.htm
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&autoview=sku

So you're doing three things
1) Reducing heat to the gas tank, thus reducing how much you heat the fuel and turn it to vapors.
2) Reducing the overheating of the oil in the pan, which should be helpful for the oil in retaining it's lube properties.
3) Keeping the heat in the exhaust which will make your motor more efficient overall.

PS: You've cause the google ads (upper right hand corner) to put up the tornado fuel saver... as the current link.

Keep your rpm's below 3000 rpm.

Proper maintenance, anything that goes wrong, replace it immediatly.

Keep track of your mileage to make sure you don't have any unusual fuel consumption.

and how the hell do you pull off 38-40 mpg in your accord?!?!?
The best i ever did with my accord was 30, and usually i got around 26. it's rated at 25mpg city, and 30mpg hwy from the factory sticker when it was new.... i don't see how you would get 10 more mpg from general maintenance... something isn't adding up here.

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Originally Posted by Deadhead

and how the hell do you pull off 38-40 mpg in your accord?!?!?

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Drive real slow untill the car behind you gives you a push. :)

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Originally Posted by A20A1

Drive real slow untill the car behind you gives you a push. :)

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Or drive so close to the car in front of you that you don't have to worry about drag.

I thought that only works if you have a fast car :)

Oh and by the way, I added my lip to my corolla and I think it has helped with milage... now if only I could inflate my tires with nitrogen? then I'd be set... my tires seem to lose pressure rather quickly on all 4. not sure why that is... maybe someone installed them wrong.

hahaha.... driving by feel... ok, i get it now.... if only that was legal :D

I was in Frederick today and saw gas at $2.65, not $1.75. I wish I would have gotten gas for the Explorer there. I paid $2.49 at home before I left last night.

LOL, yeah sorry about that. I didn't realize what i typed. It is $2.75

water injection.

the government was looking into WI for a while on WWII fighter planes (along with nitrous). they saw a SIGNIFICANT increase in economy when injecting water. i want to say something like 40% when injecting about 50% water. the fuel savings is a nice addition to the power increase you get with WI.

also, if i'm not mistaken, the EPA rates economy on a "green" engine, not one that's been broken in. this really does make a difference. either way, the EPA rating is at most a somewhat educated guess as to what you'll see in reality.

my father's lawn mower is using E3 plugs now. he seems to like them a lot. i noticed better idle with them from the older standard plugs. for the price difference, it may very well be worth it.

also, instead of a CAI, run a short ram and pull heated engine bay air. less oxygen means less fuel injected with the air charge, up to the point where you're predetonating. this is the purpose of EGR and our ultra fun carb heaters.

Ways to save gas:
Put the car in neutral when going down a hill.
"Draft" behind trucks.
Hire illegal immigrants to push you around when you're doing city speeds.
Reduce weight (especially unsprung weight.) A lot of an engine's fuel economy depends on how much weight it's pulling around.
In the same vein, keep your windows, shut, this creates more drag on your engine than running your AC. Most cars are wind-tunnel tested, especially these days, but they are tested with their windows shut, not open.
Just drive slowly, I know that's hrd for most of us, but as speed increases, wind resistance increases squared. (Speed goes up 5, wind resistance goes up by 25.)
I'll post more as I think of them.

Im not really sure if open windows kill mileage more than ac, i think it depends on the car etc. Reducing weight helps alot, especially unsprung weight (wheels/tires etc etc) Drafting 18 wheelers works EXCELLENT, if you get VERY close its almost like a vaccuum in the wake of that truck

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Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter

Im not really sure if open windows kill mileage more than ac, i think it depends on the car etc. Reducing weight helps alot, especially unsprung weight (wheels/tires etc etc) Drafting 18 wheelers works EXCELLENT, if you get VERY close its almost like a vaccuum in the wake of that truck

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It may not for our cars (what with them being from the 80s) and certain cars (like the Scion xB) but in most cases, closing your windows and turning on your AC will give you better mileage than rolling your windows down. Scientifically proven, but I can't cite the exact study (I heard it on Cartalk) That's why cars all look streamlined and curvy now. It's not just styling, it's to reduce drag. Personally, I can't do it, since my AC doesn't work, but if I could I would, since I have a hatch, which from our cars probably has the lowest drag.
Drafting is the shit.

http://www.coolhunting.com/images/puma-Bike-Profile.jpg
ok im not funny, i reckon do full maintanence on your car regulary, love it heaps and it will love you back :)

with the bike you switch from miles per gallon to miles per pizza

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Originally Posted by Vanilla Sky

also, if i'm not mistaken, the EPA rates economy on a "green" engine, not one that's been broken in. this really does make a difference. either way, the EPA rating is at most a somewhat educated guess as to what you'll see in reality.

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not only is it a green engine, the old testing (because they're supposed to be using a new one for either 2007 or 2008 vehicles) also is very unrealistic of the typical driver. i remember hearing about people with priuses complaining about not getting even close to the epa listing. then someone realized that an epa test lasts about 40 minutes, speeds never pass 60 mph, it's done in a climate-controlled 70* room, avg. speed is about 48 mph, no hard acceleration, etc. basically, they drive like a granny in the test while i dare say most of us do not.

yeah, heaven forbid you have to pass or accelerate.

i imagine seeing a lot of vehicles having ratings of 5 and 6 MPG when they take into consideration things like engine wear (or lack thereof), passing, doing the speed limit, moving the vehicle from a stop. you know, the important things.

Yaba Daba Dooo!

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Originally Posted by speedpenguin

Put the car in neutral when going down a hill.

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wouldnt that put more wear on your brake pads which would mean you would have to replace them more often? which it will prolly be cheaper just wasting gas than replacing your pads alot more often? i dunno, what would i know lol, im still a noob, just my 2 cents

brake pads cost me $13 for the front. if it saves me 5 gallons of gas in the 3 years it takes to wear my pads down, i'm up for it.

i think we had a similar discussion a few weeks ago, but that may have been on another forum.

I just saw this on a local car website. They were talking about adding acetone into your gas. Like 2-3 oz. per every tank, saying that is help burn the unburnt fuel. What do you guys think.

works, yeah, but say bye to your aluminum parts, including your head and intake manifold.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Overdosed A18A

wouldnt that put more wear on your brake pads which would mean you would have to replace them more often? which it will prolly be cheaper just wasting gas than replacing your pads alot more often? i dunno, what would i know lol, im still a noob, just my 2 cents

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How does putting your car in neutral wear brake pads? :wtf:

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Originally Posted by MattsAccord

I just saw this on a local car website. They were talking about adding acetone into your gas. Like 2-3 oz. per every tank, saying that is help burn the unburnt fuel. What do you guys think.

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Acetone, Xylol, Toulene... whatever. It's all basically the same thing as octane booster/fuel cleaner. All are solvents, so yeah, they can destroy seals...but so is gasoline. Toulene and Xylol are some of the main ingredients of gasoline, so it really isn't a big deal. As for only 2-3 ounces... well... honestly, that's not going to make much of a difference at all. When I run Xylol in my tank, I use about 32-64 ounces per tank. It increases my octane, and my computer will advance the timing a bit to get a bit more power. This is a high compression, high output engine though. Not a 3g.