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I need to replace my worn front rotors on my '89 Accord. I am looking at the assembly and wondering if I have to remove the spindle nut and wheel bearings. Do the rotors come off without have to remove the front bearings? Any help or advice would be appreciated!
thnx
Remove the caliper and 2 screws and the rotor comes right off.
Thanks! It is much easier than I thought at first.
dont know if you already took the rotors off, but this tool helps a lot when trying to remove the 2 screws that hold the rotor on. its called an impact driver, you hit the back with a hammer and it easily removes stuck screws. its about $25. just thought you might be interested. i'm planning on getting one in a few weeks.
http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/0...=0.5,1.0,0.0,0
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00947641000
There is no bearings when removing the rotor. Use a impact screwdriver to remove screws as mentioned. Spray PB Laster on the screws to help. Have the rotors turned or put new ones on. THEY tend to warp easy. Tighten lug nuts evenly & to 80 ft. lbs.
Take off the master cylinder cap when tightening the wheel caliper with a C-clamp.
hmm. ive never done that when i change my brakes. have i fucked something up?Quote:
Originally Posted by ddude2uc
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkymonkey
no it just makes it ten times easier to push the piston back in. If you rent the tool from Autozone for the piston you can save yourself alot of time.
ooooooh! phew! man i almost had a heart attack there lol...thanks
thats pretty true. i put new rotors, calipers, lines, and pads on about a year ago. they now have a bit of runout in them. i could put some new pads on and turn the rotors but i just havent got around to it. i havent put a bunch of miles on them though.Quote:
THEY tend to warp easy. Tighten lug nuts evenly & to 80 ft. lbs.
when i replaced my rotors recently i found that the two screws were f**up do they sell those at autozone or something ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by hangloose
go to Honda, they always have them in stock. I buy 6 or 7 at a time, because they strip out so easily.
You should be ok, I would remove the master cylinder cap next time. I seen some knuckle head not do that & crack the piston in the brake caliper. Some cars need to have the bleeder valve opened up when pushing back the piston so it don't mess with the ABS & throw a code.Quote:
Originally Posted by mkymonkey
well luckily we dont usually have ABS on our cars in the US. anyway, i'd not open the fluid lines or bleeder screw unless you want to bleed the lines out. its not really needed. it isnt a bad idea though to bleed them. especially when you've pushed the piston back into the bore when replacing pads. there can be nasty crap in there from the piston moving that can eat up the rubber seal. thats what apparently happened to my stock calipers. both boots around the piston were leaking fluid. about the ABS thing, i've never run into a time to open the bleeder when pushing the pistons back, but its best to follow manufacture specifications.
On the 86-89 Accord there isn't (ABS) Anti-lock brake system. I was reffering to some other makes & models of cars. With opening up the bleeder screw on cars with ABS, the junk in the lines being pushed back up threw them messes with the ABS. That is something this Master A.S.E. Tech told me I work with.Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaBoy
And yes, you don't open up the bleeder valve on these cars (86-89 Accord) when pushing back the piston in the wheel cylinder.
hmm, well i thought the 3rd gen had an abs system called ALB on some european, japanese and austrailian models. i've seen the emblem on them. but unfortunately not US models.
hey i have another question sorta related. if i buy slotted rotors, lets say powerslots, if the happen to warp will turning them fix that?
it should, but i really havent worked with a slotted rotor or drilled for machining run out on. that'd be something i'm gonna ask my instructor when i go back to school in about 3 weeks. i had actually wondered that myself, but didnt even think about it when i had brakes class. i wanted to get some drilled and slotted rotors some time but i still just have vented replacements. as for what i think, i do think that turning the slotted rotors to corrected warpage will work, depending on how much you need to take off i dont know how that'd affect the slots that are machined on the rotor. but yeah that would make them strait, i just turned mine earlier this week and it took care of the warpage i had which was very little but noticeable at high speeds when applying the brakes.
