has anyone gotten the Gude headwork done? if so was it worth the $500.
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has anyone gotten the Gude headwork done? if so was it worth the $500.
The Gude package I have for sale now has $900 worth of machine work.
So it can get expensive.
sorry for the nOOb question but wut is gude package? is it like headwork.Quote:
Originally Posted by 3gn86lxi
Gude Performance is a company that does alot of porting type work. Heads, throttle bodies, intake mannifolds, ect.Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda88dx
well those of you who had gotten it done, is it good horsepower? they say it's the most horsepower for the money.
nope that is NOZ... one of my buddies had 87hp on his 1.5 94 civic and spent like 650 for a noz set up and now he makes 130 with just basic upgrades and a 35hp jet...his engine has like 119k so he does not want to race it alotQuote:
Originally Posted by sinisterfuzzy
if I remember correctly, Long time ago one of the members got Gude package (ported head, ported TB, camshaft). Gude claims that it will inclease power by 40hp.Quote:
Originally Posted by sinisterfuzzy
The guy did the dyno before and after and he saw only half the power they were claiming.
20 hp is not bad at all but 500+ buck is not worth it. i want to get one of thoes junk yard engine so i can put the head in my car and take my head and polish and port it...my uncle works at mazda so i have easy access to a shop...im not sure if i can do it there since they just raplace parts insted of fixing themQuote:
Originally Posted by shepherd79
i've been wondering that this whole time also. but i was planning on getting the complete head, cam installed, new valves and crap. dunno if thats what you were thinking also. i had seen someone do it and get a lot of power as they described. that was a long while back when i first came to this site. but really i do want to know if its worth all the money to send it off to them and if i'd be satisfied with that type of work done. i was planning on doing a dual weber carb set up with a header and maybe no cat or just a new one since i would be spending money like that.
I think it's worth it. I'm just too lazy to actually put mine on, so you know. I need more for my motorcycle right now.:)
wait, so thats all thats keeping you from changing the head off? so how much is the head your selling? link if you have it somewhere.
Thats the only part I don't have is the head. If all my stuff doesn't sell the I'll have to install it. I do have a Delta cam though, so I know with the other stuff on my motor, I'd be able to hold my own with some stock turbo cars.Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
wait, so you dont have the head or just not on. anyway, i was thinking of gude or just get mine done by a place here in town. it'd be port matched and all. but i dont know if they would do new valves. if you do have the head in your possession and need to sell it, name your price i'd be interested sometime the in the upcomming months for sure.
Nope, I don't have the head. Just the throttle body and intake mannifold.
Their 40hp is after tuning. They had a b20a like the b20as we use that made 218hp 170 tq with tuning (to the flywheel).
You won't see gains anywhere akin to that without some dyno time and someone working the hondata. Or some other tuning device (tuning meaning fuel. DOHC motors like the b20a, you can properly move the cam gears to tune as well, and squeeze out some more hp).
i'd do it with a DOHC motor, but not the a20. Save your money to go turbo.
I promise, no matter how long you have to save up your money, it'll be worth it.
Nothing wrong with A20 heads just as much potential as B20A yeah maybe overall you'll be down a little bit of Bhp but considering i get 190bhp from A18 and then 200bhp from a ET1 without toomuch effort A20 with the right size valves and some quality headwork would give you over 200bhp without toomuch an issue, just down to the tuning and mathcing of the right components and finding someone who knows what thier doing of with headwork, fortunately i have the skill to do my own and all it costs me is time and a lot of dremel bits but for anyone wanting to hit 200bhp would require a lot of money and time to achieve where as a turbo would require as much money but less time as you wouldn't need the same levels of perfection as with an N/A head unless you wanted a turbo motor that puts down 300bhp+ then you would need to be a perfectionists again.
the right size valves and quality headwork? That's all?Quote:
Originally Posted by rjudgey
maybe with head work along with a new mainfold and dual carbs would get some power increase off the tuned head, thats what i'm planning. i think its agreed by most that the A20 intake maifolds are very restrictive, carbed or fi. i need to get some money together to make some progress on my engine.
Well yeah thats a given, If you did all that on a stock setup you'd maybe get a 10-15bhp increase but worse you'll run too lean and melt some pistons later.
But with a bigger TB, nice inlet manifold all properly matched and flowed with good header adn system to complete you get huge gains from headwork because that is where the bottleneck is, if you ahve everything else in place then do the head work you get massive gains, and the bigger the valves you can squeeze in the the better and also changing camshafts too helps on top, then after that it's a case of upping CR ratio to amke even more out of it, the harder you squash a that extra air and fuel you got coming in the more explosive it will become resulting in even more power for you.
I realise you are a fan of the bigger valves, but as i mentioned before, is shrouding on the intake side an issue? I wonder if notching the top of the cylinder and relieving around the valves would help at all, or even boring the cylinder? How do you go about installing bigger valves, grind out the seat, or replace it with a different one? And what sizes seem to work the best. I also understood that the A20A3/BT1 EFI manifolds were decent, if not good.
actually i thought that was what a lot of guys on here that modified the head did was put a larger valve like the size of the exhaust valve for the 2 intake valve and just machined the seat out to a larger diameter. i really want to get going on my A20, but money is an issue.
Nope not enough to not warrant having bigger valves, i machine the combustion chambers to the same diameter as the bores, so it turns it into a proper hemi chamber, the bonus to that is you can run a little more advance ignition or add more boost, but to be honest if you've got the ariand fuel mixing properly you won't need the extra igntion advance anyways, yes de-shrouding the valves will help but not at the cost of notching cylinders or chambers, just take it out to as far as the wall and smooth over any rough machined edges, also blending the valve seats into the chamber roof helps with air going in and out. With the seats the stock Honda ones are able to except 33mm inlet valve and 37m exhaust valve, no room to go any bigger really thats as big as you can get which is the main reason why this engine will never really make much more than 230-250bhp to hit more than that without forcd induction you would need at least 35mm-38mm inlet valves and two exhuast valves with 30-33mm size like in a Cosworth 4 pot or Lotus 4 pot. B20A has potential as we know with the mugen variant producing good power even with a restrictor plate but thats because it has room for 35mm inlet valves and 30mm exhaust valves with the right parts and some juicy titanium bits you could easily get between 250-270bhp from a B20A.
